Having had a look through old computer records I may have used this product. It certainly uses the same process.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Spray-Max-Primer-Lacquer-684099-Headlight/dp/B0147DESJ4

The wet and dry sandpaper needs to be fromsomething like 180 grit, to break down the yellow film, and working through finer grades, with a battery drill or screw-gun or just by hand, using P400, P800, P1000, P2000, P2500, and finally P4000.

[Edited to show to correct headlight restoration product]

Pierre3.

I read sometime ago, when I had a Mercedes E220 with LED headlights, that if the light packed up you were facing a bill of around £300 to get it repaired/replaced. I believe that it had something to do with the power source that is needed for the light, but maybe I have that wrong.

Fortunately, I never had to find out.

The biggest problem I see with new cars and plasdtic headlight covers is that they go opaque after 6 or 7 years. You regularly see, for instance, a lot of 2001 era E-class Mercs with really dull and dim headlights, and when you look at them in the daylight it is almost impossible to the bulb !!

I bought a German-made 2 pack repair kit to bring mine back to near factory condition. A fait bit of work with different wet and dry sanding and then mask off the front of the car and spray a clear laquer on the lens. You then use a light resistant top coat to prevent the sunlight dulling the finish again. The one thing about this kit was that you could only use the one time, and work quickly. Once opened the finishing coat was on a rapid countdown of a few minutes after which you just have to chuck it in the bin.

But on a plastic lens the results are brilliant and very long lasting. Unfortunately, I haven't got a record of the kit that I used. I think that I gave away the paperwork for it when I sold the Merc. Pity !

Pierre3.

In Ireland we have the infamous NCT test, operated on contract by some Spanish company, Applus, who seem to make up new reasons to fail a car test.

This year I took the P38 for the test and it failed because the tester couldn't read the chassis number behind the front wheel. So I took it to the guy who does bigger suspension types jobs on the vehicle and asked him if he could clean the underseal off it so it could be read. He got a wire brush and gave it a rub, but said it was easily legible. I, unfortunately, didn't get down to have a butchers and took his word.

When I returned, after three weeks trying to get an appointment, the tester took the vehicle back into the garage, a big warehouse with 5 lanes for testing cars, and came back out 20 minutes later and said "No" he still couldn't read the chassis number. The problem this time was that I then had to take the vehicle to a police station, have a traffic officer get down and check the number against the V5, and fill in and stamp a form. Then I had to take this form back to the test station.

When I was with the traffic officer I pointed out the chassis number and he looked at it and asked how could the tester not read it as he could by just bending down by the front tyre. So at the test station I took the signed form in and gave it to the guy, who just said "OK, that's fine, car has passed".

I couldn't just accept that, and I asked for the tester to come out and explain how he could see the chassis number, and why he didn't come out the final time to check it even though I have a form signed by a traffic officer. I just argued until eventually one of the tester came out, and then I asked him to show me where the chassis number was. He went straight to the rear wheel arch and pointed under the vehicle, by the back tyre. So I asked him to crouch down with me and show me the number as I couldn't see it. He knelt down, got out his torch and started looking about while I stood up.

I pointed out that the traffic officer had said that he could see the number by just bending down. The tester guy eventually stood up and said that he couldn't see it, so I asked him if the vehicle was actually a failure then as he couldn't confirm the chassis number. He said it was confusing and he would need to check with his supervisor, who then appeared after about 10 minutes. The tester took him to the rear wheel arch and said that he couldn't confirm the chassis number as he couldn't see it. The supervisor had a look, and then went and looked under the front wheel arch, and said "Look, there it is, you can see it plainly". The other guy said "Oh, I didn't realise that it was there, the numbers are usually under the rear wheel arch".

So I had a strong discussion with the supervisor, and pointed out that it had cost me three trips to the test station, one trip down to my garage man, and one trip to a police station. He just said that he would bring the matter up at the next training meeting but he didn't offer to repay the money for the retest.

So this is what we have to put up with in Ireland with our NCT [National Car Test]. You can be failed for orange bulbs not being orange enough, slight misalignment of headlights, incorrect design of number plates, and pretty well anything else that is the issue of the day. The rules change as and when the testers decide.

Pierre3.

I notice that the discussion point that ran for quite a while on the Mercedes owners forum [classics] has popped up here as well. Are velour seats better/nicer than leather.

My '83 Mercedes W126 has velour, and I specifically held off buying a W126 until I found the grey velour interior that I wanted. As Gilbert says it is much more comfortable on either very cold or very hot days - no burny-bum issues.

I do like the leather in the P38, and in a Lexus IS300 that I have, it is soft and wears well, but velour is like sitting in the 3-piece settee at home.

Incidentally, velour was around £600 more than leather in the '83 Mercedes W126.

Pierre3.

Hi Harv, I think that the same rules may apply in the UK and Ireland, but I am not sure. I had a feeling that fog lights turn of when main beam is switched on, but I bow to anyone who can clarify this.

