You'll have to excuse my total igorance. Mild Grinding to me is something you'd risk on a dance floor in the 90s....
While I'm being thick - would this https://tinyurl.com/ybqvqc8p be a suitable replacement for the nut that's about to die? it being a flanged 10mm nut. I've no idea how to measure threads but the old one came off with a 10 mm socket.
Purchased! Thanks folks. Now I've moved within a few hundred yards of a Screwfix, it's starting to get a little addictive :)
I just hope I can manouvre the disk up against the nut without taking out anything else along the way. However, I'll be pleased to use a grinder that stops when you let go, unlike the stylus which has a press on/press off switch. Not particularly encouraging when you've alread dropped a 10mm socket/handle and a screwdriver onto your face!
fail :(
can't get through the nut with my tiddly Dremel Stylus. Time to invest in more tools methinks. Any recommendations for a small grinder?
Hokay. Thanks!
Shame the new sensor didn't come with any nuts :(
Time to search the new house for the Dremel...
Been trying to get the RL height sensor off. The bottom nut undid OK but the top one didn't turn before smashing the plastic ear off. This means (as I'm sure many are familiar) with a nut secured to a bolt, which passes through the bracket and is neatly held on the other side by a plastic bushing so you can't hold it tight enough in pliers to stop the whole lot turning.
I can't get a hacksaw in there to cut through the bolt. I don't have a file to file some flats on the round flange at the back of the bolt.
What have you guys done in similar situations?
Well yes it is, although the XJ has it beaten on Approach Angle (38 vs 35 Degrees) Departure Angle (31 vs 28 Degress) and for Breakover Angle it's a wash with 21 degrees for the XJ and 18 for the 4 door and 22 for the two door Rubi.
The Rubicon does have locking axles and beefier diffs - but the Rubicon weighs as much as a P38 so it needs the beef! XJ is about 1500kg and does fine on stock axles unless you're a moron and/or have 32"+ tyres. Locking diffs are a nice addition, but you can add them to an XJ too.
At least they're staying somewhat true to their roots in producing a genuinely capable offroader in the Full Fat - even if going off road isn't the point any more. The last great Jeep was the XJ and that finished in 2001. Everything since then has either been a shopping trolley or something that you'd half expect to be driven by Siegfried & Roy.
7kw Max for single phase, you really can't change the laws of physics. If rural broadband caused a ballache, three phase charging in the countryside is going to be a nightmare!
Personally I'd go with the BMW M62b44TU - not as powerful as an LS but at 280bhp it's all you need in a P38 and vastly more modern with good valve seats for LPG :)
It's alive!! And so is Marty :)
I think you guys should go halves on that workshop :D :D
Huh, same sensor as mine. (I still need to fit it, I've been on holiday for a week).
It's worth checking the reflectors on your headlights. They do deteriorate over time and reduce light output.
My mind was made up for me. When I limped into the nearest garage with the brake disk holding the wheel in place they flat out refused to change the bearing. Only a hub assembly would do. Maybe they didn't have a decent press or perhaps they CBA but they only charged me a couple of hours to change the hub over so it worked out fine.
When I was in the same boat I had one of these fitted. It's still OK ~£25k miles later.
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/front-assy-ftc3243g-p-27181.html
RutlandRover wrote:
I'd recommend avoiding metalwork that is significantly cheaper than the majority of the competition.
Having bodywork welded in and painted is an expensive job that no one wants to do twice.
I needed two sills on my Focus a few years ago, found some that were almost a deal too good to be true. Got them welded in and painted (by a main dealer body shop, so the quality of the work should have been top notch) and they'd both rusted through again in under 24 months!
I agree, but that was touted as a LR original part. It seemed to have the stickers to prove it. Of course, there's no guarantee on the Bay of Fleas.
I did see a panel for £75 on ebay (collection only) and doors are available. I was hoping someone could cut out the wrinkled arch and flush weld in the new but it's in the "when I've got a spare grand" category of stuff that will never happen :(
For now it's lathered in rust prevention - yes even the alloy bits - and I'm living with it.
Sad news, my rear left wheelarch is very second hand these days after I brushed a stone wall :(
\o/ Hooray!!
wouldn't it have some sort of filter?
Out of those three my bet would be the Solenoid seals. I'm not sure you can put the NRVs back in without noticing.