Grizzly wrote:
Marshall, for that stand alone ECU do I need to send the unit to Tornado
I understand they have a container load of them, so no, but they will charge you something for the replacement of course.
That isn’t really much slip is it? hardly surprising that the tyres chips if go around a tight roundabout a little quickly
Each system has its own module. The ECU shouldn’t interfere with the ABS or air bag module. As the car isn’t OBD compliant, you will need a dedicated reader like a Nanocom.
As for the hacked ECU, you can get a GEMS ECU set up as a stand alone unit. Basically it is reconfigured to accept any code it sees from the BeCM and accept it, as opposed to looking for its own specific code. I thin Tornado charges under 100 quid for the mod.
With a Nanocom you can also sync any ECU to any BECM as well through the security learn menu.
I thought about giving the TPS and IACV a freshen up. Replacements are very expensive for a GEMS, but I was lucky enough to pick up a NOS plenum for peanuts, with all the kit on it, ready to fit. Rather than fit it whole, I took the two sensors off and replaced them on mine, gave theMAF a good dose of cleaner, and reset the adaptives. It might be my imagination of course, but she does seem to be running sweeter and a little more go.
I should also say that the old IACV had worn on one side as well, no longer the perfect cone.
Give these guys a call, they seem to have a good reputation. Not next door, but not too far either.
EAST COAST RANGE ROVERS 07527953807
Just disconnect the earth lead prior to charging, charge the battery, then re-connect.
A noise like that can’t be good, and as GillbertD says, it sounds like a 50/60 Hz hum.
For the remove and refit, check operation 60.25.01 in the front suspension section.
When I go to the post office each day, there is one particular car park, next to a doctors, if I use it, I can only lock and unlock the RR by standing next to the RHR window. Any of the other dozen or so car parks are fine, just that one, so “something in the air” so to speak.
Amazing job. No doubt you have covered this, but what have you done for an air filter?
A couple of notes on a new starter. When I did mine, I made up an earth lead which goes from a starter bolt to the battery earth point on the RH inner guard area thereby directly earthing the starter. Secondly, and to @Bolt 's point, I wiped a finger of RTV around the starter case joints and made up a simple plastic cover from a water bottle, cable tied to the starter to prevent any future oil contamination of the unit. If yours is oily, then replace the RH rocker cover gasket at the same time as you do the starter.
Here is a pdf copy of the 1999 onwards ETSM if it is any use.
I suspect the error indicates that the ECU isn’t seeing a signal from them (i.e. no noise) when it expects to, so yes, your wiring might be the issue.
Over here, a 30 year old vehicle can be put onto historic registration. It works out (in NSW) to be about 10% of the cost of full rego. You have to be a member of a club, vehicle still needs an annual inspection, either MOT or by a club official, and has to be substantially unmodified, basically withe the power train and body as it would have had new.
You get 60 days driving via a logbook scheme, plus any club event days. There are no restrictions on where or how far you travel on your 60 days, so in theory you could do a trip around OZ. Only the days you drive the car count.
Yep, TC serial numbers.
Have you tried British Motor Industry Heritage Trust? They have a lot of the records. I know for older LR products you can get information from them as to build spec, to the extent it was recorded.
Yuasa batteries are also top quality.
As for me, washed mine.
@StrangeRover that is an interesting fan you have there. After market?