That's a hell of a deal, buy it from Germany for a third of the UK price.

If you can squeeze hoses and still hear movement, there's air in there. It should be silent if all you are moving is coolant.

I thought they looked like they might be getting a bit perished Tony but didn't like to mention it. Sometimes they can look really bad in a photo but be fine in real life.

If it isn't raining tomorrow, I'll get under mine with a camera to get pictures of the intermediate hoses and where they mount.

There isn't anything on the axle, the hose goes from the brake caliper directly to the bracket on the body (as does the ABS sensor cable). The layout on a later car then has a short hard line (which is the first one to rot away) to another short flexi hose before going to the hard line that comes from the brake modulator. There was some discussion on here a while ago as to why there are these two and why you can't just run the hard line to the hose to the caliper. I suspect it's because the line from the front is attached to the body, the hose from the caliper is attached to the chassis and it's to allow for any movement between the two.

Top hose shouldn't get warm until the thermostat opens. The procedure in RAVE is a bit simplistic. My way of doing it is to disconnect the top hose and fill the engine block through there. When that is full, reconnect it and fill the tank. With the bleed hose from the top of the radiator disconnected, squeeze the top hose, plug the nipple on the radiator with your finger and release the top hose. This will blow air out of the nipple and draw coolant in from the tank. Keep doing this (and topping up the tank) until coolant flows from the nipple then connect the pipe to the tank (after blowing through it first to make sure it is clear). Then carry on squeezing and releasing the top hose but plugging the little hole just inside the tank filler neck to continue blowing air out and sucking coolant in. Once you are getting a constant stream of coolant through, give the hose a few squeezes and listen for any gurgling or bubbling anywhere. If you can hear any, there's still air in there so start the engine, let it run for 20-30 seconds and switch off. That should move any air around and let you bleed it out. Once there's no gurgling noises, then start the engine. With the tank cap off, let it idle and check the hoses. The first hose to start getting warm should be the one from the inlet manifold to the heater. Make sure that is getting warm and shortly afterwards the return from the heater should start to get warm too. Some coolant may come out of the tank due to simple thermal expansion, but it will just be a small dribble, not a volcanic explosion and definitely not with any bubbles. Run for a short time until you can feel the top hose getting warm. Switch off and let it cool down

Top up the tank if it needs it and put the cap on. Let the engine run and feel the hoses. The top hose will get hot and will get firm. It'll be firm, not rock hard if you've got all the air out.

There's something not right here. From the look of things when you took it apart, it didn't appear that you have a liner problem (which is far rarer than some would have you believe). They can be a real bugger to bleed if the cooling system has been completely drained and I suspect that is the problem you still have.

It needs 2, CR2025. But if the LED is lighting up when you press a button, it is unlikely to be the battery

You have got it spot on. The EAS is the same, airsprings perish and start to leak so the pump works overtime and either wears out or burns itself out. As nobody seems to understand it, they take the option that they do understand, big thick bits of bent wire. Then you get adverts claiming that the 'troublesome' EAS has been replaced and touting it as an advantage.

Bit of an anti-climax really. There seemed to be a lot more there last year than this. Not so many stands selling secondhand bits and those that were there seemed to be selling mainly Defender and Discovery bits, very little P38 stuff at all. In fact, the P38 seemed conspicuous by it's absence. There were probably more Range Rover Classics than P38s. The car park was full of Defenders and Discos with hardly a P38 to be seen.

What colour is it? If it's the blue or green stuff, it'll be Ethylene Glycol so should be fine. I've noticed that you can only buy pre-mixed coolant in France whereas here we can buy a concentrate that you add water to. Obviously some sort of safety ruling but it seems odd to me that you can't buy coolant concentrate yet you can buy a bottle of Hydrochloric Acid in Carrefour.......

What Christmas tree have you got lit?

I thought the brake pipe run looked very odd but then realised it was only the early cars that had a pipe running along the axle, they are laid out differently on later ones. Here's a pic of how they should run (later layout is shown in the box).

To be honest, I though that insecure parts would be an MoT fail but I've just checked the testers manual and there's no mention of a failure for pipes flapping around in the breeze (even though there is if it were a fuel line rather than a brake line).

