Forgive the dumb Q but can you sand the paint to remove the orange peel or will that just destroy the gloss finish?
Stand Down! :)
jacckk is right - there's a Dunlop arrow on the main body of the part. My eyes are getting old but it's visible. I guess I'll soon be underneath the Duchess again...
Hmm, it does indeed have Dunlop on the rubber gaitor bit... but is that enough?
I'm a bit grumpy :(
I ordered this: https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=ANR4687G+&x=0&y=0
and got this: https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/rear-height-sensor-9702-britpart-anr4687-sold-with-warranty-p-35227.html
I'm not very pleased with Island - especially as the part I got is marked "Sold with no warranty" across the top of the page!
Harumph :(
Commiserations you don't seem to be having much luck :(
Stop it, you bad man :)
I guess it all depends on Marty's work schedule really...
Any news, mate? :)
Duh, found it :)
In the How do I fix it thread. Thanks Gilbert!
I seem to have lost my copy of RAVE. Could someone link/send me one? It might be my imagination but I thought there was a link on a sticky on this forum but I might be dreaming. Or maybe Gordan was getting nasty letters?
Thanks!
I need a new one front left - it's a bit frilly and doesn't really like holding the rods.
In other news - I've calibrated the High Mode. I didn't bother with the rest because it's clear I definitely need a rear left hight sensor. Whenever you put the car into Wading mode it errors. You can also see the value change in strange ways when you watch on the Nanocom.
On the upside, the blocks are great! All I need now is a jack that will jack the body high enough for me to ge the Wading height blocks in (or figure out how to manually pump the car up high enough using the EAS and Nanocom).
OK, Jack it is! :(
I have blocks!
I can use the nano to write the values, and I can use High to drop to standard, etc but what is the sequence to get the EAS up high enough to get the longest blocks in? Inlet open and then both fronts. Close fronts, close inlet - repeat for rears?
Or should I open the inlet before the valves in the air springs?
The Horror!
Certainly the case in NI. I spent a day driving around in a "half armoured" car. It was armoured up to the glass. The official line was that the "dickers" would spot armoured glass so you were better off being able to duck behind the armoured body panels and you could return fire through the windows.
Our strong suspicion was that the dickers would know the car anyway because they didn't get swapped often enough and armoured glass was expensive!
I'll definitely do that when I move onto project #2 - Shelving!
In the meantime, the delrin is really slippery and I want a good smooth finish so I'm using a stop block for the measurement and a clamp on the "long" side. If I take about 2s to make the cut the blade leaves a really nice edge. Then I let the blade spin down to a stop before raising the saw because otherwise the teeth mark up the Delrin.
Then I spend 20 minutes with the hoover chasing plastic snow before the dogs get to it!
Mukiwa wrote:
I used an angle grinder and 2 x B&Q clamps to hold it down. I had molten plastic and spiders webs all over the kitchen hahahaha. Wife was not happy
Damnit, where's the LIKE button :)
Damnit! another 500mm showed up today. Thanks for the offer though. Do you want my offcuts for anything?
Ooh, what pump sprayer did you get? Any good?
You can always improve on the rover V8 but I'd be sceptical of big power claims this side of forced induction. The bigger question is how fast do you want to go, and are the transmission, drivetrain and suspension suitable?
If you've got the cash and access to a dyno, it would make an interesting thread!
Of course, by the time you've spent enough money to get a 300BHP P38 reliable and the handling sorted you could probably have bought yourself an MX5 or something else sporty for not a huge amount more.