Gilbert, do you happen to know if the fuel pump is a Range Rover or BMW part? After what you said it seems more likely that Mazz1 will be able to a BMW specialist than a competent Range Rover one.

What a pain in the arse :(
Don't be tempted to run it FWD only or you'll soon be in the same boat as me with a knackered Viscous Unit...

Well, there's always www.shipley.com
I don't know what the prices are like for a P38 that won't drive onto the trailer - can yours make it that far?

For my money Marty, I think you're right. Once you've got the coolant system and ancillaries back together just crank it. See how it sounds and if it pressurises. Then if it come up to temp and stabilises do your sniff test and with a bit of luck you'll be good to go. Maybe wear wellies on the test drive? ;)

You could pull the valve covers and check for obvious cracks I guess - I'm not sure if there's a "usual place" where these engines like to crack their heads, I know it's between 3 and 4 on a BMW M20B25 and between 2 and 3 on an AMC/Jeep 4.0 but they're both I6 engines - I haven't had that "pleasure" with a Rover V8 yet....

Perhaps you could ask them what diagnostics they have. If they something generic like "Snap On" then it might be time to explain that P38s are only minimally compliant to OBDII and they require custom diagnostics for anything unusual and these systems are rare and expensive. Then get a "specialist" down with a nanocom - not that any of us are particularly close by, unfortunately :(

Yes, it's partly BS but nothing compared with what they've been spouting and it could give them a face-saving way out.

Marty, I often have those feelings and it was you helping me out with The Duchess that has kept her in the fleet - even if she is in mothballs/slow rebuild condition right now. It knowing what is wrong and having a plan that works for me. Not knowing the problem and feeling like you're standing on the edge of a huge debt-cliff that scares the pants off me!

As for the coolant system I think it's really important to know if your coolant cap is faulty or whether the Audi core was weak. Maybe if you have a spare coolant bottle you could pressurise it with the old cap in place and see what PSI it gets to before release but either way I'd definitely get a brand new genuine cap from LR for SNOG because as you now know, overpressurised coolant is very bad news.

Also you if you have space you can keep one running and one spare :)
Or do it like the Navy: One Working, one ready, one in refit...

...only half joking btw

Mazz1 wrote:

Have to do these replies in short messages as it times out!!!
It looks, at the moment, like I am going to have to purchase some new wheels. Not looking forward to that!!!! Probably, knowing my luck, I will get something that will have problems and the hiccups will start all over again!!! Not being able to get about and my own thing is doing my head in. I am probably too independent but that is me. Hiring something which does not give me pain to drive would mean spending a lot more money. If I did not have the issue with my leg the cost would not be quite so bad but cost it would. Don't get me wrong. I could so easily, according to the consultant, have lost my leg from the knee down. I didn't, thanks to him, but it has left me with the problem when driving. Small cars have the pedals too close together and twisting my foot to get from one pedal to the other really is uncomfortable and I end up with my size 9s on both, if I am not careful.
So. Now to think what to do. To be honest. I haven't a clue.

Maybe you've tried this, but how do you get on with left foot braking in an automatic?

Personally, I'm with Green Flag.

Sorry to hear your woes Marty :( Sounds like a good decision to get out of the way of traffic - a dozy wagon driver is all you need for a catastrophe in that situation.

Good luck with the engine, shame it's such a new built one - it was running beautifully a couple of weeks back.

Let us know what turned out to be the weak spot in the cooling system, coolant into the cabin isn't a great failure mode. IME cars generally boil out of the reservoir which is safer even if you still end up walking. BMW had a recall on some models' coolant caps to prevent exactly this type of incident - did Range Rover?

For the forums:

If you are writing a long post, this forum will sometimes "time out" with a "CRF token expired" error. I think it's CRF. Anyway, if you hit back the text is usually preserved and you can copy/paste it into a new post after refreshing the page. This can be a bit tricky, so the best thing to do is probably to write out your post on Word or Notepad and cut/paste it into your post in one go.