Hi Adam, been following your rebuild on the dark side (in fact, I think I contributed until they banned me?), sounds like you've done a decent job too. I've heard of a few different ways of cleaning cooling systems out but a dishwasher tablet is a new one on me. However, I can't see it doing any harm and if it works on a K series, it should work OK on an engine designed many years previously. Not sure about OAT personally. There's certain things it isn't compatible with so I've always stuck with good old blue Ethylene Glycol like what RAVE says to use but I know a few people have the red coolant and not had any leaks appear yet.

My drivers one seems to latch properly but a couple of times just recently it's come undone on it's own if I've leant forward to poke the satnav or get my fags off the top of the dash. I'll be going to the LRO show later today, but it seems they aren't all the same otherwise I would have had a look to see if I can pick up a couple.

The other advantage with a stud is that you then have something for the manifold to hang on while you get the bolts started.

Getting the lower inlet manifold in with the rocker covers in place isn't easy either. But it does stop you dropping more bits down into the holes......

Not had the respray as they weren't able to fit it in at a time when I didn't need to use it. As it was going to be being driven most of the way across Europe with a GB sticker and Union Flag on the back (Dina's idea), I figured it ought to look vaguely respectable. So I reminded myself why I usually leave body and paintwork to the pro's and had a crack at it myself. With an aerosol of paint mixed to match, a bit of grey primer, a dollop or two of filler (on the rear arches) and a big roll of masking tape, I got stuck in. From 20 feet away it looks perfect, from 10 feet away it looks pretty good but up close it's not that pretty, you can see every mark and run. Painting the front grille and bumper so they are black and not a sort of faded grey made a big difference, as did painting the bottom strip of the grille in body colour and the wheels in silver instead of bubbly aluminium oxide.

The full respray will be happening in a couple of weeks.......

If you want to draw 40A, then a battery with a trickle charger permanently attached. A 230V AC to 12V DC power supply capable of supplying that kind of current would be rather large.......

You sure you need 40A?

You get a much better class of sarcasm, in fact, you get sarcasm without it being edited out by a moderator......

Because when he first popped up on the other forum, RRTH, our favourite know-it-all, told him he hadn't got a P38 because they weren't available in 1994. It is a very early UK car, first registered in December 1994. I admit, it's been updated with a few later bits, but the basic car is a very early one.

The only P38 with post cat sensors was the ones made for the US market, all the rest of world models only had pre cat sensors. It could well be that someone has tried adding additional 0-1V sensors to run a single point LPG system although Chris's car now has a multipoint so slaves off the petrol system.

I gutted the cats on mine (as they aren't needed when running on LPG) thinking it would make it sound throatier and maybe allow it to breathe better but it seemed to make no difference at all.

There's a number of different DSP amps but they are just that, different. The one fitted to a Disco looks the same as a P38 one but only drives the front door speakers, not the rears or sub, the L322 one is completely different again.

On a standard car audio system, the three (or two on the really basic low line system) speakers in each front door, are paralleled up so whatever is feeding them will feed all of them. On a basic, conventional, system you'd have 4 outputs from a head unit, going to front left, front right, rear left and rear right. Each of these outputs will feed all speakers in the four doors. So there will be a pair of wires from each door that go up to the head unit.

The original high line system had a head unit that delivers a lower level (not high enough to feed the speakers directly) output to the amps in the doors which then feed the speakers. I suspect this was because the high power levels the system runs would have made the head unit too big and run too hot if the output amps had been in the head unit itself. Modern amps are much smaller and run much cooler so modern systems can run 50+Watts without melting the dashboard.

The DSP system only has left and right channels, and a data signal from the head unit which go to the DSP amp in the boot. The data signal deals with splitting the signals between the front and rear speaker and the bass, treble, etc which is all done in the DSP amp. So instead of the cables form the speakers in each door going to the head unit, they all go to the DSP amp.

This means that, unlike the earlier systems, you can't just slap a modern head unit in the dash and expect it to work because they will have 4 (or five if you include a sub) outputs that are expecting to go directly to loudspeakers. Some modern units can have the output switched between speaker level or line level so can be used with the earlier system with external amps. If they can't, then that is when you need the attenuators to drop the speaker level down to something that the amps can handle.