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The only place for a coil spring is up Zebedee's arse
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I've got the Electrosport 8mm one's on my GEMS and my VSE. No complaints- they just work :)
Realistically, an HT lead is an HT lead, and for normal use, any quality set should do the job. The Magnecors are just a little indulgence on my part.

If it's actually a burned valve, then wouldn't a wet compression test will show it up?

As a side issue here, but possibly related, how do you test an AEB025 MAP sensor to ensure it's actually feeding correct data to the ECU?

Rcutler wrote:

 Makes you wonder why they haven’t come up with a system that allows you to swap them around.

Well they sort of have- they put the battery posts on the centre line of the battery :)

It'll catch fire, leak and fall to bits within 2 weeks...

Perhaps you can persuade dhallworth to drop by with his Testbook?!
All I can suggest in addition to above is, as same on petrol or gas it has to be spark related, so go right through feeds to coil pack, HT leads properly plugged in both ends, HT leads damaged or contaminated plugs.

I've had the occasional dispatch glitch with all of them, apart from Brit-Car so far!
If you don't have access to Microcat, best online parts manual is
http://www.allbrit.de/select.cfm?CAR=L7&SPRACHE=EN&PAGE=

Just in case you don't know, Rimmers, LR Direct, Brit-Car (and sometimes Island!) will get parts to you Next Day if ordered before lunchtime. Not much help if you only realise you need the part on a Friday afternoon though :(

That's an unusual one. Have you damaged the cable or connector when delving around at the front of the engine?

Rcutler wrote:

Thanks, had someone offer me some 20” alloys and tyres for a little more then I was paying for tyres so might go with them anyway.

You might want to think twice about 20" wheels. You're likely to get a harsher ride due to smaller sidewalls, possibly tramlining too. Chris runs 20s and can probably feed back his impressions though.

Almost every panel on the Westminster is damaged in some way (if you include the blurb on rusty door bottoms etc), so it'd need a full respray. Doors, bumpers etc are easy and cheap on 2ndhand market. Ran out of MOT in October.
Probably £2k work at commercial rates and you're left with a Cat N flag. You'd never make money on it, that's for sure!

One for all you fixer-uppers out there :)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332515889794?

If only it'd been a few months ago I wouldn't have had to rebuild mine from a pile of broken ones. Oh well- good experience anyway.

It's a still from the movie "Kick Ass". Dunno about the wrap but I don't think Trump featured in it

I've been in at the top Tony. Had the screen finisher off, both the seams/ joints where you found your crack are fine, but were treated to a coat of sealant, as was perimeter of screen.
I remember your posts well!

If it was me, all you'd see would be my feet kicking!

At the moment, one of these:

enter image description here

Arms both above my head in footwell, holding light, moving cables and wobbling grommets. Seat was all the way back anyway, with back reclined so I could lie along it.
Narrowing down leak source now- it's definitely not outside the throat of the fan inlet (had a hose running into the base of the windscreen plenum area for 30 minutes), so the base seal is OK. I'm back to putting a new improved O ring solution on wiper shaft. Very over-engineered now!

When this thread pinged up as unread, I thought
"Kinell Morat, not again!"
Well done and happy I could help out

Mr Darwin's been chasing me for years. Nearly caught me this time!