The tint will come off easily enough with a hair dryer (although getting the glue off afterwards can be real fun) and the wind deflectors could soon come off too. At least it hasn't got the light guards that leave holes in the wings. Body looks pretty good too except for the dent in the tailgate. I'm not sure about green either but I prefer light colours anyway.
Now I know you can't look at both sides at the same time but am I the only one that's noticed that the drivers side door handles have the remains of chrome covers on them but the passenger side ones haven't? Mind you, a guy I used to work with had a Disco that was bought direct from Land Rover where it had been a pool car used by the bigwigs. That was metallic burgundy but had silver pinstripes on one side and grey on the other. He owned it for almost a year before I noticed it and he never had.
Orangebean wrote:
I think mainly because the devil I know will always be a '95 130000 mile GEMS on single point lpg and, no matter what I do to it (needs aircon, headlining, fascia replacement, paint- prob about £1500) it'll still be a 95 GEMS and worth the same as it stands at the moment.
Very true, I didn't realise yours was an early one. But, mines a 1998, 322,000 mile GEMS on a single point and if I were to sell it I probably wouldn't even get what the engine cost me back. I've got a multipoint that I'm in the process of taking off the SE (as it's going to appear on ebay soon as a complete, fully running car with no MoT due to a cracked windscreen) which I had intended fitting to mine but I honestly can't really see any benefit. I'd use more petrol and also would have to rely on a fully working petrol system, at least with the single point it doesn't really matter if the MAF, lambda sensors, temp sensors, etc fail, it will still run fine on gas. Having spent the money on the engine, done the EAS, blend motors, door latches, both diffs, ball joints, headlining (and numerous other little bits) and am about to get it sprayed, then it will be as I want it. It'll still be my car but will be the devil I know. Yes, a Thor would be nice but my fear is having to do everything I've already done to mine again on another one.
Or leave the N but take off the G, E and R so it reads, RAN OVER.......
There are, but not cheap http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2000-W-LAND-ROVER-RANGE-ROVER-HOLLAND-AND-HOLLAND-4-6-HSE-VOGUE-RARE-CAR-/322274537772, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Range-Rover-4-6-auto-2000MY-30th-Anniversary-Ltd-Edn-/201617606474 or a 50th Ann (but you don't get a small forest with them and it's a GEMS) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Range-Rover-4-6-P38-50th-Anniversary-1998-/152117923080
There's an Autobiography too but it's rough http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/range-rover-p38-autobiography-/232102483297 but if it's shiny bodywork you want, why not get yours resprayed? Sooner the devil you know than somebody else's cast off.
I've always said, once you've owned one and learnt to love it, you won't want anything else. Not sure I'd want one with purple seats though......
That's the biggest problem with trying to advise on the neatest way of running the plumbing, every make of vaporiser has the coolant pipes in a different place or orientation. So what will work fine on one will be a real 3 dimensional birds nest on another. Then of course there's the slight, but pretty significant, differences in coolant runs between Thor and GEMS. Just to make it even more confusing, the best place to fit the vaporiser on a single point is on the other side of the car so it keeps the gas hose run to the throttle body short (and there's a lot more space) but then the coolant hoses are on the opposite side.
I saw the title and thought you were looking for some. I replaced my fronts as I'd already done the rears and when the front axle was swapped Marty said he thought one of the fronts seemed a little weak. Bought the OE Boge units to find they are exactly the same as the ones I was taking off. So if anyone wants a secondhand pair of Boge fronts, I've got them too.
Whenever I've had screens not working, always found it's the earth tags have come unsoldered, if, when you change the foam under the panel with wipers, your come across them, centre of screen,just plonk the soldering iron on them and they normally reattach. I love my heated screen 😁
Hmm, another excuse to fit the foam I bought months ago but never got around to doing. This was mine a couple of winters ago but by last winter I was down to only a couple of strips on the passenger side and one thin 1" wide clear strip on the drivers.
I changed my P38 and the Classic as both were suffering problems with parallel plumbing. The P38 heater would drop to vaguely lukewarm when idling in traffic in the winter and the Classic would ice up the vaporiser within 3-400 yards on a cold morning (see below). Changing to series plumbing cured both problems. With the coolant having a choice of routes to take, it'll take the easiest one so whichever is less easy will suffer. The reason a lot are plumbed in parallel is because on a car where the heater temperature is controlled by a valve in the coolant flow, with it in series and the heater turned off, there's no flow through the vaporiser/reducer. Installers will plumb in parallel as that will work no matter if the heater is full flow (as ours are) or variable.
