Looks nice a rather nice Cahors, cheers! 😀
Surely change the fluid and see how it goes? Unless you really like messing with auto boxes.
Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious
I'll start the bidding at 1hr20 each way.
Handy for when you get that sinking feeling ;)
I guess your door seals are OK then :)
That's always a scary moment! Well done for keeping your foot in it or you'd have flooded for certain!
RutlandRover wrote:
Morat wrote:
and the second one: Exactly what parts and tools do we need to achieve this?
I've started a list of the parts I'd need to replace all the bushes, joints, nuts and bolts for the suspension and steering here:
https://1drv.ms/x/s!AojTrWb43XFxg5lmuUy2czXdi4tyCQ
Struggling to find the track rod and drag link in LR Cat though.
Also struggling to find dimensions for a couple of the bolts - the bolts are much cheaper if you shop for the bolts using the dimensions rather than the LR part numbers you can find them much cheaper.
The exception might be ANR1187/ANR6920. This is the front bolt for the rear radius arm. It's M16 but I can't find the length. Images show it has a slight step in the shank. I've no idea if this step is important if a regular M16 x whatever bolt would be OK.
The file is editable if anyone finds any superceded parts I've missed - or if you can find the dimensions it's missing!
RutlandRover wrote:
Morat wrote:
and the second one: Exactly what parts and tools do we need to achieve this?
I've started a list of the parts I'd need to replace all the bushes, joints, nuts and bolts for the suspension and steering here:
https://1drv.ms/x/s!AojTrWb43XFxg5lmuUy2czXdi4tyCQ
Struggling to find the track rod and drag link in LR Cat though.
Also struggling to find dimensions for a couple of the bolts - the bolts are much cheaper if you shop for the bolts using the dimensions rather than the LR part numbers you can find them much cheaper.
The exception might be ANR1187/ANR6920. This is the front bolt for the rear radius arm. It's M16 but I can't find the length. Images show it has a slight step in the shank. I've no idea if this step is important if a regular M16 x whatever bolt would be OK.
The file is editable if anyone finds any superceded parts I've missed - or if you can find the dimensions it's missing!
That's a super helpful list thank you!
Just in case anyone is still to change their front radius arm bushes, I put the same numbers into Island4x4 and it came out a bit cheaper (front bushes were £15 each, although the 2 rears were a fiver). I hope they're genuine LR as advertised!
I'm getting excited to have decent steering again :)
but... those kids aren't going to WALK to school you know!
On all of the nuts? I think you're describing the security nuts, you need to remove the cover first.
Great feeling :)
I had a similar issue on my Jeep once - HT lead grounding isn't always easy to spot.
I don't think low ratio causes wind up on P38s because they have a viscous centre diff, vehicles with a locking centre diff do get wind up (like most defenders) so he's not totally wrong. I suspect you'll find your gear change works better once everything has re-adjusted to running on 8 cylinders. Drive it and let it relearn. Enjoy! :)
My UJs are squealing :(
Sorry but the vid isn't easy to diagnose - do you have any quiet roads nearby?
That looked like a real mission!
So all we have to do is nag you to fix the air-con before winter :)
Jesus, I can't make out anything on that photo let alone an airspring!
Don't laugh but it's also worth checking your wheel nuts. And it's free!
I've registered both LPG vehicles with the LPG people and the DVLA, not quite sure why.
Duh... I'm so thick.
Thank you!
Hi folks,
I managed to flatten the battery... I opened up the drivers door using the key, opened the bonnet. Opened the driver's side passenger door while looking for jump leads and then hooked up a spare battery.
The alarm went off.
The dash showed keycode lockout and all the window/sunroof not set warnings.
I tried the nanocom and it locked up with "unable to communicate to ECU" showing above the EKA entry screen).
Restarted the nanocom same deal
Restarted the Nanocom, put the key in posn0 tried looking at other parts of the BECM menu then went to EKA unlock,
Entered the code, heard some relays clicking but no doorlocks.
Dash still shows "keycode lockout" and "Engine disabled". The key flashes red when I push the buttons, but no joy.
Went to work in the Jeep!
Have I got a very sick BECM or is there something else I should try?
Gilbertd wrote:
Lpgc wrote:
Potential inconvenience with the filler fitted so close to the towball if you do a lot of towing though?
Bearing in mind that I probably fill up just as often with a trailer on as not, nope, never had a problem with any filler, Dvissier, Gasguard, various continental Italian cup fillers (there's 2 or 3 different ones) and Acme. As long as the trailer is straight or off to the right, access is simple.
It does make a difference with Bike Racks though. When I've got a tow ball mounted bike rack on, I'm glad of having the gas connection off centre. The rack (and bikes) make more of a barrier than a typical trailer hitch.
heh it's not losing any fluids right now (beyond the usual requirement to top up the oil). I think there's a leak in the back of the EAS somewhere.
Just posting to say that I didn't see the post either.
Congrats on fixing your compressor though. My RR looks like a Basset Hound bitch taking a piss. There's not a huge angle, but enough to let you know that something is going on.