I've just done Winsford to Rochechouart twice in 8 weeks, 27.8mpg with no trailer but very heavy load in the back, 20.1mpg with my twin axle trailer and a flatpack kitchen in it. Drove down last Saturday and the weather was awful all the way down fighting the storm so I'll measure my mpg with an empty trailer on the way back. I might fit a yellow beacon next time, French drivers love screaming straight up to the back of you - especially artic trucks - and flashing you to shift. A bit hard when you are halfway past a lumbering artic though, it's not like I can suddenly drop backwards or light up my RATO pack to assist. hahahaha
mace wrote:
Hi folks,
Working on a 2.5 just now that stalls easily setting off in first-high. Nanocom shows modulation up at 95% so I'm guessing the pump static timing needs a wee tweak?
Does that sound about right, or am I holding the wrong end of the stick?
I've seen mention online of people tweaking the pump position whilst watching nanocom, anyone tried that?
Ta.
Hi Miah,
I just a few weeks ago swapped out my top and middle gaskets on the FIP and after asking Wammers on another forum (he is a retired mechanic and a serious FIP boffin - but he is cantankerous hahaha) the advice I got was this:-
Modulation is only adjustable via static timing and no other way. 95% is right at the end of the ability for the electronic brains to account for chain stretch and it will need the static timing adjusting sooner rather than later. My modulation is 67% but I will do static timing in the spring.
Twisting the pump only changes the mg/stroke (which is really mg/litre apparently) which should be between 5 - 6 mg/str for best running @ 750rpm, 128 is the correct fuelling value on Nanocom. To keep my rpm @ 750 I have to put my fuelling at 129 so you can adjust that. The dash rpm counter needle however shows around 775 on the dash, Nano shows 750rpm exactly, so I go with that.
If you haven't yet done it, the twisting and moving is a pain in the arse and will seriously test your patience! Slight tightening of one bolt revs go up, slight loosening of another and they drop, it's a balancing act it just takes time and cups of tea :) If you loosen the bolts too much if you don't spot it you will find a nice diesel smell, thats the pump pissing diesel out - so don't loosen them too much just enough to get movement.
I am in no way a guru I'm just passing on the same info that I was given so I hope this will help others as it did for me.
So correct measurements should be:
750rpm
fuelling @ 128 on nanocom
5-6 mg/str
modulation 50% (+/- 5%)
With new chains static timing is set at 0.95 mm lift at TDC. Over time as the chains run in and loosen up slightly it should drop to 0.9 mm static.
Welcome BlackSpeed66!
And it's 1 quid (£1) and 5 quid (£5) not quids! My mate in Virginia still can't get his head around that one hahahaha. And it is definitely your round :👍
I've been over the bonnet in my old LHD FH70 Landcruiser in Sierra Leone. Also had to be retrieved when the side of the road collapsed in the rainy season into an illegal mine (hidden deep pit) right on the edge of the road behind bushes. First my rear right wheel went in and in slow motion I managed to jump out, grab the chains and chain it to a tree. The Troopie then pivoted around and the arse end was well in the water full axle. The chain was crossing the road and the locals were not happy as it was blocking them driving at this point. I had requested recovery from my works and they eventually arrived an pulled me out with a Backie land cruiser (pickup to us). Meantime while standing there I had a swarm of nasty black ants decide I was their target and my balls and legs suddenly all started to burn! I looked down and saw the bloody ants but there were so many the only way to get them out of my clothes was to rip them off at the side of the road. Much to the amusement of the local villagers - all of them! watching the crazy white man dancing around naked swiping fire ants off his bits :😆 :😆 :😆
Thanks Gilbertd :👍
Missed this one.
I've been checking this morning (Google & Albrit) but can't find a Rover / Land Rover parts commonality list, so does anyone know the MG part number for a RHD drivers door latch of the 2 listed please? Mines a 99 DSE.
FQJ102281PMA
FQJ102262PMA
cheers,
Hoppy
After sticking a tablet there as a test I've decided I can't stand having a touch screen down there. So I went for a Sony head unit with dual Bluetooth, DAB, FM, MW & Long wave. So in France I can listen to R4, I can pretty much get 1458 from London (strange Indian station) in daytime (Autumn & Winter only) as far south as around the Poitiers line, all the way in the dark hours.
So no android screen setup for me, phone in the window as satnav and a real radio down below in radio land. Great to actually have a phone call come out over the car speakers and not the crappy Nokia one in the dash.
