Ok thanks mate. We might just be over sensitive due to having done the work recently hahaha

I would have a look but I'm in Tanzania working so it will have to wait hahahaha

Morning all,

SWMBO has reported that on the local test drives that as the car is rising when the bags pressurise it's now feeling a bit jerky and making clunking noises (front and rear) as it goes up and down. I get her to put it up to full and down on the bumps at least twice a week.
Prior to my EAS saga caused by tightening a leaking oil cooler nut (other posts) and swapping out a leaking ROS airbag it was silky smooth with no noises.

Any ideas please? My thoughts (wet finger in the wind) is bushes but this is a new challenge from Rommel this time!

cheers all!

Island4x4 told me that Boge no longer make the rears, they use Woodhead ones now

I used to work in encrypted voice comms over GSM / CDMA. It was much harder over CDMA. Also google search rainbow tables hacks. For a small price you can buy a radio called USRP with open btx loaded onto a pc attached to it. With the right knowledge (again - Google) and you can set up your own GSM base station. Chris Paget did it in 2010 see this (https://www.theregister.co.uk/2010/08/02/gsm_cracking/)

As Brian H said and I used to explain to customers it's ok putting this on your phone - can you prove it hasn't been tampered with? If the phone has been tampered with and bad guys/good guys can listen to your mic or speaker then it's game over and it's all pointless anyway!

GSM works using TDMA correct. UMTS encryption isn't that much harder to crack as it's already been done (https://www.infosecurity-magazine.com/news/3g-encryption-cracked-in-less-than-two-hours/) and (https://www.redcom.com/3g-4g-smartphone-security/)

The basic design of GSM is that the phone will ALWAYS connect to the strongest signal, so all you have to do is turn up the power. All comms normally is encrypted from tower to phone, then phone to tower. It is not encrypted once it is in the BTS equipment. Remember all the noise about back doors into Cisco/Huawei/ZTE equipment? Thats where your calls get tapped it's called "Lawful intercept". Air interface eavesdropping is easy for a state to do,very easy. Did you know that in India GSM encryption is banned? All calls (when I was in the industry anway) were in the clear.

Anyway Google is out there but I can assure you that there is much better stuff out there than Whatsapp. Whatsapp uses IP data to communicate, there are other methods that don't use IP to communicate and they are very hard to find unless you are specifically looking for them.

So the only way to not be tracked is to go full luddite, ditch all tech and live in the Gobi desert, but I bet even there they have GSM coverage these days hahahaha

Welcome aboard mate,

I'm pretty new on here and mine is always trying to trick me with new challenges ;-)

Complete side note, but its worth knowing that many shops with free wifi have it as it also allows them to track people moving round the store by their phones location. With multiple Access points down to the area of shelving your stopped at if they wanted/needed to. So half of what you state above can and does happen, though probably not with as much data as they might find useful.

They also use Bluetooth beacons so if it's on then they can follow you wifi and bluetooth have individual MAC addresses. All for your personalised experience - donc'ha know!

As far as I know you guys are correct in that Book Face is one of the dirtiest ones out there. I used them for 2 years from 2007 - 2009 and came off as I thought they were insidious.

Some web browsing protection can be used with Ghostery (see how many web beacons, trackers and other crap is blocked), AdNauseum - it actively clicks and messes with web page trackers and blocks ads, U block origin is another good ad blocker (but don't run Ad Nauseum and Ublock Origin together) and finally "I Don't Care About Cookies". I travel a lot so I do turn those off when I'm home - it slows the browser down otherwise. But there is another trick - see my final note at the end.

I also got told in an old line of work, if you use free/public WiFi spots and don't delete them from your phone, it will actively poll looking for all the free WiFi access points - so if anyone walks into shops or areas with tracking your phone will identify itself. Now remember what Google did, they scanned all the home WiFi access points - so it could help you with navigation remember - so they probably have all the records anyway.
Customers used to say "Why do I need your product, I don't mind surveillance, I have nothing to hide" with big beaming smiles. So I used to say well why don't you ask the bank to send your bank statements on postcards, remove all your curtains and take front and back door off your house. After all you have nothing to hide. Then I used to sit back silently and finish my drink.

I used to love the look on their faces when the penny dropped. They then used to buy our product ;-)

Anyway I spent years telling people that all this was going on and was told more times than I care to remember that I was part of the tinfoil hat brigade and conspiracy theorist. "Why would the government/MI5/GCHQ/NSA/5 Eyes etc do this? They wouldn't". They do. Every cell site is connected to GCHQ and they can access all SMS's and meta data over the phone networks.

I told people, they do it because they can and they will keep doing it until they get their fingers caught in the cookie jar. Then they will say it's for our own good, our security, to stop child abuse etc... but it doesn't change anything. The bad guys go Stone Age tech, and you can't spy on that with other computers. Our enemies are not stupid they know our capabilities.

Surveillance slurping is so great it can only be used forensically - after the fact - not to prevent. So it's all bullshit and all I predicted has happened. No smart Tv's or Alexa's or any other "OK Google" crap in my house.

