Not in my experience, luckily!
It's effectively an extension of the ABS function (IF low speed AND brake applied - release brake, IF Spinning and Brake off - apply brake) and I hope ABS is mature enough by now to always fail safe. Hope :)
Change your fob batteries first! :)
The new Suzuki Jimny uses a very similar system and all the reviewers seem happy with it!
It's a better system than a clutch type LSD because the bits that wear our are just the pads/disks rather than LSD clutch packs which inevitably fail eventually.
In use, there's a bit of delay between the wheel spinning and the system braking it which can make a new driver back off, but once you're in the know you can just give enough throttle for mild wheel spin and the TC will sort it out.
The ultimate option is to fit a geared LSD like a Tru-trac, Ashcroft ATB or even a Quaife (if you're very rich). The TC will do the same job but the diffs will direct torque from the slipping wheel to the gripping one and you don't burn fuel just heating up your brakes :)
I bypassed my throttle body heater by running that single ply silicon hose direct to the header tank from the top of the engine. It's been fine ever since. I don't know whether you get bad icing conditions in your part of the US but in the UK it's been fine. My question is "how necessary is the throttle body heater?" because it's a poor design and the gasket always fails. Clearly they put it on for a reason, but if that reason was due to testing in a Norwegian Winter I'm not so bothered.
Make him feel better, go on :)
Those Sainsbury's car washes are pretty good, it's the only one near me that sprays underneath (the only bit that really matters!)
For me, they're ugly but that's obviously a matter of taste. What would put me off is rust. Car Cancer is just so damn expensive to fix compared to the bolt on bits required for a P38. If you're a good welder/fabricator/bodywork guy then fair enough :)
I'm in a quandary. Her Ladyship has booked me for the Sunday so I'm a bit kippered :( I've been quiet on the subject due to complete cowardice.
But if this is the date that works for the majority then do please go ahead.
Don't stress too much about wrinkles in the handle recesses - they get covered over by the handles. If you worry about those fiddly bits too much you might compromise the large flat areas that are obvious the whole time.
Also, make sure you have clean hands before handling the trim that surrounds the sunroof hole - mine is still quite grubby!
Overall though, I'm still absolutely stoked with the result we got.
Quick disconnects for the roll bars are very common in the Jeep world, you might have a look at them for inspiration?
https://www.quadratec.com/vehicle/1984-2001-cherokee-xj/lift-kits-and-suspension/sway-bar/quick-disconnect-end-links for example
Which, I have to say, is a miraculous level of support for a 20 year old vehicle. Hats off to the kiwi chap (and his tree hanging buddy).
Which might explain why the radius arm bushes need replacing at 120k (in my case)!
As for fuel economy, it's a bit worse than petrol (about 10%) but it generally costs half as much.
I'm a bit grumpy about LPG at the moment. The garage which is literally round the corner from the new house stopped doing LPG as we moved in. Apparently this is due to a till upgrade that didn't work with their old LPG pump. The next nearest one was bought up by BP and stopped doing LPG for a variety of reas.. excuses which basically ended up with "we don't know, I just work here".
Anyway, if you have access to LPG - it's a great option for any suitable car. The best one I've had so far was a E46 BMW 330i which worked out about 11p per mile if you flogged it mercilessly. Not bad for a 155mph estate!
My P38 gets between 2.3-2.5 miles per litre in normal use on back roads and short trips and closer to 3 miles per litre on the motorway.
Our nearest ASDA is selling at 52.7ppl, Petrol for 123p so to fill the LPG tank from empty costs £37.95 but the same amount of petrol costs £88.56!
He should be! Nice plug btw :D
LOL, gotta love all the foibles :)
Well, I've just managed to get one from a breaker (ACD Lancashire) which will be arriving tomorrow. The garage will now be chopping the old one off... It's a bit of a shame but as Richards said, I can't be driving around with an MOT failure.
Yeah, I suspect some muppet has put red loctite on it :( It's quite possible the wheel isn't the original because it has numbers written on it in black pen which might have been a breaker's stock number or ebay ID.
I need to replace the clockspring so that the horn, cruise and airbag work again. I'm not sure if clockpring is the UK term (it being a US vehicle) but it's the box of tricks that connects from the vehicle chassis to the steering wheel and allows for rotation of the wheel. The part was £80 and it should have been a painless DIY if the puller had done the trick :(
Heat failed too :(
Apart from the cost of a new wheel is there a particular reason I should avoid cutting the old one off?
JMCLuimni wrote:
Don’t cut the steering wheel off.....
Get a can of BLASTER PB and spray it on the connection. Leave it overnight. The steering wheel will come off but you need to be patient and when doing so pull really hard in various spots of steering wheel. It’s a pain in the hole to do it but it will come off. It took me the bones of an hour.
Don’t cut the steering wheel.....
Sadly, it has had several doses of PB Blaster over quite a few days, no dice.