Well this time I was determined to do it myself. I've been running SVO and as per advice pssssssssssssssss drip drip drip.... So I got the cheap o ring kit (will get Viton later) and after dismantling the bits that needed moving I finally swapped out the top one, easy enough. 9/32 fitted my security bolt better than the 7mm as I've read. I thought I'd scored the FIP body in the right place - looked good to me. Ooops. Nope wrong bit. Anyway once I got it back together I had 90 mins of the loosen, twist, tighten .. revs up...loosen... revs down. Go to other bolt etc etc. Finally got it back to 750rpm and it is actually running nicer now than before, picks up a lot nicer. Result!
Another job that doesn't scare me any more hahahaha. I have a spare FIP ready to go with Viton o rings and gaskets in due course and no more dripping diesel
None of this would have been possible without various forums - thanks to all.
Oh and I still have no idea how you tap the pump to advance or retard the ignition. Do people use an old toffee hammer? There's no room in my engine bay for a hammer without it getting stuck on everything 👍
Correction: EDC FIP
Whiskey how on earth do you get 34mpg? You need to teach me your tricks! Hahahaha
I have just done 750 miles@ 60mph and got 27.7 mpg average. It is an auto doozle mind you.
Re smart meters - remote disconnect is also built in. IIRC 63amp breaker, my mate is industrial sparky.
I also heard that we will never be able to do variable spot tariff swaps as they only send data in arrears ( best is 30 minute intervals apparently ) as the Comms networks can't take an the live traffic.
If anyone knows different please update as my info is probably 4 years old now.
Mine is a dumb meter, I removed the sim
Yes! But I'll win hahahs
Boiled the kettle haha
Well blow me down with a feather. About 8 times trying to clear the neutral warning.
I booked my 12v kettle waiting for recovery and .....
Neutral sign is now gone, Rommel lives!
All was ok yesterday. I drove to the Euro tunnel and just before I got on the train I put rubbish in the bin. I got a strange whiff about an hour before arrival but thought nothing more of it.
Anyway I saw this big red puddle of ATF under the car as I was about to board the train.
I checked underneath and found the pipe coming out from underneath the gearbox had come undone. How? It was fine at 6pm yesterday as I checked for any weeping.
The Euro tunnel recovery towed my car - I did put fuse 11 in - round to the check-in area. I removed the fuse worked through the gears and no nasty noises but it won't vibe out of "select neutral". Hsbc Recovery man bought me ATF and we filled it up. I started the engine went from 3 to R ok when into P it makes a horrible Ducati clutch noise. It will come out of P with no noise.
Anyway it's probably f*#@ed now. Any ideas?
I'm going to look for a replacement great box if that's the consensus.
Someone really doesn't want me to get to France!
Bored now waiting for recovery. 2 hours down......
Found this on Ashcroft site. This is for me when the engine / oil is hot, cold it shifts over both ways ok.
Whats the easiest way to shift between high and low with an autobox ?
Engine running, put in drive and come off the pedals so the car is rolling at walking pace, move the gear shifter to Neutral and before you come to a standstill shift the hi/lo lever to high or low with a quick sharp push, once engaged move the gear shifter to Drive and continue.
Ok I'm getting somewhere. Still no dash cog lights on startup or when changing from high - low.
My drive way is on quite a slope.
When I change from high to low and the beeps don't stop I left the gear lever on the low side and rolled backwards slowly - CLUNK into low. Beeps stopped.
Drive up and down ok.
Change from low to high - beep beep beep beep beep beep. Roll backwards slowly again about 3 feet, CLUNK it's now in high, beeps stopped.
I repeated this 3 times and it works each time.
The lights do not light up on the dash any more when I change from high to low and vice versa. I get the beeps. Once it's hot it doesn't change at all and no cog lights now.
Last year ( I was out of the country for a few months ) the cogs did light up when I changed from high to low & vice versa until it stopped changing over once it got hot. Then it just beeped constantly with the cogs lit.
The dash light works. I didn't see the scroll bar the other day
I couldn't find that option previously - I'll look again, thanks. I'll report back thanks Gilbertd
I must have crossed my eyes over that temp sensor haha
I can make the car go high / low when it's cool by pressing the spring lever on the microswitch but once the temp gets up it then sticks again. There are no faults showing on the Nanocom.
I did pull off the gear box temp connectors near the transfer box motor and it clunked from low to high. It won't change any more until the car cools down again.
I can measure 11v on the 2 wires that go to the temp sensor.
I have spent the last 2 1/2 hours trying to understand the ETM's in Rave but I admit defeat as I have yellow and blue wires coming off the microswitch under the gear lever and on the drawings I can find in the ETM there aren't any blue & yellow wires.
Someone did mention the XYZ switch before but how can this be temp related?
Martyuk wrote:
It's for the rear footwell light that goes under the overhang of the center console in the rear footwell.
Not all vehicles were fitted with it, and that's where the connector to the vehicle loom hides for some reason.
Marty - I found the mounting holes for that light today. I would never have known it was there unless I dismantled the cubby console