I run a single point on mine but it is a bit low tech and not recommended for a GEMS and far too low tech for a Thor like yours. Multipoint uses, as the name suggests, an LPG injector per cylinder and can be batch fired, or sequential. They piggy back onto the petrol system so instead of firing the petrol injectors, the engine ECU fires the LPG injectors (via the LPG ECU). Some earlier systems only picked up the pulses from one cylinder per bank so effectively batch fired the LPG injectors so not true sequential (much like some earlier petrol systems, such as the Lucas 14CUX system on a Range Rover Classic, which has all petrol injectors per bank firing simultaneously). Modern systems are truly sequential so fire the individual injectors just as the petrol system does.

The problem with buying secondhand kit is that you have no idea if it was working properly when removed. The wiring loom will have been chopped about, the injectors may be worn, the reducer diaphragm may be on it's last legs and you won't get everything so you can just whack it in. You'll almost certainly find bits missing or that you can't reuse. Tanks have a certified life of 10 years as already mentioned but the main gas feed from tank to the engine bay will also need new pipe and fittings. Then there will be the little things like the nozzles for the inlet manifold and hose clips that you won't want to reuse even if they come in the box of assorted bits. So really, not worth going for unloess you like to spend a lot of time fiddling.

It is perfectly feasible to install it yourself. Plan out where you are going to fit the bits, pipe runs and the like. The only real mechanical work is drilling and tapping the inlet manifold to fit the nozzles. If you think you are going to have the time, get the kit of bits from Simon (other suppliers are available), if you think you are likely to be up to your neck in nappies in the very near future and won't have the time to do it yourself, drop it off with him and let him do it for you. Agreed, payback time will be a bit longer but you get a really nice, warm, almost conceited, feeling inside whenever you hand over a mere £35 for a tank full of fuel that is going to last you appreciably over 200 miles.

No Tony, it's a C180k Coupe, 2004 model. The spring had lost about 40mm off the end and from the look of it, it had been broken for a long time. The A Class has a really bad reputation, at least in the UK as teh build quality doesn't seem to be up to the expected Merc standard. A friend bought one brand new for his daughter and in the 2 years she had it, for 17 months of that she had a loan car from the dealer as it was back in having just about everything replaced.

8th 9th suits me.

davew wrote:

I would be very interested what you can see with your Spectrum Analyser: I just used a 'scope on the feed for Rcvr. to BECM and could often
see all kinds of RF stuff being picked up by my Gen 1. (and not just those 433 weather-stations and door-bells etc either !)

I've got two that are work issue, the cheap n cheerful disposable one like this http://rfexplorer.com/ and one of these http://www.keysight.com/en/pdx-x201902-pn-N9915A/fieldfox-handheld-microwave-analyzer-9-ghz ........ Should be able to see what is out there then.

One day I'll get around to pulling the cover to see what receiver I have under there. As radio is work, I know where there is anything strong that could cause a problem and there isn't anything in either of those areas. The Wickes car park was virtually empty too and I've been there no end of times and never had a problem before even when the place has been packed. I wasn't in either place for more than a few minutes either.

I'm also thinking an RF problem which is why I'll be taking the small analyser out of the works van and bunging it in the car. I know if you lock on the fob you must unlock on the fob otherwise the EKA is needed but if the RF was there constantly, surely I'd have a problem locking with the fob too. Fob batteries are no more than 6 months old, the LED lights when either button is pressed and once I've re-synced, it works perfectly and has done everywhere else since.

and if I do find a constant signal on 433 from either Wickes or B&Q, I'll be raising a case at work so it can be turned off.......

Called in at Millfield this afternoon and picked up a set of BCPR6ES plugs for you. Seems that it is only the very late cars that have the smaller hole for the plugs. Orangebean found the fatter 21mm hex on the BPR6ES plugs wouldn't fit his car but only on one cylinder for some odd reason. Maybe they changed the casting or machining but the thread is still the same, it's just the hole they live in.

I should be about most of the time over the next couple of days if you are over Yaxley way, otherwise I can always drop them in to you at work during the week.

After almost 7 years of ownership and only having to resort to the EKA code three times, I've had to do it twice today! Seeing as it's a bank holiday weekend and I've got a few things to do around the house in anticipation of an engagement party here for my daughter in a couple of weeks, I went to the local Wickes. Locked the car with the fob as I always do, found they only had half of what I needed, came out and it wouldn't unlock on teh fob. Used the key in the hole and only the drivers door opened, no central locking. Used the Nano to enter the EKA code and set off for B&Q. As I would be passing my approved motor factors, pulled in there, synced the fob in the door lock and locked it with the fob. Bought a set of NGK BCPR6ES plugs to do the swap with Rutland Rover, unlocked car with the fob as normal and carried on to B&Q. Locked with the fob, went in and paid their extortionate price for the couple of things Wickes didn't have, came out and it wouldn't unlock on the fob again. Exactly the same as in Wickes car park. Out with the Nano again and drove home. Synced the fob again and I've since been out again and no problems this time.

