Hi Folks,
The Duchess is dropping her backside overnight and now it only takes a couple of hours. It's not one corner but both rear bags at once and there's often an air leak type sound from the valve block/pump area when you shut the engine off. I'm guessing it's time to rebuild the solenoid/NRV/etc seals - could you please recommend a decent set as I seem to recall that there are some which are not as good as others.
I'm also hoping to replace both rear bags if the weather isn't too horrible as the offside rear picked up an advisory for being perished.
Maybe that'll see her right?!
I hit one on the way to work on Friday. On a narrow bit of road with the estate wall on one side and a verge on the other, the stupid creature decided to take off and try to fly away over the wall. There was oncoming traffic so apart from a bit of braking there wasn't a lot I could do. Impact was on the left headlight which is now wobbly and the main beam bulb has failed/throws a warning.
Grrr.
Day off tomorrow, I'll have to see what needs to be replaced. The glass in the headlight is fine, but I suspect the mountings are toast.
Folks, could someone tell me what the recommended nose weight (or range) is for the P38?
I might be towing my jeep to the West Riding next week (1500kg).
Thanks!
I tried hooking up my fuel pressure gauge to the schraeder test port at the back of the engine the other day, but I couldn't get the pipe to hook up. It seems like the centre of the valve sticks out too far for the pipe on my gauge to get a grip on the threads.
Could you recommend me a gauge that will hook up to a P38 Thor?
Cheers
Morat
Hi folks. I need to change one of the sidelight bulbs on the Duchess. I can find the back of the sidelight easy enough but it doesn't seem to want to shift. Is there a trick to it? I've tried some wiggling and general messing about but I'm getting very strong Brittle Plastic vibes and don't want to cause a mess ahead of an MOT tomorrow.
Any ideas please?
Morat
I've just ordered a set of Michelin Cross Climates for my 18s.
Last chance for anyone to tell me they're rubbish!!
Hi folks,
the fun has begun again. I foolishly filled the Duchess with fuel and she immediately went into a sulk.
She'll crank all day but no start. The first crank came with a bit of a cough and 3-4 cylinders fired, nothing ever since.
In the past she was getting temperamental and would do this, then start perfectly after an hour or so. To try and fix that she had new plugs, wires, and coils and the problem seemed to be solved.
However, it was only ever a problem in the damp and the weather has been rubbish recently.
On Richard's suggestion I slapped the EKA in, no change.
I'm wondering - could it be the chip in the (only) fob? or is that ridiculous? The remote functions work OK (pretty much). Is there a way to know if the transponder in the fob is goosed?
Otherwise, I guess I need to get a plug out and check for spark when I have a minute.
Nanocom showed "adaptation out of range Bank1" 5 times when I first checked it. I've cleared that and it hasn't come back, which I guess isn't surprising as she hasn't run since!
Clues if you have them please, I'm all out!
Morat
Folks, I'm looking at buying a torque wrench. My current need is for a half inch drive type largish one (170lb ft min) and I'm not looking to break the bank. So, my question is - are there many reverse thread bolts on the P38? The one-way wrenches are cheaper, but how much use will I get out of the extra function?
Folks,
I thought The Duchess had forgiven me for failing to polish her every week but it appears this isn't so. Sometimes at the first start of the day she'll start straight up and stall out immediately. If I crank again there's a 50% chance she'll start and run fine for the rest of the day no matter how many times I stop/start.
If she doesn't start on the second hit, she'll crank for ever but never start.
Seeing as she has already had Plugs, HT Leads and Coils to fix the misfire (100% sorted btw) I'm guessing this is likely to be fuel. I think I've found the fuel test valve, and I have a fuel pressure test gauge thingy. I'm reading 50PSI as the correct fuel pressure for these beasts - but is there a spec for leakdown time?
Cheers,
Morat
I've just bought an 36mm impact socket from Amazon, and when it turned up it was 12 point. Is it me, or is that a bit unusual? I'm a bit confused overall as to why 12pt are the default for all sockets when 6 sided are less likely to round off nuts.
