Mine unscrewed from the rocker cover two or three years ago but on the GEMS it isn't as tall and is on the other side (LH rocker cover). Initially I cleaned up the end of the thread so I could get it started in the rocker cover without cross threading and found that a pair of pliers would fit against the two internal lugs so I could screw it down tight. Next time I took the oil filler cap off the whole thing unscrewed again. This time I degreased the threads on both parts with a squirt of brake cleaner, put Loctite 2700 on the thread and screwed it down again. It hasn't moved since.....

and if anyone that is interested wants to add Thor or diesel licences to it, there appears to be a loophole in buying a new licence. As BBS are based in an EU country but we aren't, it is charged less VAT as it is classed as being supplied outside the EU and payment of the VAT would happen when the goods arrive in the UK. Only thing is, there are no goods to send, the licence is uploaded to your personal account on the BBS website and confirmation of the order is sent by email.

At last, an advantage to Brexit, the only one I have found so far!

Agreed. My UT210E is primarily used to check current draw if anyone has a battery drain problem and, as it reads low current levels well, is ideal for that. No idea how accurate it is but if it shows 100mA draw with everything off, even if it is actually 120mA or 80mA, you still know there is a problem. I've also used the NCV feature to check for buried mains cables before drilling holes in walls too.

13.5V is fine and it is the gearbox ECU that gets offended with low voltage, so unless you are getting gearbox fault on the dash, it isn't low voltage. ABS ECU will disconnect once you go over a certain speed so that is normal, you need to reboot and start again to get it to reconnect. If at any time you have had an ABS fault come up on the dash, you will always get a Traction Failure when you switch off. It sounds like you have an intermittent fault rather than something always there like a duff sensor.

Yes, a small gap is normal. You need to worry when there is no gap as that means the torque converter isn't fully home onto the gearbox oil pump.

The only connection from the ABS system that goes through the footwell connector, is the feed to the OBD socket. The fact that you can connect to the ABS with diagnostics means that is OK. 99 and 2000 use the same Wabco D system so bits would be interchangeable.

If you can get the sensors out without breaking them, check the reluctor wheel to make sure none of them are gunked up with anything. If a couple of the grooves are full of muck, that will cause a lower than actual reading.

Yes, you've got a problem. They should all be identical, especially the wheel speeds.

Chasman wrote:

Just tried ordering, wouldn't arrived for a month. Cancelled.

That's odd, when I look at it, it shows Prime next day delivery is available.

You made me curious too, so in the interests of science, or what a work colleague of mine used to refer to as buffoonery, I've just been outside to check. Stuck my clamp meter on the highest range, 100A DC in my case with the UT210E, and put it on the starter cable. Jumpered the starter relay with the ignition off and as soon as the starter kicked in it read OL so more than 100A but once spinning the engine over, it displayed 92A DC. So it seems the initial surge to get it spinning is over 100A, but I suspect less than 200, and under 100 once it is turning. As my 1000A clamp meter is of hardly any use to me (I found it in my fathers garage when we were clearing it out after he passed away), it isn't at home so can't see what that would show.

I've got one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/UT210E-Current-Meters-Capacitance-Tester/dp/B00O1Q2HOQ?th=1 which isn't autoranging but that makes it better for measuring a very low current drain like you are looking for. You can't blow it up, or at least I haven't been able to yet, and if you've got it set on the 2A scale and more than that is being drawn, it just shows it as an error. To closer meet your spec you'd be better looking at this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/UNI-T-UT210D-Digital-Current-Capacitance/dp/B0753FY711/ref=sr_1_2? but you may find it isn't as good at very low levels. I've also got a 1000A autoranging clamp meter but that doesn't register anything at all until there's at least 10A flowing.

I know what you mean, Fluke do a beautiful graphical meter that is virtually a handheld oscilloscope but the price of one of those is eye watering!

I couldn't find a system that included a stainless centre box other than the very expensive ones, so that is an Allmakes mild steel job. That comes with M8 bolts welded to the clamps but no nuts or washers. On my previous one I'd ground the weld off to remove those and used stainless M10 bolts, nuts and washers so I didn't have to get the angle grinder out to remove the old one (as I've always had to do in the past with the M8 mild steel bolts they come with). I'd already ordered the centre box (£60) before I found the stainless system and decided to go with that too, so I've spent £350 in total. My rubbers were all good so them not being supplied wasn't a problem so all I had to find was some washers and M8 nuts. (of which I have plenty).

I must admit that's the first time I've seen quad pipes where you haven't had to hack lumps out of the bottom of the bumper.

