LR direct have let me down twice out of two orders now. Ordered and phoned to check stock, paid for next day and didn’t ship first one for two days. Second one I cancelled a week after ordering as it hadn’t shipped. Blamed it on courier issues.
Going to call the others in a bit and see if they have stock.
Yep, its that one with the fine thread, £1.25 online but not usually stocked so car off the road again next week. Does make me laugh though it needs a hub bolt on the rear at £1.50 I need to buy a pack of 10! yet when doing a propshaft you don't get enough! Who makes these rules.
Well I have searched high and low and can't find a bolt, its an M12x35 can get one ordered online tomorrow but will call garage which is doing alignment tomorrow and ask if they have a p38 there that I can rob one off. They are an Indy LR Specialist. Then get my insurance's recovery company too take me there. Worst case I keep the car off the road for another couple of days and wait for the bits, including new wheels and bump stops.
Gilbertd wrote:
Rcutler wrote:
yes slower acceleration and higher top speed! haha.
Errm no. Because the larger wheels have lower profile tyres so the rolling circumference stays the same. No different to 16" wheels having 65 profile tyres and 18" having 55 so the rolling circumference, and hence the overall gearing, doesn't change
Yes true! Hadn’t thought about that.
Orangebean wrote:
Rcutler wrote:
Thanks, had someone offer me some 20” alloys and tyres for a little more then I was paying for tyres so might go with them anyway.
You might want to think twice about 20" wheels. You're likely to get a harsher ride due to smaller sidewalls, possibly tramlining too. Chris runs 20s and can probably feed back his impressions though.
Funnily its Chris's mate, Yes I am aware of the harder ride, If anything I find the P38 a bit soft, might be proven wrong! Not sure how larger wheels effect tramlining, yes slower acceleration and higher top speed! haha.
However mine needs two new front tyres, two alloys need attention, can get a set of wheels and good tyres for less then the cost of 4 tyres.
Edit: I found an M8 Bolt and with the aid of a M8 nut its now 35mm long like I think it is. Will order a few bits on Monday as needs two rear bump stops, Hub bolt and Caliper bolt.
Thanks, had someone offer me some 20” alloys and tyres for a little more then I was paying for tyres so might go with them anyway.
On the other side, this looks like an easy fix...
Just hoping it’s not on the M4 and it’s on my drive somewhere. Only place I seem to be able to get a bolt is online 1-2 business days or a breakers, therefor Monday.
Looks like another hire car!
Just went outside to get the post and noticed the drivers side inside alloy had a score mark, it looked new. On inspection the lower part of the brake calliper has been rubbing the wheel! On closer inspection the lower bolt of the calliper is missing. I have had a hunt around for it and can't find it. Very unlikely I left it off as all bolts go in a pot. Annoying thing is its booked in for tyres and tracking on Monday. worried now the alloy is shot so the tyres might be a waste.
Currently it is parked over where I worked on it and it will not start again. Think the full drain on the battery the other week killed it. Going to get the kids next door over with their metal detector in case its still on the gravel/grass drive way.
I was looking a Volvo earlier on autotrader and stated that car absolutely perfect no problems. Then went on to say both remote fobs don’t work and probably need new batteries.
My previous Audi has just gone on autotader with a full audi service history??????
Finally finished!
Rear Diff Large cog was missing three teeth. Drivers side rear hub had a seized bolt, yes the one that is almost impossible to get to. Had to file off the head of the bolt. Fitted Chris's Diff on the front, so had my old one here. Fitted that on the rear to get me on the road again.
Took for a drive and seems to be all good bit noisy over 55mph but then I have been driving a brand new car for three weeks. Tracking has worn out the front tyres so need to replace them as well as the rear diff. Might replace all 4 tyres and get laser tracking and alignment.
So...
2 Bump Stops
1 4pin Rear Diff
4 Tyres
Tracking and Alignment.
Ouch!
Good point had forgotten about the windows sync thing. Even though I did it a little over 1 hour ago!
Its almost tempting to put a battery isolator in there, Whenever I am away or leaving at an Airport I could pop the bonnet and flick a switch.
OK, Bonnet wasn't properly shut that was probably the cause of the flat battery in the first place as the car would not have gone into a deep sleep.
Thanks all,
Back to fixing it again.
Thanks Chris just phoned me and told me to have a cup of tea and try again.
My Saga continues, when repairing the car the battery went flat. Charged it overnight last night and put it back on the car and now the alarm beeps every time I open the car. It will not let me put the EKA code in, This is the only way I can start the car as the key remote doesn't work and I only have 1 key.
Any ideas?
I am guessing I will need a Nanocom to set to it to Passive Immobilisation.
blueplasticsoulman wrote:
Make sure you have some Weetabix before you lift it! lol
Thats ok the Caravan has a whopping 250aH Leisure Battery in it. Takes two people to fit it. Means we can go off grid for two weeks without charge.
Thanks again guys, The flat one is now up to 13.1v and on trickle charge overnight. This would have been a real problem if it had happened when I was out, as I have to do the EKA Key every time to start it. I haven't had a chance to disable the Passive Immobilisation, but do carry a jump start kit just incase, but this time the car was very flat.
Will get the Hankook Battery next week I think.
Thanks guys,
Battery on removal was reading 4v!!! Fortunately seems to be taking charge and on last check was about 12v.
Will leave it on overnight and make do with this one until the car is running properly again.