No, not the horrid little bits of plastic with a springy plate on them that ping out and disappear when you take the sunshade out. He's talking about the washer type clips that go on the pins on either side. I normally call them C clips as they are like a washer but with a bit missing.
Active low means they are grounded, so presumably if you were to ground both it would switch on.
Take the drivers side panel off the centre console and have a look. If it's coming from the O rings, a relativity simple and quick job, if it's coming from the bottom of the vent, it's a dash out job.
Or fit the glass and shove it down into the hole. Satisfactory operation of the sunroof isn't an MoT item......
Thinking about it, when we first put the glass with the new seal into the Classic, we had the same problem. We cured it by polishing the opening with wax polish and putting a smear of something, either Vaseline or silicone grease I don't remember, on the back edge of the seal on the glass so it would slide easier.
Afraid I can't measure mine, it's buried on my mates garage, or was last time I saw it. We were going to put it on his Classic that he was restoring to save him having to find a new seal, only to find that while it was exactly the same size, it was more curved than the Classic one. David is considerably more organised than me so will probably going to be able to lay his hands on it immediately.
I'll admit when I changed the complete cassette on the Ascot, I fitted it complete with the glass in place. Maybe fitting the glass, dropping it and seeing if it will adjust itself to the correct position?
Most reliable one is autogas.app
There's an Android app for it too the only downside is it is always a couple of days out of date. The previous one was www.filllpg.co.uk, which still works but is horrendously slow, was updated by users instantly whereas autogas.app has any updates checked and confirmed before it is updated.
I don't think I could ever have afforded to do the mileage I do if I was running on petrol......
Hi Dave, we are all a bit older than some young kids don't have the aptitude to work on cars and you need to be able to do that if you own a P38 and don't have bottomless pockets. Simon, on here as LPGC, is a full time LPG installer and one of the few I would trust to do the job right. He's just off the A1 near Doncaster so may be a fair way from you but he will do it properly. See http://www.lpgc.co.uk/ for his contact details.
I have as well but how a bit of glass can be transported in one piece to the Scottish highlands is the difficult part.
What was the problem with the EAS?
But who in their right mind would want to swap a P38 for a Velar?
Not quite Triggers broom, still got the original chassis, body, engine, gearbox, transfer case, rear axle, interior and quite a few bits that haven't been replaced because I've worn them out or been refurbed. Even 3 of the wheel bearings are the originals.....
QEP104670 is pump to steering box, so the high pressure pipe (see https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/qep104670-pipe-assembly-pump-to-steering-box.html?code=L7P01010). The return pipe is number 4 on the above diagram and is indeed ANR3383. Pump to steering box is different between petrol and diesel due to the differing location of the pump but the return is the same for all models. The return is the one that was leaking from where it connected to the underside of the reservoir on both mine. You need to find where yours is leaking from to work out which, if any, pipe you need.
No practical reason at all. The hose goes soft with age so the clip is no longer tight enough to clamp the hose onto the reservoir, hence putting a Jubilee clip on there in its place. I've had to do it on both my cars. Assuming that is where the leak is originating and not from the join between the hose and the steel pipe or from corrosion on the pipe itself. In which case replacing it is the only sensible option.
Usual leak on the power steering is the return hose. You've got a low pressure hose from reservoir to pump, a high pressure hose from pump to steering box and the return. That attaches to the bottom of the reservoir and often leaks. All it needs is a jubilee clip to replace the original crimp clip and the crud cleaning off it.
Changing the cooler along with the pipes is a good idea. Sods law says you will order just the pipe and then find you destroy the cooler when you try to get the old pipes off. Make sure you get the O rings with the cooler and pipes.
Yeah, the last couple of times I've done them Unless they pull straight out, I go straight to option 2. Takes seconds and makes the job so easy.
You need to get the pry bar in at the top in the gap between the body and chassis so it sits on top of the airspring and lever it downwards. If it still won't shift and you have the new springs ready to go in, then get brutal with it. Take a 1" wood chisel, slide it into the gap between body and chassis so it sits against the top part of the spring that protrudes above the chassis mounting it is stuck in as close to the chassis plate as possible. Give it a good clout with a lump hammer and you will cut the top off the airspring and the rest of it will fall out.
Next one will be half a million, but I'll keep going for all the 8's. Mind you, at 20-25,000 a year it'll be a while yet.....
For the last couple of days I've been looking at the odo every couple of miles and it came up this morning as I was coming up the sliproad off the A1 heading home. When I hit 400,000 I took about 6 photos on my phone and only one of them was in focus, so this time I shot video instead and it mostly stayed in focus. I reset the trip whenever I fill the LPG tank, if I'd have thought about it, I should have reset it at 444,400 so the trip would have been showing 44.4 too.
If the level was marginal when you last fitted new brake pads, as they wear you will need more fluid to fill the callipers so the level would drop.
All the 4s.....
V8 Dev will remove the engine for you and do the full job from start to finish. No idea how much they would charge for that though and I know Ray isn't keen on working on things with LPG fitted as it just adds to the complication. I took the heads off mine to refurb myself and dropped the short block in with them when I did mine. With the heads already off and an engine crane, taking the engine out is pretty straightforward. Hiring a crane for a weekend would be your other option.
If you are having it done, I would suggest top hat liners and do the job properly. It isn't going to be cheap though. I don't know of anywhere in your area, the only places I would recommend are V8Developments (http://www.v8developments.co.uk/ website being updated at the moment but the phone number is there) or Turner Engineering (https://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/, not to be confused with Turner Diagnostics, a completely different company).