Smiler wrote:
Blumin eck, how come I couldn't find 'em?
'Cos you didn't put the part number into Google? :) :)
Basically my searching technique is to get the part number from Microcat or the online parts manual and stick the part number into eBay and Google.
If that fails, put the part number into the Big 4
Rimmers, Island, Brit-Car, LR Direct
AMR4779
LRD has it in stock
https://www.lrdirect.com/AMR4779-supplied-by-BRITPART-branded-LAND-ROVER.html
so does Brit-Car
https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/107300/0/rear_screen_washer_jet___range_rover_1994_to_2001
even found one on Amazon- postage a bit prohibitive though
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Nozzle-Window-Land-Rover-amr4779/dp/B01MTCEBUF
And, back on topic, a little charmer and it's on LPG
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152883095644?
If they were banned on ferries, as well as the tunnel, Gilbertd would have to paddle his across on a raft for his frequent continental jaunts!
And of course, you can factor in the risk of identical parts failing at the same time on each car :)
Morat wrote:
I'm hoping that I won't need n+2 redundancy to keep this thing on the road!!
Try running two of them as daily drivers!
Makes the investment in serviceable spares seem much more reasonable, because you still only need to keep one of everything that breaks or wears out.
no10chris wrote:
Surely if it’s wired into ignition switch, so only on when your in the car would cure the problem if it’s as said, signal interference. No power, no interference,
That would do it Chris, but on the other hand, a phone that only works when the ignition is on might be a bit frustrating.
Looking at the spec, the Nokia 6090 whomps out 8 watts which is enough to saturate a receiver next to it
http://nokiamuseum.info/nokia-6090/
This kind of stuff is Gilbertd's area of expertise. Maybe he'll have some ideas, when he stops to take a breather on his latest road trip.
Even though they're not on the same frequency, you're putting a transmitter right next to a receiver which is famous for its inability to screen spurious signals.
Moving the phone base unit and aerial back where it was and testing it will give you the answer!
One of these bad boys would be good enough. Served generations of back yard mechanics before clicky and then digital ones came along.
These days you can probably buy them in Poundland :)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-1-2-Square-Drive-0-21Kg-M-Or-0-150Lb-Ft-Powerset-Torque-Wrench/362208550063?
And yes, removing the front prop will decouple the front and rear axles.
Not a wager I was hoping to collect on :(
If you can face lying under it and dropping the front prop again, test as per the following on the nut in the flange at transmission end.
It's the LR way to test the VC on the Classic- which has the same VC, and recommended by Ashcrofts as well. Removes any torque multipliers from the "do it on the hub nut" test. You may struggle to get 20C ambient though.
_Viscous unit - rolling resistance Bench check NOTE: Testing should be carried out in an ambient of 20 deg C.
1) Secure the output shaft ... (handbrake on, in neutral)
2) Apply a clockwise torque of 27 Nm to the (front propshaft) output flange nut. If no resistance to turn is felt, unit requires replacing.
3) If resistance to turn is felt, apply a clockwise torque of 20Nm to the (front propshaft) output flange nut for 1 minute, this should result in a rotation of approximately 25 deg - 30 deg. If no rotation or a greater force is required, unit requires replacing. _
Out of interest, I've done this test on both of my cars, and they both required 40-45 Nm to get the required rotation in 1 minute.
That's for sure Morat!
The LPG fit on the Vogue SE has done 170k miles and 12 years, with the tank in backwards, probably the wrong multivalve unit and copper feed line held to chassis with plastic straps!
I've also had to fit a new (used) ECU, Vapouriser and renew the flexible hoses and feed line. Matrix injectors are still original though!
It's better value to buy something already converted. If you take the example of that Vogue discussed above, take the £1000 on the road cost, add another £1000 for new sequential LPG (if you fit yourself- £ 1800 if not) you've then got a highish mileage 02 Vogue that you're into for £2000 to £2800. If you shop around and bide your time you can pick up equal or rarer spec with fewer miles, already converted, for less.
As an example, I came across an 01 Westminster 4.0 - all original, think mileage was around 130k, no rot, full MOT, a week or so ago, with a blown head gasket, on gas, which went on to sell privately for around £500.
