I had a seized electric fan too but when I put a socket on the front bumper bolts and started to try to turn them they moved but with that feeling that it was the bolt about to shear rather than come undone. So I left it in place and managed to get the bottom bolts out with an 8mm combination spanner.
When you changed the O rings you have to be careful that they are seated properly. I found that by nipping the screw up so it was just starting to put some pressure on, wiggling the pipes made them seat properly. If they weren't seated fully, they will have been wiggled around when you've been fitting the hoses at the other end, under the bonnet and the screw is now loose. Unless you've done the Audi core mod, in which case the leak is of your own making......
Weird. No idea what the difference is, if any, but the SMK on the end of the part number is the bit that signifies the colour (as I found out when looking for replacement stick on front and rear Range Rover badges) so they will be the same colour. As they look to be the same size then there isn't really much else that can be different.
Very nicely put and I hope he does read it but you missed one additional known fact. That's how ownership of a Land Rover makes time go much faster so the simple couple of hours job takes two days (as one that I thought I'd get done on Saturday morning while her indoors was working a bit of overtime wasn't finished until Sunday lunchtime). The problem with RR.net is that it contradicts point 3, it has one too many, him. You do appear to have something wrong with your keyboard though, it's mis-spelling words in point 5.......
The later Classics (88-93) had the heater feed through a pair of steel pipes that ran along the top of the RH head and one of those had a vertical 'chimney' in it with a cap on the top so you could bleed the air out and top it up once the system was filled and bled. However, they didn't have the return to the header tank in the heater return like the P38 does, that came off the bottom hose so I suspect that is why it was there. A bleed nipple isn't going to do any harm though and will make bleeding the heater circuit easier.
Comparing the dimensions with those of the Nissens linked to by OB, it looks to be about spot on. All the fixings and hose stubs appear to be in the right place too (for a pre-99 GEMS car anyway).
Ooh, that's pretty. Not as expensive as I would expect either. A lot cheaper than the one some guy in the States was allegedly supplying (if he actually supplied any....).
Like OB, if I needed a radiator, I'd definitely be going for one of those.
I put a Bearmach in mine not long after I got it in 2010, still fine after 100,000+ miles.
If the reducer is hot and the inlet and outlet pipes from the heater matrix are both hot, you've got flow through there. How do you know the blend motors are working? If the matrix is hot and the blend motors were working you'd get hot air. Something is definitely not right here and at the moment I'm struggling to think what.
Marty might be your man on both counts here, he has quite a number of spares from a couple of dead cars so the door check strap roller may well be something he has. The tailgate pushbutton receives an earth from the drivers door, earth there when the drivers door is unlocked and not when it is locked. The earth comes from a microswitch in the drivers door latch so it might be the microswitch or it might be as simple as the pushbutton itself. The spring inside it rusts and bits of rust (and broken spring) clog it up so it doesn't move as far as it should. IF you can get the tailgate open, it is simple to take the carpet cover off the inside of the lower tailgate and take the pushbutton out. If you can't get it open, then it's a bit more difficult as the flap at the bottom gets in the way but it can still be got out with a bit of bending.
Swapping to a different brand ECU will involve a complete new loom and much rewiring whereas the King (or any other AEB ECU) will plug straight into what you already have. If the Hana injectors you've got are the Gold version (which I think they are) they are rated at 1.9 Ohms and the King ECU is specced for 2 or 3 Ohm injectors so I can't see it being a problem. You'll also have the advantage of knowing the AEB software rather than starting yet another learning curve.
mace wrote:
There is some flow through it, but not as much as on Gordon's.
Poke a bit of wire through it. It needs to be completely clear. If the hose isn't good, replace it with a bit of 8mm ID fuel hose for the time being.
Check that the bleed hose is clear and that the hole into the expansion tank is clear too. If there's a blockage there you'll never get all the air out.
Deep 26mm should do the job nicely. As for the air locks, as the block has been completely drained down, it can be a real bitch to bleed all the air out. I take off the top hose and start by filling through the stub on the inlet manifold. Once that is full, fit the top hose and disconnect the bleed hose from the top of the radiator. Fill the expansion tank until coolant flows out of the bleed nipple on the radiator then fit the hose. Top up the expansion tank and give the top hose a squeeze, you should see a jet of water from the bleed hose just inside the expansion tank neck. Then start the final bleeding by squeezing the top hose, put your finger over the hole where the jet of coolant came out and release the hose. Keep doing that until no more air is coming out of the bleed hose or bubbling into the expansion tank from the return hose. If you give the top hose a few more quick squeezes, you'll be able to hear if there is any air still in there. If there is, run the engine for a few minutes to circulate the coolant and then give it another squeeze, plug, release session.
I don't have a problem with either Simon or Marty having their websites on their signatures. Although his username is a bit of a give-away, having a signature that shows he is a full time LPG installer adds credence to Simon's posts and shows he does know what he is taking about. The same goes for Marty, those of us that have been around for a while know that he rebuilds door latches, HEVAC units and can unlock your highly confused BeCM, but anyone new may not know that. So again, a link to his website just adds to the information this forum dishes out.
So I say, put the links back......
Hmm, I've just read through that thread and it seems that although the modulator part number changed from the Thor, all the ones that seemed to have the problem were early cars (95-97). I wonder if they changed the washers from plastic to metal partway through production rather than when the newer version was introduced? An internal change wouldn't have warranted a change of part number if they were externally identical and interchangeable. There seemed to be a lot of failures in Oz and George's washers broke when he took them out but hadn't beforehand so I'm wondering if it's a temperature related thing? I don't have a clicky pedal (a squeaky one sometimes but that is down to it being such a bitch to get any oil on the pivot) and if it was mileage related mine should have gone years ago. Has anyone taken one apart and found broken washers?
Idly looking at things under the bonnet, I noticed that the big hex key plug is right at the front of the modulator which made me think (which is always a bad thing). If the springy thing with the plastic bits that break up lives behind that, couldn't it be done with the unit still in the car? At least it would be bolted to something solid when giving it some grunt rather than having to chase it round the workbench. Also, do the plastic bits only exist on earlier cars or all of them and what is the result of them breaking?
If you can hear bubbles, there's air in there. Air will definitely cause it to pressurise too. There's pressurising and there's getting hard due to thermal expansion, the top hose will get harder, just not rock hard. Make sure you have no hoses higher than the reservoir so any air makes it's way back there.
The messy part of doing the headlining is getting the old orange foam off the shell. I wirebrushed mine out side at the front of the house and we put the lining on in the back garden. You don't want to be sticking the new stuff on anywhere near the orange dust.
It must be a P38 thing, one thing fails and when you put that right you find something else has failed. But you don't know if it's a separate fault or if what you didn't do the first one right and buggered something else up.