You've definitely got something wrong Nick. I've just driven down to Dover, outside temperature reported as 15 degrees and the HEVAC set on 21, Auto. Once the interior was up to temperature the flow and temperature from the face vents dropped to about ambient and the footwell vents dropped to the same.
OK, tea break over, back on yer 'ead. All back in one piece, even with new badges and after having a bit of a rest (other than 480 miles last Sunday with only half the trim back on) it's back to work for the newly resprayed ex-Plod. 1969 Triumph Bonneville and a 1976 Triumph TR6 on an Ifor Williams CT177 tilting trailer that will be in the South of France by breakfast time tomorrow.
How are you getting on with yours Mark?
Although I can't see what (but will admit I've never been inside a heater box) but you've obviously got something wrong. I leave mine on 20 degrees and Auto and it just works. The only slightly odd thing I have on mine is that if both sides are set at 20 degrees, the drivers side cools off sooner than the passenger side, If I leave the passenger side at 20 and put the drivers at 21, the air from the vents is the same temperature from both.
No, you'll need the earlier one, I've just emailed it to you along with the installation manual and software guide.
That's a Zeta N, a lower pressure version of the one OB has. As long as the injector jets are the correct size, then not a problem. It should switch back when the pressure drops so that would point towards a dodgy pressure sensor.
It should come out of the main LPG loom. 4 wires that SHOULD have an 8 way Molex connector with only 4 ways used the same as your Leonardo. No idea why someone would chop the plug off though.
Just been out in mine and probably not a fair test as it's a whole 1 degree outside so I need the heater. However, I know that in warmer weather, once mine has the car interior up to a comfortable temperature, the air from the face vents cools off but I've never bothered to check to see what is coming out of the footwell vents. This evening, it started off blowing lots of hot air out of both face and footwell vents. Once the interior of the car was at a reasonable temperature, the face vent output went down to very little but still lots of nice warm air at the footwell to keep the interior warm and my feet nice and toasty. I would assume once the interior temperature was up then the air to the feet would cool down too (but it's unlikely to do that at the moment).
I don't have rear underseat vents as Mr plod didn't need heat in the back so the output for these vents are blanked off. Didn't realise this at first but it does explain why I wondered what the problem was with getting access to the blend motors and O rings as I don't have the duct that gets in the way.
Original Zavoli Alesei rather than the later Alesei N, Zavoli Zeta S reducer (the higher output one so that's good) and the ridiculously expensive but extremely good, Zavoli badged Matrix XJ544 injectors. A very good system that shouldn't give any trouble and even if it does everything is rebuildable.
While you're in there, sort out the plumbing for the LPG reducer and put it in series with the heater. Apart from the slow warm up and/or feeble output from the heater at idle on a cold day, you'll get rid of two places for air locks to sit (shouldn't the hoses into the heater be straight rather than curved up like that?). Never having pulled a Thor apart, I can't tell you if the studs are original or not but they do look a little long. I can't see land Rover wasting that amount of metal.......
You sure it's leaking from the HG and not the rocker cover? HG doesn't have any appreciable oilways running through it. No doubt someone a little more dexterous will tell you how to get to the ignition coils, probably requires fingers like ET with the grip of Mole grips......
I remember reading somewhere when I first got involved in wasted spark systems that the extra spark isn't so great as it isn't doing anything. On one of the very old Crypton analysers with a CRT, you could see the difference in strength between the spark that was firing and the one that wasn't. I'd suggest leads as well, I've run these http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/ignition-lead-4046-9498-intermotor-bra2001-p-3971.html (but for a Thor you'd need http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/ignition-lead-4046-9802-intermotor-hls103-bra2002-p-3972.html) and the only time I've had a problem has been when I had a hose split and they got doused in coolant. Even after they'd dried out it looked like Blackpool illuminations under the bonnet in the dark.
That's what I was thinking. As far as I can work out, the temperature blend motors adjust the airflow through or around the matrix so that sets the air temperature and the distribution blend motor directs where it comes out. I've always assumed that the air will be the same temperature no matter where it is coming out from. If, as on mine, your feet were getting cold, then that is when the duct joints leak so air escapes onto your feet before it even gets as far as the heater box but not hot air on your feet and not on your face. Sure it isn't your gout playing up?
If you can cope with the curved balls that boats throw at you, anything a P38 tries is child's play.
No, I couldn't find a replacement dayglo orange front grille with two big square blue lights in it to make it look like it did originally so decided to keep it plain old C603 Chawton White.
Yup, probably the worse time of year to try to sell anything like that in the UK so the TR6 is going to France on Friday along with a 1969 Triumph Bonneville that is currently making access to the utility room a bit awkward (although Dina considers it as quite an attractive bit of modern art). The E Type I took down there in August just before the run to Latvia has sold though. It was advertised throughout Europe and we expected it to sell to someone in Monaco, Germany, Switzerland, France or Italy like most of the others. But it's been bought by a man who lives less than 2 miles from me so I've got to bring it back. The original idea was that there probably wasn't enough in the TR6 to make taking it down worthwhile but as I would be going down with an empty trailer on the back, I may as well take it.
The front bumper, along with the wheels and everything else on the car that hasn't been painted (including a lot of the interior), is covered in grey dust from the rubbing down before it was masked and painted. All it needs is the dust washing off and the back bumper blacking too as I never did that before.
Errm, you've either bought a very late 4.0 or 4.6 litre P38 like most of us on here have got or a very early 4.4 litre L322 cuz there's no such thing as a 4.3. What PCV system? There's the odd breather hose but that's about it, I suspect you've been getting replies from Americans on RR.net who take everything to the 'shop' to get it done and then get charged for work that not only hasn't been done but doesn't exist.
Chris is in Harlow and I'm sure he'd be able to do any work you need doing, I suspect he'd be quite interested in seeing a 4.3.too.
Orangebean wrote:
I quite like the snow-camo look. Maybe you should keep it like that?
Not a bad idea actually, I could have asked him to just lacquer it as it was. However, he didn't and I picked it up at 12, fitted the front indicators, rear numberplate and lights and mirrors and drove it home looking like this
Not a bad finish considering it still needs a polish
Spent the day refitting everything and it's all back together except for the big ex-plod mudflaps. I had to cut the heads off the self tappers that held them on so bought some Tec screws with integral washers but the ones I bought are too fat so I'll need to get some the next size down.
Then wash the wheels.......
The roof on mine has always given the truck drivers and bus passengers something to look at. When it was decommissioned and had all the police stuff taken off they filled the 5 or 6 holes in the roof where the radio aerials and light bars had been and then got what appears to be a 4" paintbrush loaded with a random white paint and slopped a dollop of paint over each hole. It's past was there for all to see.
As long as you are reasonably careful and don't drown any ECUs or the fusebox, it should be OK. The electrical bits on the engine are designed so you can take it wading so ought to be pretty waterproof.
I think you've got a cable for the Leonardo on your other one so, if you have, that will work with the Zavoli. Software can be downloaded from http://www.vogelsautogas.nl/documenten/Software/Software%20Zavoli/Zavoli_6.1.1.0_cad.zip assuming it is the Alesi N and not the earlier Alesi. I've got a number of earlier versions if that one is too new.