Aragorn wrote:
On the other hand, your original ones have lasted nearly 20 years without grease nipples...
I generally pit the awkwardness of a job, the time it takes, and the possible collateral damage should it fail, against the cost of the parts.
If the only options were £7 for bearmach and £90 for genuine landrover, well i'd be taking the cheap ones.
But the difference between £7 for aftermarket and £12 for the hardy spicer joints is basically nothing. Certainly not worth risking it failing, either catastrophically, or even just getting noisey and having the hassle of another weekend spent bashing at the underside of a P38!
I'm with you. The OEM are actually a couple of quid more than Hardy Spicer in the greasable version and have 2 years vs 1 year warranty. Strangely, the non greasable Hary Spicer are more expensive than the OEM make. I know Spicer are good - the Jeep community fit nothing else but I went with the warranty this time.
You should see the owners manual for an Austin 7 - weekly grease checks!
I did wonder about the extension rod things - they look like a bad idea to me too! I think the Clarke recommended above will be mine next month. If both Sloth and Richard are happy with it, I'll go with it too.
I don't own any level ground but there's a nice concrete pad about 20 yards away that I used for my suspension calibration - just the ticket.
I'll put the 2 ton stands at the end I'm not working on... and wheels under the sills.
Dave - I'm going with a pair of those 6 ton stands. They look great. Thanks!
The OEM (the company not LR) have a 2 year warranty and the rest have a single year.
Bah. I'll be the guinea pig and report back. Hopefully not in 25 months!
I'm going with the grease nipple ones. My thinking is that The Duchess isn't seeing any extreme offroad use so ultimate strength should be less of a factor than wear and tear. Also, my Jeep recently had UJs with grease nipples fitted (the garage just did it) so I'm going to get a grease gun anyway.
Gilbert is right. Personal data relates to an identified or identifiable natural person. ie the data under consideration needs to describe an identified individual. If BT FON SSIDS said "DaveW'sAccesspoint" and then gave out your address, DoB, or other info there would be a problem.
Hang on, are you saying that the BT FON system releases personal data? (ie data that identifies an individual).
The fact that there's a BT hub in a certain property isn't personal information, but if a name or email address came up that's a different matter.
The wifi thing doesn't give away any personal information, so it's nothing to do with GDPR. Just very sharky practice very everyone's favourite monopoly :(
What I should really do is have a chat with my petrol head neighbour (whose track car has been on axle stands outside his house since summer) and we could remove the 2ft wide "flower bed" between our two driveways and replace it with a pit. I could even cover it with plywood and scatter woodchips back over it and no-one would know!
That machine mart jack looks ideal. thanks!
I'm sick of being scared of being under the Range Rover so I want to get a decent jack and some decent stands. The stands I have at the moment are only 2ton but they'll do for holding up axles, props etc.
Does anyone have any recommendations for a jack that would lift a P38 high enough for a fat bloke to get underneath? I'm looking to keep costs down as far as possible, I've got a lot of parts to buy :(
Thanks!
Marty took my dash out when we (he) did the heater core and swapped the heater box/flaps/motors for a re-con set. The ducts had already fallen apart anyway. They're only press fit and they seem to warp with the heat at the joints. It would have been a real faff to get them back together and taped up with the dash in place.
So, I definitely need to change some U Joints. I'm tempted to have a crack myself if I can get the P38 high enough up in the air for me to get myself underneath....
I have a couple of questions :)
Are bearmach any good for UJs? They seem ridiculously cheap...
Are all the UJs the same in the front and rear propshafts? I can't see any different part nos but I'd like to check before I buy the wrong ones.
It seems the perfect time of year to be rolling around underneath a vehicle!
Welcome Alan :) Sounds like you're having fun already!
What age/model have you got?
I was originally a bit disappointed by the OEM exhaust noise but now I really like how quiet it is, and outside the car there's a really deep sub-woofer feel to it :)
I've had cars that sit below the correct level before, but it's best to watch them like a hawk as you get less warning of an actual problem. In all probability Gilbert is right and you've got a slow leak but the only way to be sure about that is to mark the level and monitor for a week or two. If it actually sits still then fair enough but you'll probably find it's leaking out somewhere.
What colour coolant do you use? I've found the red OAT to be great for finding leaks compared with clear or even green. Changing over is a bit of a palaver though, you'd need to flush it properly.
yes, it's definitely not Feb....
So, I guess it's over to Marty for possible dates.
Have you got any clues as to your work and availability yet mate?
That's the same system BMW used on their E30 back in the 80s - it shouldn't really be a surprise for a "Professional"
Just to be contrary, my Audi heater core works fine - even plumbed in parallel.
Of course it'll explode now I've mentioned it.
Yeah the cup one is a bit pants. Very French :)