But that will only kick in every 4 hours or so and if the car is parked on the flat it'll turn off almost immediately. If it's on lumpy ground so it has to try to level (or there's a leak) it'll kill a poorly battery fairly quickly but a decent one won't go flat that quickly.

Are there any other, seemingly unconnected, faults that might cause the BeCM to stay awake? Assuming the gearbox is still in there you can check that the BeCM sleeps by sitting in the car in the dark. With everything switched off, the gear position LED will be glowing dimly next to whatever gear it thinks it is in. After 2 minutes of sitting very still with everything switched off, it should go out. That tells you the BeCM has gone to sleep. If it doesn't, something is keeping it active. Do you have a meter so you can check the actual battery drain?

dazer2000 wrote:

Exactly mate, the 4.6 wins on 4.0 on toque when shes there, I also have the added bonus of a new lower crank seal, new rad,new thermostat and water pump all of which I had to do when I first bought her !!! yes I have spent on this car since september when I bought her, 4 new bags and just about to do all 4 discs and pads of which I have, she is my family car so has to be tip top, I wonder how many people have changed to coils only to find out the reason that they were fitted with air in the first place !

I bought the Classic to tow with but it was a LWB one that had originally been on air but had been converted to springs. Unfortunately the springs used had been for a standard Classic so the rears were too soft for the extra 8" of body on the back. As soon as I hitched a trailer up I was looking at the sky. Fitted stiffer springs on the back which made a bit of a difference but not much and made the ride harsh when not towing. I had heard all the horror stories about the P38 but bought it purely for the EAS. Because of the mis-information from places like RPi about how weak the 4.6 was and how it would slip a liner if the wind happened to be blowing in the wrong direction, I deliberately went for the 4.0 litre. Only to later find that it is the longer stroke, rather than bigger bore, that gives the extra capacity and most of the commonly found information is complete bollocks from people trying to sell you a new engine. If the revs drop below 2,000 rpm when slogging up a hill with a lot of weight behind it, then it does start to lose interest, so I just drop it down from D to 3 to get the revs back up and it will accelerate back up.

The ARP studs I approve of but the plugs look well knackered.......

Doh, copy and paste fail....... Now edited so the correct link is in there.

It belongs to Robert who is a bit bonkers. He started off by sticking a turbo and single point LPG system on an old Astra and managed some stupid amount of power out of it and then got stuck in to building Medusa. An old taxi chassis with a pair of 4.0 litre Jaguar AJ16 engines mounted one in front of the other, also with no petrol system and running solely LPG. A thread of his build is here http://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/garage/medusa-206057 (but it's a long read at currently up to 129 pages) but there's also a couple of videos of it MEDUSA FIRST START UP..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=euFDZmGUUCQ and MEDUSA FIRST REV UP .....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQO53pQUIXI

That's the reason I bought a P38 in the first place (after a Classic), to tow a trailer between Peterborough and Nice in the south of France (see post 272 in this thread https://rangerovers.pub/topic/233-autobiography-reasons-to-buy-one?page=14). They just do it like no other car can and running on LPG makes them cheap to run too. What else can sit at 70 mph with over 2.5 tonnes hanging off the back in perfect comfort? With the cost of LPG being that much cheaper still in Europe, I drove mine the 1520 miles to Latvia on under £200 in fuel.

Is it facelifted? The later ones have the front bumper that steps up at the ends below the headlights while the early ones have a flat top like Matt's. It just looks very clean and shiny to me.

Digress away. The Merc 1800 and 2 litre petrol, 4 pots suffer from what is referred to as the £8 pipe. It's a breather between the inlet manifold and crankcase which, being made of rubber, turns into a squidgy, sticky lump of gloop with holes in it. Upshot of that is that the idle goes lumpy and the MIL is permanently on with lean mixture errors. Problem is that the inlet manifold is underneath the throttle body and MAF which is bolted to the intake of the supercharger. At least the replacement, which costs just £8, is made of silicon so you only need to do the job once but it's a 5 hour job to change it so you don't want to have to do it that often. The only other job I've had to do on it was fit a new sidelight bulb, even that needed a degree in gynaecology......

Ahh, so it's just the Germans then. That would explain why all the Rohde and Schwarz equipment we have at work has black and white mains leads. Doesn't explain why Dina's C180K Coupe has brown live wires though.....

According to the diagram above, the white/brown wires (WN) go back to the radio head unit along with the two white/blue and white/red so they are probably the matching grounds for the two audio channels (although even if it is a balanced system I would have expected them to be twisted with the matching audio wire). So that has identified what they all do now we need to identify why the fuse blows when you plug the CD unit in. Assuming the socket on the unit matches the plug, connecting the red/green should power it up and not blow the fuse. If you put a meter set on the Ohms range, what do you measure between the pin that the red/green connects to and the chassis? What do you measure between the red/green pin and either of the pins the brown wires go to? I suppose it's always possible that the unit needs to be insulated from ground?