Probably £400 to spend- O rings for PRV, airbags all round and a couple of tyres. A grand for a tidy 02 Vogue- even with those miles, wouldn't be a bad investment.
As Gilbertd says though- no gas!
I talked to him in November about it:
lack of immediate funds now prevents me insuring before driving to MOT station and then taxing just for a month... I started on the pretty things rather than the some of the core elements !
Last MOT says.. Air suspension > All Suspension units - slightly deteriorated
All Brake discs - worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened
Front Brake pad(s) wearing thin (3.5.1g)
Rear Brake pad(s) wearing thin (3.5.1g)
Nearside Rear Direction indicator slightly discoloured (1.4.A.2f)
Offside Rear Direction indicator slightly discoloured (1.4.A.2f)
Nearside Rear Tyre worn close to the legal limit worn on inner edge (4.1.E.1)
Offside Rear Tyre worn close to the legal limit worn on inner edge (4.1.E.1)
Serious Oil leak Dangerous
brakes are now OK, pads re OK
needs new rear tyres for sure
oil leak is from oil filter area, took off, cleaned but cannot drive it too far to prove its fixed !
its had new alternator, new EAS, New front bearings, new window regulator, new crank speed sensor, MAF sensor, head lining re-trimmed
drives and stops !
LN02YXO is reg
air bags still work, previous owner stated that they have been teh same for the last 4 years..
Did you replace all the discs and pads?
I wonder why rear tyres are worn on inner edge? On a solid axle car that shouldn't really happen.
previous owner changed disks and pads, I would say wear on rear tyres could be from swapping over from the fronts by previous owner....if ya want photos of specific areas just let me know
Do you have any history with it? With that mileage it's likely to have had head gaskets done at least once!
sadly the preious owner was going to send me them, but never did - Previous owner was a genuine guy, his missus was a nice old lady who just loved teh car and weeped as it was being loaded onto the trailer when I picked it up (bought as a non runner- Crank sensor and battery goosed)
£600 would take this, if anyone fancies a flip...
https://www.facebook.com/groups/RangeRoverP38ForSale/permalink/1052732101533380/?
dhallworth wrote:
One thing I did notice was that in the LPG software the Lambda 1 reading was showing a constant 0.5v, checking in the software shows it as being set to having 1 lambda and 0 - 1v which is correct.
Maybe the LPG stuff isn't actually connected to the lambda sensors? Assuming they're actually switching OK when looked at with other diagnostics, then just ignore the lambda value reported by the LPG software. It's only there as a convenience and doesn't interact with the LPG system in any way.
There's probably a setting to say "not fitted" somewhere.
Like I said before Morat, stick a yellow relay in place of the EAS timer relay to eliminate overnight levelling (no matter how wonky the land is that you park on). Put the proper one back in if you need to talk to the ECU.
Tank inspection + Dryer replacement?
It's a Service Item, but not a lot of people know that :)
From EAS SID:
NEW RANGE ROVER
A nine-liter supply tank is mounted to the chassis on the right side. As in the Classic, a single
nylon line serves as both inlet and outlet. The inspection interval is also 30,000 miles, with
dryer replacement required if moisture is encountered. As in the Classic, two reservoirs are
specified depending on VIN: up to VIN TA340460 use ANR3645; from VIN TA340461 and
up use ANR5135.
RAVE
EDIT- gets a few lines in the Service Schedule as well, but at 2 year intervals. Items 5 to 8.
Did you drain all the moisture out of the tank when you did the rebuild recently? It might be something silly like moisture freezing in the valve block.
EDIT- actually, are you sure you have a problem? If the bags were empty after you did the compressor (did you deflate the whole system?!), then it might well take more than 6 mins to fill them. That's quite a big volume of air across 4 bags to get up to 55 PSI.
For just day to day polishing, I use this
You can buy it pretty much anywhere.
If the lacquer finish is worn you're into a more involved repair- an ultra fine cutting compound followed by a waxing. Only if the lacquer layer is intact though- you're looking to polish the lacquer not cut through it.
If the lacquer is worn through, then you're going to be into serious veneer restoration!