Yes- both sides dip (or rather tilt) on cars that have them fitted. It's not a dip function. It's a reversing aid.
The photochromatic glass ones provide a true "dip" function, but not that many cars have that, and at a couple of hundred quid to replace, when they get broken, few people bother.
As Gilbertd says, it's a failed pot in the drivers side. I have exactly the same problem on one of my cars. Tilts upwards instead of downwards when reverse is selected. Tilt function duly deactivated!
The Thor will always feel quick, compared to the GEMS. Different TPS mapping giving much more "oomph" with small initial movement of the loud pedal and better low down torque curve. GEMS revs a bit more freely at the top end though (but that could be down to the Tornado mapping).
If you believe in the RPI engine and have documentation to back up that it is what you've been told it is, why not swap the engine with your red one? A weekend's spannering and the red one has a nice fresh engine.
Now if you were tempted to break the blue one, I happen to know of someone who would buy the door cards and loadspace trim panels off you :)
A key question is the category of the write off David. Cat C or Cat D? How much MOT left?
The RPI engine is a plus- even though it's an RPI (who are legends in their own lunchtime for their inflated prices and skills in publicising their excellence and slagging off other engine builders wares), a documented low miles top hat motor will be worth strong money.
Is the warranty still active on it and is it transferable to the new owner?
The missing DSP amp (£700+ to replace) counts against it on the originality stakes.
The insurance write off will remove potential investment collectors from your market, so you'll be left with enthusiasts.
Average prices obtained for average condition complete original Batch 4 VSEs recently are around £2k to £4k. In the condition yours is in, it would be around £1.3k to £2k, but the low overall mileage would add some to that, the motor some more.
My estimate- middle £2000s- and if you broke it you'd probably get that for the engine alone.
Ad says he posts to France Brian. As you say, worth making sure the nut/ bolt is included
Lpgc wrote:
When does spring start? Lol.
Apparently, today is the first day of Spring in the meterological calendar :)
There's bound to be a terminal of the kind you need among this lot
http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Battery_Terminals.html
Just a straightforward insurance job Shep?
Not me!
Nearly stacked the other halfs car multiple times just trying to get out of the drive into the lane. A P38, even on quality M&S tyres with 12mm tread, on a compressed snow transverse and downhill sloped drive with walls only 500mm either side is just a 2T dead weight that wants to slide sideways and downhill until stopped by the scenery.
Large quantity of rock salt required before I could even get it (shamefacedly) back into the drive.
Mine's bypassed- just a hose from inlet manifold straight to exp tank. Haven't had any issues with throttle body icing so far in this wintry weather.
No more leaks!
None available in my little corner of the world now. Other half emptied out the last 110 litres that she'd put in, on her weekend jolly, so both P38s running on the yellow stuff.
Only plus I can see is that it'll give the fuel trims a chance to drift back to where they should be- assuming they've drifted out in the first place.
PCH115700 - HOSE ASSEMBLY-EXPANSION TANK COOLANT EXPANSION TANK TO THROTTLE BODY [ (V)XA410482 - ]
It's in a different section of the parts manual!
I think Gilbertd used one a while back, which IIRC took a lot of fettling and went pop shortly after. Could be failing memory on my part though.
listerdiesel wrote:
Thanks, Chris, I'm just wondering how effective the Hawkeye and Hawkeye Total are at getting into the Hevac system?
I think you're the only one on here with a Hawkeye, so probably in the best place to answer your own question :)
Like Chris said- most of us here use the Nano, which crawls around the HEVAC system pretty effectively
There's been a lot of chatter around various forums about LPG availability recently, with quite a few of the outlets being out of gas, due to an inability to get supplies from the refineries.
Other half went into the last remaining outlet (most of the original 5 within 20 miles of me have now closed) reasonably close to me, to gas up her P38 en-route on a cross- country trip and was told they were down to their last 500 Litres and weren't expecting another delivery for "3-4 weeks" due to a "refinery fire".
Had a look at FillLPG and a large number of outlets in the south now have red Xs- temporarily unavailable- flags.
Anyone actually know what's going on with supply? Is Big Brother killing off LPG by stealth?
Thoughts anyone?
Only needs a small pump (mine's like a shiny bike pump!) as blow off pressure for the system is 1.0 bar (15lbf/in2). I'm sure that with a bit of creative engineering on the cap you could mod it to make something.
I've found that if you take system pressure to the max on a hot engine, you can induce weeping even on perfectly good O rings and hose joints, so I test to 13psi myself!
I use this Clive
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Interdynamics-Clean-Away-UV-Ultra-Violet-Dye-Cleaner-Leak-Detection-237ml/121342604288?
As for thermostats- had mixed results with Bearmach recently. Compared back to back around 7 degree variance in opening/ closing temps IIRC. No jiggle pin in them either.
Gates are the only ones (admittedly from a sample of 1) that actually opened at 85 and had a jiggle pin.
Heater O rings- if you've got a borescope then give them a good once over. If no leaks, leave them until they do :)
I'm guessing you don't have a static cooling system pressure test rig? That's the best way, with coolant warm and in conjunction with dye, to pinpoint leaks. No running engine removes the flinging effect.
I'd sell you one for £169.99 Shep, but it wouldn't work in yours. P38s are a VDO/ Dayton CD based system. L322s went all high-tech and DVD.
Try these people-
https://satnavstore.com/index.php?route=product/manufacturer/info&manufacturer_id=13
Depends whether your tailgate/ window/ light seals/ sunroof drains are weathertight. If they are and water doesn't get in then seal the hole. Blind grommet/ duct tape whatever.
If the inside environment is wet, leave the hole open so it can drain. You just end up with stinky water sloshing around otherwise.
This one looks like the real thing
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192458537365?
Not too cheap though at £185, but has got "offers"