Allegedly, I sent invites to people on a daily basis for a couple of months. Funny that, so how come we've only got 45 members?

Ferryman wrote:

Or must I look at it first digit unlock, second digit lock, third digit unlock and fourth digit lock direction and conclude with turning the key in unlock direction (no matter even or uneven)?

Yes, as an example my EKA is 5335, so it's lock x 4 to initialise it then unlock x 5, lock x 3, unlock x 3, lock x 5 then unlock to unlock the car. Then sync the keyfob (this process is stored in my phone for when I need it). Odd or even isn't relevant at all, just coincidence.

It may be all posh and shiny on the outside but it's still got a truck engine in it so will rattle and blow clouds of smoke.....

If I was a mod on the other site, I'd have to delete that and ban the member that posted it. But I'm not and I won't, it just caused me to laugh out loud! (sits back and waits for more smutty comments regarding posting free moving flaps.......).

Patience dear boy, patience......

Both here http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/landrover/ and here http://www.robisonservice.com/servicedep/rover_obd2.asp say that P0175 means band B too rich if that's any help.

It is a rolling code so yes, if the buttons have been poked many times it will lose sync. The procedure for the earlier cars is to put the key in the door lock, turn to lock, hold it there and press and hold the lock button on the fob until the LED flashes quickly. Then do the same for unlock. However, I think on the later ones, the sync in the ignition does the same job. If it now locks and unlocks on the fob, it does.

Orangebean wrote:

Well, it so happens that I'm looking hard for the right P38 at the moment...

I take it the second chance offer didn't happen then?

I read that blue box seals don't seal from day 1 so if that is all that has leaked out in a few months you've done well. Definitely looks like oil rather than ATF.

If I put my P38 in the garage, it's so narrow that I can't actually open the doors to get out of it, so working on it has to be done on the driveway. Where I live is very quiet as the road doesn't go anywhere but that didn't stop an old battery and a Volvo gearbox that I'd left outside disappearing one day. I do the same as you, put the bits I've taken off in the boot and need to be able to at least lock it overnight. With the battery left connected that isn't a problem at all.

I've seen Shep's P38 and it is as near immaculate as you are going to get anyway. It needs the thermal cutout replacing in the EAS compressor (currently bridged with a bit of wire) other than that I doubt you will find a nicer one anywhere. You could always buy the L322 but keep the P38 for when it breaks down.......

That's what I like to see, a lump of hose over the cable to the alternator so there's no need to disconnect the battery. Is it oil or ATF in the bellhousing? Oil would come from the rear seal on the engine rather than the gearbox.

I'd start by just doing the upstream ones as the downstream sensors are only to confirm the cats are working (which if they aren't there they won't be) so you may still get errors from them anyway. Faults all relate to the heater circuit rather than the sensors themselves so it may be that the generic ones have heaters with a different resistance that is causing the errors. As Morat says, did you reset the adaptive values after doing the work? What errors were you getting before, same ones or different? How does it drive now?

Looks like yours might be different to mine. I've got 4 self tappers slightly higher up and looking through the hole where the light goes, I can't see the fixing points you've marked. From memory when I last had it off (no idea when or why), once the self tappers were out I think it just fell off. I know the top section is only held on with self tappers from when I was getting to the rear washer tube.

and they are the same ones on a Peugeot 406. Should be plenty of them in your local scrappy.

Microcat shows self tappers too.

If you mean the one that goes along the full width of the bottom of the upper tailgate, mines held on with 4 self tappers????

It wouldn't surprise me if the local one falls through. Buyers often bid on something without looking at where it is. Then when they win and find it's hundreds of miles from them, they back out. In the case of Londoners, if they can't get to pick it up on the tube, it may as well be in a different country.

A very late blue one in Wales although it does have cool springs......
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-LPG/222278613005

Welcome to the other side. It looks like you tried to insert a picture but failed, if you ignore the bit that says title here or something like that and just put a link in the little box that pops up, it'll appear. I know exactly what you mean by little jobs on a P38, it's taken me the best part of 5 years and 125,000 miles to get everything working on mine and even then the rear washer only worked for a day!

Where in the world are you?

Only damage I've seen from a good blast (caused by me not putting one of the plug leads on properly) is blowing the gauze off the MAF sensor. After not finding it in the airbox, I looked a little deeper and found it laying in the plenum between the trumpets. How the hell it got through the throttle body I have no idea.

If you set cut off on over-run to about 1/3rd of the default and 1,500rpm, that should stop it.