Hi all,

Just bought one of these and I spoke with PAC and the SWI-RC-1 is compatible with the P38, I got mine for £28.09. Will try and fit this weekend, weather depending.

A lot cheaper than when I looked a couple of years ago!

karlos01 wrote:

mukiwa

I'm with you on that one been on some sites and given advice and told it not right
I've got 2.5td p38 and had some good pointers on here

That's fair enough, only do what you feel good with mate. Mines a 2.5 DSE. It worked well enough on mine for 16,000 miles 😁 and for a 2p mod the performance in pulling up the hill I live on from a cold start was so noticeable that SWMBO asked me what I'd done to the car.
I also cleaned out the inlet manifold of all the black oily residue and the intercooler. Don't do either of those near your wife's white patio paving. It's cost me an extension to cover up the mess :😭

P.S. The only other thing I can think of is if the ECU has the EGR programmed in and does it need removing? My Q7 did ahem. It doesn't now. The EGR delete kit is a posh version of my 2p (which is invisible).

Supposedly 135kgs dry from what I found.
Thanks to both of you, I wasn't sure if there were specific types for specific engines 😊

Hi all,
I'm rebuilding my last M51 engine this year. Currently sat in the boot of the RR.

I've searched but can't seem to find anything.

I need one with wheels to move it and the ability to spin/turn the engine over (not start it up) to do work on it.

Are there specific bolts to fasten it on?

Last engine rebuild I did was a 2ltr flat 4 from my old camper in about 1994 on 2 pallets on the floor under my lean to outside 🤣

Thanks in advance 👍🏻

Thanks Karlos1,

They are a good lot and I have met some of them haha. This site is a lot more helpful and nowhere near as blunt and sarcastic as a couple of other sites I could mention ;-)

Anyway I've learned a lot too and my P38 DSE is up and running again. The EAS since I rebuilt it moves a lot faster than my Q7's that's for sure!

Thanks for the explanation of the resistive ladder, I had no idea what that meant but makes perfect sense now.
Cheers all

How do you then interface those wires with the headunit? I have a similar problem

1. Does the DSE have the wiring in the harness for the multi-button wheel I fitted
2. How do I interface with the head unit if it does work?

I remember seeing a PAC-SWI or similar but no idea where it goes
Baffled of Cheshire 😀

Before my TT went to the big breakers yard in the sky last week I finally dried it out.

Thomar Air Dry 604200 Dehumidifier packs. They can be dried out on a radiator when wet and I made the mistake of buying 2 packs. They come with 2 bags in each pack so I have 4 now 🤣 Nothing I tried dried out the TT. Four of these did it in week with 24 hours to dry out after around 2 days.
Recommended and a good purchase.

Thanks Dave, glad to be back! And hello to the old and the new ones since I was last here.

This week is the first time since catching Corona last February that I've had blood oxgyen sats above 92%, I finally got 99% yesterday. Finally able to breathe properly again and not sound like I've got emphysema when I run up the stairs 😁

I did it it's easy it only takes 10 minutes tops. The NRV's have a flow arrow on the body, make sure the arrow points to the fuel filter (obvious but easy to miss). The big fat bulkhead fuel pipe that goes to the fuel filter head is the one to cut. Insert the NRV push the pipe back together. I use zip ties for security.
I did have a weak lift pump in the tank at the time and I've had 2 fail since I've owned the car.

I did mine in situ (1, 2, 4 & 6), you can change all but the one "behind" the pump (number 1 on the diagram). It has to come off for that one. Guess what? On two engines that I've had it's been that once twice. After I changed all the others.... 👨‍🔧 Typical.

I have 2 spare FIP's and one has both of those o-rings (no 1), and one has none just very thin metal gaskets.

As Dave says mark the pump, personally I've tried this but it didn't work for me.

Hello mate,

There is a 2p version of the EGR delete. You undo the pipes and slip a 2p piece in there and bolt the pipe back up. Job done. Takes 5 minutes and you will notice the difference the first drive you do. If any MOT tester can spot that then they have x-ray vision

PS: or it could be a 1p coin - my memory is a bit hazy 😀

With the Nano connected you don't get a fault saying "u/s MAF" or similar it just gives strange readings, similar to a ridiculous temperature like -238C. I can't exactly remember off the top of my head.

Mazz1,

The lack of power can also be a u/s MAF sensor. Unplug the plug on the side and then take it for a drive. My MAF sensor failed and I had a complete lack of power, I couldn't get over 50mph and it took ages to get there. I unplugged the plug on the side and all my power came back.

It is the round tube coming out of the air filter box. It should have BMW or similar on the top and an arrow showing airflow on the top (squareish shaped top) the plug is on the front - mind you it can be a swine to unplug so be careful and gentle. I can't add pictures onto here so others may be able to help.

It is a free test to do without any diagnostics except you 😆

I thought my gearbox had failed and it wasn't, I was also getting gearbox failed faults on my dash and it was the MAF sensor.

cheers,

Hoppy

Well after reading that lot I'm glad Rommel is VOR in my drive way. Otherwise who knows what challenge/s the P38 god / goddess would put my way this time on my trip to Limoges and back 😆

No problem. I've learned the hard way and had my fingers burned with this P38. I nearly died of carbon monoxide poisoning the first week I bought it, smack in the middle of the M48 bridge into Wales. I just managed to pull over to the hard shoulder and fell out and passed out on the hard shoulder. 40 minutes later I woke up hahahaha.

