I've got a spare compressor with a length of 6mm pipe on it that I use for blowing everything though so no real need for an additional compressor.
The main place, other than inside the valve block of course, where the dust will end up is in the two 8mm pipes to and from the dryer. Blow them both through to shift it. Block won't be buggered but will need a decent clean and refurb at some point. The presence of the dust will make it start to leak sooner than it would do ordinarily.
Look it up......
If that particular retail area is known for it, there will be a source of RF close by, possibly a fill in broadcast transmitter lurking nearby. In that case, putting the fob next to the RH rear window so it is right by the receive aerial etched into the glass and pressing the fob button with it there would probably make it work and stop the problem you have. Alternatively if it is a known problem area, when locking the car use the key rather than the fob. If you lock with the key, you can unlock with either the key or the fob without setting off the alarm and tripping the immobiliser. Locking with the fob and unlocking with the key will.
With a Nanocom you just need to plug it in, go to the correct part of the menu and type in the EKA. As said, you do not need to remove any panels, go to the passenger side of the car, on the panel below the glovebox, next the the centre console, run your hand all the way forward towards the bulkhead, the socket is there. That picture and video just goes to prove how much incorrect and misleading crap there is on Youtube....
That's a link to Marty's test sheet, also posted as a sticky in this forum https://rangerovers.pub/topic/5-info-front-door-latch-tests
+1 on ask an LR dealer for a print of the service record data from their system. Tell them you need the EKA and the print will show that, the radio code, lockset barcode, date of manufacture, options, etc.
No, that part number is for a door latch for a 94-99, the one with the 6+1 plugs, a 2001 will have the single 8 way plug, part number FQJ103260. Not cheap at £258 (inc VAT) or see https://rangerovers.pub/topic/2649-half-price-door-latches. If you want genuine that will just plug in, as all the suppliers charge the same price, your quickest option is to order from a Land Rover main dealer or from them online https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/fqj103260-latch-assembly-front-door.html. I ordered the exact same part for another car a few weeks ago, called in at the main dealer at around 4pm one day and got a text from them at 8:15 the next day to say it was there.
I'm pretty sure there are two. One end of each connects to the mechanism on either side and they cross over each other at the motor with one going either side of the drive gear. That way, when the motor turns, it pushes both cables out or in depending on which way the motor turns. Whether you have to buy two or if the part number is for a cable set though I've no idea.
No, the Nanocom gets it right, it only gets its left and right confused with HEVAC and, sometimes, ABS. It sounds like you reversed the wires on the central locking motor when you replaced it, so when it is already locked, it tries to lock it and when it is unlocked it tries to unlock it.
Just had a thought. If you've got 758 Ohms when cold and 58 when hot, presumably the gauge reads correctly when cold? In that case, if you were to put a resistor in series with the sensor, it should bring the gauge reading down. I'd start with something like a 200 Ohm resistor (so giving 258 in total) and see what the gauge reads then.
If you've got one. I've got one that I swapped the circuit board over as the driver chips for some of the warning lights died so I had no oil pressure light (amongst others). Just be careful though as swapping the whole cluster can affect the recorded mileage.
Just been out and tried on the Ascot which is early enough to have the same single connector sensor as you have. At 11 degrees (according to the HEVAC), the resistance of the sensor is 0.908 kOhms and the gauge, as you would expect, reads cold. Unplugged the wire from the sensor and connected a 62 Ohm (the closest I could find in my box of assorted resistors) between the alternator body, which should give a decent ground and the connector. With the ignition on the gauge read just below the mid point. Which suggests it isn't the sensor but something odd happening in the AD conversion within the BeCM or the DA conversion back in the instrument cluster.
Hopefully that will cure it, otherwise one day it will do it when you aren't around and the first you'll know is when you come back to a car and find a burnt out starter motor and a flat battery.......
Yes Chris, you are right, you can see them with the inner wheelarch liner out. Extending from there onwards is a viable way of doing it.
I'm fairly sure they are all M10. Yes, the two ports for the rears just come off the modulator and go directly to the rear callipers. Make sure you don't cross them though or you'll really confuse the traction control (and the ABS for that matter). Just running them in Kunifer would be a lot easier.....
Most places quote higher prices for delivery to Highlands and Islands but it does seem a bit steep. Not sure but I think Royal Mail would still treat you the same as anywhere else, it's just couriers that think you are a foreign country. How long does it take post to get to you?
Allow at least a couple of hours if you've never been in there before. It can be fiddly as there is an unused bit of steel that sticks out of the side of the latch that does nothing other than stop it from being removed from the door as it catches on anything it can. You have to pull the outside door handle out so you can release the arm from the back of the lock barrel, unclip the arm from the handle at the latch and take the sill button off the long rod so the rod can go downwards and clear. You then lower and rotate the latch so it comes out. To start with you'll be wondering at what exact angle you need to get the latch so it comes out but by wiggling, twisting and wobbling you'll suddenly hat the sweet spot and out it comes. While in there you can grease the window mech too.
I've heard rumours that this can be caused by a failing BeCM but, as you say, if that was the case cycling the ignition switch wouldn't cure it. If the BeCM has been drowned somehow, a high resistance ground on the ignition switch input could cause it, not been wading by any chance? Other than that, it could be a broken ignition switch so there is something that has broken off and is floating around inside the switch.
If you unplug C257 from the BeCM and it still does it, then it is looking towards the BeCM, if not, the switch.
I've got the plastic bits but no dog guard, presumably from when plod owned it, and the metal plates must be templates as they aren't there. You wil need the rivnuts though. If the bolts are M8, then an eBay search for M8 Rivnuts comes up with plenty of people that will sell you the nuts but you'll also need to buy the tool to insert them. Alternatively unless you have a very strong dog, these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372228875618 should be good enough and don't need a tool to fit them, just a bolt and washer.
It does, Nigel has found he does a couple of miles to the gallon less than on petrol but with the price difference it's still far cheaper. With LPG, and most other fuels in France, being the most expensive in Europe, it'll be even cheaper for me to run on it over there and LPG everywhere else.
As for running on veg oil, I noticed when the petrol and diesel shortage was happening a few weeks ago, my local Tesco had empty shelves where they would normally have the 3L containers of cooking oil.
That's right, 0.69 Euros a litre for E85 in France compared with 0.99 a litre for LPG (most expensive in Europe) and over 1.60 for petrol and diesel. Now I've sorted the heater circuit error on one of my lambda sensors so one bank always ran open loop on petrol, I'll be running on E85 whenever I'm over there. Seems that although the V8 P38 isn't listed as being flex fuel, it runs quite happily on it.
and people are getting their knickers in a twist over 10% Ethanol......