You lot have made me paranoid now. I'm setting off to drive the 1,600 miles home tomorrow and I've just been outside to examine my fan. No sign of any cracks fortunately. Not sure what I would have done if I'd found any though, try to find a 36mm fan spanner, take it off and hope I didn't encounter any traffic I assume.

By the way, I'm not up at stupid o'clock, I'm 2 hours ahead of the UK at the moment.

A sat nav will usually get its time data from the satellites the same as it gets its location. Some, or at least my Garmin does (and the marine versions do too), have a backup battery so it remembers where it was when last switched off in the assumption it will be in the same place when switched back on to make the startup quicker. So maybe it does, who knows?

The problem you are going to have is that V8 Discos are almost in the hens teeth category, nearly all of them were TD5s. All listings on eBay are in the US although JLR show it as in stock, but not at that price https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/nnn100460-electronic-control-unit-engine.html

According to LRCat, NNN100460 is Disco2 while the P38 ECU is NNN100660 so it definitely looks like what is in the box isn't what was originally in it or it is a P38 one that has been seriously frigged about with so it will run a Disco2 (or it did until it caught fire). I think you've found the cause of your misfire though.

Yes, my headlight flash works but that is only while the stalk is pulled, you can't change to main beam. If the headlight switch is on, they stay on just the same as if DRL wasn't enabled, sorry.

I've also discovered something I wasn't aware of. East and North of Poland it is a legal requirement to have lights on all the time and not just when it is dark. From past experience that means I either forget to switch them off when getting out of the car or switch them on when I start driving. I remembered there is a Daylight Running Light option in the BeCM so whipped out the Nanocom at one of my many fuel stops and went into it. Option are Disabled, Sidelights only or Sidelights and Dipped headlights so I went for the latter. Sure enough the headlights come on as soon as the engine is running and go off as soon as it is switched off. But it is only the headlights, no dash lights (so no green tell-tale on the dash), fog lights won't come on if you poke the button and other than flashing the lights, the dipswitch doesn't do anything so you can't put main beam on. Damn clever this BeCM thing.....

Shellac would be the top choice except the wood on an H&H is a natural wood, matt finish, not gloss like that on ordinary cars so isn't appropriate. I would suggest either teak or, preferably, linseed oil, that's what is used on gun stocks and it is the same wood in an H&H.

Opened the bonnet and checked the coolant and oil levels (neither of which had moved). However, that was today but prior to that it all started on Sunday afternoon. Hitched up a fully loaded Erde 122 trailer, Dina and two dogs and headed for Dover. Across on the ferry to Calais then drove to a place called Lelystad in the north of the Netherlands to pick up Dina's daughter. After an hour then set off in an easterly direction arriving at our hotel in Warsaw around teatime. So that was Sunday and Monday. Tuesday morning we left Warsaw and travelled north to Dina's parents on the coast in Latvia arriving here about 9 last night. So, that's around 1,600 miles and the trip computer is showing an average speed of 60mph even though I'd only been cruising at 70-75 all the way, although did stop to fill up with LPG 8 times......

When I fitted mine, I didn't modify the shroud at all. The original radiator had the two flat bits for the shroud to be clipped to and I just clipped the new one to the bits welded to the Direnza. Only difference is that the original radiator had grooves for the shroud to fit against whereas the alloy doesn't so the shroud slipped down a couple of mm.

My replacement gearbox from Dave came complete with the Torque converter.....

If the original engine is going to get a full rebuild, top hats, ground crank, new big ends and mains, etc, then no matter what the cause of the low oil pressure problem it is going to be sorted anyway. As long as it is done properly, and everything is carefully checked, then I don't see it being a risk at all.

4HP24 from the 4.6 is longer by about 15mm but the tailshaft housing is 15mm shorter so the overall length is the same if you are using your original torque converter. To replace the original 4.0 litre 4HP22 with a 4HP24 from a 4.6 I had to change a spacer behind the flex plate for a thinner one to allow for the larger torque converter but that was all. No idea on the diesel as it only has a 3 bolt flex plate and not the 4 bolt on the V8 versions. I know Dave has quite a number of 4HP24 gearboxes all sitting on pallets but he tends to not keep the 22s as he will always fit a 24 to a V8 if it needs a gearbox. However, I got a 4HP22 from a diesel from him a few weeks ago that I took to an owner in Spain. Give him a call and he will be able to tell you exactly what bits you will need to change and what you can retain.

Simple enough to do. You go into the ECU and look at the immobilisation code and write that down. Then you go into the BeCM settings and write the immobilisation code you have just found in the ECU, that puts them in sync. Only problem I can see you having with a D2, is that you don't have a BeCM.....

