O rings were shot so coolant poured out if the hoses were connected, so I just put a pair of O rings in it.

Same as on anything else. Disconnect the two hoses that go through the bulkhead to the heater matrix and join them together with something (a couple of plumbing 90 degree bends had been used on my SE when I first got it).

Ooh, I'll do mine then. I thought my touchscreen was faulty as I needed to poke it quite firmly. As well as showing the correct ABS sensors, it may also show the correct blower fan. I changed my drivers side (RH) fan for one without a sloppy bearing and immediately got the book symbol. Nano told me that the LH fan had a stop failure yet when I looked at what was happening, the 'new' RH fan is not giving any feedback to the HEVAC and the LH one was working properly. So it was telling fibs about that too.

I'd say use the 46D too but with the strength of the Euro against the pound it might be worth getting the whole lot done in one place. My engine was done here http://www.v8developments.co.uk/workshop/reliner/index.shtml. It's so far done 35,000 miles (in 20 months) and is running better than it ever has. It really looked pretty when I picked it up too. Marty has been talking about getting a couple of engines done too so it might be worth seeing about a bulk discount.

gordonjcp wrote:

Could it be a faulty injector simulator, leaving the fuel and gas injectors on?

Unlikely, it would be running so stupidly rich you'd smell it and the emissions would be through the roof.

Flowchart from the testers manual is here http://www.motuk.co.uk/images/730_newnoncat.pdf . Also, if it is presented running on LPG, it does not need a full CAT test so it doesn't need to have cats fitted (see http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual_710.htm ). It may be that as it has an LPG conversion on it, the cats have been gutted so are only empty boxes.

However, running it with no MAF would make it drop into a failsafe default which will be running rich. The Titania sensors show 5V when lean and 0V when rich but some generic readers invert the lambda sensor results so they display a comparable output to a Zirconia sensor with 0V being lean, while others just change the voltage. So, depending on the reader, 0V might be lean but might be rich. Better to hang a multimeter on the output so you can see what it is actually doing. Sounds like you've got one lazy sensor, or the heater isn't doing it's job, so only gives a reading when it gets heated enough by the exhaust gases.

What are you doing testing the emissions on petrol? It should be tested on the fuel it is presented for test running on so if it is running on LPG it gets tested to the LPG limits which are 3.5% CO, 1200 ppm HC and no lambda check.

This is the pipes and brackets used on the later layout.

Bracket 14 secures the hose to the hub which you probably have anyway. The bracket without a part number (but with bolt 9 going through it) is the one that you could see in Tony's picture that has the hose and ABS sensor wire going through it and is bolted to the lower part of the chassis. Bracket 6 (ANR5918 on the LH side and ANR5919 on the RH side) bolts to the upper part of the chassis rail, while bracket 3 (ANR5917) bolts to the body. So it isn't as straightforward a job to upgrade it as it might appear as the fixing points may well not exist on the chassis and body.

How long is long?.....

Ray is in Canada Spriggy so costs of a replacement engine are significantly higher. I can't open the csv files so can't comment on the readings but cracked exhaust manifolds will allow air to be drawn in before the O2 sensors. That will create false readings suggesting to the engine ECU that the engine is running lean. So it will pump more fuel in to get it right again which will explain the fuel consumption. Running rich will also make the engine gutless so it could be that they are the cause of all the problems.

I would suggest that the oil leaks on the heads are not from the head gaskets but from the rocker cover gaskets as there are no oilways at the front of the heads. There's waterways but not oilways. Leaking from the coolant pressure cap may be nothing more serious than a worn cap and a replacement cap is cheap enough (they are the same as 5 series BMWs making them easy to get hold of too).

With a sequential if it won't run right on petrol, it won't run right on gas either. My SE did just the same, it would start then immediately die. I found that if I kept pumping the throttle to keep the revs up, eventually it would idle normally. Swapped the MAF sensor with the one from the ex-plod and it was back to normal. The GEMS isn't as fussy about pattern MAF sensors but ideally you want a genuine one.

Not sure this shows much more than Tony's pic but crawling underneath the car with a digital SLR in hand before going to work certainly confused the postman. The hose from the caliper and ABS sensor cable go to a bracket on the lower part of the chassis, then a short link pipe (which on mine is now in Kunifer as the original steels ones rotted away so the shape will be different to original) to another bracket at the top of the chassis. From there, there's another short hose up to the body where it connects to the hard line from the modulator.

