Bleed the system to within an inch of its life. Avoid short cuts!
Was having a tiptoe through another forum today and found a thread that contains troubling info that may or may not be correct (you know what these forums are like!).
Allegedly the pre-Thor cars have a lower set point voltage on the alternator which is incompatible with calcium based batteries, resulting in them never charging completely and an early demise of aforementioned battery.
Anyone got any real-world experience or info on this? My MF31-1000 gives me a warm cuddly feeling whenever I open the bonnet, in the "one thing I don't have to worry about" region.
Now I am!
At least there's no doubt about what failed!
Should be back on the road tomorrow night then...
Or from LRDirect
https://www.lrdirect.com/TBB000270-Differential-Assy./
or take a chance on a used one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-4-pin-Diff-Differential-front-or-rear-/172356092578?fits=Plat_Gen%3AMK+II&hash=item28213942a2:g:HRkAAOxykUZTjJi4
Marty's done a front diff before and I seem to remember a thread somewhere debating whether the rear 4 pin was noisier when put in the front cos it's running in the opposite direction so I'd want to know which end the used one actually came from!
F coff Ashcroft :-)
You can buy a brand new one from Island for that!!!!
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/diff-differential-4pin-ftc3483-tbb100840-tbb100900-tbb000270-p-27886.html
Don't see the need for pegging on a 4 pin for normal (occasional moderate off road) use.
Ashcrofts contradict themselves on the P38 Front Diff Page
Where they say:
In the 2.5, 4.0 & 4.6 P38 the front diffs are all 2 pin.
BUT
Note the additional £50 charge for the 4 pin diff assumes that its being supplied in exchange for a 4 pin diff, additional charges will apply if a 2 pin is returned.
Is yours actually a 4 pin though? 4 pins were meant to be stronger to cope with the 4 wheel traction control.
If this is an undocumented reach into the unknown it'll be why Bob wants to do it. He does auto transmissions for fun.
It's well documented in RAVE- from the front screen where you select the vehicle just pick Defender rather than P38 and look in Rear Axle & Final Drive :-)
_
Actually "My Man" is up for replacing the bearings in the current unit, if it was just swapping a diff he probably wouldn't be interested.
Hmm, there's a limit to how much favour I can ask...
On the other hand, I wonder how the rest of the diff looks_.
That'll take a lot longer and involve much more faffing about with shims, dial gauges, presses and pullers. If you're paying "your man" you'll probably end up paying as much for his extra time as you would getting a warrantied rebuilt diff!
Can be found in late Defender RAVE. Starts with "remove the axle" and gets much more complex!
Much detail on completely rebuilding, shimming and stuff, but not needed if you're just inserting a rebuilt "cassette"
Not a hard job assuming you have a rebuilt unit from Ashcrofts or whoever to swap in.
Very simplistically, "just" a matter of pulling the hubs/ drive shafts out a bit, remove prop connection, unbolt diff, bolt in replacement, reverse stuff you removed.
Probably 3-4 hours work if you take your time and drink copious quantities of tea!
As yours is a late model, it probably has a 4 pin diff, so best to replace like with like
I had that on mine once. Was from somewhere above glovebox cover
Definitely not aircon cos mine's disconnected.
Cleaned the sunroof drain front left hand from top to bottom- not had it since!
Time to get Blue Peter with your compressor... <br>
Knock the centre out of an old spark plug <br>
Araldite a bit of tube of a suitable size to the plug that will fit your air hose without leaking <br>
Connect to air line, shut off compressor outlet valve and pressurise compressor to 90ish psi <br>
Get #1 cylinder on compression stroke (ie both valves closed) <br>
Screw your spark plug/ airline combo into the plug hole tight enough to seal <br>
Take top off expansion tank, system full of water <br>
Open compressor outlet valve to pressurise cylinder then close<br>
Watch for bubbles in header tank <br>
If no bubbles, has pressure held in cylinder? <br>
Small chance engine will try to turn over when you do the above so lock crank off by convenient means. It won't try to turn hard but you don't really want it moving <br>
Repeat for other 7 cylinders <br>
If you don't get bubbles in tank and pressure seems to hold, chances are your block/ liners are OK and something somewhere is airlocked
Let us know how you get on...
Be worth getting the main bearing housings/ crank checked for straightness/ ovality as well. <br>
By base gaskets I'm guessing they're talking about the O ring type liners as supplied by Turners http://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/ductile-iron-flanged-liner-c2x20634989 <br>
Pricier at £432 inc VAT for set than the Island types at £299 inc http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/cylinder-liner-da1185-p-27307.html <br>
I'd go for the Turner type. An extra seal can only be a good thing. As for the block, I'd use the spare just to keep the car on the road. That way you don't have time pressure to get yourself mobile again.
Dug out my LPG emissions result printout from my MOT in August <br>
CO % Vol..... Min=0 Max=3500 Actual 0.599 <br>
LPG ppm Vol.. Min=0 Max=1200 Actual 58 <br>
Confirms Gilbertd's info above <br>
EDIT- which he's already done above. I'm typing slowly tonight!
What Gilbertd says! Get it tested on LPG... <br>
Re your STFT and Lambda readings, I suspect you're using a generic device (ELM or something) to get your info (going by the lambda stuck at 1v.) <br>
You've got Titania sensors on your 94 (0-5v). Generic devices usually assume a Zirconia sensor so return a 1v peak reading. <br>
I never managed to get sensible lambda data using generic readers on mine (upside down graphs and that sort of thing) and it wasn't until I got first the Hawkeye and then the Nanocom that I got data that actually made sense!
How long is long?.... <br>
Approx twice the length of a piece of string?! <br>
Long is actually the interminable time it took to flash the Nano with this patch. Warns of 7 mins on BBS site- took twice that on mine :-)
so its gorra be something that doesnt like getting hot and is stopping working...<br>
Or a crappy corroded connector somewhere in the MAF circuit perhaps?
Single point or sequential gas Aragorn?
You're spot on for the later ones Marty. Owners handbook (2000-2001)says: <br>
_Engine cooling system (petrol and diesel models)
Use carboxylate formula/organic acid technology (OAT) based coolant. This is an
extended life ethylene glycol based coolant containing no phosphates, silicates,
borates, nitrates, amines or methanol._ <br>
For the earlier ones: <br>
_Engine cooling system (petrol and diesel models)
Ethylene Glycol based anti-freeze (containing no Methanol) with non-phosphate
corrosion inhibitors suitable for use in aluminium engines._ <br>
Reason I use Blue is that I've got gallons of the stuff kicking around the workshop. <br>
As Marty says though, don't mix them and flush thoroughly before changing types. They can turn into a nasty paste if mixed!
Says £149 on that link so £60 would be a bit of a bargain! As you're buying used, watch for any rattles- these oil-free ones are harder on the bottom ends than the "wet sump" models. <br>
Can't see the CFM for it. You really want at least 6 to run any air tools. Air saws, drills and even windy guns will give an asthmatic wheeze after a few seconds otherwise!