This is what a vaporiser looks like with insufficient coolant flow......
In Ferryman's thread I recommended plumbing it in series and fitting it in the flow hose (number 21 on the diagram) which is how I've got both of mine and the Classic I had before. But, if your reducer is installed where putting it in the return will make it neater, then I can't see a problem. In fact, on the multipoint system on the SE, putting it in the return would have been a bit neater. The return may be a couple of degrees cooler than the flow but it's doubtful it will make a lot of difference.
So there's your air leak. You have to be careful fitting the injectors without damaging the O rings that seal them into the manifold. When I put mine together I slobbered them with the red rubber grease used on brake caliper seals. It might be that some of the O rings have twisted so aren't sealing.
If it doesn't run right on petrol, with a multipoint LPG system, it won't run right on LPG either as it is the petrol ECU that is controlling the fuelling.
Just out of interest, how has the slipped liner been diagnosed?
Do I detect the hint of a Dijon summercamp, in the winter, coming up?
Now it doesn't bother me too much as running on petrol is only as a real last resort, but Nano reports my STFT at 38.75 and it stays at that even after I've reset the adaptive values (although Marty's comment that they don't reset until next power up may explain that). It runs well enough to get me to the next LPG filling station but the lambda sensors stay at 5.07V suggesting a very lean mixture and the smell from the exhaust, and the way it runs, suggests very rich. Like I say, it doesn't bother me as the petrol is used very rarely but I have thought it might be nice to get it running as it should.
It probably is. How can we split it and start a new one? My mod status seems to only allow me to delete, lock or highlight a thread or edit an individual post.
Orangebean wrote:
AA Relay is your friend. I have the personal, rather than vehicle, cover for self and family members. Vehicle cover is hard to get if you drive anything over 15 years old.
European cover is even harder. I've got AA personal cover for the UK as a freebie with my bank account and have used it a couple of times in the last 10 or so years. When I asked for a quote to extend it to cover Europe, they quoted me well over £300 a year so I used to buy single trip cover through AXA at about £12 a trip. However, as soon as the car reached 15 years old they would no longer cover me. Tried to find another supplier and kept getting Google hits on motorhome forums. It seems that many motorhome owners use ADAC, the German equivalent to the AA, as many motorhomes exceed the maximum size and weight that the AA will cover. ADAC gives personal cover for all EU countries, on any vehicle, for 80 Euros a year. It even gives cover in the UK and if you call them from the UK they send out their local agents, the AA. It just means that if you do break down, you need to call Germany although when I called to find out how to join, they all seem to speak excellent English.
Assuming you look after it, I would expect at least 250,000 miles out of any engine (especially one running on LPG). My original engine was at 287,500 when I decided that it was getting decidedly sluggish when towing 3 tonnes up the hills on the Autoroutes to the south of France. So with the new liners, pistons and rings, it should go on for at least that distance again.
I know exactly what you mean by gaining confidence though. I had a Classic, it was rusty and half the electrics didn't work but it started, went and stopped. I bought the P38 knowing it needed work so I did that and started to use it but kept the Classic just in case. Initially, I didn't trust the P38 as far as I could throw it as every time I used it something else would give cause for concern. The first planned long distance trip in it (deliver a Jag XJS to Holland) ended up being done in the Classic as something else had decided to stop working the day before I was due to set off. But, with time and, as you say, learning more about it, I started to get more confidence in it and now just get in it and use it. On another forum someone suggested I was totally bonkers to even contemplate driving an 18 year old V8 P38 on a 3,800 mile round trip (I did fail to mention the previous 1,000 miles which weren't entirely incident free though) but I'd do it again tomorrow given an excuse.
I think, but am not 100% certain, that a long nose crank is one that is used in a car with the serpentine belt rather than an earlier one for a Classic or Discovery (or TVR and the like) with Vee belts and narrower pulleys.
The DSP system has a hoofing great DSP amp lurking behind the sub that connects to all of the speakers rather than individual amps in each door. You may well have one which further confirms the sub has been changed.
Certainly sounds as though the sub has been changed. As David's car is one of the very last P38s, I would have thought it would have the DSP system. That would have involved the black box with a 40 odd way connector. Maybe someone has tried to use a door amp to drive the sub and then found it isn't necessary? Or it's one of Marty's prototypes.......