Ferryman wrote:

I wish I had access to a lab where they can find out the true difference in pressure, regarding the 90/90 way and a certain value in Nm.

The problem there, and the reason I don't like stretch bolts, is that the pressure is going to be different depending on the exact spec of the stretch bolts you are using. While I have no doubt that the ones originally supplied to Land Rover and fitted when the engine was first assembled, will give the required pressure. However, ones made 20 years later may well not meet that spec. Then there is going to be the difference between genuine land Rover, Britpart and every other ones in between. You don't even know that all bolts in one set are going to exert the exact same pressure. So the pressure is likely to vary using the 90/90 method but when you tighten to a certain torque you know the pressure is going to be the same.

80 ft/lb not 80 Nm. 80 ft/lb works out to just under 110 Nm (108.465435907287 if you want to be really accurate), so using that method you'd tighten to something like 50-70-90-110.

No he doesn't, or not one for a HEVAC anyway, he's already looked. However, I received an email from him earlier today to say that he's found the knob and AUTO button under the drivers seat. Lugs that hold it in place are broken off but he thinks he'll be able to bodge it somehow.

My mate in France has just acquired a P38, he did a straight swap for a UK registered, RHD, diesel, Peugeot 406 Coupe which I picked up for him over here 3 years ago for £1200. He became the proud owner of a 1998, 4.6 HSE with an LPG conversion and a leaking water pump. Problem is, he does mechanics, if it goes up and down or round and round, he can get his head around it so an Airtex water pump was ordered and fitted . He does cosmetics, in fact, I think he could give Morat a run for his money (he does all the cosmetic and mechanical work on the cars we import from the US), but he is useless when it comes to electrics. So a P38 maybe isn't the ideal vehicle for him to own. Initially it had a dodgy drivers door latch so it thought the door was always open which caused all sorts of grief with the central locking/immobiliser, etc but that was sorted by pointing him in the direction of Marty and getting a new latch (incidentally, he reckons Marty is a fantastic bloke to deal with for those that weren't already aware). The EAS has had new air springs, and a ton of money spent on it but whoever did it obviously gave up so it has been disabled and a set of Shrader valves fitted so each corner can be pumped up individually. He's put a rebuild kit in the pump and new O rings in the valve block and I'm going down there in a couple of weeks with the Nanocom to recommission the EAS and get it as it should be. Just in case he's cocked it up, I'll also take the valve block and compressor from my SE so I'll have spares if they are needed. He's currently got the EAS MANUAL coming up on the dash so the jumpers have been put in the EAS ECU plug, so they will need to come out too.

However, he called his insurance company to get cover on it and as soon as he told them what vehicle it was, the response was, "So you'll be needing the optional breakdown cover then". Cheeky buggers, but in saying that, he decided to give it an oil and filter change but despite trying 3 different motor factors, nobody had a filter. One offered to order one for him at 24 Euros but warned that it might take a week, so I'll be taking a couple of those down for him too. So if it is that difficult to get something as simple as an oil filter in France, then anything else must be impossible. Only other thing with it is that the HEVAC is missing the fan speed knob and AUTO button. Does anyone have a dead HEVAC that they can be pinched from?

If you hadn't mentioned the loss of coolant I would have told you it was normal when running on LPG. As a far simpler hydrocarbon, a much larger proportion of the exhaust gas is water vapour when running on LPG so, particularly at this time of year, there does appear to be a lot of steam in the exhaust. Have a sniff of it, can you smell antifreeze in the exhaust? Of course, it might be that the coolant loss is somewhere else and it is nothing more serious that a leak from heater matrix, O rings, etc. To cause a liner to slip you'd need to have done something to it, usually a serious overheat, it won't just do it because it can and it is far less common that people that will try to sell you a replacement block with have you believe. When the head gaskets were changed, was one of the pistons steam cleaned or were they all covered in carbon? You would also have serious pressurisation causing the coolant to be spat out. It would also run rough, often dropping to 7 cylinders.