Gilbert, I was thinking that the problem with new headlights is that they are not focused in any way, they are positioned in the factory but nothing actually directs the beam of light. On old headlights, as everyone knows, there are the glass "lumps" or whatever you call them, and it is these that direct the beam of light. I just feel that a 100 watt bulb with a glass lens can give better light by being able to direct the direction of the beam, whereas the new clear plastic lenses don't have any focusing ability.

New headlights are really just like a torch, it depends how you hold the torch depends on where the beam shines.

I have a 1983 Mercedes W126 with 60/55 headlight bulbs and the lights are very good, as are the P38 headlights. I am happy with them.

Pierre3.

If you think that the lights on the P38 are bad then try a 2013 Lexus IS300H.

I have the Lexus and I can't believe how poor the LED lights are. There is very little difference between dip and main beam, but dip beam is really poor. I am sure that it really is down to headlight design. Having a clear plastic lens and a single, angled light source [headlight] just seems to waste any directional control of the light beam.

In fact I feel that with these new lights there is not actual light beam, it is just a light source.

Years ago I had four KC daylighters, rated at 150 watts each, on an Isuzu Trooper and with them on you could could see everything for about 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile, even a mouse on the road. They were supposed to be good for a mile. One thing that I liked was if some prat came in the other direction and didn't dip his lights I would wait until he was about 200 yards away and then switch on full beam and the plonker really looked like a rabbit in the headlights !! You really would be seeing stars, they were so bright and clear.

On the matter of using fog lights to drive on dip beam, I really hate this. It is also against the law unless there is falling snow or fog. It is not allowed to use fog lights in heavy rain due the the diffraction of the light, they are blinding to someone coming the other way.

One model of car that always, always seem to have foglights on with dipped beam are Nissan Micra's. I hate the darn things and I don't use courtesy when I see one coming the other way at night, I just leave my main beam on in the forlorn hope that the dummy driving might just think about why I didn't dip my lights. But I don't think that Micra drivers have a brain big enough to actually think !!

My P38 headlights are good, but that might just be that in the P38 I am much higher up that in the Lexus, which is very low in comparison.

Pierre3.

Thanks for that. I will pick some up tomorrow.

Pierre3.

Gilbert, I wonder if you can say whether the Holts brake cleaner is suitable to clean out the switch ?

Pierre3.

Hi, I jumped the gun a bit here. I had a look generally and found a fair amount of information on sticking ignition switches.

Thanks Gilbertd, I had all the signs that you have mentioned.

As mentioned a number of times the switch was not popping back out when the key was removed and there was the "Key in" message on the dash display.

I gave the switch a bang and it popped back out, but I do notice that it can stay stuck in if I put the key in and turn the key to start the vehicle, and the stop and remove the key again. I need to give it a tap with the key for it to pop back out and let me lock the vehicle with the remote.

I have sprayed it liberally with switch cleaning spray but it it still tending to stick.

If I want to take out the switch do I need to remove all the plastic panels that are around the sterring column ?

Also, is the issue being caused inside the switch, or do I have to try to remove the whole sterring lock mechanism ?

Regards, Pierre3.

Hi guys, I'm looking for a bit of help.

My 2001 P38 has been behaving itself quite well during the pandemic, despite not being used very much. However, this weekend, after I had been out in it the keyfob didn't lock the vehicle when the button was pressed. It would unlock but not lock.

I have reregistered the key in the drivers' door lock, and I can lock and unlock with the key blade. The vehicle always starts when the key is put into the ignition.

But what I have noticed is that when I take the key out of the ignition switch there is no "click". I was explecting to hear the "click" when the key was removed and I am wondering whether this is somehow connected to the fact that the keyfob won't lock the vehicle.

Perhaps someone may have a solution to this issue. At least I can lock the motor with the key so that is something.

Pierre3.

Hi, I was looking a post somewhere, last night, about fitting a new headlining, but this morning I can't find it anywhere.

The post gave a blow by blow description, along with pictures, explaining the process. I can't remember whether it was on this forum, or the "Other" [.net] forum. I have looked at a lot of posts, just now, and the only one that I can find is on the "Other" forum but there are no pictures any more, just a triangle with an exclamation mark.

If possible, could someone possibly post a link to the the detailed post ?

Pierre3.

I honestly do like the Cashmere colour. I think it looks a bit warmer. For me, the Oatmeal is a bit too grey. When you look at Oatmeal in the daylight it is very much a light grey, whereas Cashmere has a warmer, light yellow shade. I am not sure that I agree with it looking like 20 years of cigarette smoking, but I suppose that, if you fit Oatmeal and then smoke for 20 years, you could get a colour similar to Cashmere !!!!!!!

In fairness, it is all down to the beholder. Does one prefer a grey or a cream/yellow interior ?

Pierre3.

