phazed wrote:
Definitely no sign of a leak under the bit of foam on the top corner although the alloy is corroded there.
If it taking the best part of a year to lose a charge,you only have an extremely tiny leak so the STP leak stop will almost certainly cure it for at least a couple of years. Bear in mind that the system runs at 10 bar so to lose 1250g of refrigerant in a year is an extremely small leak.
Well it's for things that leak, so will probably be correct. The most common leak point is the top corner of the condenser on the RH side (as seen from the driver's seat). If you take the slam panel off you will see there is a block of foam on that corner and it corrodes under the foam. You#ll only see anything with a UV torch if dye was put in with the refrigerant when it was gassed, you won't see the R134a without the dye. As it has been working but is slowly losing gas, there's no need to replace the drier. That is only necessary if the system has been left with only air in it for any length of time.
If you've got a Nano you can check to see if the pump is running. You can also see the state of the pressure switch and thermal switch in the pump. Looking at those might give you a clue as to what is going on.
Last things first. The clicking is normal as it will settle 3 corners to match the lowest when you switch off so it is sitting level (or at least all corners will be at the same height).
Pump will be inhibited if there is a soft fault which would explain why it started when you cleared the fault. The fact that it takes ages to rise suggests either the pump isn't supplying enough pressure or you have a leak at the reservoir or in the pipework to it so it loses all pressure meaning the pump has to fill it first before the car will rise.
I think when we did the grand headlining summer camp where we did 7 or 8 headlinings, Oatmeal was decided as the closest to the original for a Lightstone interior https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimming-supplies/range-rover-headlining-kits.php even though the pictures on the website bear very little resemblance to the actual colours. Martrim will send you samples if you ask them so you can confirm for yourself.
Feed for the RH side speakers goes via another connector but the ETM doesn't show a location. It also doesn't make a lot of sense as it shows C0310 plugged into C0308 but C0308 is a 16 way and C0310 is an 18 way although the Green/Black and Black/Green are shown as on pins 3 and 4 on both. Looking at the ETM for earlier cars, shows the feed to the RH speakers as going via a connector behind the RH kick panel so maybe it is there and has suffered the dreaded green corrosion.
MG latches for the LH, passenger door are no good as they only have one microswitch and the P38 needs 2. That would explain why the plug is different, less switches needing less wires. You could fit a LHD LH MG latch though as that will have a full set of switches.
Later (mid 99 onwards) P38 latches have a single 8 way plug with only 7 ways used.
Somebody did post it a while ago but I have a feeling the trim codes A, B and C denote the trim level and not the colour, so trim code A would be what was fitted to a base model, B would be something like an SE and C would be HSE.
Yes, the two wires, or centre wire and screen, from the phono output to one side of the transformer with the Orange and Orange/Black to the other side of it.
I'm nocturnal, so can often be found posting late at night but not early in the morning (unless I'm in a different time zone that is). I regard 4am as late last night not early this morning......
They would but the pre-outs on the head unit are there to feed into an external amp which you don't have. One of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232575093087 should isolate the unbalanced sub output to the balanced input the sub amp expects to see.
Is there any slack on the lever? The fact that the lights shows correctly says that the gearbox and the XYZ switch are in sync and it is the lever that isn't. If you don't have any slack, then the cable needs to be adjusted.
Most likely the cable is stiff or needs adjustment. I've driven a number of cars where the gear shift is much stiffer than on both mine suggesting that a stiff cable isn't unknown. Does the light next to the gear lever show the position the lever is in or the gear you are in?
He's replacing the head unit and (dead) DSP amp so is using standard speaker level outputs from the head unit and linking the in and out at the DSP amp location via crossovers. So it is only the sub amp that expects to see a balanced input but is being fed with an unbalanced signal, hence the hum.
The bits at the sides rust but I've not seen one where the main bit across the back has rusted unless it's been used for launching a boat in salt water in the past. Try giving Phil (Holland&Holland on here) a call on 07803 582070. He's got a couple in for breaking at the moment.
Orange/Black and leave the Orange connected to the centre pin of the phono output of the head unit.
The sub output on the head unit is probably unbalanced meaning that it has a live side and a grounded side. The original output, and that which the sub amp expects to see, is balanced so neither are grounded they are a positive and negative output. You may find that disconnecting the ground at both ends, and only using the Orange wire will drop the level but will cure the hum.
Can't help you. I know some have done that mod but I don't do diseasel so can't give you any details.
What engine have you got? If a GEMS V8, one is the feed to the pressure regulator on the fuel rail and the other is the return for excess fuel. I think the diesel is the same but don't know about the Thor as that doesn't have an external pressure regulator. The feed is the one with a filter in it if GEMS.
Yes, it is bloody expensive for what it is. You used to be able to buy Bowden cable by the foot from cycle shops so you could make one up but most of these have disappeared leaving the likes of Halfords.
When the catch wasn't engaging chances are the horseshoe shaped lever on the end of the cable from the interior handle has stuck at one end of it's travel. Now you have got it to latch, I suspect it is still stuck so won't open. If you open the window fully and peer down the side of it, you should be able to see the latch. If you can use something to poke down and get it to move, then the door will open normally.