Marshall8hp wrote:

Well done! Was this a twin to start with? These seem to have fitted up nicely.

Yes, it's always had twin pipes but after replacing the original Land Rover ones with aftermarket at least twice now, I figured the extra on stainless was going to be worth it.

Today I've changed my exhaust system. A couple of weeks ago I went to the car, started it and realised I'd left something inside so went back for it leaving the car idling. As I came back to it thought it sounded like I had an exhaust leak. A quick check showed the outlet pipe on the middle silencer box had pulled out by about half an inch. Inside the car you couldn't hear it but figured I should do something about it. This was the Saturday before going to France on the Tuesday so figured I needed to do something a bit quick. EuroCarParts used to do a Klarius centre box but shown as out of stock in all the branches near me and while I could have had it delivered, wouldn't have got the 45% discount on their current deal so it would have been £120. So I bodged it. It seems that the brackets and mounts for the silencer boxes were pulling the whole system towards the back of the car so it was under constant tension, hence pulling the outlet pipe out of the middle silencer box. A piece of steel plate and some tekscrews to hold the two parts rigid and a big dollop of GunGum to seal it. Didn't expect it to last long but at least it wouldn't get any worse.

Ordered a silencer box, expecting it to arrive while I was away, then started thinking about the rest of it. The rest of the system didn't look too bad but wouldn't last forever. Getting 50-75k miles out of an aftermarket exhaust at around £250 isn't that bad for most people but that's only 2 or 3 years for me. What I really needed was a stainless system that I could fit and forget. eBay showed a few well dodgy looking secondhand ones and new systems at £600+ were a bit pricey. Plus all of them seemed to come with the big horizontal pipes which I think look ridiculous, although not a ridiculous as the quad pipe outlets (it's a Range Rover, not a bloody Ferrari!). Then I found this https://www.gravityperformance.co.uk/product/exhaust/cat-back-exhaust-system-range-rover-p38-mk2-v8-td-94-02/. Discrete tailpipes just like the original, lifetime warranty and the price includes VAT and shipping. It also doesn't have the Tee connection where the pipe splits to the two sides that I've always thought can't do anything for gasflow. So I ordered one and have been out there fitting it today.

I suspect my aftermarket downpipes and Y piece section is about half an inch shorter that it should be as the centre box was under tension until I adjusted the brackets with a club hammer. However, that then meant that the connection at the back of the centre box was still slightly too far forward but it all went on reasonably smoothly. I may slice the inlet pipe to the centre box and put a sleeve joint in it to make up the extra half inch. that way there will be no tension in the system at all. Being in 3 pieces the shiny stainless bit was easier to fit than normal where it comes in two parts. It also means that the two pipes can be set at the same height. The very heavy duty clips that came with the system are only just small enough to clamp the pipes together securely but a smear of exhaust assembly paste before bolting them up, means the joins are gas tight. So for the final test, what does it sound like? At idle it has a bit more of a burble to it, driving it and there is no drone which I was dreading (and would have caused me to be offering it for sale to anyone that wanted it) but it does sound a bit louder when floored in Sport so I'm happy. It'll look standard once I get it a bit dirty too but at the moment there's just two shiny tailpipes showing.

Just checked the ones I bought from Island recently and they are marked 2035, so week 35, 2020. If yours are marked 2016, that is week 16 2020, not year 2016.
leolito wrote:

Maybe we will all move to normal springs after supplies run out, and live happily ever-after :-))))

Now go wash your mouth out with soap and water.....

Yes. If you open the sunshade and tilt the sunroof up, you will see a plastic cover on either side, this slides out towards the back of the car (it's on keyhole shaped holes with pins in them). This will expose the two Torx screws and a couple of small C clips, remove those and lift the glass out. To get the sunshade out, RAVE says to open the sunroof and remove the wind deflector before taking the glass out (but I don't remember doing that the last time I took one out). Once the glass is out and the wind deflector off, undo the two screws on one side that hold the runners in place, this will allow it to be moved slightly and allow the panel to come out although a bit of brute force will do it just the same.

No matter what material you use, if it is wrapped around the edges of the panel the spring things aren't needed.

You have. They look like plugs that have been taken from an engine that has been started and run for a short time a number of times so they are sooty rather than oily. I wouldn't worry about them too much, at least it shows that all cylinders have been firing...

The fan on the diesel is different as each blade is separate so highly unlikely it would fail in the same way. This is the petrol one https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/cooling-4046-err4960g-p-3432.html and I suspect before one lets go a number of the blades will have cracked at the hub.