Jesus GILBERTD, thats not exactly the College Heave Ho thats gonna get me motivated to take this on....
Procrastinated long enough and now pulling the trigger on “Operation Comfort”.
Bought the bags and am putting plans together to put H&H back on bags.
Compressor rebuilt and hoses all in place.
Anyone got suggestions on next steps to take on this project prior to me jacking car and removing springs. I’d like to have all the ancillary items sorted before taking wheels and springs off and putting her away fro the winter work....
Do I need any special equipment, 2 x jacks, etc
The seller claims to have put $160,000 worth of work into it!
Would like to see the receipts for that...... of course he probably charges $100 an hour labor and all that hourly work time was spent trying to remove the “O” ring in the heater matrix....
Let me get my camera and some thoughtful, descriptive words together and list the LINLEY with a reserve of $500,000!!!!
Worlds gone mad.....
Another location of water ingress onto the floor is through the holes used to hold the lower windshield trim in place. With age the clips that hold that trim in place get brittle and snap off. Also, if your windshield has ever been replaced then these clips in all likelihood have been damaged.
I recently had this problem and ended up buying a new lower windshield trim. I found 5 of the clips damaged and no longer holding the trim to the glass. When ordering this trim you will need to ask seller to include 6 extra clips because they never come with a full set. After I installed mine I ran a thin bead of clear silicone along the upper trim piece between it and the windshield glass. Haven’t had a drop of water since.
Added to this, I pulled the wiring loom you mention out of the sill and drilled three separate holes along the channel so as to allow drainage of any water in the future. I did the same in the floor of the spare wheel storage area as water seemed to gather there a lot. Make sure to protest the bare metal with your favorite product after drilling the holes.....
Now that cold weather has started here in Norther East USA I had noticed a strange set of occurances in AM. This vibration is not from engine and doesn’t happen when car is stationary.
Vehicle starts fine but when I drive the first 5 minutes or so it vibrates bad enough to seem like a wheel is loose. There is no banging or noises from it. This starts at 15MPH and will stay there up to 75 or 80. Eventually (7 minutes or so) it will stop and vehicle drives normally. It’s still on coils (a task I was supposed to handle this summer but now on burners to 2021).
Air pressure in tyres is fine etc......
Only happens on morning with temps below 5C.......
Anyone have this issue?
Resolved.
One of the vacuum lines had fallen loose.
All set
Got the P1412 code this am. Reset it and its come back.
Anyone have a good step by step fault guide to this?
What are best items to eliminate first?
Ad says he has $168,000 in receipts for work on it.....
I would like to see those.
That’s a lovely looking Van.
Here in the USA they make nothing like that. Just a crate on four wheels with the style of an Addidas shoe box and the aerodynamics similar to having a sheet of plywood strapped vertically on the roof of your favorite towing vehicle.....
I’m Googling the make and model as I type....
I had a nice thread going about rebuilding the LINLEY with photos and a type of documentary of the project until that Ahole at RR.net decided that I was asking too many questions and banned me. Well he banned me for me pointing out that it would probably take less time for him to answer my question than to take the time and type a rant informing me that the information I was seeking could be found in the RAVE.
There was a lot of interest in that project on RR.net and because of the mo%on named after a frog, it came to an abrupt end. While the posts are still there, the documentation of its completion and the photos associated with it are not.
I believe that he is not online as much these days because his mom shut off the internet in the basement where he lives until such time as he makes his bed and cuts the grass...
Jesus wept....
Why is it that people just cant share a bit of info and have a sense of humor. RR.net was a great source of info except for the c&ck a$$ moderator with a handle similar to that of a large frog...... some of the guys there really helped me with my rebuild, and honestly, i enjoyed the site... except for large frog dip sh1t........
Shame the site allows him to moderate it into what is is becoming.....
Did you were on the dark side forum you would get banned for such salty language you bollox!!!! :-)
Beowulf, nice work removing that ‘bra’. My P38 has it and it’s impossible to get off.
I have given up on it such is the pain in my hole the task has become.....
Nice work Strange Rover.....
For what its worth, I’d be careful putting your vehicle on jack stands with gravel as a base. My best friend in Ireland lost two fingers when he bumped against underneath of car he was working on and the jack stand slipped of the gravel. Luckily his arm was only under the car at the time....
Not wanting to be the car repair safety police .......
Love the colors both inside and out....
Just got the key fobs, RF receiver and BECM board I had sent to Marty in ordered to get them synced. Apparently the brand new lock set I got from LR were not synced to my VIN.
Installed the Lot and now I can say with confidence that the LINLEY is as good as the day it came out of the SV shop 20 years ago this November.
Thanks Marty for being the final piece in the jigsaw!
Central locking works remotely!
Do the cheapest first. Run a bead of silicone along glass and strip. If you removed scuttle panel and the leaks followed I would wager that water is coming from either the holes I mentioned or else the pollen filter lid.
A problem causing water to gather under the scuttle panel is if the heated windshield wiring was not reconnected properly to the panel, water will gather behind the drooping wires and because it’s not flowing will look for an egress....
While you are at it, you should drill two holes in both of the channels along the floors as shown in your photo. This will allow any future unseen leaks to drain instead of pooling around wires. I did this to both my P38s, as well as in the floor of the spare wheel compartment, and both are dry with no corrosion. After drilling holes I primed them.
Another place the water gets in is the holes wherE the lower outer windshield trim is connected. There are about 12 holes and after time the clips on the strip break off causing the trim to separate from windshield and water to ingress into the holes and down onto the carpet.
Difficulty with investigating this as a root cause is that when you pull the trim off many of the clips are brittle and break leaving you with open holes.
I bought a new strip for my vehicle and it came with about 4 clips less than were required so if you go this way try and save some.
An alternative to buying a new strip would be to run a bead of clear silicone along where the strip meets the glass.
Time to put new tyres on the P38.
Anyone have a recommendation for tyre size and brand. Vehicle is not used off roads and drives about 50% highway and 50% twisty backroads. Weather is typical NE USA....
She currently has a low profile tyres on her from previous owner and I left them on her as they were in good condition and looked well but I suffered with the ride quality.
BEST BRAND AND SIZE
Answers on a postcard......