Have taken the plunge and booked hotel, so it's on for Summer Camp!

This is the internet Shep. Naming names is a bad thing when Google can so easily drag up every little instance where the name is mentioned, especially as most of us use the same names across forums. As George says, if you were to name and shame on the other place you'd instantly be flamed and banned and the other place does have its uses! If you've hung around the other forum for long enough you'll know who the doctor is. If not I'll pm his nick to you. <br>
Just for fun, have you ever tried Googling yourself? Stick in your name in inverted commas. You'll be amazed what facts come back about you... <br>
EDIT- apparently his latest disaster is a computer crash that has resulted in him losing all of his information and hence contact with his customers. If you depend on a computer for business (or even not), you back the bloody thing up and back up the back up! Maybe it's a good time to sell him a backup solution, by post of course!

If you're going for the bluetooth ELM, be wary of which one you buy as there are some out there that don't talk to the app. <br>
I use Torque Pro and OBD Fusion on my Android Galaxy Note and https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009NPAORC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which seem to play nicely together.

I've got exactly the same...

Before you rush to Machine Mart, have a look at these:<br>
http://www.sgs-engineering.com/garage-equipment/trolley-jacks <br>
Friend of mine's just bought the 3 ton low profile and I'm pretty impressed by the quality. If all you ever work on are RR's you won't need the low profile. The standard 3 ton looks a bargain at £58.00 delivered next day. <br>
Edit- £58.00 + VAT delivered next day!

I think that's the case!

Sloth is pretty much loading an entire P38 into his car and bringing it to me at Summer Camp :-) <br>
... among which will be the MAF

Ah, if only I could! Due to the temporary demise of my LPG system (gas leak somewhere between 1st solenoid at tanks and engine bay), I'm running full-time on petrol at the moment and the rich running is irritating. I hate the smell of that unburned cash coming out of the back end! <br>Gilbertd wrote:

Live with it until we can sort your LPG system out at the Summer Camp......

Given that it's such a simple component, if you want to be very unspendy, I'd go for this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-P38-Genuine-Wabco-Front-ABS-Wheel-Sensor-STC2786-441-032-7590-/331829563183?hash=item4d42954f2f:g:3hMAAOSwfcVUCXlF. Used that breakers a few times now. Their parts are always clean and fast post. The one non working bit I got from them was refunded next day after 3 weeks (with me!) without any quibbling. <br>
If you want to go new, there's a range of prices. These are indicative: https://www.lrdirect.com/STC2786-Sensor-Abs-New-Rr-Front/?

I'm getting some strange volumetric flow rates on my MAF (datestamped 1996) and my backup MAF (history unknown- dunno why I keep it really). Both are cleaned, but are probably at the end of their lives so... <br>
Time to buy a replacement. The quandary is, obviously I'm not going to give LR £980 for a new genuine one (if they even have one) so the options are

• used off of eBay (history unknown)
• Bearmach (£90 ish)
• Allmakes (ditto)
  <br>
  I'm not even considering the "new" ones advertised on eBay <br>
  Anyone here had realtime experience of the above or any ideas for alternatives? <br>
  I'll probably post a query like this on the "other" site, then sit back and wait to be flamed <br>
  :-)

I saw that one at £7.50 and assumed it was a miss-print! Could be the absolute bargain of the century. <br>
On the other hand, swapping it out twice might make it less of a bargain. Good luck with it- keep us posted

That's no excuse Tony! <br>
Road kilometers are about the same as I'll do. The rest is feet up on the ferry :-)

Tony <br>
The testing won't have checked the clock under actual installed conditions. It needs to be shaken around and have temp and humidity variations as the mech inside gets gummed up/ worn out and the vibes from the car can start/ stop it. You could wire it direct as you've suggested above for test purposes, but I bet it still gives problems. Worth a try though...

Morning Marty <br>
I'm conscious of the fact that this is as much about giving time as well as receiving, so I'm not looking to be too ambitious in what I want to achieve. I'd like to fit my BMR kit, which as I'll be spending time with wheels off brake bleeding, I may as well replace pads all round. I'd also like to take advantage of Gilbertd's LPG expertise and do a complete service and set-up on my system- going to have to take vapouriser off anyway to get at the brake stuff. If there's time, hopefully Sloth will be bringing up (amongst other bits) the tilt/ slide mech from the upper steering column as well as the surrounding plastics, so I may fit that. <br>
I'll be bringing the other half's event shelter (hopefully the RR will fit underneath). Not too much crawling around under the car so I can work under that, assuming you have some hard standing where I can put it up and jack the car, so I don't need to be in the workshop bays. Be nice if you have a "clean area" inside where I can do the dismantling of the actual ABS stuff though. <br>
The logistics of what can be done in the time and the programming of work also includes having the car working enough in the evenings to get to the B&B or whatever. I'm going to come up on the Friday during the day so will have some tinker time then. I'll be booking B&B for Friday and Saturday nights. I'd be interested to know if anyone else is staying rather than "commuting". I can then potentially book more than 1 room if required. Let me know all, when you reply to this thread. <br>
As far as bulk parts/ fluids, I've already got my bits on the shelf (or hopefully being Slothed), but 5L of brake fluid would seem like a good bulk purchase. <br>
As for inviting others, that seems like a good call. A set of ball joints per day is doable and will only tie up 1 bay for 2 days. If we crack on we can possibly do both in 1 day. <br>
I'll add in any other thoughts I have on here when I think of them <br>
Cheers <br>
Mark

If it's drunk 3Lof water, that must have gone somewhere. You'll need to find the leak. Few things to check (apart from leaky hoses and visible stuff) O ring on cap, water pump<br> If the coolant tank was empty, you'll have to properly bleed the system, not just top it up. Follow RAVE bleeding stuff to the letter, no short cuts!

1. Disconnect radiator bleed hose at the radiator.
2. Blow through hose to clear any residual coolant.
   Reconnect hose.
   CAUTION: If radiator bleed hose is not
   cleared of coolant, air may become
   trapped at top of radiator during refill,
   leading to subsequent engine overheating.
3. Fill expansion tank until coolant is level with
   base of neck.
4. Start engine, continue filling at expansion tank
   until coolant level stabilises at the ’COLD
   LEVEL’ marking.
5. Run the engine until the thermostat opens (top
   hose becomes warm).
6. Stop engine, allow to cool.
7. Check coolant level, top-up as necessary.
8. Refit expansion tank filler cap.

I think it's a PR campaign by Ray to drive up insatiable curiousity about his exhaust system. After all we're all (almost) talking about it!

Even better- get yourself some fluorescent face paint and scare the cr@p out of them :-)

Should give your neighbours a laugh anyway, watching you peering around under the bonnet in the dark with a black light

All of the above Spiggy! Plus drips, dribbles, bubbles etc. Basically all of the dye should be inside the system so any sign of it outside- that's where one (there may be more) of your leaks is. Best done in the dark as well as it's not quite as flourescent as you'd hope. Edit- fluorescent even. Flourescent is what you might find in a bakers!

Same symptoms as me then! Maybe the other invisible posts are all people complaining that they can't see the posts!