It's usually the very thin ones that go around the plunger spindle that leak. The last couple of valve blocks I've done I've not split the solenoid and left the originals in place. I bought a batch of 12 used valve blocks a while ago and have been slowly working through them. The first 3 or 4 I used the X8R seals and had the odd leak, but the last couple I've used the Landyair ones although I haven't changed the thin ones at all on them.
Tried taking the wind deflector off and it seems to have made a difference but not really had enough rain to confirm. Although it has only been on there for about 5 months, the drivers wiper blade looks like it might need replacing anyway so I'll get a new Bosch one and not fit the wind deflector.
This https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/fhm100320lnf-bin-facia-console-stowage.html is the one you need if you are fitting the storage box into a car that originally had the sat nav. The long panel with the grille in it for the cabin temperature sensor is separate to the box.
Yes it does.
Blanco wrote:
On the Nanocom front mine didn't seem to be able to connect with any of the ecu's is that a common problem?
Only when the fuse has blown (fuse 33) or you have a water leak and the OBD socket (or the multiway connector behind the RH kick panel) has rotted out. Different ECUs use different pins in the socket which explains why sometimes you get one pin that isn't through so some systems will connect but not others.
They are ripping you off, https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/asr1940-remote-unit-key.html (although now shown as out of stock) but most people have been charged around £250-280. Is that another source of the non-flip keys that the guy in Wales supplies?
Land Rover for a good quality one, part number YWC000300. If in the UK (or virtually anywhere except the US) they can supply you with a spare keyfob too. Alternatively, your local Timsons will be able to cut you a blade (tell them it is a BMW blank) that you can use.
99% of cruise control problems are down to splits in the vacuum pipes. Easy check is to pull the pipe off the Tee and see if you can blow down it. If you can, that's why the cruise doesn't work.
That makes things much easier.....
It isn't normal duct tape but some pretty hefty stuff that LR obviously use for the purpose. You could probably use Gorilla tape or something like that.
As my car was originally supplied to Greater Manchester Police, the ducts to feed the rear vents were not fitted (as probably the only thing kept in the back on a Motorway patrol car would have been cones and the like). The ends where they would have connected to the main duct were just blanked off with some industrial strength duct tape.
Exercising the blend motors is a good idea but ensure the plug is disconnected from the HEVAC. I've blown a HEVAC up by putting volts into it doing exactly as you did.
How to post pictures https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1021-inserting-an-image-from-imgur
Buying and selling https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1983-the-place-for-sales-swaps-wants-offers-gifts-and-giveaways
If I remember right, Marty put your original EKA back in as it was just one digit out. Supplies or new fobs dried up long ago for US spec cars but not for Rest of World ones so you can still buy new.
If the car was locked when left, then you will need something from the fob to unlock it or a Nanocom to input the EKA. If it wasn't locked when left, you should be OK.
A few people have added them as, surprisingly enough, the wiring is there but as far as I know they never offered them as an option on the diesel.
That's probably it as on the V8 the engine oil cooler and transmission cooler are sandwiched between front of the radiator and behind the AC condenser, whereas that space is taken up by the intercooler on the diesel. Hence the oil cooler being in the base of the radiator and the transmission cooler being where the nearside foglight should be.
Harv wrote:
Out of curiosity, would Nanocom’s wheel location confusion also apply to my Disco 2, or is this specifically an issue for the P38.
Don't know but an easy way to check would be to unplug one sensor and see if it reports a fault on the correct one.
Nano also doesn't know its left from its right on the blend motors on one screen but is correct on another. I can't remember where it is wrong though.
To fit the 4HP24 you'd need to mix and match the torque converter and bellhousing, Ashcrofts would be able to advise you which bits you'd need to use. The rest of the gearbox is the same, just with stronger internals, so you shouldn't need to modify anything. I've got a 4.0 litre V8 with the same 4HP22 as you have and regularly tow 3.5 tonne trailers and never had a problem (despite my gearbox being the original with 450,000 miles on it). What problems did you have in the past?
I doubt you could easily fit a V8 radiator as the diesel one incorporates the gearbox oil cooler while the V8 has a separate one.
With the compressor unplugged, the wire colours are different. It's have a Green, an Orange and a Black. Put positive 12V from a battery on the Green and negative to the Black. Use a battery rather than a power supply as it draws about 10A with no load and can trip out my 15A bench supply with a finger over the output when checking for pressure.
As said, if the thermal switch is dead, a jumper wire between Orange and Black (on either the compressor or wiring loom side of the plug) will fool the ECU into thinking it is good but if you have continuity between the two wires (with the compressor unplugged), it is fine.
The bit you don't recognise is the lock for the glovebox. That will do the job if you can get the ignition barrel out as normally it needs the key in to remove it although brute force would probably do it. If you wanted to be able to use a fob, you'd need the fob, the BeCM and the instrument cluster if you don't want to screw up your mileage on the odo.
The seller of that lockset is Phil, a member on here (username Holland-and-Holland), try dropping him an email and telling him about your problem as he doesn't come on here regularly these days.
Thanks, I'll try taking the wind deflector off initially which may well be the answer as the passenger wiper, with the wind deflector, doesn't judder. Not sure how clean the screen will be after wiping it with brake fluid.....
Got home just under 2 hours ago. Trip computer says 2,712 miles at an average speed of 49 mph. That works out to 55 hours, 21 minutes driving time between 04:30 on Sunday and today. When you take into consideration that I spent a total 18 hours on ferries and a further 18 hours waiting for ferries (was booked on a 15:10 ferry from Rostock but got there early enough to get on the 07:30 which was fully booked so had to wait), that's 91 and a half hours accounted for out of the 129 hours I've been away.
However, other than using about half a litre of oil (and the juddering wipers), the P38 performed faultlessly as usual but I do foresee a gearbox out to change the rear oil seal coming up......
Upgraded radiator (https://www.direnza.co.uk/product/cooling/radiators/range-rover-p38-2-5-td-94-99-aluminium-performance-radiator/) and ensure the water pump is good and has a metal not plastic impeller.
The diesel gearbox is the ZF 4HP22 and is also used in the 4.0 litre petrol but the 4.6 petrol uses the stronger 4HP24. A member on here, dave3d, has put a 4HP24 into his diesel so can probably offer some advice.