Not only that but LEDs normally only need 3V but they are being supplied with 12V. Purpose made replacements will likely have current limiting resistors in series with them but just plain LEDs won't have. If you do manage to get them to work, they should still dim though as the panel light dimmer doesn't reduce the voltage as in old school motors but sends a PWM voltage to them.
It's a mod that I won't be doing as every one I have seen has nice bright panel lights which look really impressive but when I'm driving through the night on the continent, I dim mine right down. A Saab 900 I used to have had a very nice button to put the dash in Night Mode where it dimmed the speedo illumination right down and switched all the other dash lights off.
I think you'll find those LEDs from ABD are too big. They will fit the HEVAC but not in the switches, they really are tiny.
That set is only for the dash, not the switches. The three bulbs that illuminate the message centre have green covers over them, the others don't. The ones in the switches are tiny little things and completely different to the instrument panel bulbs. See the pic here https://www.lrdirect.com/stc1877-bulb-and-holder-switches-orange and https://www.lrdirect.com/stc1878-bulb-and-holder-switches-green?sfi=STC187_
You don't need a full dash out, just the centre console surround. Side panels off, screws either side of the radio (if you have the original radio, they are behind the fascia surround which just pulls off), drop the knee panel and remove the instrument cluster surround. That will show you the two screws on the right and one on the left and allow you to pull the whole surround forward. Switches can be unplugged and the switches pushed out from behind.
Tell tale for the rear fog light is Orange whereas the one for the front fogs and the backlighting is Green. Bulb part numbers are STC1877 for Orange, STC1878 for Green. For some unknown reason the green ones are 5 times the price of the orange one. LRDiect have both in stock. Can't help with LED equivalents though, for the time being it might be worth just putting a replacement bulb in the switch to get you through the test and do the LED conversion when it is a bit warmer.....
No need to disconnect the battery, just make sure you don't turn the ignition on while things are disconnected.
This, https://web.archive.org/web/20180509124955/http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/blendmotor.html is how to get to them.
No other wires will need to be connected. If you look at the diagram below, you'll see that only the brown and black wires are connected to the motors, the other 3 are for the feedback pot.
On the diagram
B=Brown
N=Black
W=White
RB=Red/Black
S=Grey
Dash out is not a fun way of spending a couple of days, it isn't difficult just very laborious. With a right angle screwdriver it is possible to get the blend motors out without cutting the duct (although you will need to if you are doing the heater core O rings). Don't try to drive the motors from the HEVAC with them not connected as that will also bring up a fault as they will travel further than normal.
Book symbol will go out if no faults are found. If the problem is the blend motors you can sometimes reset it by unplugging the blend motor plug, turning the ignition on for 10 seconds, then off again. Then plug back in and try ignition on again. It will go out but if the fault is still there will come back on after a few seconds when it tries to check them, or immediately if there is another fault detected. Odd that you can't hear them with the battery though.
If you take the instrument cluster out (4 screws, one at each corner), you can see the blend motors. Do NOT turn the ignition on with the cluster unplugged (that will give you an SRS fault) but it can be moved to one side so you can see the blend motors moving when you tell them to.
Chrisp38 wrote:
the rear wabcos are still good but I don't know how old they are
Probably the same age as the car.....
They are the same, irrespective of which side the steering wheel is on. The handle mechanism is the same, the handles are the same just the a RHD RH handle has the lock. There would be nothing to stop the owner of a LHD car fitting a RHD, RH handle to their passenger door. It would just have a lock in it that wouldn't do anything.
I must confess though, I bought both STC3063 and STC3064 from Land Rover (ordered them through my local dealer and picked them up the next day) just before everyone started saying the RH one was NLA so suspect I am the guilty party that got the last one..... However if enough people go on the JLR site and click the Notify Me button, they will re-manufacture them, that is how they are doing it. If there is demand they will make them (or buy them in from their sub-contractor that made them in the first place).
Up to you. If I've needed an ABS sensor I've always gone to my local dismantler (Avenger 4x4) and got a second hand genuine Wabco. He charges me £20 a time. If the Britpart really is OEM, then you wont go far wrong but I know some people have found aftermarket ones to not last long.
Yes, the cone makes sure it seats properly and doesn't go in lopsided. The O ring won't seal if it isn't flat into the hole.
The most likely cause is the cable is sticking and after you have opened the door it isn't returning fully. Whether the cable has been kinked so it binds but if you pull it all the way back and let it spring back, that is moving it enough to fully return. It isn't likely to be the latch or it would do the same if you open it from the outside handle. You need the door card off (again, hopefully you haven't fitted your new shedder yet) and then operate the interior handle few times while watching the horseshoe shaped lever that the cable is attached to and making sure that returns fully.
I don't think they are lead, more likely Mazak aka Monkey Metal.
It's been discontinued but it is only an IP67 rated, SPDT microswitch so as long as you get one the correct size, any old switch will do the job. RS and CPC have plenty to choose from.
The ones for a LHD car are no good to you. The passenger side, your driver's side, only has one microswitch so won't work in a P38. The LH one, driver's side on a LHD car would work in your passenger door though. RHD diver's ones are available at around half the price of a P38 latch from https://www.ukmgparts.com/product/mgf-mgf14-exterior-bodyshell-panels/door-lock-rh-mgf-tf-rhd-fqj102262pma. This one has the 6+1 plug used on a pre-99 car so the plug would need to be changed to the 8 way plug (with only 7 wires used) to fit a later car.
I bought a job lot of 13 for £120. Worked my way through some of them, one had a duff driver pack, one had NRVs that were completely shot but by cannibalising one I've got 2 rebuilt and tested ones at the moment. I bought some cheap pressure gauges and lengths of hose so can pressurise them from the dead, but now rebuilt, compressor that the seller chucked in with them, open each valve in turn with a gauge on each output and confirm it holds pressure. They seem to go for around £100-120 for rebuilt and fully tested ones but I've seen ones that are an unknown quantity for up to £80.
So that's 5 already, you'd best get him on to it.
and Thule roof bars. I've got a set of those that I put on if I need to carry a ladder, the rest of the time they stay off as they howl horribly at anything over 50mph.....
Very true, going from occasional contributor to part time employee almost. Not that it matters as the search function on this site works so people can still find it.
My experience with the TBH is that they will leak on the GEMS but all that is needed is a new gasket with a bit of Hylomar. I did mine about 5 years ago, didn't have a gasket so made one from gasket paper and it hasn't leaked since. However, just about every Thor I have looked at has had the tell tale crystalline deposits on it and on the rocker cover beneath it. Maybe they are more prone to leaking?
Yes you can. When you turn the ignition switch to position 3, it provides a ground to the BeCM. If the BeCM has received a valid unlock code, it allows that ground through to the starter relay. By linking the two pins it allows the ground to go directly, bypassing the BeCM, but it won't make any difference if the original wiring is left attached or not.