Hello all,
I finally have time on my hands again. I have sad and good news. Sad news (if anyone didn't know) is that Dave3d passed away, and I bought his P38 from his lovely wife. EAS block now refurbished, pump to follow once the parts arrive. It has the Arnott bags and is definitely stiffer then the OEM Dunlops. Strange thing is that the EKA lockout can't be cleared via the Nanocom, only by the key in the door. Even though the Nanocom says it's cleared the lockout.
Good news is my eldest son now has been passed my old P38 and it now lives in Yeovil, he's very pleased with it so far.
Both of these cars have the HP24 V8 gearbox and uprated/matching torque converters from Dave Ashcroft's, and chipped engines.
Hello all,
Driving a few eeks ago I hit one my lovely local potholes. Bang! B*ks! On goes the SRS light and the DIS AIRBAG FAULT.
Nanocom Code 008, The drivers airbag measures open circuit, (Permanent).
It wasn't the SRS 2 bulbs behind the dash - they were ok. So on others experience I removed the lower panel under the steering wheel, removed the dash clocks, removed the steering wheel plastic trim (on the column) and then with ignition off and head below the airbag ;) proceeded to unclip all the yellow connectors and spray them with electrical contact cleaner.
Re-assembled and voila! No more AIRBAG FAULT, I also cleared faults logged with the Nanocom
Hi all,
Just bought one of these and I spoke with PAC and the SWI-RC-1 is compatible with the P38, I got mine for £28.09. Will try and fit this weekend, weather depending.
A lot cheaper than when I looked a couple of years ago!
Hi all,
I'm rebuilding my last M51 engine this year. Currently sat in the boot of the RR.
I've searched but can't seem to find anything.
I need one with wheels to move it and the ability to spin/turn the engine over (not start it up) to do work on it.
Are there specific bolts to fasten it on?
Last engine rebuild I did was a 2ltr flat 4 from my old camper in about 1994 on 2 pallets on the floor under my lean to outside 🤣
Thanks in advance 👍🏻
Well my new job is ok, only problem is I'm in Launceston Sunday night - Friday pm.
Rommel is sat on the drive almost at the point of taking off the head to get to the timing chains and sprockets... anyone fancy helping? hahaha
I need my bloody P38 back on the road - just hard to do from 268 miles away 😆
Gearbox has suddenly gone a bit snatchy/clunky on 2-3rd upchange in auto about 3 times out of 10. Heavy acceleration doesn't do it but if it's gentle-ish (fuel saving) it does. For example sat at traffic lights and drive away stuck behind the usual go - stop - slow - go - chug - while the cars work out they have to change gear AND drive forward on green! that's when it snatches badly.
If I use manual 2 -3rd it doesn't do it, or I can't feel it. One or 2 of the clunks were quite bad, a loud bang and a snatch in the transmission, but then I ran it around Oulton Park in low last weekend and that was clunky to start with but got smoother after about 15 minutes. Now it seems to still slip / snatch but nowhere near as clunky as it was before running round in low range for a couple of hours on the grass.
I changed the ATF and filter 6 months ago and I do have Lucas trans fix in there. So crap in the gearbox, worn clutch plates? I'm going to do another ATF/Transfix change this weekend as my plan.
Due another run to Limoges again at the end of May so I'd like to fix this.
As it says chaps - any clues please? I have freed up and sanded all the other flaps and they now move freely but I'm buggered if I can see how to remove the top flaps without damaging anything.
Once done I'm swapping the boxes over so my blend motors work automatically again
Bloody car.
So on Wednesday my wife drives to the village for the morning bread run, parks up, buys bread gets back into car. Turns key. Click. Turns key again. Click. Walks 2.5 miles back home. So I walk back this afternoon to inspect (intuition is now saying fuse box must be this trips gremlin). Open the bonnet, sniff the fuse box - eek acrid nasty stink. Open the fuse box and the postive cable nut is wiggling around loose in the board. F*ck.