I think I'm going to start carrying a spectrum analyser around with me to see if it is an RF problem. But if it is, why could I lock it but not unlock it?

mace wrote:

Gilbert; I take it you left the front cover on the engine then, from what you've said?

I left the front cover on as well as the front pulley. I only took the water pump off as removing the fan and viscous coupling gave me a lot more space at the front when lifting the engine out and I already had a new water pump to go on when the engine went back in.

I'll pick up a set of BCPR6ES then and do a swap with you. Another success for Millfield today. Took the other half's Merc in for MoT expecting it to fail on the clunk from the front end over bumps but at least the test would show me which bit I needed to change. Failed on a knackered bottom ball joint (which is part of the lower suspension arm so a complete new arm required) and a broken rear spring. Decided that I'm not changing just one spring and having a lopsided car and if the ball joint has gone on one side the other side isn't far behind. A pair of springs and both bottom suspension arms from stock and £30 cheaper than if I'd got them from Euro Car Parts (who weren't open today anyway).

Or even cheaper here http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/cylinder-liner-da1185-p-27307.html but would anyone seriously consider fitting liners from Britpart?

It's been doing it for a couple of weeks now. It's getting there, Gordon just needs to sort out the unread posts showing until you hit the mark threads as read button even when you've read them.

They do roughly the same (see http://www.v8developments.co.uk/workshop/reliner/index.shtml). £950 to fit top hats, core plugs and new camshaft bearings. You'd need to supply them with your pistons so the can bore the liners to suit the pistons, whack in a set of rings, big ends and mains and you would save quite a bit (but have to do more of the work yourself).

mace wrote:

Gilbert, whilst I wait for V8 to get back to me, what level did you tear your block down to before taking it in to them? Did you clean it up to save them some time?

All I took off were the heads, engine mounts and water pump and left them to do the rest. I don't remember if I even drained the oil from it to be honest. I gave them a new oil filter to fit and that was about it. It came back in the same state but very clean and shiny.

I wouldn't go for a secondhand one at £1600 when for only slightly more you can get one that has been done and is known good.

I took the heads off mine and took the short engine to V8 Developments. They did everything. Acid dipped and crack tested before they started. New core plugs, crank checked and polished (but would have been ground if it had needed it), new big end and main bearings, top hat liners, new pistons and rings, block line bored and new camshaft bearings fitted, new camshaft and followers, new oil pump with chain and sprockets so really, all that was left of my original engine was the block, crank, rods and flywheel. They built it back up with my flywheel and sump and even changed one of the knock sensors as that had a crack in the casing so probably wasn't working that well. While they were doing the block, I pulled the heads apart and they got new guides, valves and a skim but with hindsight, it probably wouldn't have cost much more to have swapped them for a pair of their recon'ed heads. Put the engine back in the car and fitted the heads with it in place using a set of ARP studs too.

Ray at V8 Dev certainly knows his stuff and does a really good job. If he spots anything that isn't right he will deal with it (like my knock sensor) rather than just leave it as it isn't part of the normal build like some places would.

Vibration through the seat of the pants at around 60 ish is usually down to a rear wheel out of balance. I used to get it on mine between about 62 and 70 so got the wheels balanced. One thing that was noticed was that my offside rear doesn't have a centre cap so there was a build up of corrosion on the face that bolts up to the hub so it wasn't sitting flush. Cleaning that up and getting that wheel balanced again cured it.

Drone on the over-run is a diff, probably the rear. Changing the oil may reduce it but as long as the oil you drain out doesn't come out looking like metalflake paint, it'll carry on for years.

Brakes can be almost completely seized but will still work due to the amount of pressure available from the pump. Sliders do seize too and are another candidate for a good wire brushing and grease.

If it's only been stood for a couple of hours it shouldn't take that long to get up to pressure, but it isn't unusual if it's stood overnight,

I'm surprised Simon hasn't chipped in on this thread. It may well be something he's come across in the past.

But at least he's not telling anyone to read it, just download it......

Never having seen a pen test done before I'm not sure what I'm looking at but 4 definitely looks lower down in the block than the others.