So now we've got an oil burner expert too......
Fit Dunlops not some crap American aftermarket things.......
I was about to say I'd have the spare ones from you as both my front ones (non-HK, bog standard LR originals) are getting a bit tired and rattle when I want to make my ears bleed. Then realise where you are and speakers are heavy so postage would probably cost more than a new set.....
GeorgeB wrote:
Just wish i could replace the LED sides now, but can't find the incandescent bulbs I need here.
They are off the shelf from any motor factors over here. Do you want a handful picking up and bunging in the post?
Absolutely spot on that man. A 2015 model (October 2014 build), Russian spec, Bentley Continental GT Speed. Biggest headache is going to be swapping the headlights for RHD ones so it can go through an IVA test (and then swapping them back as it is destined for France anyway). Bentley themselves quote 6 hours labour to change a headlight, I reckon it's going to take me a couple of days and the weather isn't really conducive to working outside even if it will be in a garage. It looks like the front grille and both front wings have to come off, all without damaging anything on a car that only has 5,000 kms from new......
There's a thing called a Grom unit which will do what you want to do. See http://gromaudio.co.uk/partfinder/product/list/?make=Landrover&model=Range%20Rover%20HSE&year=2000-2004 not cheap though.
Normal display means the XYZ switch is OK so the most likely thing is that it's a bit low on fluid. Unfortunately you've got the later one so no dipstick on the gearbox, checking the level involves crawling underneath and risking getting a face full of Dexron 3. If the engine is off, then the level will be high making you think that there's plenty in there but it has to be checked when cold but with the engine running and after you've gone through the gears a couple of times to circulate the fluid.
I am still on there and dropping the odd PM to people telling them about this site too. What annoys me most is that when someone who has been around for a while asks a stupid question, then I can understand the unhelpful replies (it's all in RAVE, try a search, etc) but when you get a new owner who has no idea what he has and has just joined, it isn't exactly welcoming.
As you have obviously now found, there's not much you can't do on a P38 yourself. They may seem complex initially but once you get stuck in, they're pretty simple machines really. My father, who always worked on his own cars when he was younger, called round while I was doing the head gaskets on my SE and thought it looked complicated until I pointed out that it's only a pair of nice simple 4 cylinder pushrod engines no different to the old Fords he used to pull apart without a second thought years ago.
We'll accept anyone on here and the more stupid the question the better. We'll just take the piss out of them mercilessly if they ask about converting to coils or fitting an L322 front end......
But only in the opinion of Americans......
All I've ever used on mine are off the shelf at my local motor factors, Apec pads and never had a problem. Even when towing 4.5 tonnes of boat and trailer with no over-run brakes for the best part of 1,000 miles. Not for the P38 but I've bought Apec branded discs in the past for other cars and found Brembo stamped around the outside edge. I'd say go for OEM standard, as you say, the Fast and Furious might be good for something with the same power but half the weight but aren't necessary on a P38.
If it gets a bit warmer by the weekend, I'll get out there and do some tests and I'll see what I can sort out with the bonnet catch switch too. However, if I don't get it done by Sunday evening then it won't get done for a while as I've got a toy arriving that needs to be got ready for an IVA test to get it registered in the UK. 12 cylinders, 626 bhp and a top speed of 206 mph. I don't think I'll be confirming the top speed but I suspect the claimed 0-100 mph figure of 9 seconds will get tested.......
Could be the evaporative thingy that lurks on that side with the pipe connected to the inlet manifold. Very, very occasionally, and it hasn't done it for over a year now, mine would start and idle fine but do nothing when I pressed on the throttle. This was accompanied by a sort of moaning sound. If I switched off and restarted it would fire up fine and the noise would be gone. I has assumed that was coming from the EVAPs bits.
Having had the mis-shapen relay sitting on my coffee table looking at me since yesterday, a few minutes ago I decided to prise the cover off. The relay contacts, despite looking like they should be up to passing the 30A they are rated at, I just measured 1.1 Ohms across the closed contacts.
If it was a bit warmer outside, I'd do some tests but I went outside this morning to do a couple of little jobs, stepped out of the door, turned round and came back in again. It was bloody freezing!
It is, it's the one for the LH blower. It's one of the ones that people have said can burn out if your pollen filters are clogged making the fan work harder which has always seemed complete bollocks to me. The fan might be drawing slightly more current but there shouldn't be any resistance in the relay to cause it to get hot anyway, although it obviously did..... No sign of any damage to the fusebox though.
My wife works away for a week at a time and he car doesn't get used during the week. Last week she came to come home and the battery was flat so the AA had to be called out. So I treated her car to a new battery and found the old one was dated 11/04 so it hadn't done bad. I also decided to treat mine to a new one too. It hasn't given any problems but it is 5 years old and as the one on the SE was completely knackered I figured I could put the old one on that.
Went out today to swap the battery but didn't want to disconnect the power. I don't mind setting the windows but retuning the radio with allk the FM and DAB stations as well as setting the 9 band graphic for each input takes forever. So a couple of bits of wire with croc clips and the battery I'd just taken off the missus's car could power it while I changed the main battery. I connected the positive to the big stud inside the fusebox so had the lid off. While there I noticed something that didn't look quite right. At some time someone (probably me actually) had fitted a cheap generic relay in the RL7 position.
I think it had got a bit warm......
Mine and Gordon's are both GEMS (and both running single point systems) but Marty's is a multipoint on a Thor
Only because I'm PM'ing them as they pop up on the other one......
You're welcome. That's what a forum is for.
You mean you've got a cover? Neither of mine have.....
Hi Tom and welcome. Your electrical expertise, along with that of Marty, should be a definite bonus on here. Gordon and I have done just about every job on a P38 that is likely to come up so we've got a fair but of experience.
Yes, got heartily pissed off with the pain in the arse admin on the other site (see, we can say things like that on here without every other word turning into **) who seemed to have it in for Gordon, me and most others from the home of the Range Rover. When he's running a site that was originally started by a New Zealander, now owned by a Canadian company and dedicated to a British car I'm not sure how he can refer to it as an NAS site.
Richard