As I discovered when I needed to take/collect my engine to V8 Developments, it will go in the boot of a P38 no problem. You need short straps from the engine crane to the engine and, with the lower tailgate down get the engine dangling above the boot. The problem then is that the boom on the crane isn't long enough to get the engine in the boot proper as it is against the lower tailgate but if you then slowly lift the lower tailgate and as you do that push the engine crane further forward, you can lower the engine into the boot.

Marty, I'd have asked them to skim the heads while they were off just so you can be sure you have a nice smooth surface that you can guarantee is perfectly flat too. I know my local engine machining man groans whenever anyone walks in with LR V8 heads as they have to be fitted on the machine at an angle. Most heads have a parallel top and bottom face so are easy to bolt down whereas ours have to have an adapter fitted to hold them at the correct angle for skimming. I've watched him do it and it takes longer to get the heads bolted down at the correct angle than it odes to do the actual skim.

Tony, if all they are doing is the liners and cam bearings, you best bet would be to strip the engine block completely. If you leave the crankshaft and dowels in place it's more work for them to remove and refit them. In saying that, if you intend using your original pistons (with new rings presumably), it might be better if it goes to them with the pistons so they can bore each liner to suit the piston. It might be worth asking them to replace the core plugs too while they have it, then you'll have virtually a brand new block to start with.

It does. One of the MoT stations I use has one so the test can be done by one man. No need for a second person to sit in the car wobbling the steering wheel when the pads on the ramp can do it for him. I suspect it's something marketed at one-man testing stations specifically.

If you assume the LPG system was calibrated with the petrol system running properly, then locked off, incorrect, adaptations would certainly screw up an sequential LPG system. All the LPG system calibration does is sets the fiddle factor needed to account for the different fuel at differing revs and loads. It should be set, using gas pressure and nozzle size, so that the LPG injectors need a pulse length of between 1.2 and 1.5 times the petrol injector times. So if at a given revs and load the petrol injectors need to be open for 10mS, the LPG ECU will add 2-5mS to the pulse length to fire the LPG injectors. Even if the LPG map is a little out, the petrol ECU will adjust to compensate. The symptom of this is that it will run rough when switched back to petrol but only until the trims readjust themselves.

If the engine has been running rough for whatever reason (dodgy MAF for instance), the petrol trims will have altered. That will change the injector pulse duration but the LPG map will not have altered, making the LPG mixture incorrect. It'll run rougher on LPG than on petrol as the air/fuel ratio needs to be closer to stoichiometric to burn properly. An engine on petrol will run with the mixture miles out, on LPG and the same amount out, the engine won't even run. Normally it could be run and the trims would adjust and bring everything back to where it should be but if there's not a lot of fuel in the tank, the fuelling adaptations won't self adjust and it'll carry on running rough not matter how long you drive on whichever fuel has incorrect settings.

Orangebean wrote:

The GEMS will not adapt the fuelling if there is 1/4 tank or less.

So that explains why my short term adaptations never changed from 38.75 since it was run with a clogged petrol injector. I thought it was me doing something wrong! I'll have to try it again now I've got half a tank of cheap Latvian 98 Octane.......

Will the system read a burnt CD? I used to have a Peugeot 406 company car with an early generation CD based satnav and that flatly refused to read copied discs. I only tried a simple disc copy rather than anything clever though and somebody at work suggested it needed an iso copy creating and then burning that which might have worked.

If you do a wet test and the compression on those two pots comes up, then you probably are looking at gummed rings, if it doesn't then you are looking at valves or my suspicion of a failing head gasket between the two pots. In either case, it sounds like the heads are going to need to come off at some point. But if you manage to convince your MoT tester to do his job properly and get it tested running on gas, it should go through with the readings you posted previously. At least then you can run it around and get a better idea of what the problem is. If the rings are gummed it might be that a bit of running with some synthetic oil in it could persuade them to un-gum themselves.

It's likely to be either running very weak or the cat is clogged. If it is sluggish revving that could be caused by either. As Sloth says, what does Nano say the lambdas are showing? How does it rev with the lambdas removed?

