Hmm, mine have been in for... err. 19k? Then again, she did take a while to fire up all 8 after she'd been sitting for a few weeks.
Toasty! I remember driving a black Fiat Coupe through France in summer when the aircon quit. Luckily GF of the time was a heat-o-phile but I was a mess!
It's longer than mine but there's honestly a lot of stuff there that you could knock off in pretty short order.
If you want to compare....
She's drivable but I don't want to put any more miles on her until the viscous is replaced or it'll just wear out the front tyres even more and damage the UJs and diff at the front. I'm tempted to DIY but not that tempted. I'll need a prop tool and probably a gear puller.
3/4 probably mean "Android head unit" but that'll have to wait.
5 Yeah I should do that. One day.
RutlandRover wrote:
If anyone is reasonably local we meet at The Royal Oak in Cossington on the first Wednesday of every month from about 7:30 but some people turn up early and have dinner there.
Morat wrote:
I think we need to investigate this as a club/forum!
Also, my Father in Law lives in Rutland so I could kill two birds :)Whereabouts in Rutland? I used to live in Uppingham.
He lives in Exton, I'm not sure what the village purity committee would think of muddy 4x4s :)
For the Duchess? :)
Seized VCU which means the front half of the drivetrain is under a lot of stress. I don't know how long it has been knackered but the front diff popped a couple of years ago and maybe the VCU was seized then. The current front diff is whining despite being only about 12k old.
Anyway, the VC needs to be changed before it undoes all the good work from this weekend. We replaced the UJs in the front prop-shaft, Marty donated the rear flange from a spare prop which meant she was up and running again. Then we changed the front radius arm bushes which went incredibly smoothly. That was all done by 1730 so we had dinner at the hotel :)
This morning Marty was going to replace my door latch but it quickly became obvious that the drivers door latch was actually fine, it was the Door Ajar wire that had corroded through and snapped. Marty did a repair there and then discovered a similar wiring/connector issue at the door outstation end of the loom which he fixed as well.
The door now works properly too!
Then we spent some time swapping Marty's brakes over for new calipers all round and I had a leg workout during the bleed procedure. After looking through Marty's impressive pile of transfer cases it became obvious that all the VCs were toast so his generous offer of a good second hand unit didn't work out.
I was back home by 1930 :)
So, I need to replace the Viscous asap but Marty gave me one of his knackered ones so I can get a replacement from Ashcroft before taking The Duchess apart again which should make things easier. I'm not sure if I fancy doing that in the driveway so I might let the garage have a go at that one!
I'll have a close look at the rear prop and maybe swap those UJs too now that I know how to do it. They'll get greased at the very least! I'll also be greasing the UJs on my Jeep which uses UJs instead of CV joints at the front wheels as well as the UJs in the prop shaft.
Once again - HUGE THANKS to Marty for sharing his knowledge, workshop, tools and generally being a very generous chap. Without you, The Duchess would be a wreck by now and I'd be sad.
Well I made it to the hotel.
But as I turned into the parking space BANG clunk clunk clunk. It did sound very much like a diff. Rut roh!
That's like Marty's door latch test kit. Homemade and massively impressive :)
I think we need to investigate this as a club/forum!
Also, my Father in Law lives in Rutland so I could kill two birds :)
heheeh.
sadly, moving the prop doesn't help. I need one of these, I reckon: https://tinyurl.com/y6ad7akn not for the locking thing (although that would help) but because it has a smaller cross section that the thing I've got. I could use a needle one, but more faff.
But I'm out of time.
OK, well I've now got a grease-gun, grease (Lithium ASGII) and a bendy hose for it. I'll see if I can find where to stick the grease!
edit: Grrr, need a narrower fitting to reach the nipples :(
OK, sounds good as I did buy a couple of bearmach greasable ones.
Here's the vid if you want to confirm, although the aircon was running which makes it hard to hear until the end :(
The main question is: would you drive it to Swindon (4hrs)?
Are they permanently heated like some BMW door mirrors?
With a day off I've slung a battery in The Duchess and I'm trying to get ready for the annual pilgrimage to Swindon so familiar to P38 owners. This time it's Radius Arm Bushes because I missed the meet.
I'm a little concerned setting off as she makes a nice loud cheep noise related to road speed. It's most obvious when coasting, disappears under power and for a Brucey Bonus there's vibration when coasting downhill. Steering left/right makes no appreciable difference. There's a reasonable amount of clonking during low speed manouvring too but I'm putting that down to the radius arm bushes. I did think it might be UJs in the driveshaft but wiggled the front one earlier (by hand) and it seemed solid side/side. It looked nice and fresh too, it that's any indication.
She's getting washed right now but when I get her back I'm going to get her up in the air (as far as I can with the standard jack). What should I poke/prod/pull when trying to diagnose? I'll try to get a video as well.
Looks nice a rather nice Cahors, cheers! 😀
Surely change the fluid and see how it goes? Unless you really like messing with auto boxes.
Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious
I'll start the bidding at 1hr20 each way.
Handy for when you get that sinking feeling ;)
I guess your door seals are OK then :)
That's always a scary moment! Well done for keeping your foot in it or you'd have flooded for certain!
RutlandRover wrote:
Morat wrote:
and the second one: Exactly what parts and tools do we need to achieve this?
I've started a list of the parts I'd need to replace all the bushes, joints, nuts and bolts for the suspension and steering here:
https://1drv.ms/x/s!AojTrWb43XFxg5lmuUy2czXdi4tyCQ
Struggling to find the track rod and drag link in LR Cat though.
Also struggling to find dimensions for a couple of the bolts - the bolts are much cheaper if you shop for the bolts using the dimensions rather than the LR part numbers you can find them much cheaper.
The exception might be ANR1187/ANR6920. This is the front bolt for the rear radius arm. It's M16 but I can't find the length. Images show it has a slight step in the shank. I've no idea if this step is important if a regular M16 x whatever bolt would be OK.
The file is editable if anyone finds any superceded parts I've missed - or if you can find the dimensions it's missing!
RutlandRover wrote:
Morat wrote:
and the second one: Exactly what parts and tools do we need to achieve this?
I've started a list of the parts I'd need to replace all the bushes, joints, nuts and bolts for the suspension and steering here:
https://1drv.ms/x/s!AojTrWb43XFxg5lmuUy2czXdi4tyCQ
Struggling to find the track rod and drag link in LR Cat though.
Also struggling to find dimensions for a couple of the bolts - the bolts are much cheaper if you shop for the bolts using the dimensions rather than the LR part numbers you can find them much cheaper.
The exception might be ANR1187/ANR6920. This is the front bolt for the rear radius arm. It's M16 but I can't find the length. Images show it has a slight step in the shank. I've no idea if this step is important if a regular M16 x whatever bolt would be OK.
The file is editable if anyone finds any superceded parts I've missed - or if you can find the dimensions it's missing!
That's a super helpful list thank you!
Just in case anyone is still to change their front radius arm bushes, I put the same numbers into Island4x4 and it came out a bit cheaper (front bushes were £15 each, although the 2 rears were a fiver). I hope they're genuine LR as advertised!
I'm getting excited to have decent steering again :)