Hi, ref. StrangeRover, I had a look at a Jaguar that my guy finished recently, it was back for some attention to the seats, and I have to say that I don't think that it would suit the slightly yellowy tinge that is in the Lightstone leather. I have the original headling still in the vehicle, and it gives off a warmer effect than the Oatmeal that I saw in the Jaguar.

I just don't think that the Oatmeal is the right colour, and I would have to argue that the perfect colour is either Beige or Cashmere.

So, I am going to check with my guy, tomorrow Monday, and see which would be the better of the two- again either Beige or Cashmere !

Pierre3.

I was looking for advice on the headlining colour and I am very disappointed that people have recommended the wrong shade.

There was a number of "recommendations" that with a Lightstone interior then Oatmeal was the best colour headlining. I rang Martrim last week to ask their advice, and they agreed that Oatmeal was perfect.

This is complete rubbish. The colour required is Beige.

I took the vehicle to the guy who is going to do my headlining, and fortunately, he has lots of colours including Beige. He buys most of his material from Woollies, who I had completely forgotten about, and there was no mention of them on any of the RR threads or topics. I am sorry that I relied on Martrim as their advice is hopeless.

Fortunately, the guy doing my headlining has agreed to take the Oatmeal bolt of cloth against a fresh order of Beige.

I can't understand how people feel that Oatmeal is correct for a Lightstone interior. I didn't have anywhere around Dublin to check the colour, and it looked OK when reviewed on the Martrim website. Beige looked too yellow so I had to rely on Martrim's advice as they are supposed to be the experts.

Anyway, I am only too pleased to a bit extra to the guy doing the job as he will supply the correct colour. I had a feeling that, when the material arrived, that it was too grey and I really should have listened to my own opinion !

Pierre3.

Just a note about the seat cushion - they are still available from LR, and in stock. This is from Rimmer Bros:

The Part Number for the Base Foam

BTR 7482 price is £198.47 plus vat.

Pierre3.

Thanks for your advice, I will give some thought to buying the Nanocom unit.

Pierre3.

Thanks, Gilbert, for the advice. I will have to wait for the weather to improve, as unfortunately, I have to do this on the drive !

Pierre3.

Hi, many thanks for the advice, I thought, all right, that I was asking a bit to much of a general question as I have already read about lots of questions and answers about the book symbol issue.

That's an interesting point about the diesel not looking for AC refrigerant.

I suppose that I am not absolutely sure that I know what to look for, or expect to happen when the air-con is running [or not !]. I will run the engine up at the weekend and get it hot, and then go through the different settings and see what happens. Again, being honest, I am not sure whether I can justify £400/500 for a plug in diagnostic tool, but as has been mentioned without it I could be going around in circles. Do all the diagnostic tools that are advertised, work with the HEVAC system, or is it only Nanocom or Evo ?

I might ask a guy I have had do some work on the vehicle if he can use his diagnostic machine to check the HEVAC system, and see if he can identify the problem. Although having just spent €2800 on getting the front suspension and steering links replaced, and new brake lines, I think that it may need to be on the long finger.

I may see if I can check the blend motors over the weekend, just to see if they are doing what they should.

Thanks for the help.

Pierre3.

Hi, I would like to ask for a bit of advice in relation to the never-ending issue of the book symbol on the HEVAC display.

I have read lots of posts giving solutions to the many issues which affect the air-con and ventilation in the P38, but I would like to see if these solutions are directly relevant to the reason the book symbol keeps appearing on the display in my P38.

I have replaced the pollen filters recently, cleaned and hoovered out the plenum area [?], fitted a new plenum filter, but the symbol is stillon the display.

The thing is, when I turn off the ignition, leave the car parked for a day or so and go back out in the vehicle then the symbol is not on the display, it only appears after about 15 minutes or so after setting off. Is this the air-mix flaps getting stuck, or will I need to go through the whole job of replacing the whole blower assembly.

The HEVAC display seems to clear the book symbol each time the ignition is turned off, but is this only the BeCM checking the system and then flagging the issue ?

I was hoping [!!!!!] that this may only be the air flap motor getting stuck, as described elsewhere, but I am wondering whether this is too simple a solution.

Any advice is appreciated, as I couldn't get cold air for the last few days in the hot weather.

Pierre3.

Or am I asking too generalised a question ?

I have read lots of the advice on re-doing the headlining but I think that I am going to do the same as you, and get a guy I know to do it for me. The biggest barrier to doing it myself is the sunroof, it seems to be a pain to get the panel out, and, I will be honest, I am concerned that I will either break one of the small clips, or that I won't be able to get it back in position again, and that it will then leak.

The window seals are a half hour job, and I noticed that when I took out both seals the framework underneath is perfect.

When you remove the inner seal that lets the glass come free of the glass channel in the outer seal, so it means you can push the new seal down into the door and then reseat the glass, easy-peasy. Half and hour, and a quick polish to the new seal to match the rest of the doors and you're done.

Pierre3.