Do you have a source of compressed air for the Draper Vacuum kit Paul? Only ask as you mentioned you're working out on the kerb earlier...

Have a close look at the chassis around the steering box mounts. I seem to remember Chris finding a crack in his.

I wouldn't use dishwasher tabs in that way although have been known to use in dishwasher as a parts cleaner! <br>
Apart from the galvanic corrosion issues, there's loads of salt in dishwasher tabs. In addition, the caustics really won't like seals etc. <br>
Stick to a good ally safe coolant system flush would be my advice. <br>
I'm with Gilbertd on the good old blue coolant. Use it in mine (the classic cars as well) and no adverse effects apart from the need to change it every couple of years.

There are 3 on the bay at the moment. It's a shame you have to buy the complete receiver just for the cover. Usually if the mech isn't latching properly it's cos the internals are gummed up with crisps, haribos and all the rest of the crap that's been scattered around the back seat for 20 years! <br>
Unclipping the cover and cleaning the mech normally restores the function.

Haven't had a chance to look in-depth yet. At a glance they have a significant difference from the parameters/ presentation of the GEMS data and seemed to miss vitals like RPM.

Can you not run a tap through it to clean up the threads? <br>
If you can't you may be better off inserting a stud instead of cutting the bolt down. It should give a better chance of achieving some useful torque by maximising penetration and threaded area. <br>
A cut bolt will either bottom out before achieving max torque or not extend to the bottom of the threaded area.

C'mon Tony- anyone can tell it's a December 94 4.6 HSE! <br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
or at least they can if they've noticed Aragorn's postings in "the other place" <br>
:-) <br>
EDIT- beaten to it by Gilbertd

For those of you that hadn't spotted this (maybe it was just me), production version 1.32 has now been released!

Stick some HT across those spark plugs and it should act as an afterburner. Give you at least another 200 BHP and 20 foot flames from the exhaust...

Yep- sounds like a good price :-) <br>
Unless your old cats were blocked, probably won't make much difference to performance as OEM cats weren't particularly restrictive, but the new noise from the SS system will probably make it feel faster!

It's a good time to do a dry/ wet comp test before you tear into the motor. Handy to know state of rings and valves before you strip so you know how deep you'll have to go into the motor.

+1 on making the attenuators. Enough components from RS to make 4 would only cost around £6 delivered with loads of resistors left over!

Have you done a compression test Ray? <br>
Assuming you've got the latest firmware patch on your Nano and an SD card installed in it, It'll record in Instrument mode. Do a recording and you can then dump the .csv file onto your favourite file sharing location and we can take a look at the numbers and see what the Nano's telling you. <br>
How many miles has it got on it? <br>
If your manifolds are cracked/ leaking badly enough to be audible, that'll probably mess up your O2 levels at the lambdas. Extra O2 from leaks, seen by the sensors will cause the mixtures to be sent rich to compensate.

Ah well, that's one off the possibilities list then! <br>
Cleaned and re-greased both ends when I replaced all of the UJ's recently. No slop on the splines either. <br>
The hunt for the stiction continues...

When you say drive-shafts Ray, do you mean prop-shafts?

Nowhere near my Microcat at the moment, but this site was recommended in another thread on here: <br>
http://www.allbrit.de/NAV.cfm?PAGE=824356&SPRACHE=EN <br>
Happy hunting!

Have you tried locking two nuts together on the threaded part? As it's your scrap head you could also apply some heat to the head in the vicinity of the stud

Single point fill. I'm suspecting the bayonet adaptor lugs are worn, so that's first on the list to be replaced. Have had a couple of experiences before where the tanks were slow to fill and pump kept cutting out, but never where, in this case, the nozzle wouldn't "dock" and latch properly. Tried 3 different pumps :-( <br>
Oh, and the stereo head unit went phut 5 mins into the trip. Nothing to listen to apart from my money being blown out of the exhaust...

Don't think I will be <br>
Did a quick 500 mile day-trip yesterday, the last 200 of which I had to do on petrol due to my gas tanks steadfastly refusing to fill. My wallet is still in shock from the experience of seeing large amounts of very expensive product being converted into noise and movement. <br>
No way is that car moving again until I've worked out why I can't get any LPG into it!

You can crack the date code to find out when they were made: <br>
https://www.kwik-fit.com/tyres/information/tyre-age