Doubtful that it is a head gasket, the only time they cause an oil leak is when it dribbles out the outside and runs down the side of the block. Coolant from a head gasket leak will get into one of the cylinders. Waterways are only by the front and rear cylinders so the first place to look would be to see what state the spark plugs are in. Any looking steam cleaned compared with the others, could be the sign of a leak.
Both fluids have to be going somewhere. A slight coolant leak may not be visible if it evaporates from engine heat but may be seen as slight crystallisation of the anti freeze (or pink stains if you have OAT in it). That amount of oil must be going somewhere. How about at the bellhousing in case it is the rear main seal?
Yes, the socket, ideally 1/4" drive, is essential. First time I wanted to take the rocker covers off, went into my local toolstation and told the guy I needed a 12 point, 8mm socket. He went away and came back with a 13mm one saying it should be close enough......
I've got odd bits and pieces that may come in useful one day, but how come you had a collar if you've never taken a lock out before?
If you can see the end of the rod, you should be able to get something (thin screwdriver, length of thick wire or, ideally, a very thin pair of long nosed pliers or a strong pair of tweezers) in through the hole and move it. Having just checked a door latch that I have on the bench, it appears that it needs to be pushed down to unlock (which will also lift the sill locking button).
When it was first introduced as the T Charge, any import was exempt as there are no emissions data on the V5. When it became ULEZ, they went the other way so no information meant you had to pay it unless you could convince them otherwise.
The only time it will lock you out is if you have suffered dancing locks for ages and ignored it. To do it, it has to lock itself without you doing anything, so that is the only time it will happen.
I thought ULEZ stood for Ultra Low Emission Zone, not additional income because we can zone? It is purely a revenue raising scheme that has nothing to do with cleaner air at all. As you say, pay the fee and drive around generating as much pollution as you want. What I always found even more of a con was parking. Before I retired I would drive into Central London 2 or 3 times a week in a 15 plate Renault Kangoo van with a 1.5 litre diesel engine. The 15 plate Kangoo was Euro 4 so I, or more precisely my employers, had to pay the charges (as I would usually cop for the Congestion Charge too) to drive into the zone but some local authorities charged me extra when I parked as my vehicle used diesel fuel. So I get charged to drive in and generate pollution but then get charged extra to stop using it and generate no pollution at all. How does that work?
Compare it with the French and German systems. You buy a sticker to put in the windscreen of your car that denotes the emissions class. A one off fee valid for the life of the vehicle, €4.20 for France and €6.00 for Germany. If you have no sticker, you can't drive into the city centre zones, at times of high levels of air pollution only the lesser polluting vehicles can drive into the zones and the rest of the time you can. That doesn't generate an income, it improves the air quality which, as far as I am concerned, is the aim. And they class a petrol car running on LPG or LNG the same as a hybrid, only one class down from a full EV.
Some are smooth while others are textured. The painted ones are usually smooth while the textured ones are left plain. The Ascot is an early car (TA VIN) while mine is a 98 (WA VIN) and there doesn't appear to be any difference, neither have cut-outs for the exhausts.
You've obviously done your research but as far as I can see the only difference is whether they are in primer or plain. What do you mean by the others having more cut-outs?
BeCM SID is here https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bYljTTLbcRvp6wLJ-3qxhWPEhr4agC-G/view?usp=share_link, page 9 onwards gives a list of everything that will wake the BeCM and gives a step by step diagnosis to battery drain.
Sounds like it could be an iffy height sensor then. Sometimes it works, other times it sits on a dead spot on the track and gives an out of range reading. As you say though, it isn't the sort of weather to be outside checking stuff for the sake of it.
I just saw dimensions on that Amazon listing and didn't look at what they were, sorry. I'll be honest and say that I wasn't even aware there were O rings on the fuel filter. I have a fuel filter that I bought to fit on my car many years ago and have never bothered. There may even be O rings in the box with it but I doubt it. Mine runs on petrol so rarely and I've seen so many people saying how difficult it is to undo the unions it isn't something I have felt like doing only to end up with a 30 minute job becoming an all day job. The pipes are 8mm outside diameter so the O rings are going to be around that sort of size.
Not necessarily spurious but they could be historic. Unless they have been cleared in the past after an event, they will stay logged. When checking the heights, watch the readings as the car is moving from one height to another, they should move smoothly with no sudden jumps.
Good point. I noticed yesterday that the Ascot has dropped almost down to Access height after being left for a couple of weeks, when it would normally stay at Standard height for at least 6 weeks. It is down to -2 C at the moment though......
Height sensor faults may be historic as normally an out of range height sensor error will bring up the EAS Fault message on the dash. It sounds like you are losing pressure from the reservoir so it takes a while to fill that before it rises. Check the readings from the height sensors at each height and see if they look right.
Lilac hose is the one to the reservoir, so the compressor will have been running permanently trying to fill it before it will rise.
On the one I fitted it was pressed in but wasn't a tight fit so could be rotated by hand. It was a Britpart though.....
It looks to me like the posts have been made and then subsequently edited silently to add the hidden links. Whether by him or by somebody else using his log in there doesn't appear to be any way of telling. I would be able to do it on RR.net but I have admin status on there so maybe it could be done on here but beyond my pay grade (if there was a pay grade....).
I changed a front hub on a friends car but it was about 4 years ago now. If I remember right, the 'tube' with the hole in it for the sensor could be rotated to make sure it lined up properly. So not a problem with the hub but an installation error......