Guys, does anyone know who make the original (OEM) VCU for the cooling fan? I have one available that is supposed to be Borg Warner. BW stuff is good, but is it OEM?

I use an old LAN cable withe the plug cut off.

My only comment would be to look at offsetting it to one side or the other to improve your rear vision. Great work though!

As for the winding road, up hill and down dale, just drop it into third and leave it there. It is also a good move when driving around town.

Is there a posability that the Nano is wrong? I have found dramatically different readings using different tools. For instance LTFT currently on mine, Nano shows at -37.5% whereas another tool shows -11.7%.

Although not strictly to the point, in the BeCM module, Nano shows the Police spec selected and that the vehicle has no cruise control fitted. The RSW software shows no Police selected and a cruise is fitted which is correct for this truck.

Top trim is a little bit of a process to remove.

Remove the side trims (against the doors).
DO NOT pull the top trim off!
If you pry gently yo will see it is held on with sliding clips which you need to slide about 1/2" to the left.
The book says to use a credit card, but no way will that work with a truck that has been in the wild for a number of years.
I used a small steel paint scraper directly onto the clip, and even then some heeded a gentle tap with a very small hammer.

All came undone with no issues. Once apart it is obvious how it works, and quite ingenious. The bottom trim would have been much better made this way.

I probably shouldn’t say this, but mine never moves from the fill line on the coolant tank, month after month ..... unless I play with the cooling system, in which case out take a day or so to stabilise and then never changes.

When mine got to that stage I bought a S/H diff from a local wrecker with a “guarantee” that I could swap it for another if it wasn’t up to snuff. Replaced mine with it, very simple to do, no more whine.

I don’t know, it isn’t something you really check that often. Was it a cracked blade or maybe the outer “ring” was cracked. All I know is that after 23 years, it decided it had had enough. But the bang was huge, the under bonnet carnage extraordinary, 10 days on I am still finding pieces of fan in and around the engine bay, cassis, body corners etc.

I’m going to guess a diff, probably pinion bearing.

Or indeed two!

Very few bits to find. Mind you, still finding bits under the bonnet a week later and pulling them out!

Well not so much today, but over the last week .....

So on my way down to my brother’s place (7 hours south), I’m about 1:15 away from getting there ..... BANG!!

Big dent in the bonnet, car disappears in smoke, oil everywhere .....

Pulled up (had a copper behind me, he stopped too got out and said “that didn’t look good!”) popped the bonnet ..... no fan, no shroud, half a battery box, oil cooler line from transmission cut through as thought it had been with a knife, smashed PS reservoir, cut engine oil to cooler line, bonnet sound insulation in shreds, but (and I don’t know how) nothing on the cooling side was touched (must have been the fact I had literally picked up a full suite of hoses that morning before setting out).

So, on a tilt that for the rest of the journey (after having the local fire brigade turn up, along with the highway authority to put out signs and clean up the 300m oil slick) and commence the scurrying around for spares in the few days before Christmas.

Managed to get the truck running Christmas Eve. 5l of oil to refill the engine, 7l to refill the transmission. At this stage everything running as sweet as a nut, so hopefully, once I get a few more trim bits to replace the broken bits, all should be back to normal, then a little panel beating and a coat of black paint.

Lucky I guess.

Thanks to Mad_As for raiding his spares collection.

Yes, agreed! A merry Christmas to one and all!

I run 20W 50 (Castro’s GTX) with a tube of Molybond (molybdenum disulphide) in at each oil change. 1960’s technology demands 1960’s solutions.

So, there may already be something on this somewhere, so happy for this to get deleted, but I thought I'd relate something I found interesting in the hope it might help someone else.

My truck has never lost sync. Unlike some people's who seem to go through the issue regularly.

When I say never has ..... what I mean is hadn't until last night. Jump in, hit the key, nothing. Check it is in park, still nothing. Cycle the gears to check the XYZ, still nothing, then I noticed no CEL. Ah! loss of sync. cycle the key a few times, CEL back on, starts up and off I go.

I was pondering later, why, after two years of trouble free starting, would this have happened. What did I do different. So here it is for what it is worth.

I have an aux socket in the back. When I wired it in I took the feed directly off the under seat fuse box live feed. This feed, I assume, is where the BeCM gets is power from. So what did I do different? I plugged in a compressor driven fridge to the aux socket just before I went to start the truck.

Did the consequent lowering of voltage at this feed point interfere with the BeCM and its communication with the ECU?

Are the loss of sync issues come people have due to a poor connection between the under bonnet supply and the BeCM supply, resulting in a dip in voltage when you turn on the key?

No idea, but I thought I'd throw it out there.

Of course my experience might be totally unrelated at all, but .......

Get yourself some wax and grease remover and go over the area you cut very well. Then give it a last go with metho right before you goi to glue.

The sight gauge faces into the engine bay so you have to look at it from the far side.

Last time I had mine off I replaced the speed nuts and used stainless self tappers.