They would but the pre-outs on the head unit are there to feed into an external amp which you don't have. One of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232575093087 should isolate the unbalanced sub output to the balanced input the sub amp expects to see.
Is there any slack on the lever? The fact that the lights shows correctly says that the gearbox and the XYZ switch are in sync and it is the lever that isn't. If you don't have any slack, then the cable needs to be adjusted.
Most likely the cable is stiff or needs adjustment. I've driven a number of cars where the gear shift is much stiffer than on both mine suggesting that a stiff cable isn't unknown. Does the light next to the gear lever show the position the lever is in or the gear you are in?
He's replacing the head unit and (dead) DSP amp so is using standard speaker level outputs from the head unit and linking the in and out at the DSP amp location via crossovers. So it is only the sub amp that expects to see a balanced input but is being fed with an unbalanced signal, hence the hum.
The bits at the sides rust but I've not seen one where the main bit across the back has rusted unless it's been used for launching a boat in salt water in the past. Try giving Phil (Holland&Holland on here) a call on 07803 582070. He's got a couple in for breaking at the moment.
Orange/Black and leave the Orange connected to the centre pin of the phono output of the head unit.
The sub output on the head unit is probably unbalanced meaning that it has a live side and a grounded side. The original output, and that which the sub amp expects to see, is balanced so neither are grounded they are a positive and negative output. You may find that disconnecting the ground at both ends, and only using the Orange wire will drop the level but will cure the hum.
Can't help you. I know some have done that mod but I don't do diseasel so can't give you any details.
What engine have you got? If a GEMS V8, one is the feed to the pressure regulator on the fuel rail and the other is the return for excess fuel. I think the diesel is the same but don't know about the Thor as that doesn't have an external pressure regulator. The feed is the one with a filter in it if GEMS.
Yes, it is bloody expensive for what it is. You used to be able to buy Bowden cable by the foot from cycle shops so you could make one up but most of these have disappeared leaving the likes of Halfords.
When the catch wasn't engaging chances are the horseshoe shaped lever on the end of the cable from the interior handle has stuck at one end of it's travel. Now you have got it to latch, I suspect it is still stuck so won't open. If you open the window fully and peer down the side of it, you should be able to see the latch. If you can use something to poke down and get it to move, then the door will open normally.
Hmm, sounds like a routine maintenance job will be whacking one of these in https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/169/category/36
Cheap enough to add one to my order next time I put in an order. I've already got a pair of those powering the heater blowers.
No, it is far simpler than I expected it to be. There's step by step instructions here https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/knowledge_base_articles/view/how-to-assemble-your-own-brakeline-266, all you need is a small screwdriver, a vice and an open ended spanner (13mm if I remember correctly).
Got back home after a 3,700 mile round trip on Saturday and the only thing of concern was one of the bulbs behind the message centre went out so I only had 2/3rds of it showing. After about 600 miles, it suddenly started working again so a clean of the contacts and a set of new bulbs was a job that I figured I needed to do in the not too distant future.
Until yesterday. Driving along quite normally and EAS Fault came up on the dash followed by the 35mph Max. Pulled into a layby to plug the Nano in and all it showed was Invalid Fault Code. Then it decided to drop to the bumpstops. Fortunately I had a pair of gloves in the boot as the compressor was too hot to touch so lifted that, disconnected the blue pipe and could easily hold my finger over the output. Fortunately, one of the things I carry in the boot for my long distance drives, is a spare EAS compressor (as my wheel well is full of LPG tank and the moulding that would have originally been home to the jack is missing, my spare parts live in there). So pulled that out, whacked it in and carried on the 20 odd miles home. Fortunately, I've got a spare rebuild kit on the bench so can rebuild the one that was on it and put that in the spares stack.
I don't see why not. That would do away with the short S shaped hard line that always rusts too. I needed to replace the flexis on another of my cars (not a P38) only to find they were no longer available. I bought a length of Goodrich braided hose and the correct end fittings from Merlin Motorsport (https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/goodridge-fluid-transfer/goodridge-600-series-brake-clutch-hose-fittings) and made a set up.
From the Nanocom BeCM documentation:
Lazy locking: Changes the situations in which lazy locking is allowed
That is under Diagnostics - Settings - Alarm. What the options are though I have no idea (without going outside into the current thunderstorm and having a look at mine, which I don't intend doing).
As long as you left the latch connected so you can still open it......
The main lock in the centre, the one that latches the upper tailgate to the lower.
There is a microswitch on the back of the latch which is closed circuit when the tailgate is open and open circuit when it is closed. It could be that it is worn and not operating or it has fallen off the latch. Take the carpet panel off the lower tailgate and you can get to the latch to check it.
Does it stay on even if you fully close the latch with a screwdriver?