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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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None armoured that I saw hahaha. They were everywhere, I've never seen so many in one city/town ever before.

Ah yes, I did have it off when I was swapping stuff between blocks. Thanks. I also dismantled the block and found an extra (!) o ring jamming the middle NRV. No idea how that got there - I was probably too tired when I made that bloody mistake.

I'm going to get a refurb kit and go over it slowly using black o rings this time, not the red squidgy ones. Thanks for the advice mate

Redraptor - I'm impressed! I'll be following with interest and jealousy hahaha

Autumn camp should be good for me too. My current hit list is:-

aircon - condenser arriving tomorrow
seat heaters - snafu'd
blend motors - binding
xyz motor - won't go into low range
head lining - falling off

no10chris wrote:

Mukiwa wrote:

I had a transmission "problem" after my Congleton c**ts swapped out my previous engine. It got really bad when going from park to D when cold but the clunking got less as it warmed up. Slowly though the thump felt through the car got worse. I did take it back to them and they told me it was just a worn transfer box chain, but was ok.

Anyway when I had this engine fitted by Dave and his dad at Eastcoast4x4 he asked me did I know that only the bottom 2 bolts were holding the transfer box to the engine? I asked would that explain the thumping noise? He said I'm surprised it didn't fall out as the 2 that were in were loose as well.
So now I have all the bolts and only a mild engagement clunk compared to the massive thump I used to get.

I reset all the values after I collected it and it drives nicely now.

To be truthful, I can’t see any reason why anyone changing an engine would touch the gearbox, there’s no need to go anywhere near it, think it might of just been bad luck that you got the clunking after the work was done.

Ah yes on that I agree, but what they did was fit an aluminium intake manifold engine to my plastic 99 MY P38 telling me that it wouldn't make any difference.

This meant that they couldn't match it to the newer gearbox, so they played mix and match, to be honest if they had told me I really wouldn't have minded as I understand why. What really pissed me off was that they didn't tell me because at least I would have known for the future. They also got very abusive and angry when I returned it 3 times for them to correct their cockups.

This only came to light when Dave asked my if I'd had the gearbox swapped as I had the wrong one for the car as well as the other 2 bolts missing problem. When he mated correct loom and plastic manifold engine to the car the gear box selection wouldn't show up on the dash. I still have the gear box but Dave had to remove the correct loom and re-install the old loom which funnily enough worked.

Oh and once the engine heated up it wouldn't restart - they told me they'd swapped my working FIP onto the donor engine. They didn't and the lovely worn out FIP had the hot start snag. My car had the hot start kit fitted but I had it disconnected on the old engine as the car was ok without it.

As I'd read up on the hot start problem I got them to connect the hot start kit to the new engine and then they fried the ecu, I was stood there when they did that. The only good thing they did was bleed my brakes and what a good bloody job they did. They have been awsome since.

Anyway we all know which garages/mechanic's we will never touch with a barge pole again.

I used an angle grinder and 2 x B&Q clamps to hold it down. I had molten plastic and spiders webs all over the kitchen hahahaha. Wife was not happy

I can vouch that the orange ones are pants, they are way too thin and too soft. Black only.

I finally got my EAS working again today. Result! Swiftly followed by a reek of diesel in the car while out on my test drive. The lovely ethanol has destroyed another set of leakoff pipes! Luckily I'm learning what to keep in stock hahahaha

and now I am home the saga continues!

Gilbertd wrote:

Mukiwa wrote:

When I checked my RF levels my wireless thermostat is on 933MHz,

I hope it isn't, that's in the middle of the O2/Voda downlink band. It'll be on 433 (most likely) or 868 if it's very new. Then again, having 32 grands worth of portable spectrum analyser as personal issue means I'm a bit spoilt......

You are correct - brain fart my end - I wrote it on the back 868.2MHz. I do see a lot of harmonics etc on the cheaper usb dongles, but I don't really have any interest at the higher frequencies I just like to see what I can see (hear) sometimes. It started when I wanted to use a pc as a tv server with Myth TV and grew from there!