It's all looking good but I'm still having difficulty getting my head around some of it. Painting bits that you see I can understand but the sump? It'll be covered in mud the first time you drive the car out of the workshop. As for more than one coat, blimey.......

I doubt you will need them but just in case you do find that the tappet pre-load is out of spec due to the heads having been skimmed, I've got two sets of unused rocker pedestal shims, 15 and 30 thou. Let me know and I'll whack them in the post.

Morat wrote:

My only question now is: If coolant has corrosion inhibitors, do I have to worry about the floors rotting out?

Of course they won't, the corrosion inhibitors will prevent it from corroding.......

You'll just get soggy carpets.

If you've got snow, I'd offer to come up and give you a hand changing a radiator so I could have a play in it. If I hadn't already promised to replace the carpet with wooden flooring in my daughters house this weekend........

Don't want to worry you but the original rockers are cranked one way or another and fitted alternately. Those steel ones all look straight?......

Dunno about loose but don't forget they were designed in the 1960's so not exactly high tech.

I got my studs from V8 Dev..... £120 plus the dreaded if I remember right (I know they came to around £140 all in). They recommended 70ft/lbs, done in 3 stages, too. For running in oil they suggested using the cheapest mineral 20W-50 I could find for the first 1,000 miles to let everything bed in nicely. After that, 10 or 15W, 50 or 60 fully synthetic and change it every 10,000. I've been running this stuff http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/engineoils/10w60-engine-oil/?521770981&0&cc5_253 in it for 36,000 miles now (yes, I really have done 36,000 miles in under 2 years) and it may be expensive (so I buy it when they have one of their 30% off deals on) and my motor seems to like it.

Mmmm, looking pretty but isn't it all going to look a bit, ermm, black? You really need some shiny bits for contrast.

I'll try and get you a picture of my lower inlet but it might be difficult before Wednesday. I'm leaving home (in the works motor) at 7am, when it's still dark and not getting home until 9pm, when it's dark again. Might be OK with flash though, I'll give it a try.

C'mon lads, where's the P38 porn? I'm currently helping out and working 12 hour days (with an hour each way travelling too) so need something to break the boredom.

I complained about a few things and look where it got me......

I agree that something like this http://www.rangerovers.net/newrremedies.html (which is what I assume is meant by a Wiki) would be very helpful. I found that long before I found the forum over there but a lot of the tips are out of date and have never been updated. An up to date version of that sort of thing would be perfect.

If I knew what you were talking about I might or might not have an objection. But as I've no clue, then it's your site so do what you think needs doing.

My engine came from V8 Dev with no heads on it but the crank, oil pump and cam installed. The cam had plenty of lube on it that they'd put on. I filled it with oil by pouring it over the cam before the valley gasket went on. Once the heads were on, but no sparkplugs in, I just spun it over on the starter while watching the oil pressure light. It went out within a couple of full turns.....

A simple drain and refill shouldn't cause a problem, it's when people decide to flush the system that problems happen. This is the service schedule straight from the workshop manual.

Sidemarkers don't always flash, some do, some don't. But if you look inside the car, you'll see that the sidelamp warning light flashes.

No it isn't, it's the Ross Revenge, the one that replaced the Mi Amigo which sank in 1980. Ross Revenge was an amazing vessel, 980 tonnes displacement of ice strengthened former deep sea trawler, she even survived being beached on the Goodwin Sands where most ship break their back. Stayed there for a few days before being floated off again. She lost the 90m mast in a storm sometime around November 1987 after it had been weakened in the storm of 15th October 1987 and later used a wire T aerial strung between two smaller masts. She's now been restored with a smaller version of the original mast installed and is moored on the River Blackwater estuary in Essex. She's open to the public as a museum to the days of the pirate ships and I suspect smells a bit nicer than she did when I was out there in 1985..