The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
2404 posts

You're a bunch of scholars and gentlemen!

I'm pretty sure this is the right size, I did come up with 3 inches as the OD with my super cheap VeryNears. I'll double check which side of the join I was measuring.


StrangeRover wrote:

How much range should I expect from my tank..

I'm guessing it has a max capacity of around 75ltrs

From a 75ltr fill i'm getting around 185mi

That sound about right?


That's 2.4 miles / Litre.
Sounds OK if you're driving carefree on country roads. It's usually a little over 3miles/litre for me when on a motorway run.

Hi folks, I'm now learning more about exhausts....

The Duchess has been very noisy on startup, and quite rattly - then calming down. It turned out the the exhaust clamp upstream of the centre box is loose, rusted and not clamping properly.

So, I've been sticking my head underneath and reckon that I can get the exhaust system down (seems to be a total of three rubber hangers) but how would I replace the clamp? The pipes are all in good nick, and I can cut off the old clamp - but how would I get a new one over the flared ends so I could tighten it up?

I'm wondering if there is such a thing as a clamp that you can attach to the two ends of the pipe, jubilee clip style - but has a way of tightening the two halves together. I can't find one.

What would a proper mechanic do in this situation?

Thank you!!

Gonna miss you in the UK mate!

Her Ladyship's Golf Mk4 GTTDI has finally expired after 225k miles with a blown turbo. Seeing as we bought it for £600 with about 180k showing, I reckon it gave us a good run! Hopefully the Recaro seats and new tyres will get us a few quid back but it's basically a write off at this point as the best quote to fix it is £1100 with no guarantee that the engine hasn't eaten significant bits of turbo and may well be compromised too.

So, hey ho. I'm looking for a daily for the Mrs - a common situation.

SWMBO is a "Spirited" driver, quite capable of hanging the tail out and getting it back again and will not be happy in anything boring. Or too big. Which is why I inherited a P38 in the first place.

Casting about on ebay I've noticed the MX-5 Mk3 are plentiful and cheap, which suggest to me that they're not shit. Has anyone tried the Mk3 version? Specifically the hard top? I'd be interested in opinions before getting too far down the track. I doubt I'd be driving it much, as I'm 6' 4". The boss is a hair under 6 feet, so cabin size could still be an issue, perhaps.

Don't they run for one wash in five when the headlights are switched on? Or am I muddling it up with another vehicle?

I walked straight past it and started up the Jeep (first hit). I don't yet know what punishment I will receive from The Duchess for this behaviour!

I wouldn't put my beautiful shiny torque wrench in the way of that filthy old engine oil... but I don't gorilla them either. Just a "nip up" which is, as we know, the correct technical term.

Thanks Guys :)
The unit is a Marty refurb so it already has an LED and the Zebra strip. The dimming is very much related to dampness so I can only assume some characteristic of the screen is affected by that. It's no big deal as it basically serves as a reminder to keep the interior of the car dry to prevent mould!

Due to my 3D printing habbit I have a lot of 99% IPA so I reckon this job should be within my reach. Famous last words 🔚

I have the same thing with the damp causing the HEVAC screen to dim out - but I use that as a measure of how many dessicant packs I need to put in the car :)

Yes, my buttons are not really working now. Some are OK but the temp down button for both sides is almost impossible activate now, and the passenger side is now stuck on Hi. It's a shame as the aircon is working a treat and I'm getting a nice 17degrees in the driver's seat!

My HVAC has been getting increasingly reluctant to change temps and the passenger side is now stuck on Hi. Given that it's simple to remove the unit, how hard is it to do whatever Marty did 5 years ago to make the buttons work again? Or is there anyone in the market doing replacements?

I think that if I were to use a home pump in a residential area I'd go for the expensive option. I can't imagine any neighbours would be delighted to learn that I had 47kg of LPG and a jury rigged system, no matter how safe it actually was :)

Just for giggles....
London is already considering banning diesel engine on boats, which is a concern to the narrowboaters who like chugging through. Seeing as a narrowboat at full throttle is barely going to use 1l / hour and London is not a place where you can consider going at full speed - it seems a bit petty to me.

300 miles from a Tesla 3 is ambitious. You'd need a full battery. IIRC even the long range version tops out at 350 miles (in ideal conditions of course). Tesla recommend that you keep the battery between 20 and 80% whenever possible to increase the battery life, so most of the time the range is much less. Of course, most of the time you don't need 300 miles but it can't be a nice feeling to imagine you're pushing such an expensive component when you do.

I personally would like to check out a Tesla, but I now WFH so the only time I need to drive is usually a dash into York or a road trip 3 or 5 up for a long way. So, I think the Simon's home LPG pump is FAR more interesting!

I'm glad someone still has LPG - it's an instant win for CO2 and emissions reduction. STUPID Government :(

This is a bit wordy but interesting (to me at least!)

TLDR; Toyota have an H2 powered IC engine which they're looking to release in Japan. End of EVs? That'd be nice.

I wish F1 would change to H2 power.

Those sound like fascinating projects!! Best of luck making them go :)

Gilbertd wrote:

Morat wrote:

Are lucas as bad as their reputation? I guess I could rebuild the current one and keep it on the shelf next to the EAS pumps 😀 😁

You've got a Lucas and it has died, 'nuff said.....

Fair point... It's a refurbed Lucas and assuming it was fitted the week before I bought the car it has lasted about 5 years. That's not exactly stellar but if I have a spare on the shelf I can probably live with it.

Be wary what you get, the mounting are different from GEMS and Thor, so when someone says it fits P38 94-02, it doesn't, it'll be one or the other. You need ERR5834 (150A) or ERR6413 (130A). The 130A one is a lot cheaper https://www.lrdirect.com/err6413-alternator-pwr (unless you go all posh and get a Bosch....).

Thank you for the part numbers, super helpful. The one I linked has ERR5834 in the description, not that it's a guarantee but I imagine it's a good sign.

NewsFlash :)

The number on the alt is LRA02803 and there's a nice little "remanufactured" sticker on it.

which would make me think it's a 150A Lucas part. Bosch seem to be listing at £350 but there's this on ebay.
Whaddya think?
Are lucas as bad as their reputation? I guess I could rebuild the current one and keep it on the shelf next to the EAS pumps 😀 😁