Someone has probably done a bit of bodgery on the cooling system using a mix of what they had laying around. Your best bet would be to return it to the original GEMS layout and while you are at it you may even find the leak anyway.
Diagnostics not being able to connect is often a sign of corrosion in the wires at the back of the the socket or in the multiway connectors behind the kick panels in the footwells.
I've got a hacked about RR Sport grille on my SE. I'll swap you it for a standard one if you want it as I think it looks bloody awful.......
They aren't old? A Classic is old. The P38 is also the most reliable Range Rover. Classics rust away just about everywhere and the L322 has so many interlinked electronics a fault on one, seemingly unrelated, thing kills everything else so the car can't be driven.
I must admit though, I actually see at least 2 P38s a day when running around between Cambridgeshire and London (and that doesn't count my two and the other 3 that live in the same village as me). but I do clock up about 150 miles a day for work. So they aren't that rare.
Why not just swap the rear diffs? Put the one from the blue one into the black one? At least then you'll have one worker rather than an Enterprise Focus. Last time I had a hire car (when my water pump self destructed), Enterprise gave me a Zafira. Even a doggy P38 would have been better.
Nice one. You probably don't have to deal with rusted bits like we do in the UK, I've always had to get the angle grinder out for the nuts on the drop links.
My original rear diff had about 3mm of in and out play on the input, the best part of a quarter turn slop and a healthy clunk whenever I went from forward to reverse. Did whine a bit like a London bus but it didn't get any worse in about 50,000 miles. I only replaced it because I thought I should.
Rears are a piece of piss. Take off wheel, undo the 6 bolts that hold the hub into the axle, pull it out a couple of inches and let it sit on the wheel you previously took off. No need to even remove the brake caliper or ABS sensor. Do the other side and once both are free, disconnect the prop and hang it out of the way somewhere, undo the ring of bolts that hold the diff to the axle and pull it out.
Oh yes, draining the oil from the axle is a good idea or you end up laying in a big puddle.......
Did the brakes on a '95 Classic (the soft dash one that is a sort of hybrid Classic/P38/Disco) recently that had been completely stripped out to have a new bulkhead welded in. Although a different part number the modulator works in just the same way as the P38 one and the bleeding procedure is identical. We couldn't get anything out of the hydrostatic circuit at all. No amount of pedal pumping did anything and even leaving a bleed nipple out and letting gravity do it didn't work. There seemed to be no flow between master cylinder and calipers. Then we found that as soon as the ignition was turned on so the pump ran, the brakes locked on. Had to open the bleed nipples to release the pressure to move the car. Disconnected the fork from the pedal, gave it a wiggle a few times, tried pulling it out (but it didn't appear to move), reconnected it and all was fine.
You've definitely got a leak or two. When you first start it, the lights show the height it is at (light on steady) and the target height (light flashing). I can leave mine 3 or 4 days at normal height and it is still at normal height when I get into it. If it's parked on the piss so it self levels, it comes up almost immediately.
At Marty's workshop near Marlborough in Wiltshire. To log LPG stations on route, use www.filllpg.co.uk.
Not the 15th/16th, that's British Grand Prix weekend.
Lower one is the gearbox cooler, upper one is the engine oil cooler. Follow the pipes to confirm though just in case........
Cutting the heads off is your best bet. When I fitted mine, the bolt holes didn't line up unless I gave the plates either side a bit of grunt. I figured that fitting the bolts would most likely stress the bottom of the rad and try to pull the bottom plastic off so didn't fit them. With the two lugs at the bottom and the bits it slots into at the top, it's not going anywhere without the bolts.
A leak at the O rings would also explain your difficulty getting all the air out too. As fast as you get it out the top more is getting in at the bottom.
I had a seized electric fan too but when I put a socket on the front bumper bolts and started to try to turn them they moved but with that feeling that it was the bolt about to shear rather than come undone. So I left it in place and managed to get the bottom bolts out with an 8mm combination spanner.
When you changed the O rings you have to be careful that they are seated properly. I found that by nipping the screw up so it was just starting to put some pressure on, wiggling the pipes made them seat properly. If they weren't seated fully, they will have been wiggled around when you've been fitting the hoses at the other end, under the bonnet and the screw is now loose. Unless you've done the Audi core mod, in which case the leak is of your own making......
Weird. No idea what the difference is, if any, but the SMK on the end of the part number is the bit that signifies the colour (as I found out when looking for replacement stick on front and rear Range Rover badges) so they will be the same colour. As they look to be the same size then there isn't really much else that can be different.
Very nicely put and I hope he does read it but you missed one additional known fact. That's how ownership of a Land Rover makes time go much faster so the simple couple of hours job takes two days (as one that I thought I'd get done on Saturday morning while her indoors was working a bit of overtime wasn't finished until Sunday lunchtime). The problem with RR.net is that it contradicts point 3, it has one too many, him. You do appear to have something wrong with your keyboard though, it's mis-spelling words in point 5.......
The later Classics (88-93) had the heater feed through a pair of steel pipes that ran along the top of the RH head and one of those had a vertical 'chimney' in it with a cap on the top so you could bleed the air out and top it up once the system was filled and bled. However, they didn't have the return to the header tank in the heater return like the P38 does, that came off the bottom hose so I suspect that is why it was there. A bleed nipple isn't going to do any harm though and will make bleeding the heater circuit easier.
Comparing the dimensions with those of the Nissens linked to by OB, it looks to be about spot on. All the fixings and hose stubs appear to be in the right place too (for a pre-99 GEMS car anyway).
Ooh, that's pretty. Not as expensive as I would expect either. A lot cheaper than the one some guy in the States was allegedly supplying (if he actually supplied any....).
Like OB, if I needed a radiator, I'd definitely be going for one of those.
I put a Bearmach in mine not long after I got it in 2010, still fine after 100,000+ miles.