It is a rolling code so yes, if the buttons have been poked many times it will lose sync. The procedure for the earlier cars is to put the key in the door lock, turn to lock, hold it there and press and hold the lock button on the fob until the LED flashes quickly. Then do the same for unlock. However, I think on the later ones, the sync in the ignition does the same job. If it now locks and unlocks on the fob, it does.

Orangebean wrote:

Well, it so happens that I'm looking hard for the right P38 at the moment...

I take it the second chance offer didn't happen then?

I read that blue box seals don't seal from day 1 so if that is all that has leaked out in a few months you've done well. Definitely looks like oil rather than ATF.

If I put my P38 in the garage, it's so narrow that I can't actually open the doors to get out of it, so working on it has to be done on the driveway. Where I live is very quiet as the road doesn't go anywhere but that didn't stop an old battery and a Volvo gearbox that I'd left outside disappearing one day. I do the same as you, put the bits I've taken off in the boot and need to be able to at least lock it overnight. With the battery left connected that isn't a problem at all.

I've seen Shep's P38 and it is as near immaculate as you are going to get anyway. It needs the thermal cutout replacing in the EAS compressor (currently bridged with a bit of wire) other than that I doubt you will find a nicer one anywhere. You could always buy the L322 but keep the P38 for when it breaks down.......

That's what I like to see, a lump of hose over the cable to the alternator so there's no need to disconnect the battery. Is it oil or ATF in the bellhousing? Oil would come from the rear seal on the engine rather than the gearbox.

I'd start by just doing the upstream ones as the downstream sensors are only to confirm the cats are working (which if they aren't there they won't be) so you may still get errors from them anyway. Faults all relate to the heater circuit rather than the sensors themselves so it may be that the generic ones have heaters with a different resistance that is causing the errors. As Morat says, did you reset the adaptive values after doing the work? What errors were you getting before, same ones or different? How does it drive now?

Looks like yours might be different to mine. I've got 4 self tappers slightly higher up and looking through the hole where the light goes, I can't see the fixing points you've marked. From memory when I last had it off (no idea when or why), once the self tappers were out I think it just fell off. I know the top section is only held on with self tappers from when I was getting to the rear washer tube.

and they are the same ones on a Peugeot 406. Should be plenty of them in your local scrappy.

Microcat shows self tappers too.

If you mean the one that goes along the full width of the bottom of the upper tailgate, mines held on with 4 self tappers????

It wouldn't surprise me if the local one falls through. Buyers often bid on something without looking at where it is. Then when they win and find it's hundreds of miles from them, they back out. In the case of Londoners, if they can't get to pick it up on the tube, it may as well be in a different country.

A very late blue one in Wales although it does have cool springs......
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-LPG/222278613005

Welcome to the other side. It looks like you tried to insert a picture but failed, if you ignore the bit that says title here or something like that and just put a link in the little box that pops up, it'll appear. I know exactly what you mean by little jobs on a P38, it's taken me the best part of 5 years and 125,000 miles to get everything working on mine and even then the rear washer only worked for a day!

Where in the world are you?

Only damage I've seen from a good blast (caused by me not putting one of the plug leads on properly) is blowing the gauze off the MAF sensor. After not finding it in the airbox, I looked a little deeper and found it laying in the plenum between the trumpets. How the hell it got through the throttle body I have no idea.

If you set cut off on over-run to about 1/3rd of the default and 1,500rpm, that should stop it.

Hmm, it shouldn't do that, mine doesn't. Have you got shut off on over-run set?

As Marty says, Zavoli is AEB but the Zavoli firmware only allows for a limited number of models of injectors. Zavoli Pan or Matrix according to the info I have. My SE has a set of Matrix on it and they give a gentle rustling noise, you can hear them with the bonnet open but you need to be listening for it. Bloody expensive though so if East Coast Rangies have any, it'd definitely be worth grabbing them. Come to that, it would be worth grabbing a complete install.

I could have entitled it, "Lifting a P38" but then people would have thought it would be a 'I want to know how to lift my P38 so I can fit these humongous tyres I found left over at the tractor shop'. I got a warning for suggesting that someone simply pressed the button on his dashboard......

That's funny, it got me banned the first time too. When I protested and pointed out that it was completely relevant and dated back to when the Defender came out on coils to replace the leaf springs on the series Landys, it got me banned a second time......

I suppose it's one of those, somebody once did it when the car was on the bumpstops and it pulled a spring apart so the rumour goes around that it will always happen without looking at the individual circumstances. They are designed to extend as far as the shocks will allow anyway. and before anyone suggests it doesn't happen with coils, may I direct your attention to the strapline at the top of the page........

From a discussion going on over on the dark side where some daft Yank had an air spring come apart so lubed the rubber bit to put it back together and then wondered why it kept coming apart again. Durr, they aren't normally lubed that's why. However, it moved onto the advice about not jacking the car on the chassis rails but only on the axles. Now I can see how it could be thought that this will pull an air spring apart and it probably would if it had no air in it at all, but if it is inflated it'll only extend as far as the shocks will allow it to so no different to dropping a wheel into a pothole or driving over some very rough ground. A tyre place I use has a guy that used to own a P38 and he always insists that the EAS is put on high so there is maximum pressure in the springs before jacking on the chassis. I appreciate that if a car is sitting on the bumpstops with no air in the springs, jacking it on the chassis could well cause the springs to come apart but there should never be a problem if they have air in them.

But why have I posted this advice here and not over there? After my ban, for which I am still awaiting an explanation, I registered another username giving the very briefest of information about me and using a completely different email address. I posted in one thread and my post appeared, only to disappear a few minutes later and since then I've posted a couple more times and the posts have never appeared. Looks like they may have sussed that it's me. Being logged in means I don't get half a screen of adverts though and I have found that I can send PMs.....

Anyway, we get a much better class of discussion on here.