Oh dear.
The intermittent Cheque Book light is starting to annoy me, now that the Duchess will start, drive and stay up on her bags. The light comes on for every cold start. If I drive for fifteen minutes or so and restart, the light goes out.
I've just been doing some fiddly poking with the Nanocom and saw a ton of faults, all of which cleared apart from this one
right hand blower motor stop mode fault (current)
The left hand blower works fine, the right hand one seems weak rather than stopped - but the fault is definitely there.
So, where do I start?
Fuse box?
Resistors?
Can anyone please link me to the right Valeo parts please? I have a feeling that something in a Peugot box would be better value than one with a Green Oval :D
Right, it's time to get into the EAS issues on my Range Rover.
Feel free to ignore this thread if it's too tedious but I thought I'd be better off writing stuff down methodically and if anyone has any advice (apart from Mr Molotov) just shout/laugh at me....
Symptoms:
- Compressor runs too much. Has been like that for (ahem!) time.
- Sits down overnight, parked on a slight slope.
- Sits down over a couple of days sitting on the flat.
- Just realised that the green dust seen between the solenoids in the block is probably dessicant!
- Driving back from Salisbury, EAS boop boop and the Nanocom revealed "Valve permanently closed RHF"
She managed to drive back for 2.5 hours on emergency valves at 65 PSI all round (maybe 55 at the back?) and sat down again over three days. She self levelled on the way down, which was strange but I guess it's logical that the bags on the high side get squished more.
Resources!
2x Valve Blocks with Driver pack and plastic box.
The fitted one was last rebuilt 6-7 years ago
The spare on was rebuilt a couple of months ago but I couldn't get any pressure into the system when I hooked it up. Hmmm.
1x Dunlop compressor (fitted) which wasn't able to get us home, and I forgot to unplug it when we started driving again so it was probably running all that time, probably toast.
1x "Good, used" OEM compressor from ebay (the CNS4x4 Guy in Wales) which hopefully will run OK but needs testing.
1x compressor rebuild kit including sleeve from X8R
Nanocom
Calibration Rods
small brain.
First things I'm going to check:
- Has the Dunlop Compressor died?
- Is the dessicant in the dryer now done? (It's ancient, last changed just before a summer camp!) and is it now green?
- Does the new pump run and produce pressure?
Then we'll see....
While I was switching between EAS boxes yesterday, I remembered that the cruise control vacuum has been disconnected at the usual T for err.. quite some time. So I took the opportunity to reroute the long line from the accelerator in front of the bracketry and that made it long enough to connect up again.
Once I had air in the bags again I went for a test drive, wondering if the CC would come back to life. It didn't :(
Have I knackered it by leaving the vacuum circuit open to atmosphere?
I set the CC button on the dash, got to about 50mph and then pressed the SET+ button on the wheel. Nothing happened. I kinda remember a light on the dash as well, but if that was ever a real thing, it isn't now. Is there anything else I can try?
Hi folks :)
I tried rebuilding a Dunlop branded EAS compressor a while back and it was so totally grenaded inside I gave up as the bearings were shot.
I've got two more in the garage of uncertain provenance. What do you reckon to my chances with these ones?
So, what's the best lubricant for the O-rings in the EAS valve block please?
I've got the Vitron ones from X8R and they recommend Vaseline or di-electric grease.
I do have Vaseline, I also have some Silicon grease (from Carbusonic) which I think I used last time. A quick google for di-electric grease comes back with Silicon grease, am I OK to use this stuff on Vitron?
hi folks,
does anyone have a source for these irritating little gadgets please? Ideally in beige/lightstone.
The ones holding the subwoofer panel in place in the Duchess have given up the ghost and no longer grip. I ordered some at about 3.50 for 5 and then ended up with 10 quid postage! I hope they fit :D
Cheers,
Morat
While I'm feeling RangeRovery....
Does anyone have any suggestions for drop in (or as close as possible) replacements for the twin rear subs? Mine now have the full "free floating cone" mod, so they're pretty useless. If there is anything that can be made to fit and will sound OK, I'm all ears (omg no)
I took the Duchess to have nice bath before her MOT and one of the guys cleaning her broke the passenger sidestep. The front outrigger was rusted. What are the options here? I don't really use the sidesteps - but I don't want to leave lots of nasty holes. Are replacement brackets available? Do I need to find someone to fab one up - or can I just rip them all off?
Recommendations please!
After <mumbles> time faffing on with the Nanocom flicking the fuel pump on/off on cold starts, I finally bothered my arse to swap the fuel pump relay for one of the screen heat relays.
Now it has only been a couple of days and this was always a bit intermittent but she has started first flick of the key ever since cold or warm. Coincidence?