Am I being thick or is there an advantage to 12 sided sockets?
The Duchess has been off the line for a week or so because she decided that 6 cylinders are quite enough from cold. They do come back in when the engine is warmed up but it's a very nasty sounding idle/drive with 6!
Seeing as she has had new plugs and wires a couple of months back* and 4,7 are on the bottom half of the same coil - I'm wondering if this could be a coil pack issue. However, it seems a bit weird that only two of the four are missing. Or is that normal when a THOR coil pack starts to fail? Are they really two twin coils in a single box?
Or maybe it's something else entirely?
The codes are as you'd expect - catalyst damaging misfire 4, same for 7, then the multiple cylinder misfire error (logical) and sometimes adaptation out of range if I've been driving it on 6 for too long.
*which cleaned up a misfire on #2
My fronts are knackered due to poor tracking after all the front suspension components that were installed with only a "that'll do" set up.
The four tyres were bought as a set and are about 50% worn. If I get another pair on the front, will I be causing issues in the drive train? Should I get 4?
Cheers!
Videos like this make me jealous!
I fancy a little mild green laning, but the local groups insist on recovery points... does anyone know what the most economical option is to provide decent recovery options front and back? Apparently the tow bar is a no-no.
Hi Folks,
it's all been running a bit smoothly :)
I was driving home last night and the ABS light came on. So, I tested the ABS and it still seemed to be functioning.. but definitely something to investigate.
Got home, shut off, restarted - no light. Hmm
So I hooked up the nanocom and of course there were no errors showing because I should have hooked it up when the light was still on.
Silly me
This morning, on startup, ABS FAULT on the dash soon followed by TRACTION FAILURE. I Checked the nanocom and got "Brake Switch Fault 1 time". I drove for about a mile and checked again "Brake Switch Fault 13 times".
OK - I cleared the fault, switched it off and on again* and all was peachy for the rest of the drive to work. No faults, not lights, ABS functioning (good news as I swerved round an oncoming lorry on the muddy road).
So it's an intermittent fault with the BRake Switch - is this the jobby under the brake pedal or is there another one hiding somewhere?
cheers,
Morat
*it's a perfectly valid test if you work in IT :)
After the rolling code/EKA debacle this morning, my just drove it and locked it on the key as the fob wouldn't work. I was surprised as it has always synced in the ignition barrel until now without any further effort.
However, doing the door lock waggle, key press dance (I'm not quite sure what combo it was, but it worked) re-synced the fob.
On the basis that there's only so much "Character" I can put up with on a car, has anyone ever replaced the RF receiver ring thing in the ignition switch?
I know we're far from a statistically significant sample but...
How long have people run their Rover V8s for?
If you have had headgaskets, cams, chains - or even new engines it would be interesting to know when those items were replaced.
It would probably be useful to know what mileage was showing when you bought the car. For example, mine was bought at 96k and it's now showing near 130k so I can't speak for anything that happened before 96k as it had no service history.
If you've got a spare £15k burning a hole in your pocket :)
https://tinyurl.com/sryttpb
Damnit, I went out this afternoon with my new plugs and wires... FFS how am I ever going to get my shovels in to the coil packs? I think it might be just plugs this time :/
Folks,
this is a bit of a pain. She's been grand all summer but now it's getting colder she's failing to start when cold. There was one time it wouldn't start and I cleared a security Serial link error and she started fine. I don't think this is related.
It started with crank, burble, nothing. Then crank burble, nothing. Then crank, fire - run (albeit lumpy to start with as cylinders chimed in)
As it gets colder it's more likely, crank, burble, nothing. Crank, burble, nothing, Crank crank crank crank nothing.
If you get lucky and it fires up, hot or warm restart is fine.
Currently looking at about 3C on the thermometer and she won't fire at all.
Faults on the nano
Multiple misfires (not surprising), and random upstream O2 no signal (occurred once, not present). I cleared then, they haven't come back but she still won't start.
Yes, plenty of fuel - both types :)
Where should I begin?