As part of my ongoing service I filled up to the line on the dipstick, went out for a drive and I could smell hot oil. Open the bonnet and saw the mess out of the cap.
I changed the oil yesterday and wondered why it was blowing oil out of the filler cap. Then I realised that the oil filter housing didn't have an o-ring on it like it should have and thought that was a bit odd. I put on the new o-ring.
I also couldn't stop the oil cooler leaks but I finally managed it.
So I'm head scratching and having a think. It wasn't overfull of oil, the new o-ring was on the filter, oil leaks stopped. Therefore the crank case breather must be blocked. My last engine had a pancake type filter between the rocker cover and the intercooler, this one only has a pipe. See photo.
Then it hit me. I remembered there is a mesh inside the rocker cover that leads to the intercooler! So off it came and the mesh was absolutely solid with old oil. Lots and lots of gunk later I can see daylight when I hold it up. What I did notice was a small hole in the cover a little bit back from the big fat breather pipe - it looks like there should be a pipe there - but there isn't. I can see hot gasses from the engine puffing out of it now but having had carbon monoxide poisoning previously I don't want it again as this will blow into the cabin.
Is there supposed to be a pipe and if so where does it go to?
cheers,
Hoppy
I'll go for OAT, I don't mind flushing it through I did it on the last engine.
I've done 2 flushes of oil in a week (cheapo Wilko oil for flushing) and it's still coming out like black tar!
Hi All,
I spent a long time looking for this and found OAT, pink, blue, silica free etc etc. I've seen on other forums all the arguing about which is the "correct" coolant. When I had this engine fitted it came with blue coolant.
I've just completed an almost full service and my MOT is soon to be booked, my next job is a coolant drop and replace. So, which is the correct coolant for a 155,000 mile 1999 plastic manifold M51 please?
Gilbertd wrote:
PTFE plumbers tape on the pressure switch, and doing it up tighter than you think feels necessary, works well.
I did exactly this after I read your advice. Today my car goes up like it's on steroids. Happy camper!
Update:
Fair play to Island, they have checked the other Woodhead rear shocks in stock and they have the wrong size nuts in them, they will be sending me replacements on Wednesday.
and BANG! The NS rear shock nyloc nut ripped clean off this afternoon. These are Woodheads STC3671 from Island 4x4. The nyloc nut does not fit the threaded rod and you can't install the shock as per the photo on the web page as the exposed thread is not long enough to put the nut on. If you re-use the lower rubber from the old shock it fits and exposes around half an inch of thread. The problem is the metal threads in the nut are not gripping the threaded rod, only the nyloc part is.
I've spoken with Island and I'll see what they do, in the meantime I need to buy 2 more rear shocks as their RMA process can take up to 6 weeks and I have an MOT looming and drive to Limoges coming up.....
Hi Whiskey,
Mine was running at 850 ish and a mate with a Nanocom changed it to 750rpm. I have a Nanocom now but for the life of me I can't remember how to change the idle speed setting!
3 bags and 3 shocks all finished in 3 hours yesterday.
The test drive was interesting though, I drove over one of the many speed bumps on my road at 20mph (our limit) uphill and heard a rather loud bang from the back and saw something spinning across the road. I stopped and look underneath and guess what? The rear right shock had stripped they nyloc nut and the nut, rubber and big washer were missing and the shock pulled up inside the wheel well. Boges as well. I did think that the nyloc didn't feel like it was biting the thread it just felt funny going on. I'll speak to them about it later today.
Anyway I had my test drive tool kit and had to cut an M10 thread onto the now shit thread. Roadside repair affected and all is ok.
Finally got the expedited EAS kit from X8R today - not his fault, UK mail decided to have a day off after they paid for Saturday delivery - and so far Rommel is up and staying up.
There is a noticable difference in the pressure needed to push the air lines home in the block now compared to the (not so) cheap and nasty red o-ring kit. I bevelled the end of the airlines and put a touch of o-ring grease on them as well. Did a bubble check and all seems well.
Test drive time now.
Replies in no particular order:
I couldn't work out how to get to the clips off the top of the front airbag, one thing I've learned is that any damage costs £££ so I take it easy now!
It took me ages to get the bottom pin into it as well, I eventually got it in once I'd jacked up the axle a bit more. It was frustrating so an old rule from the Royal Marines, "If at first you don't succeed, wrap and have a wet" or take a break and have a cup of tea and a fag (if you are a smoker!). So plenty of cups of tea while working out tactics.
No I didn't trim the pipe, I will today though.
Thanks for the clips info, I'll buy a bag or 2 for future proofing
Rear bag: I made a hook out of twisted coat hanger wire and sprayed lots of WD40 last time then just gave it a clean yank and out it popped. It was harder getting the top one to re-seat correctly but I eventually did it.
Then the impact driver started spinning the shock and lovely hot rubber smoke came pouring out.... Then I saw the nut and got a spanner locked against the hub. More fun was had including trying to fit both of the new rubbers that came with the Boges shock, but no, the new rubbers are too big by about 2 threads. So I had to re-use one of the old ones as it was slimmer or more compressed so that's above the lock nut. The top nut came off easily though, I was surprised.
Right time to watch Manchester City and then get to it again :-D
Thanks for the replies guys, I think I have it bad but then I read other threads and realise it's 3 cheeks of the same arse (to quote a phrase)
I'm not available 7 - 16 September as we're off to France, hopefully in the P38 if not, then the TT
Well that's the first of all 4 being done. I took it slowly so the best part of 3 hours. I've read that some people can do it without removing the arch liner, I've no idea how. Must be Houdini's!
It should be half the time tomorrow for the front RHS. I'm glad I have an impact driver for that bottom nut on the front shock thats for sure. My neighbours think I have a Range Rover fetish
Bloody thing started moving and leaking again today. I think I'll need to fit a fatter o ring tomorrow and try again.... luckily it's Wilko's cheap oil
Gilbertd wrote:
We'll find them a corner to hide in.....
We'll be in the smokey corner hiding in the fog of war
Nope hahahaha. I'll be there with Sunray :-)
hahaha I don't normally do that, here you go (http://forum.retro-rides.org/thread/196180/range-rover-p38-leap-faith)
I saw a stage 7 PMC armoured SUV while working in Basrah that had been hit by a shaped charge projectile through the armoured glass. Obviously it killed the occupants of the back seats but the impact hole was at head height, lovely and neat and about 4 inches in diameter. Nothing left of the exit window.... or the poor souls in the back.
The one give away with heavy up-armouring even with air is the body roll rate, unless serious pro upgrades are done the roll is much slower and ponderous compared to normal.
All sorted, believe it or not it was the top one, it wasn't fully home. It felt tight yesterday but tightened up quite a bit more. Time for leak testing!
Thanks mate
Still bloody leaking. Any tips please guys? I fitted new orings yesterday, the top one is leak free. Bottom one is not. The oil cooler looks new-ish as well, threads don't feel mangled either.
I'm taking the new a/c condenser off again now as I don't have octupus tentacles to get into the gap.
Hi all,
I found this today - enjoy it is 4 pages long and has some good photo's on it P38
cheers,
Hoppy