That's enough for now but if any of you are interested there is a great tool that runs on Raspberry Pi's called Pi-Hole. It's a black hole for ads, trackers and stuff (https://pi-hole.net/). I use it on my home network and it works a treat. You do have to be a bit tech savvy, but not that much. I managed to follow the instructions and had it up and running in less than an hour. My Android box no longer has ads in the apps :-D

ttfn peeps,

Hoppy

Thanks for the info. I had fun swapping a rear airbag. I had a spare (as the car came with 2 rears and a front spare). I pressure tested (natch) the going to be new one - all ok. Fitted it, bubble tested it and no bubbles. Slowly it kept going down. I removed the airbag just before I was going to nuke the car from orbit and did another check on the airbag. The o-rings that were ok on the pre-fit test were now leaking ever so slightly. Luckily I have spare o rings now thanks to Lidl man aisle ;-)

I read on your other post that those Terrfirma shocks are bigger, do they work with standard airbags? If so then I'm going to order the same as you and do it all when I get back home.

Followed by the Wammers EAS check and test that someone linked to. I searched and never found that before - it's a godsend!

Hi RedRaptor,

How did you replace the airlines? (Ok I just spotted the airline in the photo!) I bought some 6mm airline from a pneumatic suspension supplier but it's either 5.9mm or utter crap. I can't work out which because it leaks when I push fit it. So it's part of my ongoing suspension refresh when I get back from Africa - once I've sorted the bloody EAS hahahaa
cheers,
Hoppy

Hi all,

I'm home now so back to the P38 air suspension tomorrow

I suspected it might be that. My drive's on about a 15 degree up slope so I thought that may have something to do with it.
I read on the Stockholm views P38 article that he wired up his delay timer so it only operated whilst the car was actually running. I'll leak test on my return, but my ocd with niggles will mean I will have to leak test the whole system.

This morning I checked on the car and FL is up and all the other 3 corners are down. The air reservoir doesn't seem to keep a full charge overnight and it's always around 20psi in the morning.

Should the air tank keep a full charge over night or at least hold the same amount that it was parked up with? I'm guessing it should. If it is going down where would be the most likely culprit? I'll have to wait until April when I get back home now before I do any more investagative work.

Thanks for all the advice so far!

Sorry to hear about the mishap OS.

No snow here. We had some Monday and SWMBO drove me to Warrington in the quattro TT, she was sliding everywhere, it was quite funny.

UPDATE So it's Jackanory time....

So I have now fitted a new rear height sensor (OEM), bought new nylon rod and finally calibrated the 4 heights. Now it's time to see if the suspension stays up at the back. I now know I need to replace my 4 bump stops as they are a bit shagged and worn out.
I have fitted a pressure gauge so at least I can see the pressure in the air tank now.
Only downside a bloody transit van smashed my drivers mirror clean in half (bar steward) on a country road.
I only have today and tomorrow to see if this fix holds as I'm off on a short notice job back to the US for a month.... If I can fly to Dublin on Sunday that is hahaha

Hahaha thanks Gilbertd, I'll visit them tomorrow then!

My RR height sensor is sheared across one of the seized solid bolts (lower one). That might explain a few things. Next mission is to somehow get a grinder in and cut the nuts off

Well I did find a sticking NRV. The flattened end that comes through the brass block had worn a channel into the brass and stuck. I moved it and the end snapped off. Not happy. So I had to buy a block from the bay of fleas. I have managed to jury rig the NRV into the block with a spring compressor (thread), lined it up and let go. I haven't had time to check the ride height sensor today, that will be tomorrows swap over, but I can say that using the Nano in High mode all settings and live readings are almost spot on, same for normal, same for low. When I park though the RR corner drops, sometimes both RR & RL then stay the same height. When I then get back in I get the tick-tick-tick-tick the whole car drops to 70mm all round. Then I have to wait for the tank to fill before it rises up.

I appreciate the advice guys and thanks. I'm going to start with checking the NRV's then move over to checking the height sensors probably swap left & right rears with each other tomorrow, if the weather holds

quote here As a random aside, a few weeks back i was towing a trailer home in the snow, and randomly got an EAS Fault out the blue shortly after leaving the mother in laws. First time its ever had a fault, and i was expecting the worst, bumpstops etc while towing wasnt going to be pleasant...

However all it did was light up the four lights on the height button... No "35mph" warning or deflate to the bump stops, it just sat where it was. I drove a short distance to find a safe place to stop and got nanocom out (luckily it was in the glovebox), it said front right height sensor had some issue. Reset the code and everything returned to normal and its not come back.

That's the classic dead spot on a height sensor fault, in your case, front right. You obviously hit it at just the right spot.> quote here

That happened to me first for about the last 30 mins of driving before I stopped for 45 mins to turn around.

Gilbertd wrote:

On the Nano you have to open a valve for a corner and then open the inlet or outlet valve too which makes a corner go up or down. What was the actual fault you had when it dropped? No fault whatsoever. I had jacked up the front to get under the engine to tighten up the oil cooler pipe nut. Let the car down off the jack and it went down to the bump stops with no fault in Nano.

I also could only open the front LHS valve. I could turn on/off the compressor but my Nano doesn't seem to be able to do all it should.

My suspicion would be a height sensor with a dead spot on it's travel. If it sits at that spot for more than 30 seconds, it will go into hard fault. The stored fault will tell you which one. If you lock it at a different height to where it was when it faulted (so, if on a motorway I would suspect motorway height, so lock it in normal) and it doesn't do it, that will narrow it down.

If you have a Nano, why didn't you just plug it in and reset it as soon as the fault occurred rather than have to drive on the bumpstops?

Because I left it at home by mistake and won't make that mistake again I can tell you!

OR could it be one of the NRV's?

To chase the fault I have swapped RR & RL air lines over and RR still stays 10-20mm below the other 3 so I'll investigate further tomorrow (wheel off time).