I'm confused as to why the browns are ground but I suppose there must have been a change. Under the old Lucas standard colour code, brown was always unswitched live, on the P38, all main live feeds are brown (or brown with a tracer colour) and my partners 2004 Merc also uses brown for live. Maybe the EU have produced a standard and dictated that ground should be brown these days (although with mains wiring, brown is live, even curiouser still)........

Weird? Looking at the plugs you've got and the diagram, all the wires seem to be there just not quite how I would expect them to be. Brown wires are power, not ground, ground wires are black on modern wiring. The 3 pin plug you've got would appear to be what is shown as C0941 on the diagram, a red/green from fuse 40, the white/grey with yellow band appears to be the iBus connection but why the brown doesn't continue to where it should I've no idea. On the larger plug, you've got the colour codes that match the diagram but where the extra wires come from or what they do, appears to me to be a bit of a mystery. The diagram shows three wires, a white/blue, a white/red and a white/brown at the plug marked C1353 but you've got two of each. Then you've also got the red/green and the white/grey/yellow that should be on a separate plug as well as a pair of spurious brown wires. Unfortunately, unlike the diagrams for the P38, the ones for the L322 don't show a face view of every connector, just some of them so I can't see what C0941 and C1353 should look like. What year is your car as the diagram I'm using is for models up to 2005 so if it is later it may well be different.

I'm wondering if there should be another cable that attaches to what you have and goes between that larger plug and the CD changer unit. What connections are on the changer, the same as you have plugs for?

This is one reason why, if I ever do decide to risk an L322, I'll avoid a Vogue like the plague. I'd rather have a standard sized hole I can fit my own DAB radio into and use a separate satnav that doesn't need a CD that costs more than the average Tom Tom when it gets out of date. But I have been accused of being a Philistine..............

Copy and paste the Direct link from Photobucket into the little box that pops up when you click the insert picture button (and ignore the bit that says enter image description here as it doesn't seem to do anything).

But looking at the diagram, there isn't a lot to it.

Personally I'd say the changer you've bought is buggered or it's for a different model and the pins in the plug are different. It may be an L322 but 'lectric bits are the bits that me and Marty can manage no matter what the car (as 'lectric is work for both of us).

All of the installations being talked about here are on the later Thor engines so have the bunch of bananas getting in the way. The idea of the spacer is to lift the upper manifold so that there is clearance to either mount the injectors either side, and run the hoses between the rocker cover and inlet, or to mount them under the upper manifold and keep pipe lengths very short. This means that they don't have to be mounted on top where they can eat there way through the sound deadening on the underside of the bonnet. A lot more work and involves making the spacer but on a DIY system where time to do the conversion isn't relevant it'll make for a lot neater install.

GEMS is also fully sequential (according to the Technical Information Bulletin), it was only the Lucas 14CUX system fitted to the Classic and things like TVRs (the ones with a distributor) that weren't.

Don't reckon anyone knows what? I posted the same link in the other thread (https://rangerovers.pub/topic/315-welcome-to-dazer2000) and suggested you say sod the expense and go for the genuine one. It amazes me that the entire drive goes through a bit of floppy tin and 4 piddly little M10 bolts.

I had a similar experience, noise from somewhere that was much less at motorway height. I figured that slop in the splines would be worse when the prop was extended so bought a new front propshaft. That one was a Bearmach OEM but when I came to fit it, I noticed that the UJ's were in phase. The original that I took off had a spline missing so it could only go together out of phase but the new one didn't so could go together anyhow. I pulled it apart and fitted the two halves together with it out of phase by the same amount as the original. No noise at any height.

I think you are the second 322 owner that has joined and I know OldShep swapped a P38 for an L322 but then saw the error of his ways and changed it for another P38. Which small town then? Anywhere near me in Yaxley? Don't know too much about the L322 as there seem to be far too many interconnected things where a problem with one affects most of the car. Yes, most of us on here run P38's, new enough to have all the toys but not complex enough that you can still repair them and the parts are stupidly cheap too. Give me a P38 with the 300bhp of the L322 4.4 litre BMW engine (running on LPG of course) and I reckon that would be as close to perfection as you can get.

Anyway, it's a pub (a virtual one admittedly) so pull up a stool and it's your round......

Flex plate can be got from LRDirect (see https://www.lrdirect.com/FTC4607-Flex-Plate-Auto-New-Rr/). In all honesty if I was doing it, I'd say sod the cost and go for the genuine LR one even though the others will probably all last fine as long as torqued up properly. Oil is standard Dexron 3 auto transmission fluid although some have suggested that you don't use the synthetic stuff so stick with standard. Even Land Rover don't specify a brand, just ATF Dexron 3.

GEMS is much easier as it doesn't have that big bunch of bananas getting in the way. RH bank you can actually see the lower inlet manifold without removing anything. LH just needs the plenum lifting off. Most systems come with injectors in blocks of 4 which means the hoses to the back two cylinders on the LH bank can be a bit long. When (if) I ever change my singlepoint for a multipoint, I was thinking about using 4 blocks of two injectors so I can mount a block at each corner of the plenum chamber with the hoses being very short and dropping almost vertically downwards.

If you want, I'll see if I've got a manual in English for it.