When I do them I don't lubricate anything. Some guides tell you to assemble it dry while others say to use Vaseline or Silicone grease. The problem with putting any lube in there is that any dust from the dryer (and there always will be some after a while) will stick to it and cause it to gum up much sooner than it would normally.
Do the check first to see which corner drops when left with the fuse out.
What happens when you double click rave-lr? Does it open a splash screen, a main menu screen with the different models it covers or just sit there and look at you?
Boberto wrote:
Thanks for your response to my private message earlier....somehow I've deleted it before reading it all 🤯
Not driven the car today so just gone out to it, on the bump stops, 20 seconds after starting it was up to standard profile. By morning it will be back to the bump stops.
Fortunately my reply is still in my Inbox, so a quick copy and paste:
If it is dropping when parked you may have a leak somewhere. Once the engine is turned off, 2 hours after it was switched off and then every 6 hours the EAS timer wakes up and it self levels. It does that by lowering the other 3 corners to match the height of the lowest. So if one corner has a leak it will drop, the timer will wake things up and lower the other 3 to the same height. Then the iffy one continues to drop so the other 3 are lowered again until it is sitting on the bumpstops. However, if the car is parked on an uneven surface so the suspension on one corner is compressed, it can see this as being low and lower the other corners.
The way to stop the self levelling is to pull the fuse that supplies the EAS ECU. This is fuse 44 on a GEMS car (up to 98) or fuse 29 on a later Thor car (99 onwards). Both these are in the underbonnet fusebox. Without the self levelling, if you have a leak on one corner, that corner will have dropped while the other 3 will stay up.
I think he is referring to the steel disc that sits inside the diaphragm, the one on the right here
Like this.....
That would suggest the diaphragm valve is leaking. Does it take longer than normal to fill the reservoir? When they split normally it doesn't build pressure as it all goes out the exhaust.
You can check to see if it is a pneumatic or electrical problem by pulling fuse 44 (pre-99) or fuse 29 (99 onwards) and seeing if it carries on dumping the air. If it does, it is the diaphragm valve, if it stops, you've got a weird electrical problem.
It doesn't matter, it's the same ECU for a 4.6 and a 4.0. You can change the engine size from 4.6 to 4.0 with a Nano.
Is it dumping all the air or is it just the normal self levelling when you switch off and get out of the car?
Not so sure. I fitted a 98 engine, complete with engine loom, into a 97 car. As the 97 and 98 use different O2 sensors the plugs were different so we left them disconnected thinking it would detect they weren't there and run a default fuelling strategy. Car fired up and ran normally but when taking it for a run, it adjusted the mixture so it got progressively weaker and weaker until it would no long run. The GEMS sensors are 5-0V Titania which give 0V when rich, so, thinking it was running very rich, it just kept leaning the mixture off. Rather than modify the looms, I made up 8 short lengths of cable with male and female connectors to connect them and it ran perfectly after that.
However, this was on a UK car intended to have the sensors so an Aus spec ECU may respond differently. Or, as long as you've got a Nano to use the security learn feature, fit the ECU from one of the cars without the sensors so it won't expect to see them.
There's 3 different ones for the V8 and 2 for the diesel. V8 are 94-97, 98 and 99 onwards while diesel are 94-98 and 99 on. According to Island 4x4 they have:
V8 94-97 in stock at £599.99
V8 99 onwards in stock at £999.99
Diesel 94-98 in stock at £599.99
Diesel 99 onwards in stock at £194.99
So for anyone with a late diesel, best buy one now and put it on the shelf until it will be needed. But everyone else will need deep pockets unless you happen to be, like me, with a 98 V8, there's a problem. I've got an iffy one I replaced 3 or 4 years ago, when they were only just over £100, that I think will be being pulled apart and refurbished and kept for the just in case moment.
It would be worth finding out what the differences are but ideally that needs someone with multiple ones to compare. Underbonnet wiring loom is different between a 97 and a 98 so there must be differences.....
No way Nigel. Your tapping was definitely valve gear, a cam follower or rocker arm. If it was the head gasket it would have blown completely years ago.
Mine is set for 55mph so goes off at 52, ideal for the never ending 50mph average speed camera zones as I don't have cruise control.
It did cause me a panic a few years ago. On our first drive to Latvia, halfway through Poland, Dina took over the driving so I could get some sleep. Within 10 minutes of dozing off, I was abruptly woken by the dreaded beep, beep, beep but by the time I looked there was no warning on the dash for a message of impending doom, so told Dina to pull in at a layby. Knowing that the cause of the beeps would be displayed when the engine was switched off, she switched it off but there was no message. Restarted the engine, no warning lights or fault messages and everything seemed fine so set off again only for the beeps to start again. This time I saw the warning saying Speed Limit. As I had never used it, it was set for the default 20mph and she had accidentally switched it on when she had been trying to wash the screen.....
I suspect the access problems would be the same doing the LH head on a LHD vehicle. Other than the bolts holding the heat shields in place being rusted solid and the heads corroded so much you can't get a grip on them, the steering column gets in the way making it even more awkward.
It is the passenger side, you can see the dipstick. I would agree. We've no way of knowing why the gasket failed but either bolts not torqued evenly or one 'soft' stretch bolt is all that would be needed. So there is nothing to say the other one will suffer in the same way. The steering column does get in the way but I've found that taking the wheelarch liner out and going in from the side means you've got a lot easier access to the heatshield bolts, that pesky rear exhaust manifold bolt and the steering column can stay in place.