I recently replaced my gearbox. For access, I put the suspension on high then put my calibration blocks in so it wouldn't drop. I then jacked the front up and put ramps under the front wheels and strapped the wheels to the ramps so it can't roll. Don't forget that once the propshafts are disconnected, there's nothing to stop it rolling.....

Using a trolley jack under the gearbox and two of us (I ratchet strapped the gearbox to the trolley jack), it came out complete with transfer case but as it was only the gearbox we were changing they had to be separated anyway. When it came to fitting the new one, it went on without the transfer case and we fitted that once the box was on. With the crossmember out, getting to the bolts that hold the two together is a lot easier too.

I got a gearbox for mine from Dave at East Coast Range Rovers (07527 953807), £300 delivered on a pallet.

Those two relays (6 and 7) carry a fair amount of current, up to 15A when the blowers are running, so it's worth replacing them with higher current rated ones. The originals are rated at 30A but I've swapped mine for 40A ones. The state of the contacts in the fusebox is also important as even a tiny amount of resistance in there will cause them to get hot.

In your position I wouldn't go so far as replacing big ends and mains or doing too much work other than making sure it is oil and coolant tight. Otherwise you may as well not bother with a replacement engine just rebuild yours. If the sump has to come off you'll get a pretty good idea what the bottom end is like just by what you find in the sump. Maybe try giving the big ends a twist to see if there is any movement that would show excess dry clearance.

As I see it you have two extremes. Either take what your supplier says at face value, drop it in as is and get back on the road as soon as possible (done an engine swap from 4.0 litre to 4.6 on a GEMS in a weekend) or start on a complete rebuild. With the former that then gives you the time to rebuild your original engine at your leisure. Check for anything obvious, the state of the outside of the engine will give you a good clue, is it largely clean and dry or does it have oil stains everywhere?

+1 on rear main seal, as you have them, the oil pump and timing chain (if changing them involves dropping the sump, a new sump gasket too), core plugs might not be a bad idea, especially the ones behind the flywheel, any other gaskets (rocker covers and valley gasket?) that are easier to get at with it on an engine stand and, while you have it sitting in front of you, the water pump.

Attached to the blower is a controller, the HEVAC tells the controller what speed it wants the blower to run at and that powers it. So if they mean they can put power straight onto the motor and it works, it's the controller. It fails in one of two ways, either the blower does nothing or it runs at maximum speed all the time. Blower needs to come out to change it but as it was made by Valeo, it is the same as that used on various French cars. One of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164324521085 is what you need.

Either that or the linkage on the distribution motor wasn't fitted properly. They shouldn't have needed to touch it but the distribution motor drives 3 sets of gears that operate different flaps and if not all are moving that will cause the same problem. First thing to check is that both blowers are working. Easy enough by taking the pollen filters out and looking down the hole.

Cursed Britpart and realised I have a magic screwdriver. Nothing to do with Range Rovers but had to visit an AC system I installed a couple of weeks ago this morning. 2 indoor units from a single outdoor unit but one of the indoor units had stopped working. A bit of an odd fault as it appeared to work, the fan came on, no fault indicators but no cold air, just ambient. Did a bit of checking and found pressures were all over the place on the faulty one but fine on the working one. Called technical support who suggested that maybe the actuator on the top of the expansion valve had popped off. So, 18 self tappers later to get the covers off found it hadn't. Checked all the connections, which appeared fine and switched the unit back on while watching the pressures. They changed as they should but kept on going and a strange whistling started coming from the expansion valve, so I tapped it with the screwdriver handle. The whistling stopped, the pressures stabilised and the unit started to work properly.

So that was the morning but in the afternoon had to repeat a job on the Classic. Having previously replaced the petrol pump with a brand new Britpart one, I'd tried to start it yesterday and found the pump wasn't working. Checked for power, all OK but the pump itself measured open circuit when I put my meter on it. Duff pump then. Checked and found that while I could get another Britpart one for around £30, a genuine LR one would have been £544. Another Britpart it is then.

Postman had delivered it by the time I got in so I set about dropping the tank again. Having done it a few days ago this time it was easy, no seized bolts and I knew exactly what needed to come off and in what order. New pump fitted and the Classic fired up immediately so turned my attention to the one I'd just taken off. It looked perfect but the meter still showed it to be open circuit until I tapped it with the screwdriver handle when the reading went to normal. Put power on it and it worked! So, 2 jobs in one day, both of which could have been cured with a tap from my magic screwdriver......