The sense wire to the sub is the Grey/Black so that is the one you need to connect to 12V when the radio is switched on. Electric aerial output is usually Blue/Yellow from a head unit. Although I've got the users manual for your head unit on my laptop, I don't have the installation manual. That is at home and I'm quite a distance away at the moment.
leolito wrote:
fit crossovers as an option, but not knowing the specs of the original speakers, how to know which frequencies to cut at?
Anyone that has tried this solution and was successful?
As it is only a low and high 2 way crossover, it doesn't matter. The bass and mid range speakers are in parallel so get the same wideband input, so it is only the high frequencies for the tweeter that are separated. Tweeters typically work between 2 and 20kHz so you don't need to know the spec of the individual tweeters fitted and can use any cheap 2 way crossover. It is only when you start looking at 3 way crossovers that you need to know the frequency bands you want splitting between speakers.
The main point here is you need an unlocked BeCM and most aren't. They were locked at production of the car and unless someone has been in there before to change something that needs it to be unlocked first and left it that way, you can't change the key codes. The first time mine was connected to Testbook not long after I got it, they checked to see if it was locked or not but advised that there are times when an unlocked BeCM can cause problems. Maybe that is why your missus manages to immobilise it regularly?
BBS can translate a lockset barcode that you should be able to get from LR into the code that needs to be input if you email it to them.
No, that is the same unit my daughter has in her Toyota Celica. It has preouts but it also has speaker level outputs on the DIN connectors so you ignore the front and rear, left and right outputs.
Yes, the existing P38 sub has a built in amp, but you will need to connect the sense wire to the electric aerial output on the head unit to cause it to power up
You could run two subs or some subs want a stereo input (which is a bit pointless).
I'm a big fan of the Kenwood stuff, I've got a KDC-BT73DAB (previous version of the current KDC-BT760DAB except it has a better 3 line display) in mine and I can't fault it.
I'm always wary when someone decides they know better than the man that designed it in the first place. Agreed, there is a suitable place to fit a thermostat that is a throwback to the Classic engine but why did the designers decide not to fit it there and go for the remote one? I've monitored the temperatures on mine with the Nanocom and never seen it vary by more than 4 degrees C under any circumstances, including sitting (at length) in traffic with an ambient of 40 degrees.
It will probably be where the pollen filter housings are attached to the bulkhead or it gets in through the screwholes that hold the plenum cover on. the latter is fairly easy to sort as all you need do it take out the existing (rusty) screws, lift the panel slightly and squirt some silicone gloop under it where the screws go through and refit with new screws.
Marty supplied the original information, I've refined it a bit and written out the way to do it if you want to go with an aftermarket head unit. No need to take the door cards off as all wiring goes via the DSP amp location so it can all be done from there. See this thread here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/8-info-p38-alpine-dsp-amp-connections-and-wiring?page=1#pid30814
One in two. If you wash the windscreen while the lights are switched on, the headlamp wash/wipe operates on every other wash of the windscreen.
She'll have a hissy fit at you now.
I've just spent some time under the bonnet of mine as I'm setting off to drive 1,520 miles first thing in the morning. It isn't due a service yet (but will be by the time I get home) so it was just a check of the levels, a bit ore air in the tyres and a trip to the Romanian car wash in the next village. I always like to at least start the journey with it looking presentable, it rarely does when I get to my destination though.
The secret when wading is the speed you go through at. If you hit it at WRC speed, you will drown it, you drive at the speed where it creates a bow wave in front of you and follow that. Too slow and things start to fill up with water, too fast and it will drown.
Yes they are. With a stored voltage of 0.47 and an actual of 0.69, the ECU thinks you have opened the throttle slightly so will open up the idle air valve to raise the revs. It is supposed to learn the closed throttle voltage but it seems that it will only learn downwards so if the stored is higher than actual, it will change but not the other way round. On the Nano, on the next page (I think), you can actually type in the voltage you want.
If you can work out a way of dissolving the resin, there'll be a lot of people that could benefit. People have tried multiple different solvents, freezer spray, heat and nothing seems to work in getting it off without poking or levering at it which destroys the chip.
I've got one that I intend using the connector and casing and putting a pair of Class D amps and 4 crossovers in it to make a plug and play replacement. I've got all the bits, just never got around to putting it together.
When I did the off road course at Land Rover, they said midway up to the headlights was the limit, as soon as it came over the front of the bonnet, it was too deep. I wouldn't fancy trying it in mine but I did in a Discovery on what they referred to as the Jungle Track.
But a 2001 is a Thor not GEMS. As I mentioned in your other thread, the Thor always seems harder to get all the air out. I can't see it being the stat though as they are the same on Thor and GEMS. I've just had a look at a spare thermostat I have sitting here thinking that maybe an OE one has a hole and modern aftermarket don't, but no hole. In the old days a thermostat always had a hole with a 'jiggle pin' in it to allow air to bleed through and the pin was there to stop is getting clogged.
https://new.lrcat.com/#!/1234 or https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/land-rover-range-rover-1994-2001-parts/
I can't find it on either of them though. The only one that looks similar on the pictures is shown as the hose to the rear ducts. I can't see it being dual purpose but who knows?
Very odd. It almost sounds as though someone has been playing with the wiring and linked the two front latches for some reason. Any sign of any spurious wiring around the BeCM?
The problem would appear to be thermal as they will sometimes start to work but then stop again when the temperature changes. Most likely theory is that the processor chip (a surface mount device with tiny pins) is encapsulated in a big blob of resin which has a slightly different coefficient of expansion than the chip itself so they will shear off the PCB. Because of the resin you can't get to the pins to be able to do anything with them. So far, nobody has managed to find a way of getting the resin off without destroying the chip underneath it.
Leo is spot on, it's the contacts in the stalk. One other one that most don't know about is the setting for Intermittent wipers in the BeCM. Default is disabled but if you change it to enabled and you have the wipers on constant, they drop down to intermittent when stationary and start back up again when you reach 2mph.
What voltage have you got showing for closed throttle from the TPS. I suspected an intermittent problem with the TPS at closed throttle on a GEMS recently so I thought that I could enlarge the holes and turn it slightly to move the wiper a bit further up the track. That would increase the voltage but I figured that I could then reset the closed throttle voltage to the higher one and it should be fine. It wasn't, idle was high at around the same as you have. It seems that if the TPS idle voltage is higher than 0.9V, it will give high idle even if that is set as the idle voltage. Normal is between 0.6 and 0.8V
What brand was it so we can avoid them in the future?
The valves are there to stop water coming into the car if you are wading through deep water as they act as a (pretty crude) one way valve. So doing away with them is OK if you never into going through deep water. But the way the weather in different parts of the world is going, you may never know when you will find a flooded road......