You can separate it into its component parts. The gauges, the main pcb and the message centre are all separate, so you can swap just the bit you need to. The mileage information is stored in the message centre section so if you retain that first and just swap the pcb and see if that cures the problem, you won't have any difficulty with the mileage updating. You will find the gauges with read slightly differently. There are trimmer pots along the top of the pcb for calibrating the gauges. Offset and slope for both speedo and rev counter, hence it is possible to calibrate both so they read spot on and set the mid point on the fuel and temperature gauges.
That's a cheapo aftermarket one anyway with those shaped tailpipe boxes (this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292317399290 is what the genuine ones look like) and, having bought stuff from that seller before, I'd treat a lot of what he says with a pinch of salt.
Mine is definitely a genuine Land Rover exhaust, whether original or replacement I don't know, but it doesn't foul, or even come close to, the brake pipes. I'll get under it tomorrow and get a picture.
They don't. The Ascot is an early one with the brake flexi hoses going to the axle and that has a twin outlet system on it which appears to be the original. It's probably yet another of the facebook old wives tales.....
dave3d wrote:
Also diesel tailpipes point down at the ground.
So do petrol ones unless fitted with a 'performance' system.
Switch on the end of the stalk. You would normally use that to cycle through the Range, MPG, Average speed, Trip 2 and back to Trip 1. If you have it displaying anything other than Trip 1 it will continue to display that when you restart.
Symes wrote:
Spent all day getting vogue se ready for car show tomorrow ---- should be a good day
Pictures?
As long as it comes straight from the centre box, yes, it will fit straight on. I don't think the T on the twin system does much for gas flow either but it doesn't seem to have any detrimental effects.
Stick them in here https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1983-the-place-for-sales-swaps-wants-offers-gifts-and-giveaways.
If you fail dismally at posting pictures (which seems to fool most people) either have a look at this https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1021-inserting-an-image-from-imgur or just put links in and I'll edit the post so they show up.
I bought a complete system from Maltings Off Road which was Allmakes branded. That's lasting pretty well.
Forgot yours is a diesel where the higher compression puts much more strain on the big ends. With a petrol you would probably have got away with it.
LPG on diesels is still going and getting more mainstream too with some truck manufacturers fitting it as standard. See https://tinleytech.co.uk/shop/lpg-kits/diesel-front-end/aeb-mp48-df-diesel-lpg-kit-fe-2/ for an aftermarket add on.
Does it have to be a company in the USA? I would suggest contacting the Dunsfold Collection and seeing what they value theirs at and adding a premium for the fact that yours is the only LHD one ever built so is unique.
I've got a genuine LR one and that seems to cope with two 440ml cans in it as the weight is taken by the front of the cubby but the back of it is against the inside top of the hole. So the weight isn't taken by the dash other than in a downward direction as that bit acts as a pivot with the opposing force acting upwards at the back.
Good point, I was thinking about pulling the pistons out but to just change the shells, it's sump off only.
tanis8472 wrote:
Squeaking I'm not sure about, but the knocking is from the crank near no 6 cylinder.
Had a stethoscope down there. Quite nasty sounding.😞
As you haven't run it for any distance, you should be able to get away with just a new set of big end shells. Can all be done with the engine in the car, heads off, drop the sump and away you go.
Deeper ones might be later as my 96 Ascot has the shallow ones the same as you have. I don't like them at all as they are in just the right place to cause you to sill drinks down the windows switchpack. My ex-plod doesn't have them at all so I got one of the ones that clips into the cubby above the radio. They are NLA and like hens teeth to find but Dave3d has 3d printed some and improved on the design slightly too.
It's almost worth spending $25 to open it up and see what is inside it. A bit like an MSD ignition conditioner that I once found wired in between the distributor and ignition coil on an old, points equipped, Porsche. Couldn't work out what it was supposed to do, broke the security seals and opened it up only to find an empty box......
Knocking I can understand but not squeaking. Are you sure it is from the engine and not from something else in there that has objected to being sprayed with oil?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273885002302 or, so you can test it, jumper between the orange and black wires.
However, if the thermal cutout has tripped and stayed tripped, chances are the compressor needs a new sleeve and seal. It will have been working but not very well so the motor overheated causing it to trip out.
If the pump has a black painted body, it is an OE one. If the motor is black but the compressor body is plain alloy, it is one of the Dunlop branded ones (which I doubt have ever been anywhere near Dunlop) being sold these days and they aren't as well made as the originals, bearing failures being quite common on them.