I have a couple that need to be rebuilt...
Is this the best option?
https://x8r.co.uk/range-rover-p38-eas-air-suspension-compressor-pump-seal-repair-fix-kit-twin-x2.html
There are ebay specials for £9 but I'd rather do this stuff once each.
Does anyone have any recommendations please?
HI all,
I thought I'd get a spare set of EAS gubbins so I can rebuild and swap instead of leaving the Duchess sitting on her arse while I build motivation between steps.
So I bought a semi-dodgy looking set (non rebuilt but allegedly tested good) with the intention of swapping it in to see if it's working, then making a decision. If it doesn't work I've a decent shot at a return as it was described as working.
However, the exhaust looks to have been blowing white powder for some time. Assuming this hasn't been used by a Colombian Cartel to make deliveries, I'm guessing this is dessicant from the dryer.
Should I just rip this thing to bits now, or would it be OK to hook it up to the vehicle and see if it works in the current state? I'm slightly concerned about potentially pushing dessicant through the rest of the system.
I think something on the building site next door is triggering the RF unit/BECM. The Battery dies in about a day now, and it's taking a toll!
I'll have to disconnect a terminal between trips I reckon :(
Hi folks, I'm now learning more about exhausts....
The Duchess has been very noisy on startup, and quite rattly - then calming down. It turned out the the exhaust clamp upstream of the centre box is loose, rusted and not clamping properly.
So, I've been sticking my head underneath and reckon that I can get the exhaust system down (seems to be a total of three rubber hangers) but how would I replace the clamp? The pipes are all in good nick, and I can cut off the old clamp - but how would I get a new one over the flared ends so I could tighten it up?
I'm wondering if there is such a thing as a clamp that you can attach to the two ends of the pipe, jubilee clip style - but has a way of tightening the two halves together. I can't find one.
What would a proper mechanic do in this situation?
Thank you!!
Her Ladyship's Golf Mk4 GTTDI has finally expired after 225k miles with a blown turbo. Seeing as we bought it for £600 with about 180k showing, I reckon it gave us a good run! Hopefully the Recaro seats and new tyres will get us a few quid back but it's basically a write off at this point as the best quote to fix it is £1100 with no guarantee that the engine hasn't eaten significant bits of turbo and may well be compromised too.
So, hey ho. I'm looking for a daily for the Mrs - a common situation.
SWMBO is a "Spirited" driver, quite capable of hanging the tail out and getting it back again and will not be happy in anything boring. Or too big. Which is why I inherited a P38 in the first place.
Casting about on ebay I've noticed the MX-5 Mk3 are plentiful and cheap, which suggest to me that they're not shit. Has anyone tried the Mk3 version? Specifically the hard top? I'd be interested in opinions before getting too far down the track. I doubt I'd be driving it much, as I'm 6' 4". The boss is a hair under 6 feet, so cabin size could still be an issue, perhaps.
My HVAC has been getting increasingly reluctant to change temps and the passenger side is now stuck on Hi. Given that it's simple to remove the unit, how hard is it to do whatever Marty did 5 years ago to make the buttons work again? Or is there anyone in the market doing replacements?
Cheers!
This is a bit wordy but interesting (to me at least!)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rTawvzH0MQ4
TLDR; Toyota have an H2 powered IC engine which they're looking to release in Japan. End of EVs? That'd be nice.
I wish F1 would change to H2 power.
Hi folks....
The Duchess doesn't seem to want to leave the garage. The alternator has now died (it was fine when I dropped it off!)
The battery has been charged but the battery light stays on. The garage says it's only charging at 11.1V and a replacement is needed. This is the cheapest I can see and IIRC Denso are OK. What do you reckon?
https://tinyurl.com/msm8d4dp
Thanks once more!
but I though this was quite an interesting review in a "yeah, if I had a spare £80k" kinda way...
The Duchess has had a mild tick for a long time now, and this time round she got an advisory for a slight leak of exhaust from the manifold.
Today I overtook a van with full beans and suddenly I'm driving a steam train!!
Call me a wimp but I really don't have a clue where to go next. She'll probably got to the local garage (who have been very good) but just in case, are there any simple things I should try first? I'm guessing that it's likely I'll need to pony up for a new (passenger) manifold - are there any recommended ones?
Thanks!
Miles
Does anyone know why my satnav keeps losing the time? I've noticed that when the SatNav decides we're in London (probably 90% of the time) the time displayed on the data screen is incorrect. If I drive for long enough the SatNav will eventually pick up the correct location, and time.
Thinking like a computer geek, is there a battery in the SatNav unit like the motherboard battery in a PC? Or am I barking up the wrong tree?