Yes I think a decade is probably enough even for LR branded hoses.
I also think it is probably worth the few minutes to remove the viscous fan for much better access to the t-stat hoses.
My go-to parts level is generally OEM (not LR branded). When I replaced my hoses I could only find either Aftermarket or LR branded, no OEM. I opted for Aftermarket as LR was somewhere around 10x the price. I haven’t had issues but I’m not sure Aftermarket is the right choice given how serious a coolant hose failure is on these vehicles.
I don’t have SAI on either my 97 P38 or 01 D2, but l understand from the D2 site I frequent (Landroverforums) that you will get a code if you remove it.
If you can make NRV’s, you probably have a market for them here.
I think you can run without O2 sensors. You’ll always be in open loop, running a tad richer than ideal, but no richer than a carbureted engine.
Welcome here navyblu. This is the right place for all your EAS questions.
When I played with it today, it worked as it’s supposed to work.
Marshall, now that I have it set to 100, I’ll try using the column stalk.
Garvin I agree it’s a very useless feature.
On a recent trip my overspeed warning kept beeping every time I hit about 115kmh (highway speed limit 120). I never have it turned on. I kept trying to turn it off with the button on the stalk. It would say “off” and silence while I held the button, but as soon as I released it, it would continue beeping. The selected speed on my panel read 120 and I couldn’t select a higher speed. I know that I used to be able to select it up to 140kmh. I turned the vehicle off for several minutes, but it was the same. I plugged Nano in hoping to be able to disable the function, but all I got was the ability to select 100 or 120. (It was set to 120 and I certainly didn’t want the beep at a lower speed, so I left it). My Son-in-law did some Google searches and found one that said to select it to 100, so I tried that and the warning went away. That was a few weeks ago and the issue hasn’t returned. Have any of you heard of this?
Well it took JLR 4 months to figure out what we already knew, they don’t have key fobs for NAS vehicles. Anyway, they refunded my payment with no problem.
I’m of course unfamiliar with the RHD issues, but I personally wouldn’t dig that deep without doing both gaskets, unless I had a good reason to believe that the opposite HG had been done properly recently.
Piston broke. Reminds me of an old joke.
Great to hear
I’m guessing, but what about set it to standard height with nano then remove the timer relay and plug it back in to reset it. Or disconnect and reconnect the EAS ECU?
Yes, I was thinking SRS Airbags.
Do you mean you want to blow it? It won’t be useable after that. We need to test the escape slides from time to time on the Boeings I work on. It then needs to be sent for overhaul.
In my case on the Disco there was no problem with power or ground at the receiver. I needed a receiver.
I haven’t checked this on my P38, but on the Disco 2 I could tell on the Nanocom if the receiver was working (I needed to replace it).
I hope you get to the bottom of this quickly.
It’s probably fair enough to watch eBay for a Nanocom, but don’t waste too much time looking. Everyone who has one really likes it and probably won’t be looking to sell it. And the owner is likely to be a fairly diehard Land Rover guy, not planning getting out of the LR scene. As costly as they are, I’ve never heard of anyone regretting buying one.
I had a rattling cat on a Dodge Dakota I used to have. I removed the cats and gained a lot of power. The cats were very plugged. I think the large cats on our P38’s might not be as prone to plugging up.