Courtesy of Garvin I picked up his known good spare SRD100501 ECU today and have just got in after trying it in the car. I can now say it isn't the ECU as it made no difference at all. That just leaves it losing the speed signal at speed on one or more wheels so I now have an excuse to treat myself to a scope so I can look at the output from each wheel at higher speeds than the Nano will display them. One halfshaft with the reluctor ring has been replaced already (LH rear), I'm still slightly suspicious of the RH front, I've had a look at the RH rear and that looked fine but no idea about the LH front. That may be in the same state as the other front one.
It did pass the MoT by the way as the tester used the decelerometer at 15mph and the brakes are fine at that speed, the problem only occurs at higher speeds.
I'd go for the cheaper pipe and slobber it in Hammerite paint (or just give the one you have a good wire brushing and slobber it in Hammerite). Where was the gasket blowing? Out the side or into the Vee? Into the Vee can usually be confirmed by the noise increasing if the oil filler cap is removed, out the side can often bee seen as flames coming out of the joint. However, this can only be seen from underneath and the joint will be concealed from view by the exhaust manifold, hence the original (wrong) diagnosis.
Yes. With the driver pack connected to the valve block, go to the connector that would connect to the outside world (C152). See the following diagram but bear in mind this is the loom side and not the plug side so it is mirror image.
Easy enough to follow as the two pins for ground (10 and 11) re black and the two for power (12 and 13) are red. Put power and ground onto those two pairs (a standard spade terminal will go over both pins) and then you can apply power to the pin for the each valve. If you hear the valve go click, it is working, if it doesn't, that channel is dead.
It a Wabco thing, the ECU stops communicating over 5mph.
Anyway, I've spent today on the car and thought I was going to declare Bolt the winner. But not.....
It needs an MoT and one thing I had noticed was that the RH front axle oil seal was leaking. Not a specific MoT fail I don't think, but I know the tester wouldn't be impressed so, ignoring the ABS for the time being, I set about changing that, It was pretty obvious that the hub had been out before and the dust shield around the ABS ring had been slotted rather than just having a hole so the ABS sensor doesn't need to be removed. Got the hub out and turning the hub it felt a bit like a worn bearing but didn't, if you know what I mean. I realised it was the ABS ring rubbing on something and then noticed this
a dent in the dust shield. Had a closer look at the ring and noticed some teeth had bits of rust on them
While others had almost merged into one with general crud
So, could it be that due to this the signal from the sensor was getting corrupted at higher speeds resulting in brakes that worked perfectly at low speed but the ABS was kicking in at higher speeds? Cleaned it all out and carried on with the job I had started. As I had suspicions about the brake light switch, I'd got a new, genuine one of those just to rule it out so fitted that too. Once all back together I took it for a test run.
ABS light goes out at 5 mph, no faults shown on the dash so apply the brakes at about 15mph, perfect. Go a bit faster and applying the brakes at 25mph, the ABS can be heard and felt operating just as before. As another test, as the RH rear sensor was such a nice fit I could pull it out with my fingers, I managed to get my arm down behind the wheel and pulled the sensor out. As soon as I started moving the dash beeped and came up with ABS Fault and Traction Failure, as you would expect when it doesn't see normal rotation on all 4 wheels. Drove off down the road, tried the brakes at 25mph and the ABS kicked in just as before. But, with a detected ABS fault, the ABS would normally be turned off? Shoved the RH rear sensor back in, drove a little further to confirm that everything was now back to normal and the fault message was no longer there. Then opened the bonnet and pulled fuse 38 that feeds the ABS ECU. Started up and got an immediate ABS Fault on the dash, drove off and applied the brakes at 25mph, perfect at 40mph, perfect and at 50mph still perfect.
This now all seems to point towards the ECU applying the ABS when it doesn't, and shouldn't, need to. It shouldn't do anything when it has detected a fault (or at least the earlier Wabco C doesn't, my other half used the Ascot with one duff wheel sensor, a dash full of warning lights and brakes that worked perfectly for 3 months last year) but it is doing. However, when I called my local tame dismantler (Avenger 4x4), the response when I asked if he had SRD100500 or 501 on the shelf, his reply was simply, rocking horse manure.....
There's a couple on eBay at the moment but not cheap and although the owner wants it sorting and is quite happy to pay £200 for an ECU, I'm not one to just throw bits at a car and hope they fix it, I want to know it will fix it first. However, I should have the opportunity to borrow one next week so will know once and for all.
As for the MoT, it's booked in tomorrow morning. As the brake test will be done at low speed with the deccelerometer, I'm hoping the tester doesn't go fast enough to notice.....
Thanks, didn't realise you were on here too Lefty.
Up to £1126 at the moment so has gone beyond the original target of a grand. Still got just under two months to go before the jump date of 22 April so no idea what it will get up to by then.
Exactly what I saw on both the inlet and outlet valves. That would make sense when the brakes aren't applied but I would have expected them to change when the brake pedal is pressed. Nanocom document says:
• Inlet valve: This shows the voltage being applied to this valve by the ABS ECU. When driven the
voltage should be around 2.8 to 3.6 Volts and when not being driven should be around 0 to 0.5 Volts.
• Outlet valve: This shows the voltage being applied to this valve by the ABS ECU. When driven the
voltage should be around 2.8 to 3.6 Volts and when not being driven should be around 0 to 0.5 Volts.
and I'm assuming the valves will be driven when the brakes are applied......