Well, that escalated!
It sounds like you'll have a really good engine when you're done :)
At the risk of sounding like a broken record to those who've read the thread: It's worth checking the Viscous Coupling. If it is seized it will cause erratic handling and also excessive wear on the front propshaft UJs and possibly front diff. With your tyre swapping antics it might not be clear but I'd expect worn front tyres. That could be the reason your fronts were knackered when you got it, or just worn tyres. Hard to say now!
I changed the same list of parts as you when chasing my issue. All of them gave a slight improvement but it was the Viscous that was the root cause and driving home was a revelation.
To test it, disconnect the front propshaft at the Transfer Case, and turn the TC output shaft with a large torque wrench.
More details here:
https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/viscous-couplings/range-rover-viscous-coupling.html
In the absence of a Torque Wrench, a calibrated Kiwi is a good option :)
I don't think so as they are technically roads, just un-surfaced. There was a recent change in the law designed to remove rights to drive on Green Lanes which has made it a lot more difficult because you have to prove continuous use of the lane or it changes status to something only accessible to non-motorised traffic. But I'm getting out of my depth.
The bottom line is that 4x4 is only really practical on private land.
Or buy a new load of dessicant for pennies....
I went nuts and bought the whole assembly for £30.
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/suspension-dryer-dunlop-ntc9812-p-591.html
Hiking is also limited to the designated routes. Hikers have the most access, but if there's no right of way on the map you're trespassing.
I probably will join a group once the lockdown is lifted but I don't get a lot of time away from the keyboard and out in the room with the big blue roof!
When they're working properly, they don't get hot. Mine is running more than it should (I think it's due to a pitted NRV in the valve block) but it doesn't bounce off the thermal limit.
There is a mapping app but it is owned and run by the Green Lanes association. You have to join to get access. I probably should.
The other option is to go to the local council and look at the "Definitive Map" which will tell you what is where, but the legal situation is complicated here since the only trails you can legally offroad (unless you own the land) are ancient roads which were never surfaced. Many of them have been legally shut to motor vehicles over the years and many others are impassable.
Even if you find a Green Lane that is legal, it may well have been served with a TRO due to damage/mud/potential damage to the track which isn't necessarily very temporary.
Basically this is a very crowded island so you'll always bump into someone and it can get a bit tribal between Hikers, Cyclists, Horse Riders, and people in 4x4s or motorbikes.
Impressive - that's a lot of unleaded! :)
Not that I'd ever recommend an actual bodge... but a Short Term Remedy might include some self amalgamating tape, or even heat shrink?
That's the sort of story that my wife should never hear!!
I wonder how popular P38s actually were with thieves in their heyday...
Gilbertd wrote:
If using the free software, you can only set one height at a time. So put the blocks in for high, let it sit on the blocks, read the heights and write those. Then fit the next set and repeat. When I made my blocks I found getting the low profile ones out of the bumpstops was the hardest part of the whole job. So I drilled and tapped an M6 thread in the end so I can screw an M6 bolt in and use that so I've got something to get hold of and pull them out.
This certainly can be a pain, especially if you have nice new bump stops.
Well Mr Strange, this is something that I managed to do..
I bought some Delrin from here:
https://www.directplastics.co.uk/delrin-rod
and cut it to these lengths:
Front
High Profile 140mm
Standard profile 100mm
Low Profile 75mm
Access Profile 35mm
Rear
High Profile145mm
Standard Profile105mm
Low Profile 80mm
Access Profile 40mm
and calibrated with the all powerful Nanocom.
It's all recorded in excruciating detail here:
https://rangerovers.pub/topic/1036-a-bit-of-a-list?page=2.0#pid16198
My Chopsaw came with a pretty tame blade with lots of small teeth so I survived fine :)
Can I just check... are you going to drive this thing or park it in your dining room and eat off it? :)
The lazy man's approach is to get a couple of buckets of Damp Rid, park it in the sun and leave the windows shut. Don't expect quick results but it will dry out completely. Eventually.
That looks fantastic :)
I'd love to off road properly but in the UK your options are limited to paying for a couple of laps of an old quarry or meeting at a secret crossroads on the third moon after Michaelmas to exchange ancient scrolls containing the knowledge of the mystical Green Lanes - which have all been shut when you get there.
I love the way they're all out there as a family with a flock of XJs :) I'd love to be able to roam offroad that freely. I thought the stock Jeep did amazingly well, and it looked almost camo with the red/orange paint against those dunes and rocks. Amazing.
I've been to Colorado (20 years ago) and hiked down into/out of the Grand Canyon with a couple of nights in tents at the bottom by the river. The countryside out there is absolutely mind blowing.
Videos like this make me jealous!
Nothing! I'm teasing it by cleaning the Jeep instead :)
mad-as wrote:
i thought it worked both ways , to much extension and not enough collapsibility , if the shock will not compress to the bump stops it will bend the shock so you have to move the stops , also it will stretch your brake lines and abs lines if extended to far. you need to find out what the measurement is at min and max extension and compare with standard.
Yes, this too! But clearly not an issue now :)
Gilbertd wrote:
Compression will only go as far as the bumpstops just as it would with standard length shocks. It's extension that will cause a problem as the maximum extended length of the shocks is what limits the amount of axle movement. With longer than standard shocks it would be possible for the air springs to over-extend and pop off the end caps, stretch the brake hoses and damage the height sensors by allowing more movement than anything was designed for.
ahh, I was thinking about damaging the shocks by over-extending them, which wouldn't happen with longer shocks, not the springs.