The lazy man's approach is to get a couple of buckets of Damp Rid, park it in the sun and leave the windows shut. Don't expect quick results but it will dry out completely. Eventually.
That looks fantastic :)
I'd love to off road properly but in the UK your options are limited to paying for a couple of laps of an old quarry or meeting at a secret crossroads on the third moon after Michaelmas to exchange ancient scrolls containing the knowledge of the mystical Green Lanes - which have all been shut when you get there.
I love the way they're all out there as a family with a flock of XJs :) I'd love to be able to roam offroad that freely. I thought the stock Jeep did amazingly well, and it looked almost camo with the red/orange paint against those dunes and rocks. Amazing.
I've been to Colorado (20 years ago) and hiked down into/out of the Grand Canyon with a couple of nights in tents at the bottom by the river. The countryside out there is absolutely mind blowing.
Videos like this make me jealous!
Nothing! I'm teasing it by cleaning the Jeep instead :)
mad-as wrote:
i thought it worked both ways , to much extension and not enough collapsibility , if the shock will not compress to the bump stops it will bend the shock so you have to move the stops , also it will stretch your brake lines and abs lines if extended to far. you need to find out what the measurement is at min and max extension and compare with standard.
Yes, this too! But clearly not an issue now :)
Gilbertd wrote:
Compression will only go as far as the bumpstops just as it would with standard length shocks. It's extension that will cause a problem as the maximum extended length of the shocks is what limits the amount of axle movement. With longer than standard shocks it would be possible for the air springs to over-extend and pop off the end caps, stretch the brake hoses and damage the height sensors by allowing more movement than anything was designed for.
ahh, I was thinking about damaging the shocks by over-extending them, which wouldn't happen with longer shocks, not the springs.
Surely extension is fine, compression would be the issue?
That sounds like a real mission!
Most of the time we'd be better off with a windmill or a water wheel :)
Martyuk wrote:
I've fixed a few of them...
Mine probably comes down to backing into a wall, and putting a crunch in the rear bumper... or when I was offroading and bumped the RH Rear on part of a hill which has put a bit of a ding in it, but is mostly hidden by the finishing trim...
Or there was that one time I got my first P38 airborne, and the passenger (who was stupidly not wearing a seatbelt - but was actually surprisingly ok!) cracked the windscreen with his head...
The only one recently, which Sloth can attest to was somehow bending a pin when putting an ABS Modulator in and then having an all night mission to either swap the modulator back out, or try to straighten the pin. We got it straightened, brakes bled etc - and then a couple of weeks later I had to swap the modulator again as the brake pedal would sometimes just lose pressure and sink when you put your foot on it. If you hit it to stop, then it was fine. Deduced there must have been an internal leak in the replacement (I'd rebuilt it, and there was one part which was a pain to do - so probably that which caused it). Not got around to having another look at it.
Well Marty fixed my front prop shaft... I guess you could call that a cockup, although I'd put it down as ignorance and incompetence :)
I've told the story on here before, but suffice to say - if you suspect your UJs are gone, it's probably not a great idea to drive 4hrs on the motorway. In my defence, had I just swapped the UJs myself or at a local garage I'd still be looking for issues in the front end because it was Marty who decided to test the Viscous Coupling while he was under the Duchess. The VC was the root cause of all the worn out components and dodgy handling.
romanrob wrote:
In a bid to stop this thread turning into an exclusive gallery of a certain Monte Carlo blue RR, here are my two:
And very nice they are two. Did you use actual tape to blank out the number plates? :)
I'll have to post up a pic of my green machine soon - but the Monte Carlo effect has scared me off for now!
Back when I lived in Germany (late 90s) we reckoned you needed to be doing at least 120mph to be in the outside lane of an autobahn and even then I'd constantly check the mirror.
In a P38 you'll be in slow lane hell, waiting for gaps to get past the wagons moving at 99.9999 kph.
dave3d wrote:
If you are talking about the prop shaft bolts, as Tanis8472 mentioned, there is a special tool:
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/propshaft-socket-drive-land-rover-laser-6151-da1119-ba3138-p-37830.html
Yes, it is thin walled, so it fits over the nuts.
It is still a pain though. The bottom ones and those within reach are easy enough to remove but you can't get to the bolts higher up without rotating the propshaft/wheel and you can't do that with the handbrake on. So you need to jack up one wheel, support it on an axle stand, take the handbrake off and rotate the wheel. Then put the handbrake back on before you crawl underneath.
It's a pain, but with the correct tool even I managed it - although it was coming off for the second time. Marty's impact had loosened it up about 300 miles before when we changed the UJs.
Follow the routine above for safety and it'll be fine.
I scraped The Duchess on the wall of a pub carpark - rear wheel arch. So that's never getting fixed :(
Harv wrote:
I've been using Castrol Edge/Syntech 5W40 per RAVE for our climate here. About $CAD35 for 4 litres at Costco.
Morat, do you add the ZDDP, or does it come blended in the oil? Should we be adding it?
Harv, I use Comma oil which is a UK based supplier to the industry who also have a retail arm. Some of their oils have high ZDDP for older engines. My Jeep 4.0 also has flat tappets/pushrods and it is recommended to use Zinc/ZDDP at about 1200ppm to prevent wear. Those engines regularly do 250-300k before rebuild so those little things can help. The flip-side is that ZDDP was removed from modern motor oils as it will eventually poison the catalytic convertors. My position is that aftermarket cats are a lot cheaper than a top-end rebuild and if you run on LPG you don't really need them anyway.
StrangeRover - that's very useful info on the changes in handbook recommendations through the years. I suspect (but only suspect) that the gradual reduction in recommended viscosity has more to do with Fuel Economy than lubrication. By 2001 manufacturers were under much greater scrutiny for their fleet average consumption and lighter oil gives slightly improved figures.
That info certainly gives me more confidence to change to a higher viscosity oil as recommended by Richard and V8 developments.
Hmmm. After a quick Google:
https://tinyurl.com/uu49948 (ebay link to 5w50)
Not bad on ZDDP or price.
500 miles per oil change/filter? That's really nothing at all!
Harv wrote:
I'm curious about the reason for carrying a Dremel. (It's possible that in the UK it means something different than it does here, to me it's a tiny grinding tool and I can't imagine a use for it on the trail.)
You can get an emery pad for them, it really speeds up your nightly nail routine!
Always remember, being a mod is about helping users. I've seen too many people regard it as a "promotion"!
It's not high tech -just a different weight. I'm interested that the recommendation from V8 Dev is so different from Rovers - do they build the engine to different tolerances?
I'm on 5w40 at the moment, with plenty of ZDDP for the valves but I might come back to 10w40 next time round. She does have a slight rattle on start up. I'm in two camps really, she's not driven every day so I don't know if the thicker oil would stay in place or if the thinner (when cold) oil is better as it gets to the valve gear very quickly.
Edit 5w40 not 5w50. Sorry!