This is a bit weird... my driver's seat started to tip backwards as if the front of the rails were no longer secured. On investigation it seem the mechanism that raises the front/back of the seat squab had let go at the front. I've pushed it back together and restored some function by winding the front down with the motor but it's still not working as before.
There's also a large piece that seems to flap up and down depending on the direction of travel. Sorry for the terrible explanation but has anyone come across this before?

Folks,
I really need to properly diagnose the cold start issues I've been getting recently. I suspect it's related to fuel pressure leaking away overnight but my fuel pressure gauge doesn't have an attachment that fits onto the valve at the back of the fuel rail.
Does anyone have any recommendations please? Preferably something cheap :)
Thank you!

On the way back home after Easter, we noticed the Hairy Exhaust issue had returned. You probably don't remember that I had the backboxes replaced four years ago and the parts had a two year warranty. The first pair were replaced a couple of months outside warranty (Garage was shut during Covid lockdown) and the replacements have now dumper their fibreglass out of the tailpipe just like the first lot.
Is it worth a go to get the new set replaced like the last lot?

It's been tough to get LPG near me for a while but I'm planning a trip to Salisbury so I thought I'd have a look at FillLPG.
There's nothing but black stations out there! Is this a Ukraine war thing? I thought we got our LPG from the local refinerys.

We've just filled the Duchess with Petrol for the first time ever. That was a shock 😅

First one done!
Time for a cuppa.

I spent more time trying to get the wire through the hole in the base of the spring than anything else. It's invisible if you're working on your back :/
The new plastic clips for the wheel arch liner seem to be too big, although they're probably not. I've got 4 secured out of the 6 holes. That'll have to do!

Folks, I need to reset the front passenger window but it's a bit slow and won't do the full cycle in time.
I'm thinking a quick squirt of lubrication would help - is there any recommended type? Silicon? PTFE? plain ole WD? I'm not sure how much rubber is involved in the door.
It's a pathetic question but I hope you don't mind me asking before I just bugger it up with the wrong stuff :)
Thanks!

I've watched the Rimmer Bros video and it all looks feasible for a 12 fingered, shovel handed ape like myself.
As I understand it, I get the EAS up to wading mode (that'll take a while!) and then jack the body up a bit to get stands underneath. I've only got the standard Jack, but four decent stands.
The axle should be... not quite hanging loose? I'm guessing that you can't really have it hanging down all the way or I won't get the springs in.
Thanks in advance!

The Duches, being a expensive Bi++.. Lady... has the auto dipping, auto dimming, heated wing mirrors.
The driver's side one has now decided that being reflective was far too common and has changed colour to an unpleasant dog-streak brown.
Not wishing to replace the whole assembly (it's colour coded, too) I looked for a replacement piece of glass.

https://www.paddockspares.com/crd101240-rh-mirror-glass-electrochromatic-convex-from-ya430702.html

Holy Carp.

Hi Folks,
The Duchess is dropping her backside overnight and now it only takes a couple of hours. It's not one corner but both rear bags at once and there's often an air leak type sound from the valve block/pump area when you shut the engine off. I'm guessing it's time to rebuild the solenoid/NRV/etc seals - could you please recommend a decent set as I seem to recall that there are some which are not as good as others.
I'm also hoping to replace both rear bags if the weather isn't too horrible as the offside rear picked up an advisory for being perished.
Maybe that'll see her right?!

I hit one on the way to work on Friday. On a narrow bit of road with the estate wall on one side and a verge on the other, the stupid creature decided to take off and try to fly away over the wall. There was oncoming traffic so apart from a bit of braking there wasn't a lot I could do. Impact was on the left headlight which is now wobbly and the main beam bulb has failed/throws a warning.

Grrr.

Day off tomorrow, I'll have to see what needs to be replaced. The glass in the headlight is fine, but I suspect the mountings are toast.

Folks, could someone tell me what the recommended nose weight (or range) is for the P38?
I might be towing my jeep to the West Riding next week (1500kg).
Thanks!

