The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
244 posts

Hello all,

Driving a few eeks ago I hit one my lovely local potholes. Bang! B*ks! On goes the SRS light and the DIS AIRBAG FAULT.

Nanocom Code 008, The drivers airbag measures open circuit, (Permanent).

It wasn't the SRS 2 bulbs behind the dash - they were ok. So on others experience I removed the lower panel under the steering wheel, removed the dash clocks, removed the steering wheel plastic trim (on the column) and then with ignition off and head below the airbag ;) proceeded to unclip all the yellow connectors and spray them with electrical contact cleaner.
Re-assembled and voila! No more AIRBAG FAULT, I also cleared faults logged with the Nanocom

It's a tw*t of a job. But BF&I every time. The razor sharp steel is more of the problem...

Symes wrote:

I thought if you remove the rear part of pump you need a depth dial gauge and adapter to reset it ---- not that everyday Joe is doing the job --- personally best left to someone like DES who do ours --- not cheap but fully serviced --- I'm sure they could do m51 pump

I did mine but I also did get a DTI gauge to correct the timing. Bloody fiddly as I'd never done it before. Diesel Jones charge around £6 - 700 for a FIP complete refurb, I couldn't afford it at the time so changed my own o-rings

Did you swap the steering damper at the same time? I didn't and it was still weaving like Friday night drunk. Changed the steering damper and it felt much better immediately. I think it was the same make as my shocks - although it was 2 years ago and I can't remember the make now.

Hello mate,
I completely replaced all my airbags on my drive and refurbished the EAS system. There are plenty of tutorials here and the other 2 classic RR sites, it isn't difficult, just take your time and to one job at a time. Don't buy the cheap crap o ring kits for the EAS block - you'll regret it, I did.
Mine will go from normal height to max in around 3 seconds now - it took a long, long time to rise when I bought the car (all worn out).

The one specialist tool I needed was hook, wire coat hanger, home made x 1 (bend a hook at one end and a loop for a karabiner at the other) You'll need this tool to yank the rusty pins out of the top of the airbags (rear I think).

Easy test for EAS (if you don't already know) - I put mine on high then press the button to lock the EAS (the one that looks like a flat tyre to the right of the suspension height button. Leave it over night or for 3 - 5 days. You'll soon see which one has or hasn't got a leak as that corner will drop.

Not sure if they all do this but when I stop at traffic lights and keep my foot on the brake (no hand brake or parking brake) the car doesn't really move. If I put the car in park whilst waiting at a red light after around 10 seconds it will start self levelling. These days I worry if it doesn't hahaha.

Hope that's of use to you

That's the idea but that kit that's for common rail. It's definitely an interesting concept. The one I read about put LPG into the intake air on a P38 and I also read about a Disco that had the same thing fitted LRO monthly last year)

I'll fit the reverse lights as you can never have bright enough vision going backwards 😀 The Q7 has the worst reversing lights I've ever used. I'm sure they come from Toc-H, they are like kiddies birthday candles

Thanks Marty - my only hesitation is bouncing around trying to hit a touch area... I don't think it would be too bad if only I could find an interface that you could re-size the buttons and and touchdown area on. I haven't looked for a year so I'll do some reading up.

Only this week I read about F35 pilots having the exact same problem. Some egg head installed touchscreen MFD interfaces that means the pilot has to look down to use it. Pilots are not very impressed and prefer real switches etc, but £££ dictate cheap parts

Gilbertd - how did you fix yours? I have a complete spare heater box that I'm going to swap out when the weather is nicer and fix the a/c while I'm at it. I followed all the ST screw instructions to the letter and the longest I ever got working properly was around 14 days then the book was back. I did swap out all 3 blend motors not long after I bought the car but it really is bugging me. I hate things that don't work. This year I aim to fix everything on the car.

I've got a CK3100N Parrot with LCD screen and a mic. I couldn't remove the harness from the old car but it's free to anyone that wants it

I've just had a look at the led 382's. Don't you need white lights if you have red lenses or you get a dimming effect from both being red?

That does look good and not having a book in your HEVAC is just showing off hahaha

Thanks guys

That looks like it. I read that it causes the diesel to burn much cleaner at around +90% so if that's the case it should reduce the smoke a fair bit. I'll find the links but I saw a P38 fitted with it that the Polish guy claimed around 1200 miles from LPG & diesel on a full tank of each.

PS. That's for common rail, so ok for my Q7 but not the P38. Probably needs a different adapter

Hey Sloth, bloody good work mate, well impressed and a big BZ ;-)

Love to watch how people overcome problems. I've got a spare M51 now and I'd love to do LPG on the inlet side as I've seen before to get the much cleaner burn. Can't remember what it's called but I did see an article of a bloke that did it with a Disco.

I still think a real mistress is cheaper than a P38 forever project 😉 😄

Not that sneaky one at the back. Unless you have hands like the tentacles of an octopus 🤣 My man hands absolutely do not fit in that space.
Let me know if you do actually manage it 👍

Another sneaky fault is leaking and/or split leak off return pipes. Touch them and see if they are soapy/slidy with diesel. I found I had to change mine annually

Dave, I bought the same stand as you, I went to Warrington it's just so much easier to park than Chester! I just need to slide it out of the car and into the garage now. Spent the last weekend putting up all the old kitchen cupboards 😁 Now I have storage space!
Will build the stand this weekend and hopefully mount the engine so I can wheel it around

There's a bodgers method of freeing them without taking the whole heater box out and stripping it down in post 25 here https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/photos-of-method-for-freeing-blend-flaps-with-s-t-screw.14322/page-2 (click on the thumbnail picture to see all of them).

Only worked temporarily for me. I can move all 3 with a 9v battery no problem full end to end. Put it into HEVAC control book within minutes

Dave I tried a heat gun on the broken lamp on my TT (RIP now) that the garage broke and hid under plastic trim, and that didn't go well either. The plastic heated up and went milky.
I think some people are gifted, some are lucky and the rest are mortals like me hahaha

Glad to hear Sloth, can't wait to fit it to be honest.

They used to be very expensive, it's been sat in my Amazon watch list for at least 2 years. I've got a Sony DAB & bluetooth radio that takes 2 phones (work and personal) at the same time, very handy!
The only downside is the glaring blue display, couldn't find a green display at the time. Anyone recommend a good one with green and dimmable display?