Pull out multi tool and remove fusebox. Got it back home and it looks just like this one on this site https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LgFGJqTD.../st9QXw5eJDY/s1600/P38+Fusebox+connection.JPG
Repair isn't that hard, just going to be tedious, but my Level 3 repair kit is at home in Blighty, so it will have to wait until I'm home. I have ordered a replacement from the Bay of E but currently the car is stuck in the village centre car park until I can get it recovered to our house here.
These are just challenges, not problems and if it wasn't for forums and you guys & girls repairs would not be possible.
I do love driving this car so it is an ongoing running resto, Commando Spirit and all that!
Well this time I was determined to do it myself. I've been running SVO and as per advice pssssssssssssssss drip drip drip.... So I got the cheap o ring kit (will get Viton later) and after dismantling the bits that needed moving I finally swapped out the top one, easy enough. 9/32 fitted my security bolt better than the 7mm as I've read. I thought I'd scored the FIP body in the right place - looked good to me. Ooops. Nope wrong bit. Anyway once I got it back together I had 90 mins of the loosen, twist, tighten .. revs up...loosen... revs down. Go to other bolt etc etc. Finally got it back to 750rpm and it is actually running nicer now than before, picks up a lot nicer. Result!
Another job that doesn't scare me any more hahahaha. I have a spare FIP ready to go with Viton o rings and gaskets in due course and no more dripping diesel
None of this would have been possible without various forums - thanks to all.
Oh and I still have no idea how you tap the pump to advance or retard the ignition. Do people use an old toffee hammer? There's no room in my engine bay for a hammer without it getting stuck on everything 👍
Correction: EDC FIP
All was ok yesterday. I drove to the Euro tunnel and just before I got on the train I put rubbish in the bin. I got a strange whiff about an hour before arrival but thought nothing more of it.
Anyway I saw this big red puddle of ATF under the car as I was about to board the train.
I checked underneath and found the pipe coming out from underneath the gearbox had come undone. How? It was fine at 6pm yesterday as I checked for any weeping.
The Euro tunnel recovery towed my car - I did put fuse 11 in - round to the check-in area. I removed the fuse worked through the gears and no nasty noises but it won't vibe out of "select neutral". Hsbc Recovery man bought me ATF and we filled it up. I started the engine went from 3 to R ok when into P it makes a horrible Ducati clutch noise. It will come out of P with no noise.
Anyway it's probably f*#@ed now. Any ideas?
I'm going to look for a replacement great box if that's the consensus.
Someone really doesn't want me to get to France!
Bored now waiting for recovery. 2 hours down......
Sorry guys but this is my latest bit I'm getting to fix. I'm tackling the problems one problem at a time.
a) Previously the cog lights on the dash worked when changing hi - lo - now it doesn't - the bulb is good
b) the beeping does work well
c) When cold it will change hi to lo and back no problem - but no cogs on the dash. 3 beeps and it's changed over
d) I have refurbished and checked the ratio control motor. It works with a clunk and rocks the car when changing when cold, see b)
e) the transfer ECU has been swapped (Ebay) and exactly the same results as above - no change
EDIT: Does the micro switch inside the gear lever mechanism have anything to do with it? YES it does
If so can I check / test / replace it and if so what is the part number? I have looked on Albrit and my workshop manual but can't find the microswitch.
Any ideas please guys?
EDIT: I have also checked the PCB and there aren't any electrical burn smells or visible burn/scorch/damage to any components
Hi all,
I have a white 2 pin connector behind the window switch pack not connected to anything. Is it for an optional extra light for the cubby box by any chance? I can't see any references in Rave
cheers,
Hoppy
Luckily not the 3 grouped together, the one out on it's own.
Drilled most of the old bolt out and thought right - let's see if an easy out will be able to complete this. Guess what? I applied my hand torque to it... SNAP. Bollocks!
So as usual these easy outs are too hard to drill out but not hard enough to be any use. I have thrown all those easy outs in the bin. Waste of time.
Any one have any sources of diamond tip drill bits please?