So, how long have you had this vehicle and where did you buy it from. Has it ever run correctly in your ownership?
How far from Portsmouth do you live?
It also might be handy to know what problems you have encountered so far and what steps have been taken to fix them.

Well, I've snipped the blue/white wire on the switch side of the connector to stop the door latch saying the door is ajar (connects to the purple/white wire on the door side). Sadly the little clip that keeps the loom out of the way of the window must have fallen out so now there's some taping up to be done :/

But, now I can shut and lock the vehicle without the alarm going off every few hours and hopefully that will let the BeCM go to sleep and let the battery catch up again!

Still got the viscous to do... but I'm taking her Ladyship out tonight for her birthday. I don't think that the smell of ATF would be appreciated :)

Mine is a smart charger, with four stages - just not a huge one. I'm thinking Solar just to keep things topped up and avoid running cables out the front of the garage. I've seen THIS one on Amazon that connects through the OBD port.

Right, I'll hook it up tonight and see how it goes!
Cheers all.

Thanks Folks!
I'll look up the specs on my charger again, but it's only a tiddler with a 10A fuse on the 12V output. A trickle charger is definitely the correct solution. Maybe even solar in the current weather?

Dumb question time again!
The battery on the Duchess is low, good enough to run the systems but not enough to crank. Can I hook up my (not particularly powerful) charger straight in there and avoid all the tedious window setting, radio codes etc?
It isn't a trickle charger, but seeing as you can hook up a whole car to jump start I don't see why it would be an issue except various google searches warn against this.

So, I thought I'd ask experts instead of Google :)

edit: very low :( 8.1V

**Crossposted from Opening Time

Martyuk wrote:

Morat wrote:

It's longer than mine but there's honestly a lot of stuff there that you could knock off in pretty short order.

If you want to compare....

1. Viscous Coupling (arrived yesterday)
2. Nasty scratch/dent above rear left wheel arch. This needs proper surgery and probably a replacement door. Super annoying as she had great bodywork when I bought her.
3. CD player just shows "Error"
4. Sat Nav doesn't get a signal
5. I think the mid speaker in the driver's door card is dead

She's drivable but I don't want to put any more miles on her until the viscous is replaced or it'll just wear out the front tyres even more and damage the UJs and diff at the front. I'm tempted to DIY but not that tempted. I'll need a prop tool and probably a gear puller.

3/4 probably mean "Android head unit" but that'll have to wait.
5 Yeah I should do that. One day.

I'd probably get a few more propshaft nuts... at least a couple of the new ones i put on at the back were already starting to round... even with the propshaft nut tool! The access to the nuts at the back is a PITA because of the angle it comes off at. You'll probably get another use out of them anyway, and they aren't done up stupid tight - but up to you... They're 3/8 UNF and an be had on the likes of eBay in packs of 10, probably cheaper than what a LR place would sell them to you!

Marty, I appreciate this post. I'm currently getting the Jeep through the MOT which needed tyres and is going to consume my spare funds (quite apart from Her Ladyship's Birthday and two weeks holiday!)

BUT, thinking about it:

I'll jack up one side this weekend and see how the rear propshaft looks. I know it's in better shape than the front was - but that's not saying much :)

For the front I reckon I'll need:

New nuts/bolts, a couple of litres of Dex III and some RTV should sort it.
On the tools front, I've already got a breaker bar with 1/2" end. I'll need a pumpy bottle thing (like this? https://tinyurl.com/y5cb4ohg) and a propshaft nut tool which seem to be available from most LR sites in 1/4 and 1/2" drive.
Some say you need a gear puller to get the viscous unit out but Marty reckons some wood and careful hammering should be OK.
I've seen mention of a bearing that needs to be swapped over, not sure about that one..

I'm off this weekend but only because it's a busy one for the family. I'll probably start stockpiling the parts and have a go next month.

Apparently Zinc Chromate is the stuff for etch priming Aluminium but it's carcinogenic and quite rare.

I was thinking of the steel bit, surely the Al shoudln't be rusting?

https://www.bilthamber.com/electrox

have a go with some of that...

Mint!!
But check that viscous or it's £320 to Ashcrofts :(