Sitrep:
Compressor plug burned and melted
Relay red hot in fuse box
pressure plug failed - last message from Nanocom
compressor fail in the DIS
Gordon came with his trusty L322 compressor and pumped up my tank. We put the car into motorway mode and after gassing for ages he went home.
I left the car over night and all air still in the tank this morning (I have a pressure gauge T'd in) and the car was still at the same height. EAS valve block and airbags now proven airtight :-D
The trip back was as good, cruise control 70mph most of the way and 25mpg. Thanks Gordon!
I checked the system over and cut out the old melted plugs and put 40amp choc box connectors in and a spare pressure plug I had. All working so far.
I tried the air t pieces on each bag with schraeder's and for me the cheapo fleabay blue/black ones were crap and didn't stop leaking so I took them all off again. I bought RS ones and they are air tight. Very impressed.
I'm now putting together a P38 emergency box for travels after this, lesson learned that's for sure.
I'll get to it once I get home and report back
Gilbertd wrote:
Just read the first post again, if you've got a Nanocom you don't need a kicker. Just use the Nano to clear any faults. Even if the pump isn't running you can force it to run to fill the reservoir, clear the faults and it should come back to life.
Don't tell me the Nano isn't in the car?????
It is indeed! It cleared the faults but nothing will run the compressor
Big thanks to Gordon for coming with his spare compressor to give Rommel some mouth to mouth. It's now off the bump stops at motorway level so my teeth will be fine for my run back to Cheshire tomorrow. Thank you mate!
My pump hasn't siezed but the connector pins have done good job of welding themselves together. I would have thought that a fuse would have blown somewhere first but it doesn't seem that way. Has anyone seen this before?
I'm due to drive to Limoges next Friday so I'd like to fix it. I do have a spare EAS but I obviously don't want this to happen again
Click this link to see the damage => (https://photos.app.goo.gl/EiiH68xoURtDieXMA)
I'll ask Gordon to post the pictures
Hi Chris,
I'm only here until tomorrow then a "slammed" drive home to Cheshire.
Will I need the EAS kicker to bring it back to life? If so I'll happily take you up on your kind offer to borrow it.
I have a spare EAS at home but not sure if the driver unit is good or not.
Gordon yes I did try that but I only had a paper clip, time to make a proper jumper cable for the glove box!
I'm stuck on the bump stops with 40 miles to go. Can anyone help until I get home please? I'm off to the hotel now.
Bypass didn't work, compressor is dead
Hoppy
Will it polish out my scratches and dings? Inherited when I bought it, not by me!
I'll get some for my hairdressers car (TT convertible 2003)
What Mukiwa is saying that at 6.5K the light from these is going to be very blue, maybe too boy racer blue. However, assuming these are the same as the ones Orangebean got from PowerfulUK and fitted to his car, they didn't look overly blue. When he and Morat were following me to the hotel at last years summer camp, his lights were noticeably brighter and whiter than the standard Halogens in Morat's car but didn't look too blue.
Correct Glibert, that is what I mean, but I would like to hear a real world report from someone in the unlit countryside as to how good they are in the dark AND against oncoming lights. That's my big problem, Rommel's TOC H lamp light seems to vanish against all the modern eye burning LED and LHD car beam. I love a bright light as good as the next night driver but I wish the lights actually pointed DOWN at the road and not into my eyes. One of the worst I can be in front of or have coming at me is the Nissan Juke style froggy on top headlights with a beam that seems to be almost 360 degree and everywhere but the road.
System flushed and Halfrauds pink OAT refilled. The crap that came out was nasty. All pink and shiny now
The self tapping screw trick didn't work on my heater box. I dreaded removing the complete dash again so I thought I'd try the drilling and spraying lubricant onto the pivot point.
I unplugged the blend motor plug and used a 9v battery to move / free up the blend motors, all good and moving. I drilled the holes, 5mm so you can see through - sorry but I forgot to take pics - and used the straw on the GT85 to aim the spray. I then with SWMBO's help moved through all the button and temp combinations and kept giving it a squirt while it was moving. I then cleared the faults with the Nanocom. Turned the engine off then on and no faults found. Just need to gas up the A/C now!
Pleased to say it worked!
I did find something out though, the Nanocom reported RHS blend motor as faulty. If I'm sat in the car that is actually the LHS passenger blend motor. I'm guessing I either put the motors in the wrong places 4 years ago or LR report from standing looking at the car from the front.
Mine is:
Blue blend motor RH drivers temp
Black blend motor LH passenger temp
Grey blend motor distribution flap
Will do! I'll send you my number on PM. I'll be driving up on Friday
My only concern is they are 6.5k, that's Eastern European old BMW M3 boy racer addon colour. I prefer white 4.5 - 5.5k as apparently the more blue the light the more it disperses in the atmosphere due to water and the less distance it travels. Please correct me if I'm wrong though as I can't remember where I read that.
I ran 6K HID on my bike and with my old yellow night visor it was not a good mix! I couldn't see much as it all went green ( hindsight is a wonderful thing). I took that HID off and went back to normal bulbs. MV's are good lookers but as super models they like daylight and posing not parading in the dark, the dip beam is seriously crap. I had to wire my dip and main together to even begin to see things. Honda's have some of the best lights I've ever ridden with.
I've got night breakers now though hehehe. The normal main beams are probably the best I've ever had on a car but it's the dip that is the problem, it's crap and it gets over powered by all the new cars LED retina burners.
no10chris wrote:
Although it’s against my religion to spend this sort of money on a set of bulbs, now with winter coming , price reduction, failing eye sight , and just fed up with people not seeing a f-ing great Range Rover coming along the road. It’s time to either get these or buy every other A-hole around here a set.
I hear you!
Cheers Gilbert I haven't touched any other linkages, now I won't bother and use the £££ on crude oil!
Evening all,
Is it worth getting the tracking re-done after the full airbag and shock change?
I'm due a drive to Glasgow this weekend and then Limoges the weekend after so I'll be getting it done anyway - I'm just wondering
Any ideas if these are any good? I'm looking at buying some of these as we all know the TOC-H lamps ain't good at night. Especially being blinded now in comparison to all the LED/HID retina burners mixed with LHD lorries without lens converters out there now
Thanks Brian, I have bought OAT and flush. Waiting for a break in the weather now...
I've ordered a new one and slightly bent the tangs on existing the cap to tighten it up. No more leaks from the cap
That's what I thought but it didn't come with one.
Anyway the clean up has made a difference, I just went for a 15 mile drive and ragged it in sport mode and up and down the dual carriageway for 7 miles to see if it would leak.
I got a small weep this time but I still want to cure this over pressurising.
Photo of the weep here => (https://photos.app.goo.gl/AEWbcPMSbeDQzZcU6)
I've just found a page in rave and it says atmospheric vent, so if it is then I'm guessing nothing is missing