Quick disconnects for the roll bars are very common in the Jeep world, you might have a look at them for inspiration?
https://www.quadratec.com/vehicle/1984-2001-cherokee-xj/lift-kits-and-suspension/sway-bar/quick-disconnect-end-links for example
Which, I have to say, is a miraculous level of support for a 20 year old vehicle. Hats off to the kiwi chap (and his tree hanging buddy).
Which might explain why the radius arm bushes need replacing at 120k (in my case)!
As for fuel economy, it's a bit worse than petrol (about 10%) but it generally costs half as much.
I'm a bit grumpy about LPG at the moment. The garage which is literally round the corner from the new house stopped doing LPG as we moved in. Apparently this is due to a till upgrade that didn't work with their old LPG pump. The next nearest one was bought up by BP and stopped doing LPG for a variety of reas.. excuses which basically ended up with "we don't know, I just work here".
Anyway, if you have access to LPG - it's a great option for any suitable car. The best one I've had so far was a E46 BMW 330i which worked out about 11p per mile if you flogged it mercilessly. Not bad for a 155mph estate!
My P38 gets between 2.3-2.5 miles per litre in normal use on back roads and short trips and closer to 3 miles per litre on the motorway.
Our nearest ASDA is selling at 52.7ppl, Petrol for 123p so to fill the LPG tank from empty costs £37.95 but the same amount of petrol costs £88.56!
He should be! Nice plug btw :D
LOL, gotta love all the foibles :)
Well, I've just managed to get one from a breaker (ACD Lancashire) which will be arriving tomorrow. The garage will now be chopping the old one off... It's a bit of a shame but as Richards said, I can't be driving around with an MOT failure.
Yeah, I suspect some muppet has put red loctite on it :( It's quite possible the wheel isn't the original because it has numbers written on it in black pen which might have been a breaker's stock number or ebay ID.
I need to replace the clockspring so that the horn, cruise and airbag work again. I'm not sure if clockpring is the UK term (it being a US vehicle) but it's the box of tricks that connects from the vehicle chassis to the steering wheel and allows for rotation of the wheel. The part was £80 and it should have been a painless DIY if the puller had done the trick :(
Heat failed too :(
Apart from the cost of a new wheel is there a particular reason I should avoid cutting the old one off?
JMCLuimni wrote:
Don’t cut the steering wheel off.....
Get a can of BLASTER PB and spray it on the connection. Leave it overnight. The steering wheel will come off but you need to be patient and when doing so pull really hard in various spots of steering wheel. It’s a pain in the hole to do it but it will come off. It took me the bones of an hour.
Don’t cut the steering wheel.....
Sadly, it has had several doses of PB Blaster over quite a few days, no dice.
The local garage have failed to get the steering wheel off :(
They're going to cut it off if I can get another one from a breaker.
Sorry, it's not RR related but hey. Fun and games!
A pony? Have you seen the emissions on those things? EARTH MURDERER!!!!!!
:D
I'm sure petrol will still be available in 8 years time, but availability will fall pretty sharply once production switches to electric vehicles because the motor trade will want everyone to buy new cars.
Although LPG forecourts are becoming a little tricky to find since BP stopped stocking LPG, it'll still be available to those with a bit of ingenuity because it is used for things like domestic heating and cooking. Running off an orange cylinder might not be legal or convenient but I'm sure it'd be possible to rig up some form of refueling system in extremis.
Then we need Simon to crack the issue of starting a cold multipoint system on LPG!
Yeah, I've no idea what steel it is. It just came out of the "Coach bolt" selection at the local hardwarw place.
Keeping the puller straight is the real issue. Once I start getting decent tension on it, the puller just flops over.
There's not enough space for washers behind the wheel so I think my next plan is either to find a puller with bigger slots or to drill the holes to the size of the biggest bolts that fit the puller (m8, like the thread that pulled out) use nuts behind the wheel again and hope the tighter holes keep the puller straight so I can get even more tension on it.
edit: It's a 4.8 steel bolt, so about half the strength of 8.8 Ah well, I doubt even a really strong bolt would have helped when pulling sideways :(
I know M12 sounds a little excessive but here's what happened to the M6 bolts when I tried them:
Thanks!
but kinda irrelevant at the moment as the M12 bolts won't fit in the puller :(
ARSEcakes.
Time for plan D
So do these taps need me to back up every half turn? Or will they shoot the crap out of the far end of the hole?
I've stuck the files I'm using up here:
http://www.lard.me.uk/duchess/nav/NAV_DB.rar
Worth a punt!
I appreciate the info, Clive.
This is my tap/die set. Cheap as you guessed! https://www.screwfix.com/p/tap-die-set-20-pieces/7105v?_requestid=612229
but well reviewed.. I'll try and find something to practice on, not sure what at the moment!
I'll definitely get some M12 nuts to stiffen it all up. I'll probably have a go tomorrow night, Monday night is gym night so it was dark when I got back.
Cheers!