I can't comment on the Mercedes system, as maybe it does use actual CANBUS and does its error reporting differently.

But on the P38 the MOSFETS in the BECM have a 'status ' pin which will change state in various error conditions.

The under current warning on them is what triggers the P38 to think the lamp is blown. The smaller rated MOSFET will trigger the warning up to around 150-200mA, whereas the big ones, for the headlights, indicators, break lights, fog lights (front and rear) etc reckon in the datasheet they need at least 800-900mA of draw before it won't detect an error.

I seem to recall trying it on a rear one answer needing just over 1A before I could get it to turn off.

Makes no difference to me now... I've disabled the warnings on all but the headlights and front fogs at the moment as they're all still halogen incandescent lamps until I find suitable LED replacements and a place to set them up properly!!

They should be OK, yes.

The lower wattage lamp circuits (reverse, tail lights, sidelights) need about 1.8W at 12V for them to not log an error.

Yes - it's all related.

55w (std H4 halogen) at 12V is just over 4.5A

I think the BECM needs more than about 1A draw on the output for it to not think the lamp is blown - so anything more than about 12W (12v x 1A) should be fine.

If you work it out at 14v - which is charging voltage with engine running, then 55w/14V = 3.92A
Minimum would need to be about 14W.

Either way, it's not a problem with modern LED headlamp units, as they are all superbright or COB led chips, which draw a decent amount of power. I don't think I've even seen an H4 LED unit as low as 12/14w, so pretty much all of them should be able to run without triggering a warning.

Most of the LED headlamp kits don't need a load resistor - the LED chips are more powerful then standard single LED's so they draw a lot more current, and thus don't trip the headlamp warnings.

But the cheap LED kits are shite for beam pattern and cutoff. I've tried one and I couldn't get it anywhere near close enough to not be dazzling to other drivers.
the second set I bought from China direct are a lot better and might even be OK to use with the correct setting up, but out of the box as a 'plug and play' drop in replacement they were also still too dazzling to other drivers

At rest, before starting up, the fluid level will be higher than 'Max'

The fluid level should be read with the ignition on, and after the ABS pump has stopped running and charged the system. Once pump stopped, the fluid level should be sitting at 'Max'

Again, I use a syringe to suck out any excess if I'm swapping brake pads - and then just top up again once finished, pressed the pedal a few times and let the pump stop.

The early version receivers, are notorious for waking up the BECM for pretty much anything. The second version is better with it's filtering, but still not great in today's society where so much is wireless.

Definitely the best (and most expensive) fix is the 3rd gen receiver, which as far as I can tell filters out JUST the P38 remote transmissions to send to the BECM to wake it up.

It's not a nightmare to do - easy enough to get the headlining card in and out...

The biggest 'problem' if you like is getting the fabric stretched just right and stuck down so that it doesn't bubble or crease.
Other than that... a piece of piss

Sorry - busy pulling my hair out trying to sort out an ABS issue for someone, who keeps getting faults coming up...

Had fault on his original ECU, bought second hand spare - fine for 6 months, and then same fault... bought repaired one off me - fixes that fault, but then has a different fault staying logged (for him on non-LR diagnostics) so came back, and I've swapped it for another of my repaired ones... seemed ok - and got a call as he was on the way home saying it's now throwing faults...

Said I'd repair his original he gave back on core charge, and there's no problem with it...

My '00 vogue restoration one has clips in it for the dog guard. In fact the headlining card that came out of it has the cutouts in it for the mounts... So if you talk nicely to me, I might let you have them ;) since it makes no odds to me if I end up selling the '00 with them or not.

Latch - I'm 95% certain I know what the problem is, as I fixed one that was doing the same the other day. It's obviously caused by having to put a new set of holes in the casing for the new microswitches, and over time they must elongate a bit with the force of the lever on them. I'll whip the latch out, and a couple of extra bits of threaded rod will have it fixed in no time.

I'm still compiling my list of things to bring, but I am aiming to be up there about 09:30, to start moving the other one outside, and things like that.

Marty

That is tidy!

There's also one on one of the FB groups, which is down Devon/Dorset way from memory - it was £1K but seen he's dropped it to £800...

It was running rough - had a few things replaced on it I think - again on LPG... my guess was that either it needed a pair of lambda sensors, TPS and cleaning of the IACV - along with a reset of the fuel trims and a recalibration of the LPG system...

Again, would be an easy one for someone with a Nanocom and a spare weekend... the rest of the vehicle looked straight and pretty clean. I'd have been interested myself if I didn't have the workshop full with the other 2!!

It's entirely possible that the early ones didn't have an immobiliser strategy in the engine ECU - I wouldn't be surprised if a 1994 is like that to be honest.

Yes, check microswitches with Nanocom - and read VIN in the BECM, and see if it matches what's on the plate in the windscreen

I'd also see what version RF receiver it's fitted with - see if it's ever been upgraded from the crappy MK1 version to at least the second generation one - will give a bit better filtering of signals, which might help in future scenarios...

