The HK badges were only fitted on cars with the high line HK system. There were 3 levels, low line with just woofers and tweeters in the front doors and woofers only in the rear, all driven directly from the stereo so no amps in the doors. The mid line had woofers, midrange and tweeters in the front doors and woofers and midrange in the rear, again driven directly from the stereo. The high line had the HK badges because the speakers are actually HK and not generic LR speakers, as well as everything the mid line had, it also has a sub in the boot and everything is driven by an amp in each door and another in the sub housing.

So if you had the low or mid line system you can simply slot in any aftermarket head unit and the DIN plugs on the loom connect straight to it. It is only the high line system that needs a bit of jiggery pokery.

Doh, £8 for 4 BPR6ES, that's more expensive than the £1.99 each from my local motor factors.

I'm curious but am afraid to ask what that is actually intended for........

I seriously hope it is him. Then he can find out what an arrogant, unwelcoming, unhelpful, condescending,twat he comes across as to sensible, mature, civilised people. I honestly think he tells people to read RAVE or do a search purely to show that he thinks he knows what he's talking about but doesn't really. I notice that he has edited his post where he gave someone completely wrong information. The guy that asked which temperature sensor was the one that the petrol ECU gets it's readings from and he said the green one. I'd be well pissed off if I'd asked a question and based on the answer given by a seemingly knowledgeable admin on the forum I'd gone out and bought the wrong part.

However, at least we've managed to help out a few new members by getting them over here and being able to give them accurate, helpful advice. It seems that most of the threads started recently are of the look at this reasonably nice P38 I've just bought and then completely fucked up by chopping huge lumps of bodywork off.

I managed a weeks ban after he criticised somebody for not putting a correct location in his signature. The poor unsuspecting guy had put his location as Flintshire so I pointed out that it was far more accurate than WA, CO or CT which to me mean Warrington, Colchester and Canterbury. Thyat post was there for all of 2 hours before being deleted and me getting the ban.

Looking at the forum terms of service that Dave posted a page or so ago, I'm considering reporting RRTH to the owners of the site for contravention of the first term........

By the way, the only true black is Rolls Royce Masons Black. The mix recipe is black base and 24 parts black pigment. That's it, nothing else.

Or bad contacts in the plug between the driver pack and valve block.I took a known good, fully working, valve block and compressor off one car and put it on another. It did nothing. Sprayed the multiway plug with contact cleaner, reconnected and it all worked perfectly.

A '96 HK system won't have the DSP amp (thankfully) but will have separate amps in each door. You can fit any after,market head unit (some can even be programmed to allow you to retain the steering wheel controls) but rather than one with line level unbalanced outputs (which will hum), your best bet is to use the speaker outputs and make up and fit some attenuators, see http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/entertainment/headunitadapt.html

Think of this forum as a virtual pub (hence the URL). It's a bunch of like minded people sitting around chatting and helping each other out. Most of the problems and questions you have, and the ones you may well have in the future, are all ones we've all been there and dealt with ourselves. I've clocked up 123,000 miles in my P38 in the 5 or 6 years I've owned it (currently showing 328,900 miles). It was a spares or repair job when I bought it and just about every fault that a P38 can throw at you I've had to deal with at some point. Then I went and bought another so I could start it all over again......

Nah, there's only a couple of us that got lifetime bans and a few more that have been banned for a week at a time. Some on here even post on there at odd times........

As for changing the air springs, I've never felt the need to take the wheels off neither front or back. RAVE also tells you to remove the front wheelarch liner but I've never done that either. Just pull it out far enough so you can see what you are doing and get your hand in there and jam a block of wood in to hold it out.

Glad you got it sorted but it does sound like you need to look into why the EKA couldn't be entered before the next time....... Still can't work out why it disabled itself after being locked and unlocked on the key though.

For RAVE, see the second post down in this thread https://rangerovers.pub/topic/355?page=9. It's an iso image of the full CD version so will need burning to a disc and installing but you can copy the disc contents to your hard drive and install and run directly from there.

To go to low range you select neutral, move the lever across to low range and you'll get a beep, beep, beep and the flashing light with a picture of gears. After a couple of seconds, the beeping should stop and the light goes out. At that point you can put it into gear. If the beeping and flashing light doesn't stop, that means the motor has either jammed or is seized and it is trying to select low range and failing.

The gearbox and transfer case are separate each with their own oil drain plugs and fillers. Both need Dexron 3 though.

He does say he won't send stuff outside the US and there's no warranty either (so you can be fairly sure nothing will work properly).

I've had to resort to the EKA a couple of times when I've parked somewhere, been able to lock on the fob and then not been able to unlock with it so had to use the key and then put the EKA in with the key. But I had the exact same problem as the OP last night on my SE. Having to clear some space in anticipation of an oil tank being delivered this morning, I went outside to move the SE and another car. As the SE gets started so rarely, I always lock it with the key with the bonnet open and then disconnect the battery. Then I can unlock just the drivers door, open the bonnet, reconnect the battery and start it. Never had a problem in the past but last night I reconnected the battery and got Engine Immobilised (as well as all the usual window not set messages) when I tried to start it. Out with the Nano, plug it in, check the owners handbook for the EKA while waiting for the Nano to boot, enter the EKA into Nano, hit the button, start the engine. It really is that simple if you've got a dodgy switch in the latch or a receiver that's being swamped with RF.

Or he's trying to get rid of a load of second hand crap that he's had cluttering the place up for years that nobody will buy because he's asking stupid prices for it.

It may seem expensive but with what it can do, it is invaluable. Even if you don't intend keeping the car, they go for almost full retail price on eBay on the rare occasions someone sells one.

Not necessarily but if the only message you have is Engine Disabled, Press Remote, I doubt it has. The only worry is that the more it is messed with, the more likely it is that it goes into full lockout. My concern is the same as Marty's. Turn up there with the Nanocom only to find that it is something more serious and it needs more specialist kit (which he has but I don't).

No, a standard code reader is no good, not even the stupidly expensive Snap-On ones. You need dedicated LR kit, Nanocom, Lynx, Testbook or a Syncmate. There might be an LR independent nearby who may be able to help (although a lot of them won't come out to you). Or just wait for Marty to re-appear and use it as an opportunity to get some miles on his new engine. I'm closer to you than Marty (not much over an hour away) and would offer to help but I'm supposed to be working at the moment, busy this evening, at work tomorrow and got a replacement central heating oil tank to install on Saturday so Friday evening is going to be taken up removing the fence that is around the old one.

But if you haven't got it sorted by Sunday........

Yes, it's trying to do something but if the reservoir is empty there's no air to send anywhere.

There's still a mystery here. If it was locked and unlocked with the key, it shouldn't have become disabled in the first place. If the door is locking and unlocking the linkage is OK but why is it not flashing the lights on an unlock turn? Marty, is there any possibility that something has broken inside the latch so it is physically unlocking but not operating the switch (although it that was the case I would expect no flashes when turning either way)?

Taking it apart and getting the latch out probably isn't something you'd want to do with it parked outside a shop and even if you take it out and find it's broke, you don't have another to put in it's place. Pushing it a bit might work or the other method I've heard of the AA doing is put put one of those metallised blankets over the back of the car, crawling underneath it and using the fob against the receive aerial etched into the offside rear window.