The dealer had an obviously dodgy MOT garage he used as after I investigated it I found 3 holes in the exhaust and the vents in the rear tailgate (one way flaps) were missing! So not only were exhaust fumes entering through the holes underneath, they were also being sucked in through the tailgate vents.
Not an experience I ever want to repeat

hahaha love it!

Morat wrote:

And you'd be bored with something that didn't have any issues ;)
Hahahaha. I consider a P38 a hobby these days, it's worse than a puppy for wanting love all the time :-D

Hi Mazz1,
I think - someone please correct me if I'm wrong - but the codes as shown may differ on the P38 to other cars as the data port (OBD II) is standard, but how it does it is not and that's why you need specific P38 Nanocom / Hawkeye and others to read the codes. This alone will save you over £40 - 50 per time in getting codes read, if you keep the P38 consider this a vital tool.

Fuel quantity adaptation sounds like an FIP fault as it's the only part I know of that has anything that measures fuel seeing as the intank pump is as dumb as a brick.

You really need to know what diagnostic tool they used, LR uses Testbook. SnapOn etc don't read most of the codes so in my opinion if they don't have any of the specific P38 code readers I'd consider any diagnostics null and void. I understand it's different for you but over the years I have had many a Mexican stand off with rip off garages. That's why I do nearly all of my own work now, plus I trust myself to do it properly as I'm not against time and I'm not trying to make a profit off myself 😆

I always work on a garage charging £50/hr so you are looking at just over 3 hrs for labour there.
£287.55 for an in tank pump? Ouch. That must be genuine branded Landrover, mine cost less than £30 from eBay.
Glow plugs - again if they have good quality that's about right. To change the plugs you need to remove the plastic bits and the intake manifold from the engine and then reinstall it all on completion. Then get into the plugs to change them. Ask them which cylinders the plugs came from and how they checked to see if they needed changing.

If a garage didn't provide me with the code print out stapled to the invoice - guess what? I didn't pay as they could (and probably did) just make it up. No proof, no pay.

In my experience and that's based on my experience, most garages pray on the weak and those that are too nice to deal with them, and are charlatans.

Final bit of advice for when you finally get this sorted - hopefully your new mechanic will be able to do this for you:-

If he has to remove the FIP again (and he might)

1. Tell him to do the static timing, this mechanically puts the FIP timing back to the zero/datum point. Once this is correct your car will start easily without a "hot start fix" (I have a hot start fix installed, works a treat). This is caused by wear and tear and worn timing chains and FIP. Eventually the electrickery elves that live in the top of the FIP can't use their computer magic to compensate for worn parts and stretched chains 😸
2. You need 6 good glow plugs with a P38 - get them tested and replaced - winter is coming.
3. You need a big battery that's up to the job of turning over a big 6 cylinder diesel in winter. Mine is 1000cca / 120aHrs.

Best to prep for winter now.
Keep us posted Mazz.

Just caught up with the goings on. Sorry but the driving and the new job are keeping me away...

I can confirm the things below as I have done it:

FIP
To remove the FIP you need to lock the engine at TDC using the FLYWHEEL locking pin - not in the pump. If you don't put the pin in all the way, when you undo the FIP nut you turn the engine backwards. That's why I'm having to change my timing chains as it's as easy to change them as check them.
You also need the special tool to hold the timing chain in place while you remove the FIP or the timing chain moves inside the housing and then your timing is out. I believe that is what the first "mechanic" that swapped my first FIP did (or technically DIDN'T do). Smokey as hell and massive reduction in power.

FIP SEALS
If they changed the TOP seal only on your FIP - it doesn't need any special tools apart from removing the security bolt. It also DOES NOT affect anything else at all.

The one that you have to be careful about is the second one down, that DOES need to be done carefully and in a certain way.

The FIP being "on cam" is (as far as I know) ONLY for changing the HP o-ring that the 6 pipes go into as a bit can fall out and get stuck internally if it's done wrong.

VP37 EDC
The FIP is an EDC version of the Bosch VP37 - that's the special electronics bit in the top as far as I'm aware. Electronic diesel control I believe.

In tank pump (aka lift pump)
The in tank lift pump gives no faults when it fails. You will have trouble starting the car with 1/4 tank or less of diesel and especially if it's pointing up hill at 1/4 of a tank or less. Mine did.
You can check if the intank pump is working or not by removing the fuel pipe from the fuel filter and measuring how much squirts out into a measuring jug. If nothing comes out when the ignition is turned and the engine cranks - it's f*cked 👍 There is a specific amount it squirts out so you can measure if it's working 100% or reduced rate. It only squirts once on start up, after that the FIP suction takes over.

These cost around £25 and if the hole has been cut in your floor should take 30 mins maximum to change. Honestly.

You are best to install a non return valve between the fuel filter and bulk head in the fuel line. You will NEVER know that your intank pump has failed again once you do this 😄

Good luck Mazz1, if I was nearer I would have helped but I'm working in Cornwall & Devon and travelling Sunday's & Friday's.
If you intend to keep the P38 definately buy a Nanocom or similar. You won't regret it.

All the best and keep us posted,

Hoppy