Bloody thing tried to kill me yesterday. Lying face up along drivers seat with head in footwell while friend deluged car with hose. Slid too far down into footwell, chest wedged under steering wheel so couldn't breathe or pull myself out!
Managed to get enough air into lungs for one good shout- friend just laughed (as you would). By the time he grabbed my ankles and hauled me out my life was starting to flash before my eyes.
Just to trace a leak...
Well, after standing in the rain overnight, the car is...........
Still leaking!
Now out of ideas, and patience.
dhallworth wrote:
Do the multipoint systems have their own Lambda sensors the way single point do or do they piggy back the cars?
Generally neither of the above.
They let the cars ECU and systems do all of the hard work and analysis, take the injection timings and durations from the petrol system, apply a fudge factor to suit the different combustion characteristics of LPG and fire the LPG injectors
A bit of engineers blue to match up the contact areas should get them back in the right holes- only 4 options for each valve when you start :)
Keep them matched up if you can. They'll have worked themselves in to their own seats and each will be slightly different in terms of contact area etc
Got the cloud, but still no rain, so speed it up a bit Chris :)
No rain here for days :)
After my recent experience Morat, check your carpet and heater box lower parts/ trunking for coolant leakage. I'm assuming my failed Nissens matrix was a one-off QC problem, but you never know.
Both of mine produce steam like that on LPG at idle on a frosty morning. I wouldn't worry about it.
I use this stuff in my cooling systems. Together with a UV torch it's really handy for locating small leaks where the coolant gets blown/ cooked off.
Good for outdoor parties too
http://www.ringautomotive.com/uk/products/Workshop+Tools/Leak+Detection/Fluorescent+Dyes/RLD2
Got a headache trying to read the blurb, so gave up :)
Rcutler wrote:
Its almost tempting to put a battery isolator in there, Whenever I am away or leaving at an Airport I could pop the bonnet and flick a switch.
Don't do it! You'll be flirting with EKA/ sync issues, resetting radio, windows, sunroof every time...
Consider a solar panel and proper regulator, or a 2nd battery installation with split charger
A good cuppa can fix almost anything :)
Wait 30 mins (ish) for Key Code Lockout message to disappear from message panel before attempting EKA
By the way- if battery output isn't good enough it can also cause EKA entry problems
You'll be able to tell more when you're able to plug it into the computer, but in the meantime, check that you haven't got a dent/ pinch in your gas line from tank to vapouriser.
Obvious question though- have you actually got a decent quantity of gas in the tank? The gauges on LPG are more of a wish list than a reflection of reality.
Ah yes, I could have been slightly out in my comparison! Half remembered from when I was doing my heads and justifying the cost of ARPs. Apologies.
Although genuine LR bolts appear to be £6 ish each (!) you can get OEM from LR Direct for 60-70p each, and you're only doing 1 head.
With ARPs you have to buy all 20 as a set. as you say, Real Steel at £152 seem about the cheapest UK supplier.
If you want fast and dirty, just do the minimums! Assuming it's not burning tons of oil leave the rings and shells for another day.
Head distortion can be checked yourself with a good straight edge. No more than 2 thou corner to corner and across the centres is LR tolerance. You'll have to make the call on a skim once you know it's warped (or eroded where the gasket blow is- longer you leave it, the more chance of burning the surface).
New valve stem seals and a quick lap of the valves should do the job.
I bought my head gasket set from Island. They supply one with Elring gaskets. New stretch bolts or ARP studs is up to you, but if you're going to strip it again in the future you may as well go with ARPs as they're approx twice the price of stretch.
EDIT- beaten by Gilbertd again!
Gordonjcp-adm wrote:
> Not sure if it is standard or something that plod added but I've got a grommet near where the rubber tube goes to feed power to the upper tailgate that allowed me to run the cable from my magnetic aerial into the car above the headlining.> I'll have a look on mine once the car park drains below ankle depth.
No extra grommet on my 95 but can you squeeze an extra cable through the top tailgate wiring tube?
After a year of searching and cursing, I think I've finally found the source of the leak into the drivers footwell at the bulkhead end.
I've been through all of the "usual" suspects and eliminated them:
Sunroof drains, roof join above screen, windscreen seal, plenum filter seal, screws/ bolts in plenum cover, drains from plenum area, plenum foam- then the more obscure...
door seal, side trim seal, window seal, throat seal between plenum housing and fan intake, bulkhead penetrations where cables etc go through
Still leaked- not a lot, and only when parked and the wind/ rain was in certain directions.
Got stuck in again yesterday and noticed that plenum filter was wet, but at the bottom, not the cover end. Took this pic to save me tying my neck in knots
The dirty brown area (top left) on the filter was wettest and there was standing water all around the throat area (no drains once it gets in there).
The conclusion...
The water is either coming through the wiper boss, despite all of it's seals being in place, or, more likely, wicking down the shiny new wiper link arm/ ball joint assembly that I fitted when I first got the car.
The solution...
Fit o ring to wiper shaft where it goes through its housing and put in new rubber washers slathered with silicone and
Fit a foam "drip ring" to my shiny new shaft, outside of the plenum throat area, so that water running down will just drip off into the general plenum area.
Let's see what happens :)
Smiler wrote:
Happened to be going to the main dealers. On arrival in the carpark amongst the shiny new (how on earth can you call that a -) Range Rovers she behaved herself again. Locked on the fob unlocked on the fob and started straight away.
Aside from the key switch, are you sure it's not RF interference Smiler?
It's a classic problem- fob not working, move car (away from source of interference), fob works.
Has your receiver had the snip- aerial wire cut? If not, might be worth doing. Reduces the range the fob works at significantly, but also reduces the spurious RF problem.
That little key switch can cause all sorts of issues. A good flush out with electrical contact cleaner, flicking the flap while doing it, followed by some graphite should do the trick.
Maybe (and I haven't tested my theory- it's only a guess) the electronics are smart enough to not allow locking if the ignition key is still in the car?