Hmm, not that I have a Calcium battery, or at least I don't think I have, but the alternator I got in France when mine died had the original LR label on it with the part number. That showed it to be the correct one for cars with a VIN up to TA so early cars. I wonder what the set point is on that? Although it's been on there for almost 5,000 miles, virtually all of it with the lights on (and the AC, a Peltier fridge and numerous other electrical odds n sods), and the battery hasn't gone flat yet

No, there's the online parts catalogues at http://new.lrcat.com/ and the other German one that was mentioned recently but they don't allow the VIN to be input. A dodgy version of Microcat was available to download a while ago but it doesn't appear to be around any longer. The big advantage with it is that if you enter a VIN (or even a Registration number) it shows the correct part where there are multiple part numbers. So it either only shows the part you would have or shows all parts but with 'not fitted to this vehicle' if you pick the wrong one.

According to the parts list, near side rear is BTR8890LNF up to VIN VA368103, EVL104180LNF from VA368104 to XA430701 but putting your VIN (from your post on the other site when you first got the car and queried the VIN number) into Microcat, shows that from YA430702 to end of run, it is EVL000150LNF. So it appears that there are actually 3 different ones and none supersede to the next so they do differ. No idea by how much though and whether you could fit an earlier one but Furness has one on eBay for £14.

To answer the conundrum. The early, as in the ones with two wheel traction control, diesel and 4.0 litre came with a 2 pin diff at both ends but the 4.6 had a 2 pin at the front and a 4 pin at the rear. Later, 4 wheel traction control ones all had 4 pin on the rear but still had a 2 pin on the front. You can fit a rear 4 pin diff in the front but they are supposedly noisier due to the crown wheel and pinion teeth being cut the wrong way. BUT, you could make up a 4 pin front using the 4 pin innnards from a 4 pin rear diff and fitting the crown wheel and pinion from a 2 pin front diff. A lot of messing about (which is probably why Ashcrofts charge as much as they do) for a gain which LR didn't see as being necessary so probably isn't unless you are going to be going in for some really serious off roading..

Your phone has good taste, it's blocked it......

I think that's why he needs some more pictures, to push it out again.....

Some of the ones from Rutland Rover's post in the LRO show thread would be good if he doesn't have a problem with you using them.

Serves you right for taking the seat out, you'd be blissfully ignorant otherwise. Panel under the glovebox drops out in seconds, 3 plastic studs and out it comes. I had mine out to duct tape up the joints in the heater ducting (that must be a first, using duct tape on ducts!) as the foam had fallen out years ago and most of the air from the blowers was coming out of the joints and finding it's way onto the passengers feet rather than going through the heater box. Maybe you've got a leak allowing rainwater into the ducting and it's dripping out of the joints so nowt to do with the AC at all.

I'd do a compression test if you haven't already. Two adjacent pots with oily plugs could be a sign of a blow between the two. Oil could be valve stem seal issue but could also point to gummed oil control rings, especially if it hasn't had regular oil changes in the past. BUT, if it was burning oil I'd expect to see the HC figure go through the roof as that shows unburnt Hydrocarbons and there would be loads.

I'd agree with Sloth on the LPG injectors being crossed, as that would cause one bank to go one way and the other the other way. It's not particularly relevant at the moment but could explain the rough running on gas. Where are the injector spuds fitted, ideally they should be fitted next to the petrol injectors, then there's no chance of them being wrong, but if they are fitted higher up, just beneath the join with the plenum chamber, then the ports do cross over. It might also be an idea to clean the plugs and then try running it on gas to see if they foul up the same as on petrol.

No idea, I always assumed it was on the inside as it cleared as soon as I started the engine but it could be on the outside.

I suggest you drop Simon an email telling him that you've been having random electrical problems for some time and finally found it was down to him. Could be a chuckle to see what he says.......

Any old core will do, I just need to compare the angle and position of the connection. It looks right but you can't really tell from pictures. Not even sure I need it, if I left the car for a few minutes in cold weather the windscreen would mist up above the demister outlets. That made me think there might be a slight leak from the heater core that was causing it.

Nice one, amazing what can be done when two of you get your heads together. When you do change the heater matrix, I'll have the old one. I've got the brand new Nissens one that came from Amazon for the princely sum of £7.50 but, despite what someone said over on the other forum, I want to compare it with a genuine Land Rover one to make sure it really is the correct one.

STFT's may be all over the shop but I bet it will be below 3.5% CO no matter how bad it is. My tester didn't bother testing mine last time as he said that if the emissions were far enough out for it to fail it wouldn't be running!

I agree, it should be able to pass the petrol test but with the LPG kit installed it shouldn't need to. If it's been mostly run on gas you've no idea on the state of the injectors or fuel pressure regulator if they've been dormant for a long time. I spent ages getting mine to run reasonably well on petrol just in case I ever needed to use it (although the petrol that had been in the tank for over a year didn't help).