Let us know what you find!

Yes, I'll be there obviously... will bring some bits to add to the BBQ

Been up to the workshop today and my dad's given me a hand to remove the other 2 headlining cards, so they are stacked up and ready to be stripped of the old fabric and cleaned up.

Box of adhesive and big roll of fabric is up there and ready to go. I don't have a wire brush for cleaning the foam off, but if someone has one, we can get started on that. Will try and remember to bring the old vacuum cleaner aswell.

Morat, I think know I know what the issue is with the latch - is it saying the door is open when it's not? Can't quite remember... but if that's it, then I can fix that in about 20mins.. it will be down to the the mounting holes drilled for the new switches. I'll whip it out and put an extra pin in, as that will stop and flex in the mounting for the new switches.

I've put a repaired switchpack and LHF moulded connector door latch up at the workshop for OB and smiler if he wants the latch..

Water pump... shouldn't be that... if it is, I'll be pissed off as it was a brand new Quinton Hazel one on the new engine back in January - it's only done 3500 miles....

It's more likely to be a leak down the shaft of a bolt on where it bolts into the front cover - I've fixed so many little leaks. Whilst getting the full stainless steel bolt kit for the engine was great, and cheaper than buying all the bolts individually for various things - the spring washers in the kit are utter shite (the place I bought them from have supposedly been selling bolt sets for ages, so I figured would be reputable...

Half the spring washers have just crushed and squashed out on tightening (even before getting to torque value) so I've replaced a bunch of them with just a second flat washer and seems to have fixed a lot of the issues... one of the long bolts of the front cover was weeping before, so removed it, RTV on the thread and ditch the spring washer, and it's been fine. My guess is that the other one, which isn't as easy to get to is now leaking - just need to take the belt, tensioner etc off to be able to get in there and take a proper look...

Swittchpack - yes have a few sunroof versions left - so can put one in for you. Usually £50 on the website, but as I said - 10% off any parts like that for summer camp - so will be £45...

Arrival time on Saturday... not got that far yet - probably between 0900/0930 - so I can open up and move the other RR out of the workshop bay, and do a bit of a tidy up.

If I'm there before other people, then doesn't bother me, as I'll just start stripping the trim out of my one to get the headlining card out!

I have a box of various sized HNBR rings, which I'll put in aswell, fingers crossed there's enough sizes in the to cover it all.

If I'm missing one them I'll order it over the weekend.. it's not crucial, bit something else I'd like off the list..

Oh, and also have a coolant leak (sodding again) to look at on the front of the engine somewhere..

The HEVAC is a right PITA - but once the fault is pinpointed, then it's fairly easy to rectify. My guess will be something like blend motors (probably one, but it's worth trying to get spending approval to do all 3 and not then have a second one fail a couple of months down the line!)

Tracking - yes please... I've got MOT booked for Monday morning - so my aim over the weekend will be to sort the tracking, do the headlining and get the modulator replaced, and bled through with new dot4.

I might bung my new AC condenser and dryer in the boot too and if there's time, look at that - as I'll then be able to get the AC gassed and hopefully cold for longer than a couple of weeks.. I know my front bumper will come off OK...

I'll have a look on the shelf and see if there's an early LHF door latch if you are wanting one... I can fit it whilst we are there...

If I don't have one, then I can always work on one an get it to you at some point..

I agree, the list doesn't look that bad - can probably get through a fair amount of it!

On some of them to get the side trims out, it's necessary to remove the switchpack and gearshift surround so you can then get under the inside of the side trim to get it clear to be able to do the lift/twist maneuver to get the whole panel out.

Again on later ones with the leather side of the centre console (I'm guessing plod didn't have that either!) if you don't do that then it scuffs/scrapes up the leather down by the base of the switchpack

Engine Disabled on the later ones usually means the passive immobiliser is active and kicked in before the vehicle was started. Usually the immobiliser coil around the ignition will pulse the key to automatically send an unlock code, but if the coil doesn't work, and the BECM doesn't receive a code when you go to start, then you get the message on the dash to press remote button.

---- in the BECM is normal for EKA and fob codes - nanocom won't read them unless the BECM has previously had the electronic programming lock set to 'UNLOCKED' in it's normal (as shipped from the factory) state, EKA and fob codes will just show '----'

glad it's started and running again though...

NO!!! :)

The moveable P38 still has all the bits in it, and starts/runs enough to get it in/out of the workshop.

Mental note though, it has a flat battery, so need to take the charger up with me this weekend and leave it on charge for the week so it will start next weekend... otherwise we might have to roll it (it does have 4 wheels on it though!

I think the disco is still where we left it last year though...

There is one workshop space (undercover) available as the other half has got one of my project P38's in it which is slowiy being pulled apart so I can start re-building it!

The other half has my second project P38, but that is still moveable so I'll put that outside whilst we are up there, so we can have one space inside.

I had a feeling a couple of people were bringing Gazebo's etc but if you want to bring the tent, then feel free... hopefully we will have good weather though, as it makes everything easier!!