We had Discoverys at work and someone tipped one over (combination of taking a slope at the wrong angle and a 10m pneumatic mast attached at gutter height). H&S manager got involved and decided that anyone that drove one of them needed to do an off road driving course. So I got sent to Solihull to do a one day course in a Disco. It had rained constantly for about a week before I went and the first thing I saw when I got there was this huge, rutted, mud hill. My initial thought was that you'd need at least a Defender on massive wheels and mud tyres to get up that. Half an hour later I was driving up it in a bog standard, TD5 Disco on standard wheels and road tyres. The instructor actually said that he thought the P38 was the best of the bunch but even the Freelander was far more capable off road than he expected. Admittedly most of it is down to technique which seemed to be 2nd gear, low ratio, for just about everything. The only thing you can't do with an auto is the recovery after you've stalled it going uphill (foot on brake pedal, select low ratio reverse gear, clutch out, foot off brake pedal so it is hanging against compression and flick the starter. Engine fires up and you creep backwards down the hill ready for another go).

I wouldn't mind having a go at an RTV trial in mine but it would need to be a gentle one if it's after it gets it's long awaited respray.

That's a hell of a deal, buy it from Germany for a third of the UK price.

If you can squeeze hoses and still hear movement, there's air in there. It should be silent if all you are moving is coolant.

I thought they looked like they might be getting a bit perished Tony but didn't like to mention it. Sometimes they can look really bad in a photo but be fine in real life.

If it isn't raining tomorrow, I'll get under mine with a camera to get pictures of the intermediate hoses and where they mount.

There isn't anything on the axle, the hose goes from the brake caliper directly to the bracket on the body (as does the ABS sensor cable). The layout on a later car then has a short hard line (which is the first one to rot away) to another short flexi hose before going to the hard line that comes from the brake modulator. There was some discussion on here a while ago as to why there are these two and why you can't just run the hard line to the hose to the caliper. I suspect it's because the line from the front is attached to the body, the hose from the caliper is attached to the chassis and it's to allow for any movement between the two.

Top hose shouldn't get warm until the thermostat opens. The procedure in RAVE is a bit simplistic. My way of doing it is to disconnect the top hose and fill the engine block through there. When that is full, reconnect it and fill the tank. With the bleed hose from the top of the radiator disconnected, squeeze the top hose, plug the nipple on the radiator with your finger and release the top hose. This will blow air out of the nipple and draw coolant in from the tank. Keep doing this (and topping up the tank) until coolant flows from the nipple then connect the pipe to the tank (after blowing through it first to make sure it is clear). Then carry on squeezing and releasing the top hose but plugging the little hole just inside the tank filler neck to continue blowing air out and sucking coolant in. Once you are getting a constant stream of coolant through, give the hose a few squeezes and listen for any gurgling or bubbling anywhere. If you can hear any, there's still air in there so start the engine, let it run for 20-30 seconds and switch off. That should move any air around and let you bleed it out. Once there's no gurgling noises, then start the engine. With the tank cap off, let it idle and check the hoses. The first hose to start getting warm should be the one from the inlet manifold to the heater. Make sure that is getting warm and shortly afterwards the return from the heater should start to get warm too. Some coolant may come out of the tank due to simple thermal expansion, but it will just be a small dribble, not a volcanic explosion and definitely not with any bubbles. Run for a short time until you can feel the top hose getting warm. Switch off and let it cool down

Top up the tank if it needs it and put the cap on. Let the engine run and feel the hoses. The top hose will get hot and will get firm. It'll be firm, not rock hard if you've got all the air out.

There's something not right here. From the look of things when you took it apart, it didn't appear that you have a liner problem (which is far rarer than some would have you believe). They can be a real bugger to bleed if the cooling system has been completely drained and I suspect that is the problem you still have.

It needs 2, CR2025. But if the LED is lighting up when you press a button, it is unlikely to be the battery

You have got it spot on. The EAS is the same, airsprings perish and start to leak so the pump works overtime and either wears out or burns itself out. As nobody seems to understand it, they take the option that they do understand, big thick bits of bent wire. Then you get adverts claiming that the 'troublesome' EAS has been replaced and touting it as an advantage.