I tried hooking up my fuel pressure gauge to the schraeder test port at the back of the engine the other day, but I couldn't get the pipe to hook up. It seems like the centre of the valve sticks out too far for the pipe on my gauge to get a grip on the threads.
Could you recommend me a gauge that will hook up to a P38 Thor?
Cheers
Morat

Hi folks. I need to change one of the sidelight bulbs on the Duchess. I can find the back of the sidelight easy enough but it doesn't seem to want to shift. Is there a trick to it? I've tried some wiggling and general messing about but I'm getting very strong Brittle Plastic vibes and don't want to cause a mess ahead of an MOT tomorrow.
Any ideas please?

Morat

I've just ordered a set of Michelin Cross Climates for my 18s.
Last chance for anyone to tell me they're rubbish!!

Hi folks,
the fun has begun again. I foolishly filled the Duchess with fuel and she immediately went into a sulk.
She'll crank all day but no start. The first crank came with a bit of a cough and 3-4 cylinders fired, nothing ever since.
In the past she was getting temperamental and would do this, then start perfectly after an hour or so. To try and fix that she had new plugs, wires, and coils and the problem seemed to be solved.
However, it was only ever a problem in the damp and the weather has been rubbish recently.
On Richard's suggestion I slapped the EKA in, no change.

I'm wondering - could it be the chip in the (only) fob? or is that ridiculous? The remote functions work OK (pretty much). Is there a way to know if the transponder in the fob is goosed?

Otherwise, I guess I need to get a plug out and check for spark when I have a minute.

Nanocom showed "adaptation out of range Bank1" 5 times when I first checked it. I've cleared that and it hasn't come back, which I guess isn't surprising as she hasn't run since!

Clues if you have them please, I'm all out!
Morat

Folks, I'm looking at buying a torque wrench. My current need is for a half inch drive type largish one (170lb ft min) and I'm not looking to break the bank. So, my question is - are there many reverse thread bolts on the P38? The one-way wrenches are cheaper, but how much use will I get out of the extra function?

Folks,
I thought The Duchess had forgiven me for failing to polish her every week but it appears this isn't so. Sometimes at the first start of the day she'll start straight up and stall out immediately. If I crank again there's a 50% chance she'll start and run fine for the rest of the day no matter how many times I stop/start.
If she doesn't start on the second hit, she'll crank for ever but never start.
Seeing as she has already had Plugs, HT Leads and Coils to fix the misfire (100% sorted btw) I'm guessing this is likely to be fuel. I think I've found the fuel test valve, and I have a fuel pressure test gauge thingy. I'm reading 50PSI as the correct fuel pressure for these beasts - but is there a spec for leakdown time?
Cheers,
Morat

I've just bought an 36mm impact socket from Amazon, and when it turned up it was 12 point. Is it me, or is that a bit unusual? I'm a bit confused overall as to why 12pt are the default for all sockets when 6 sided are less likely to round off nuts.
Am I being thick or is there an advantage to 12 sided sockets?

The Duchess has been off the line for a week or so because she decided that 6 cylinders are quite enough from cold. They do come back in when the engine is warmed up but it's a very nasty sounding idle/drive with 6!
Seeing as she has had new plugs and wires a couple of months back* and 4,7 are on the bottom half of the same coil - I'm wondering if this could be a coil pack issue. However, it seems a bit weird that only two of the four are missing. Or is that normal when a THOR coil pack starts to fail? Are they really two twin coils in a single box?
Or maybe it's something else entirely?

The codes are as you'd expect - catalyst damaging misfire 4, same for 7, then the multiple cylinder misfire error (logical) and sometimes adaptation out of range if I've been driving it on 6 for too long.

*which cleaned up a misfire on #2

My fronts are knackered due to poor tracking after all the front suspension components that were installed with only a "that'll do" set up.

The four tyres were bought as a set and are about 50% worn. If I get another pair on the front, will I be causing issues in the drive train? Should I get 4?
Cheers!