Petrol is the same. With the coolant reservoir moved away and a bit of sqidging of the insulation it's a bit fiddly but can be done.

No, just the interior handle surround out, the switch just pulls out once that is off.

Simpler than the switchpack switches. You'll find that taking it out and squirting contact cleaner into it could be all it needs.

Have you got any diagnostics? If you have, what temperature is it running at? GEMS tend to run in the mid 80s C while Thor run a little hotter around 92-95C.

It was only a wild guess and it may well have been something else that you have disturbed but, if it is now working fine, that's good. I'd run it around for a bit before deciding you've fixed it though.

BECM - Diagnostics - Inputs - Mirrors Windows, three or four screens in you can see the status of the switches, so you can try the switch and see if the status changes. Then in BECM - Diagnostics - Outputs - Windows/Sunroof where you can operate each from the Nano.

To confirm it is the switch pack first and not the window motor itself. You should be able to operate the window with the Nanocom so confirm it does actually work.

That is what I normally do. the only time those hoses need to come off is when you intend replacing them, so I just slit them lengthwise with a Stanley knife and peel them off. To fit the new ones, a smear of silicone grease makes them slide on easily.

Yes, he's a full time LPG installer (although does spend a lot of his time putting right other people's installs).

Simon, LPGC on here (and on www.lpgforum.co.uk) is just off the A1 near Doncaster. He will no doubt see this and reply shortly. Sounds as if you have correctly identified the problem and it may be due to a bodged attempt at rebuilding the reducers (or they are simply knackered). There will no doubt be a single reducer that Simon will recommend. Are we talking GEMS (pre-99) or Thor (99 onwards) motor?

If you actually look how it seals, the clamp doesn't clamp the pipes to the heater core, it allows movement that is taken up by the flexibility of the O rings. It's a flexible joint of sorts, admittedly one without much movement, but it can flex a little. The screw only needs to be done up tight enough to hold it in place, doing it up too tight is likely to crack the matrix and then it never will seal. The flexibility is why I always use genuine O rings too, you've no clue how long generic O rings will last before going hard.

I replaced the O rings when I first got my car nearly 13 years ago and they are still fine. I will only ever use genuine LR O rings, at £3 each it isn't worth saving a few pence on aftermarket, but getting them seated properly is the most important part of the job. Getting them in place and then giving the pipes a wiggle to make sure they have seated fully before doing the screw up fully. What causes them to leak, other than old age, is heaving on the pipes where they go through the bulkhead if you are trying to get the underbonnet hoses off.

Easier said than done. To get the cats and downpipes out, you need to take the gearbox crossmember off.....

Wait until you have the new exhaust fitted and you will be able to look at the lambda on the Nanocom. If you check it now and make a note of the readings, then check again after the exhaust leaks are no longer there.

Stilsons.....

p73990 wrote:

Has my exhaust been changed to the 5.0L? On the JLR site it does not show that for the 4.2L exhaust

Looks like it might have been. The 4.2 SC L322 appears to be the same as that on the Sport. https://new.lrcat.com/#!/12119/94841/99132/7893

Sorry, that is for the SC Sport, it is a short stub pipe on the FFRR. See https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/lr011092-pipe-exhaust.html

Ridiculous price but can be got cheaper https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/lr011092-exhaust-stub-pipe-turbos-to-downpipes-5-0l-v8-petrol.html. Still bloody expensive for a bit of tube with a flange on each end and a boss in the middle.....

Ally = Aluminium, Jubilee Clip = screw clamp.

It looks like yours have already been modified, hence the need to weld the O2 sensor bosses in. Parts list shows the sensor bosses in the inlet pipe to the cats not as a separate part.

Do you have anything like Gun Gum (https://www.holtsauto.com/holts/products/gun-gum-paste/) available in Canada? Grind or wire brush the loose stuff off the dodgy welds, then a dollop of paste would seal the holes. As long as you don't expect it to give any mechanical strength (as some do), it works really well.

You've only got upstream sensors anyway, only US spec cars have downstream as well. I would suspect that once the holes in the exhaust are fixed, the emissions will come down too. My daughter's Toyota failed on emissions and blowing exhaust, once the exhaust was fixed the emissions also came down.

I fitted the Allmakes one (https://www.lrdirect.com/stc3261-heater-matrix-new-rr) to a clients car and it appeared to be OEM from the markings moulded into it. But it isn't something that Britpart will have had made for them so I suspect it comes from the same factory just via Britpart and it does have a 2 year warranty. Not so good on a RHD car where the dash or steering column has to come out to change it but a fairly simple swap for you if it does fail.