My motor works fine when it's cold but won't moved when it's hot, so I thought is check to see if the motor was clean and it is
Well after a full service I thought I had it covered. But around 3,000 rpm on the M6 really bad vibration kicked in. Stopped at Stafford services couldn't see anything untoward. Decided to take it easy and turn around and drive home. 2 minutes after leaving and climbing the hill - slap slap slap slap sound I looked down and up goes the temp gauge followed by the red light. Probably the only part I didn't replace or service. Typical hahahaha
I quickly pulled onto the hard shoulder (soon to be gone as it's being turned into a smart (dumb) motorway) and killed the engine. Jumped out and could smell coolant, steam out of the bonnet and coolant all over the floor.
So apart from an OEM or airtex water pump is there anything else I should check for damage while I am dismantling please guys? Belts, pulley's etc..
PS. Where the signs say "Free recovery wait in the vehicle" Highways England, Kier and the RAC don't actually agree with each other as to which bit is actually free recovery. You can have free recover signs but according to Highways England you are not actually in a free recovery area. Beaurocracy for you. They won't tell you that though until you've waited over 2 hours and start ringing them back as to why you are still waiting for the truck that never comes....
I'm stuck on the bump stops with 40 miles to go. Can anyone help until I get home please? I'm off to the hotel now.
Bypass didn't work, compressor is dead
Hoppy
The self tapping screw trick didn't work on my heater box. I dreaded removing the complete dash again so I thought I'd try the drilling and spraying lubricant onto the pivot point.
I unplugged the blend motor plug and used a 9v battery to move / free up the blend motors, all good and moving. I drilled the holes, 5mm so you can see through - sorry but I forgot to take pics - and used the straw on the GT85 to aim the spray. I then with SWMBO's help moved through all the button and temp combinations and kept giving it a squirt while it was moving. I then cleared the faults with the Nanocom. Turned the engine off then on and no faults found. Just need to gas up the A/C now!
Pleased to say it worked!
I did find something out though, the Nanocom reported RHS blend motor as faulty. If I'm sat in the car that is actually the LHS passenger blend motor. I'm guessing I either put the motors in the wrong places 4 years ago or LR report from standing looking at the car from the front.
Mine is:
Blue blend motor RH drivers temp
Black blend motor LH passenger temp
Grey blend motor distribution flap
Evening all,
Is it worth getting the tracking re-done after the full airbag and shock change?
I'm due a drive to Glasgow this weekend and then Limoges the weekend after so I'll be getting it done anyway - I'm just wondering
As part of my ongoing service I filled up to the line on the dipstick, went out for a drive and I could smell hot oil. Open the bonnet and saw the mess out of the cap.
I changed the oil yesterday and wondered why it was blowing oil out of the filler cap. Then I realised that the oil filter housing didn't have an o-ring on it like it should have and thought that was a bit odd. I put on the new o-ring.
I also couldn't stop the oil cooler leaks but I finally managed it.
So I'm head scratching and having a think. It wasn't overfull of oil, the new o-ring was on the filter, oil leaks stopped. Therefore the crank case breather must be blocked. My last engine had a pancake type filter between the rocker cover and the intercooler, this one only has a pipe. See photo.
Then it hit me. I remembered there is a mesh inside the rocker cover that leads to the intercooler! So off it came and the mesh was absolutely solid with old oil. Lots and lots of gunk later I can see daylight when I hold it up. What I did notice was a small hole in the cover a little bit back from the big fat breather pipe - it looks like there should be a pipe there - but there isn't. I can see hot gasses from the engine puffing out of it now but having had carbon monoxide poisoning previously I don't want it again as this will blow into the cabin.
Is there supposed to be a pipe and if so where does it go to?
cheers,
Hoppy
Hi All,
I spent a long time looking for this and found OAT, pink, blue, silica free etc etc. I've seen on other forums all the arguing about which is the "correct" coolant. When I had this engine fitted it came with blue coolant.
I've just completed an almost full service and my MOT is soon to be booked, my next job is a coolant drop and replace. So, which is the correct coolant for a 155,000 mile 1999 plastic manifold M51 please?
Well that's the first of all 4 being done. I took it slowly so the best part of 3 hours. I've read that some people can do it without removing the arch liner, I've no idea how. Must be Houdini's!
It should be half the time tomorrow for the front RHS. I'm glad I have an impact driver for that bottom nut on the front shock thats for sure. My neighbours think I have a Range Rover fetish