I wish I had a spec anny that good hahaha. I have different SDR's and dongles and even one set up at my mum's house doing ADS-B because my dad is a plane buff. I showed him the maps and flight aware stuff and he spends hours watching it.

Gilbertd wrote:

Found the source, an own goal, sort of. Checked the car this morning and still the same Ignition Tamper message. Got the spectrum analyser out of the works motor and found that my fob operates on 433.9675 MHz, but there was a very regular data burst on 433.9680 MHz so no chance of filtering that out. It was also very strong, like ridiculously strong, like -48dBm (for those that understand it) but weaker outside the house. House has a wireless thermostat fitted to the central heating system and it's that thing. Quite why it is sending a burst every few seconds even when the heating is switched off and the temperature is stable is anyone's guess but it is. Or it was, now I've taken the batteries out of it, it isn't. I'll need to look up how it is supposed to work, maybe it is expecting to get a reply from the boiler but as that is switched off it isn't so is constantly shouting to it.

There's other signals floating around in the band but at much lower levels so I suppose I now have to wait and see if has cured the Ignition Tamper message and will let the BeCM go to sleep and stay that way.

When I checked my RF levels my wireless thermostat is on 933MHz, whatever is on 433, including my SWMBO installed wireless doorbell, is very powerful. It killed my old battery and I had the dancing locks and lights. I undid the antenna and now just use the handraulic method with the key in the lock.

If anyone is interested you can purchase a £10 ish dvb dongle (marketed as SDR's - software defined radio) and use software such as SDR console spectrum analyser on a laptop to check your RF levels. I also use it to see if my batteries in the key fobs need changing before they die on me and I have to reprogram the key fobs. I hate that job.

I look forwards to this as this is on my "to do" list

I had a transmission "problem" after my Congleton c**ts swapped out my previous engine. It got really bad when going from park to D when cold but the clunking got less as it warmed up. Slowly though the thump felt through the car got worse. I did take it back to them and they told me it was just a worn transfer box chain, but was ok.

Anyway when I had this engine fitted by Dave and his dad at Eastcoast4x4 he asked me did I know that only the bottom 2 bolts were holding the transfer box to the engine? I asked would that explain the thumping noise? He said I'm surprised it didn't fall out as the 2 that were in were loose as well.
So now I have all the bolts and only a mild engagement clunk compared to the massive thump I used to get.

I reset all the values after I collected it and it drives nicely now.

Also my piston has the rubber o-ring shown here O-ring on compressor piston

Yes it's much better. I think I'll go for annual change now, I've got detaching the whole EAS from the car down to less than 5 minutes now. (Guru!)
hahaha

I thought I'd post what my piston looked like when I dismantled the compressor for the overhaul.

Piston skirt

Well that's good news, noises + RR = £££ hahahaha

Hi RR,

Mine is very similar after my rebuild. When I finally get home I'm going to compare the reed valve against the article that Wammer's did on the other site (which is on this forum somewhere).
Mine takes 10 minutes to fill the tank (normal) car goes up. The problem I get is that when I bought the car if I dropped to the lowest setting it came straight back up in seconds. Now I have to wait for the tank pressure to build back up before it moves. Very inconvenient!
Good luck and post the outcome!

One of the cold calling energy companies has an opener "Hi can I speak with Emma please?" If you say that there is no Emma away they go....

I kept them on the phone while driving one day for over an hour. Great fun hahahahha

Then did a redirect to an answer phone hahaha. I recognise the number blocks so every time they call I add that number to the reject / redirect list.

I'm in Beirut for a few days working before heading back to Tanzania and after a drive around yesterday I swear there are more Range Rovers ( no P38's all 322's and newer, normal & Sports) here than I've ever seen in a small place. They are everywhere! I must have seen 20 in about 10 minutes. There are a few LR3 & 4's about and the odd Defender but it's RR's all the way.

Who would have thought it?

TTFN
Hoppy

I don't know myself, thought I'd answer so you didn't think you were being ignored :-D

I bought a new sensor for rear right and that wasn't sided I don't know about the fronts, but it didn't come with nuts so I used nylocs.